Lombardy
Lombardy (Lombardia) is one of the richest regions of Italy, due to the fertile Po valley and the industrial/financial might of Milan.
See the Milan page for more...
The Lake Country
Even before Lake Como, Maggiore, Iseo, Garda, and Orta became famous as a refuge for Hollywood stars, people from around the world flocked to this idyllic country to enjoy lakeside dolce vita. Lake Como specifically was the backdrop for films such as Star Wars Episode II (the lake where Anakin and Padme fall in love), Ocean's Twelve, Casino Royale, and Quantum of Solace. Also see this article about hiking along the lakes.
Lago di Garda (Lake Garda)
The largest lake in Italy, the tip is in Trentino, and the rest of the lake/shoreline is split between Lombardy and Veneto. The north end is more mountainous than the south, but there are mountain views throughout. Known for being family-friendly. This site has some nice maps giving an overview of the lake.
chowhound thread: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/715181
Riva del Garda - between mountains at the northernmost point of the lake, popular summer resort for Austrians and Germans
La Contrada - Slow Food
Arco - perched above Riva del Garda, home to a medieval castle
Alla Lega - trattoria rec'd by Alice for rustic traditional food, open only for dinner except weekends (also closed on Wed apart from summer)
Belvedere - Località Varignano, Via Sarafini 2, 046-451-6144, www.trattoriabelvedere.it, closed Wed, TCI and Alice rec'd for a "blast to the past", old 19th-C farmhouse, old-school traditional plates such as carne salada, including ingredients from the farm, ~20-25 euro.
Da Gianni - only open for dinner, also a hotel, rec'd by Alice
Agritur Madonna delle Vittorie - via Linfano 81, 046-450-5542, www.madonnadellevittorie.it agriturismo that is very popular on Tripadvisor, produces wine/olive oil...trattoria opened in 2013, looks beautiful. Blog post: http://amepiacemangiare.wordpress.com/2013/06/09/agritur-madonna-delle-vittorie-arco-tn/
Osteria Le Servite - www.leservite.com rec'd by a chowhound, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014
[a bit north, in Comano Terme] Osteria della Locanda Fiore - Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014
Brentonico - NE of lake
Maso Palù is rec'd by chowhounds and Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 www.masopalu.com
Malcesine - on Veneto (eastern) shore, very nice town at foot of Mount Baldo (a cableway takes you to the top!), which also features a medieval castle. This blogger has some great photos and stories about Malcesine.
Limone - on Lombardian (western) shore, relatively small town crammed between the cliffs and lake
Gardone Riviera & Salò - at far southwest corner of lake
Osteria Dell'Orologio - rec'd by chowhound, www.osteriadellorologiosalo.com
Locanda agli Angeli - rec'd by chowhound, Slow Food
Osteria di Mezzo - rec'd by chowhound
Sirmione - beautiful town perched on a tiny peninsula at the south end of the lake, features Scaliger Castle
La Rucola - rec'd by a chowhound, one Michelin star
Taverna Kus - rec'd by a chowhound
##Ristorante Pace - in center of town, focuses on lake fish and traditional dishes, in summer you can eat on a jetty over the lake, www.ristorantepace.it also hotel/photos at www.pacesirmione.it, Piazza Porto Valentino 5, 030-990-5877, open every day (except closed in winter), rec'd by Michelin, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014, €35 "Lake" tasting menu (also more expensive €65 one)
Toscolano Maderno: Gelateria Ciocolat - named one of Dissapore's top gelaterie in Italy in 2017
Ca del Baldo agriturismo rec'd by Rick Steves reader www.cadelbaldo.com, in Caprino Veronese on the eastern shore
Pregasina - in the tiny Trentino portion of the lake near the northern end, park near Chiesa parrocchiale di San Giorgio to access trail 422, more info here
Lago di Como
While Lake Como caters to the rich and famous, us ordinary folks can also have fun here. Rick Steve's favorite spot is Varenna, on the East shore.
Tremezzo/Tremezzina - known for its villas including the Botanical Garden of Villa Carlotta and ## Villa del Balbianello (where both 2006's Casino Royale and Star Wars Attack of the Clones were filmed)...down the coast at Argegno you can take the "funvia" up to the town of Pigra (aka "Pigra Cable Car"), with beautiful views of the lake. You can also walk from Griante to Colonno (almost to Argegno) on the 10 km "Greenway del Lago di Como" (more information on this PDF), with lake views almost the entire way. From Tremezzo you can walk about 40 minutes up to San Martino....more walks at this site
? Cantina Follie - enoteca (wine bar) with light plates like cheese, cured meats, and sandwiches...very popular on Google and TripAdvisor
? Locanda La Tirlindana - in Sala Comacina, just SW of Tremezzo, great reviews on Google and TripAdvisor, nice view/location, modern cuisine, this page says it's one of the top 10 restaurants on the lake, has a private jetty (so you can arrive by boat)
? Taverna Bleu - also in Sala Comacina, blue dining room with garden overlooking the lake, rec'd Michelin
? Antica Trattoria del Risorgimento - in Azzano/Mezzegra, good reviews on Google and TripAdvisor, this page says it's one of the top 10 restaurants on the lake, rec'd Lonely Planet and Frommers (they recommend reservations since it's small), rustic decor but fancier cooking by chef from Milan
La Terraza - fancy/expensive restaurant in the Grand Hotel Tremezzo with romantic terrace overlooking the lake, has a la carte and tasting menus, rec'd by Michelin
(La Darsena - hotel and restaurant on the water, rec'd Michelin (they say to reserve in advance), popular on TripAdvisor...Mark didn't like on his honeymoon)
La Fagurida - in hills above Tremezzo, Frommer's calls it a "meat-lover's paradise"
La Cucina della Marianna - in Cadenabbia di Griante, just NE, hotel/restaurant, has a different, traditional menu each day of the week, good reviews on Google/TripAdvisor, rec'd Rough Guide for stewed rabbit and fresh fish (and they say the best room is #10 with a lake view from the balcony)
Al Veluu - haute cuisine place in Rogaro rec'd Rough Guide
La Fagurida - restaurant in Rogaro rec'd Rough Guide for "an authentic meal in a laidback setting"
Albergo Lenno - Rough Guide rec's this family-run four star hotel in Lenno
...you can take a boat ride to the nearby Comacina island and eat at Locanda dell’Isola Comacina, rec'd Lonely Planet and Fodors...it's a somewhat expensive set menu but apparently good food (see chowhound description)
Gelaterie
? La Fabbrica Del Gelato - in Lenno (part of Tremezzina), looks like the best in the area
Bar Gelateria Helvetia - on the water, somewhat popular on Google & TripAdvisor...more of a cafe/bar than a gelateria?
Gelato di Zoe - Argegno, popular on Google/TripAdvisor
Al Veluu Ristorante Suites - up the hill with beautiful view
Bar Victoria - Irish pub / English tea house if you want to get away from Italian stuff
Argegno: La Griglia - trattoria rec'd Michelin
near Argegno in Brienno: Crotto dei Platani - rec'd Gambero Rosso
Bellagio - one of the "pearls" of the lake, it has beautiful lanes and high-end shopping. Some recommend the Giardini di Villa Melzi
## Ittiturismo Mella - 2018 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, very popular on TripAdvisor
? Alle Darsene di Loppia - overlooks the harbor, rec'd NY Times, Michelin and Rough Guide for fish and meat
Mistral - fancy/expensive, 1 Michelin star
Ittiturismo da Abate - fish place popular on Google, rec'd Lonely Planet, a little ways outside Bellagio
Gusto Italiano Bellagio - cooking class, popular on TripAdvisor
Gelateria del Borgo - TripAdvisor says it's the best in Bellagio
#Bstyle Bellagio - cafe/jazz bar and restaurant, *very* popular on both Google & TripAdvisor, looks trendy/hip, gluten-free options
Ristorante Bilacus - trattoria rec'd by this guide
Barchetta - rec'd Rough Guide
Bilacus - rec'd Rough Guide
Cava Turacciolo - rec'd Rough Guide
Du Lac - rec'd Rough Guide
La Punta - rec'd Rough Guide
Mella - rec'd Rough Guide
Mistral - rec'd Rough Guide
San Giacomo - rec'd Rough Guide
Silvio - - rec'd Rough Guide, also rec'd as hotel
Accomodation: Rough Guide likes Hotel Bellagio, Belvedere, Florence
in Lezzeno, a little ways SW:
Ristorante Aurora Lezzeno - this page says it's one of the top 10 restaurants on the lake
Il Crotto dei Pescatori - rec'd Gambero Rosso, also rents rooms
Crotto del Misto - rec'd Gambero Rosso, also a hotel, beautiful spot
Ittiturismo da Abate - rec'd Lonely Planet for slow food, popular on TripAdvisor & Google Maps, looks like a slightly fancy version of homey trattoria, might not be very celiac-friendly...?
Como - largest town, close to the Swiss border, at the SW corner of the lake; the historic walled center is the "Città Murata"; check out the Villa Olmo (on Sundays there's a walk open from Como called the "Chilometro di Conoscenza"), or ride the funicular up to Brunate (rec'd by NY Times)
Ristorante Feel - rec'd Scatti di Gusto
# The Market Place - modern/innovative place rec'd NY Times, Michelin and Scatti di Gusto for its relatively inexpensive tasting menus for €40 and €60
Gelato
# Gelateria Rossetti - won a prize for best gelato in Lombardia in 2018, organic ingredients
Gelateria Guidi - popular on TripAdvisor
Gelateria Vanilla Bio - organic and vegan gelateria in Como, across the street from Guidi?
Grom - it's a chain but it's not bad
Osteria L'Angolo del Silenzio - relatively inexpensive place rec'd Michelin
Er Più - relatively inexpensive place, 40 years old, rec'd Michelin
Tigella Bella di Garavaglia Matteocomo - sandwich shop very popular on TripAdvisor
Crotto Valdurino - a little ways north, rec'd Gambero Rosso
I Tigli in Theoria - one Michelin star, also an art gallery, rec'd NY Times and Rough Guide
La Colombetta - rec'd Michelin and Rough Guide, expensive
Navedano - rec'd Michelin, expensive
Namaste - Indian restaurant rec'd Michelin
La Polenteria - in Brunate, rec'd Frommer's
Amy's Cucina - cooking class, popular on TripAdvisor
Babi Como - rec'd Rough Guide for high-quality ingredients & good prices
Figli dei Fiori - flower shop & restaurant rec'd Rough Guide
Napule - Rough Guide rec's for Neapolitan pizzas
Osteria del Pain - Rough Guide rec's for generous portions and risotto col persico
Pasticceria Siciliana Vittoria - Sicilian bakery rec'd Rough Guide
Visini - tavola calda/enoteca/deli rec'd Rough Guide
Firenze - hotel rec'd by Rough Guide as "pleasant mid-range option"
Palazzo Albricci Peregrini - hotel rec'd Rough Guide for beautiful garden and breakfast
Posta - hotel rec'd Rough Guide
Villa Flori - north of the city, 19th century house converted to hotel, rec'd Rough Guide
north of Como in SW portion of lake:
Cernobbio has Villa Erba and Villa d'Este...Rough Guide also rec's La Via dei Monte Lariani that goes up the mountains
Berton al Lago - in Torno, one Michelin star
L'Orangerie - in Blevio, rec'd Michelin, expensive
Momi - in Blevio, rec'd Michelin, a bit less expensive, simple place with jetty over the water, closed Mon
Imperialino - in Moltrasio, rec'd Michelin
La Veranda - in Moltrasio at the Hotel Posta, rec'd Michelin
Trattoria del Glicine - in Cernobbio (the Rough Guide's favorite town near Como), rec'd Michelin, popular on Google
Materia - in Cernobbio, rec'd Michelin and Rough Guide, fresh herbs/flowers from their greenhouse
La Veranda - in Cernobbio at the Villa d'Este (which Vogue described as the "grandest hotel in Italy"), very expensive, rec'd Michelin...also has a less-formal restaurant called Grill,
Trattoria del Vapore - in Cernobbio, a bit less expensive, rec'd Michelin
# Il Pistacchietto - Gelateria Artigianale - in Cernobbio, fresh ingredients, interesting flavors like ginger
Orso Bruno - hotel in Carate Urio rec'd Rough Guide
Ristorante Acqua Dolce - restaurant in Carate Urio rec'd Rough Guide as "lovely, refined little hideaway"
Relais Villa Vittoria - fancy hotel/restaurant in Laglio rec'd Rough Guide
Eastern Bank:
## Da Gigi - in Crandola Valsassina (inland a bit), rec'd Michelin for panoramic views and organic ingredients, many from their own garden
Varenna - Rick Steve's favorite town; has Villa Monastero with a beautiful panoramic garden (also rec'd NY Times)...you can also hike up to the Castello di Vezio
Il Molo - rec'd Frommer's and Rough Guide, mostly for atmosphere
## Il Cavatappi - restaurant rec'd by Mark (liked on honeymoon) and Rough Guide, *really* good reviews on Google & TripAdvisor, 2016 blog with photos of menu
?La Passerella Gelateria - popular on Google/TripAdvisor, rec'd by this guide for vegan options including "black chocolate" with ginger
Albergo del Sole - rec'd Rough Guide
La Vista - rec'd Rough Guide
Quattro Pass - rec'd Rough Guide
Vecchia Varenna - rec'd Rough Guide
Accomodation:
Rough Guide rec's Albergo del Sole, Albergo Milano, Casa Stacy, Du Lac, Olivedo, Royal Victoria, and Villa Cipressi
...also check out the Passeggiata degli Innamorati; for a longer hike, check out the Sentiero del Viandante that leads up to Bellano and beyond
up the hill in Perledo:
?Crotto del Pepott - rec'd Gambero Rosso, rustic spot with reasonable prices for polenta, cheese, and grilled meats, Italian blog with photos
Ristorante Il Caminetto - popular on Google Maps & TripAdvisor
also runs Ristorante Il Caminetto Cookery Lessons - the most popular cooking class on TripAdvisor, old Rick Steves thread
***Dervio: Crotto del Cech - rec'd Gambero Rosso, homey/rustic "crotto" (old-school trattoria situated on a natural grotto) --> some friends went here in 2018 and said it was their favorite place; mostly locals/Italians, not much English spoken
Northern Section (Alto Lario?)
in Gravedona:
? Ca dè Matt - rustic trattoria rec'd Michelin & Rough Guide, not as expensive as many other places on the lake
Villa Vincia - hotel rec'd Rough Guide, all suites have kitchenettes, also a playground for kids, swimming pool/hot tub
? Gelateria La Carapina - great reviews on Google and TripAdvisor
?? Aquila d'Oro, in Dosso Del Liro (inland/NW from Gravedona), rec'd 2018 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, a rustic bar/restaurant overlooking the lake, they make their own cured meats, closed Tues
? in Sorico: Beccaccino - bright, airy restaurant with natural feel and fish specialties, rec'd Michelin
## in Domaso: Azienda Agricola Sorsasso Lago di Como (Agriturismo Crotto Sorsasso) - book ahead for wine tastings, lunches, or dinners, this page says it's one of the top 10 restaurants on the lake, very popular on TripAdvisor, this page says a 5 course dinner was €35 in 2016
in the hills above Dongo (in Stazzona): (il) Crottone - rec'd Gambero Rosso, also a very reasonably-priced B&B
this guidebook recommends staying in Menaggio, and the Trattoria La Vecchia Magnolia and Ristorante La Baita.
Rezzonico (San Siro): Lauro is hotel/restaurant rec'd Rough Guide
Dongo: La Trave - Rough Guide rec's "friendly local restaurant" that makes its own salumi
[Abbazia di Piona]
Menaggio has a bit more of an "outdoorsy" reputation, with tourists interseted in sports like kayaking, hiking, and cycling; there are a number of walking/hiking paths including easy ones to Nobiallo/Loverno, and a more difficult one starting at Grandola ed Uniti (take bus C12) to the Via dei Monti Lariani trail, and if you're into longer-distance trekking, the Sentiero delle Quattro Valli
Grand Hotel Menaggio - hotel rec'd Rough Guide
Royal - hotel rec'd Rough Guide
Ostello La Primula - Rough Guide says it's a "friendly hostel" with "lovely views of the lake"
Camping Europa - campsite rec'd Rough Guide
Crotto da Gusto - rec'd Rough Guide
Il Ristorante di Paolo - rec'd Rough Guide
Il Vapore - rec'd Rough Guide
Osteria Il Pozzo - rec'd Rough Guide
Pizzeria Lugano - rec'd Rough Guide
Trattoria La Vecchia Magnola - rec'd Rough Guide
Southeast section:
Lecco (SE shore): one of the larger towns on the lake
Antica Osteria Casa di Lucia, 2018 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Nicolin - rec'd Michelin
Al Porticciolo 84 - one Michelin star
L'Altro Griso (actually in Malgrate) - rec'd Michelin
Villa Giulia-Al Terrazzo (actually in Valmadrera), rec'd Michelin for romantic garden by the lake
Mandello del Lario (SE shore): Sali e Tabacchi, , 2018 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Agriturismo La Selvaggia - this page says it's one of the top 10 restaurants on the lake
Were rec'd but not sure anymore:
Proserpio (inland/S of the lake, near Erba): Inarca
Sorico (N shore): Beccaccino
Domaso (NW shore, near Gravedona): Ruffino
Bellagio: Silvio (2014 Osterie d'Italia but not anymore in 2018)
Como: rec'd by Time Out are Le Colonne, Osteria del Gallo, ristorante Sociale, Castiglioni, La Colombetta, L'Angolo Divino,
West Shore: rec'd by Time Out are Cernobbio's Albergo Centrale, Trattoria del Glicine, Tirlindana, Osteria del Giuanin [classic local cuisine], Tremezzo's lakeside La Darsena, Osteria Il Pozzo, Pizzeria Lugano, Ristorante Red Bay
Lago d'Iseo
This relatively untouristed lake boasts Europe's largest inland island, Monte Isola (you can hike to the top).
In Iseo, Time Out rec's Il Volto and Al Porto.
Near Sale Marisino, Villa Kinzica/Ristorante Uliveto also rec'd by Time Out
Lago Maggiore
As its name implies, the largest of the lakes, which extends up to Switzerland. Classy and majestic.
Stresa is Rick Steve's favorite town (on the Piedmont shore)...from there, you can take a boat to Isola Bella, with a Borremeo palace
Piedmont shore:
Time Out recommends Osteria del Triass, Cafe de la Sera, Taverna del Pappagallo, Milano, Bolongaro, La bottiglieria, Osteria del Castello, Ristorante Vecchio Olmo, and Lo Scalo
Lombardy shore:
Lago di Varese
One of the smaller lakes, between Maggiore and Como. Features the "Little Versailles" of Palazzo Estense (along with other palazzi), the Sacro Monte di Varese (one of several "sacred mountains" that form a UNESCO World Heritage site in Northern Italy).
Besozzo (town between Maggiore & Varese lakes, in Varese province): Osteria del Sass - Dissapore rec'd in 2009
Brinzio (in the Campo dei Fiori park, N of Varese town): I Runchitt - rec'd Dissapore in 2016
Cantello (near Varese town): L'Osteria di Nerito Valter (now called Osteria Galli??), rec'd 2018 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Azzate (near Buguggiate, S of Capolago on southern end of lake)
Blend 4 rec'd Scatti di Gusto in 2016
Osteria da Bruno rec'd Scatti di Gusto in 2017
Varese town
Veratti Casual Gourmet - pizzeria rec'd Scatti di Gusto
Gambero Rosso has a 2015 "mini-guide" in Italian
Lago d'Orta
Another smaller lake, west of Maggiore. Probably one of the least touristy (The Guardian called it "the Italian lake tourists haven't discovered")
Il Cucchiao di Legno (in Orta San Giulio) - rec'd 2018 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Bergamo
Hilltop town with a bunch of cool museums and palaces, about 1 hour NE by car or train from Milan. The area around Bergamo is known for creamy Taleggio cheese. There's also a local specialty, "polenta e osèi" which means "polenta with little birds" but the more common dessert version is actually a sponge cake with marzipan and chocolate "birds".
Al Donizetti - Slow Food establishment, serves up salumeria, lardo, etc, rec'd by Time Out
Antica Trattoria la Colombina - rec'd by Time Out
Trattoria del Teatro - Slow Food, rec'd by Time Out
Monza
Lombardy's third-largest city, just north of Milan, home to the Formula One race and palaces. Duomo is cool, too.
Brescia
Relatively large town not far from Milan
Mantua (Mantova)
City surrounded by artificial lakes with a nice Medieval/Renaissance core that is an UNESCO World Heritage site. ~2 hours by car or train from Milan; Modena (in Emilia Romagna) and Verona (in Veneto) are actually closer, at ~1 hour by car or train. It's especially known for its pumpkin cuisine, especially tortelli di zucca.
Italy Magazine intro to Mantua's cuisine
The Guardian's article about Mantua being "Italy's sleeping beauty city"
Sacri Monti of Piedmont and Lombardy
Together these form an UNESCO World Heritage Site, these nine "holy mountains" are spread across Lombardy and Piedmont, each with a chapel