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Restaurants in Rome

The following are restaurants (and some other food places like gelaterie) in Rome recommended by various guidebooks, etc., organized by neighborhood, ** are especially recommended:

Centro Storico

Campo de'Fiori / Ghetto

  • ***Trattoria Settimio al Pellegrino - via del Pellegrino 117, W of Campo de'Fiori, 066-880-1978, 1:30-3, 8:30-11, closed Wed, Roman trattoria with long tradition, ~€35, rec'd by Gambero Rosso Terroir ("few places are more authentically Roman"), and Katie Parla, who says it's got an "old school vibe" and praises the Montblanc, also rec'd by Elizabeth Minchilli; every thing is "casalinga" (homestyle) and they make gnocchi on Thursday, fish on Friday.  (This place is so traditional that even "recent" Roman dishes like cacio e pepe and carbonara are shunned...truly a trip, and the couple who run the place are wonderful.)
  • ***Il Forno Roscioli - Via dei Giubbonari 21 (SE of Campo), 06 687 5287, closed Sun, a deli/salami shop that doubles as a restaurant, Katie Parla rec's the pizza bianca, burrata (given to you in a huge plate), salumi/mortadella, pata negra, gnocchi, carbonara (the bacon in the carbonara is worth going for alone) and amatriciana although she warns against ordering other things; also rec'd by Time Out, Gambero Rosso, Terroir, and Espresso, ~€35-45.
    • ***Roscioli Caffè Pasticceria, nearby on Piazza Benedetto Cairoli 16 has wonderful coffee, great pastries, and some casual pasta dishes (we didn't try the pasta but I think it's the same/similar to that you can get at the main restaurant)
  • ***Pasta Chef - Via dei Funari 21, near Fontana delle Tartarughe; great spot for takeout or on-the-go, see the Pasta Chef Monti review below for more info
  • Emma Pizzeria - Via del Monte della Farina 28, pizzeria rec'd by Puntarella Rossa and Scatti di Gusto
  • Ar Galletto - Piazza Farnese 102, just south of Campo de'Fiori, inexpensive good food, ~€35, 06-686-1714 12.15-3, 7.15-11, closed Sun, 10 days Aug, rec'd by Time OutLonely Planet.
  • Ditirambo - Piazza della Cancelleria 74, near Campo de'Fiori, 06-687-1626, 1-3, 7:30-11:30, closed Mon lunch, 3 wks Aug, rec'd by Time OutFrommer's (who calls it Rome's "best trattoria"), Gambero Rosso, TCI, we went there in 2010, it wasn't bad
  • Grappolo d'Oro - Piazza della Cancelleria 80, 066-897-080, closed Wed lunch, Tues, Roman traditional dishes, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia, Corriere
  • Le Piramidi - Vicolo del Gallo 11, near Campo de'Fiori, middle eastern takeaway, 06-687-9061, 10 AM - 12:30 AM, closed Mon, Aug, rec'd by Time Out.
  • Bruschetteria degli Angeli - Piazza B Cairoli 2, SE of Campo de'Fiori, bruschetta, pasta, steaks, 06-688-05-789, 12:30-3:30, 7:30-1:30, rec'd by Time Out, Lonely Planet.
  • Il Forno Campo de'Fiori - Vicolo del Gallo 14, best takeout pizza and breads in Campo de'Fiori, 06-688-06-662, 7:30-2:30, 5-8, closed Sun, rec'd by Time Out.
  • L'Insalata Ricca, Largo dei Chiavari, near Campo de'Fiori, awesome salad place, also at piazza Pasquino 72, 06-688-036-56, 12-4, 6-mid M-F, 12-mid Sat/Sun, rec'd by Time Out.
  • Piperno, Via Monte de' Cenci 9, near Campo de'Fiori, famous "Jewish Ghetto" restaurant, a bit expensive, 06-688-06-629, 1-2:30, 8-10:30, closed Mon, Sun eve, Aug, rec'd by Alice, Fodor's and Frommer's; Katie Parla rec's the fritti.
  • Ba'Ghetto - Via del Portico d'Ottavia 57, rec'd by Puntarella Rossa
  • La Carbonara - Piazza Campo dei Fiori 23, 066-864-783, supposedly where carbonara pasta was invented, rec'd by Alice.
  • Renato e Luisa Quelli della Taverna - via dei Barbieri 25, between Campo de'Fiori and Largo Argentina, 066-869-660, closed Mon, only dinner, classics, ~€35-40, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, and Mangiarozzo.

  • Filetti di Baccala - Largo dei Librari 88, rec'd by Anthony Bourdain
  • Alice Pizzeria - big chain but Scatti di Gusto says they're good for pizza by the slice; they have 3 locations in this area alone (Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 35, Largo dei Librari 82, and Via del Portico d'Ottavia 7)
  • Supplizio - rec'd Eater
  • On Isola Tiburina (between Ghetto & Trastevere):
    • ## Tiberino Ristorante Bar - via Ponte Quattro Capi 17-18, in 2015, this old-school bar hired chef Luca Mattana (who cooked in Michelin-starred restaurants) to create a "gastro-bistro" that makes simple but high-quality Roman classics (with a few fusion/Sardinia dishes), good TripAdvisor/Google reviews, rec'd Fodors and this blog
    • Sora Lella - on Isola Tiburina (between the Ghetto and Trastevere), old-school place rec'd by Anthony Bourdain
  • Other Food Places/Gelato
    • Antico Forno del Ghetto - Piazza Costaguti 30, 066-880-3012, closed afternoons on weekends, famous kosher breads
    • ***Carapina Gelateria - Via dei Chiavari 37, 06-689-3843, Florentine gelateria that has one branch in Rome, seasonal flavors, including odd ones (like parmigiano, beer, and vinsanto), rec'd by Katie ParlaAmanda Ruggierion Puntarella Rossa's list in 2014...very nice, near Roscioli
  • Not recommended or recommended with reservations
    • Sora Margherita, Piazza delle Cinque Scole 30, Jewish Quarter, great cheap Roman Jewish cooking--highly recommended, get reservations early!, ~€20, 06-687-4216, 12:45-2:45, 8-11:30, closed Fri lunch, Sun, Aug, Sat (Apr-Sep) and Mon (Oct-Mar), rec'd by Espresso, Time OutLonely Planet, Mangiarozzo...but there are reports that it's gone downhill...(e.g. Katie Parla says it's now just a tourist trap)
    • Nona Betta - Via del Portico d'Ottavia 16, 066-880-6263, 349 6671620, kosher restaurant rec'd by Katie Parla; also see this blog entry and The Rome Digest...we went there in 2016, it wasn't bad but not worth a return trip
    • Trattoria der Pallaro - near Campo de'Fiori, 22 euro fixed price meal of filling, simple home-style favorites, "you eat what we feed you"!, recommended by Rick Steves and Mangiarozzo, Largo del Pallaro 15, 12-3 and 7-mid, 06-6880-1488...a bit of a tourist trap but it can be fun

Pantheon / Piazza Navona (Campus Martius)

  • ***Armando al Pantheon, Salita de' Crescenzi 31, one of the cheapest and best places near the Pantheon, ~€45-50, 06-688-03-034, 12.30-3, 7.15-11 M-F, 12.30-3 Sat, closed Aug, rec'd by Time Out, Gambero Rosso, Osterie d'Italia, Fodors, Amanda Ruggieri, and TCI; Katie Parla rec's the gricia and coda alla vaccinara, more at Rome of the best places to eat in the historic center
  • ?Matricianella - Via del Leone 2/3/4, near Parliament N of Pantheon, 066-832-100, closed Sun, simple place with Roman food with some Jewish Ghetto influence, great fritto misto (mixed fried food) and amatriciana; ~€25-40, rec'd by Time Out, Gambero Rosso, Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Puntarella Rossa, and Mangiarozzo.
  • ??RetrobottegaVia della Stelletta 4 (N of Pantheon/Navona), a "food lab" (not just a "restaurant") with innovative food, see description/glowing review in this blogpost, closed Monday, open noon-midnight (so open in the afternoon—a rarity in Rome!), rec'd this site and Elizabeth Minchilli
  • Lo Zozzone, Via del Teatro Pace 32, just W of Piazza Navona, takeaway counter, specialty is white stuffed pizza, 06-688-08-575, 9-9 M-F, 9-11 S/S, closed Aug and Sun in off season, rec'd by Time Out.
  • Da Francesco - Piazza del Fico 29, W of Navona, good centro storico pizza, rec'd by Time Out
  • Enoteca Corsi - Via del Gesù 87, lunch-only restaurant 3 blocks southeast of Pantheon near Gesu church, praised by many writers including Espresso, Frommer's and Time Out, great value M-Sat 12-15...but no longer what it once was?
  • PIzzeria la Montecarlo - Vicolo Savelli 13 (SW of Piazza Navona), cracker-thin crust Roman-style pizza, rec'd Lonely Planet, Fodors, SeriousEats
  • Baffetto - known as one of the best Roman pizzerias.  Via del Governo Vecchio 114 (west of Piazza Navona), 06-686-1617.  Also Baffetto 2 at Piazza del Teatro di Pompeo (south of Piazza Navona near Campo de'Fiori), 06-682-10807.  Open every evening but Tues 6:30 PM-12:30 AM and weekend lunch 12:30-3:30.
  • Capricci Siciliani - via di Panico 83, 066-873-666, 065-543-3823, W of Piazza Navona, rec'd by Gambero Rosso.
  • Grano - Piazza Rondanini 53, between Navona and Pantheon, inventive cuisine, ~€35-40, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Fodors...but Katie Parla reports some shady service charges for English speakers.  It is thus recommended to boycott Grano until/unless they change this policy.
  • Il Desiderio Preso per la Coda - Vicolo della Palomba 23, just N of Pantheon, 066-830-7522, closed Saturday lunch and Sun, closed Aug, inventive modern food with an eye toward tradition as well, ~€35, rec'd by Gambero Rosso.
  • Alfredo e Ada - via dei Banchi Nuovi 14, W of Navona, rec'd by Mangiarozzo
  • Antica Trattoria Polese - Piazza Sforza Cesarini 40, W of Navona, rec'd by Mangiarozzo
  • Ristorante Casa Coppelle - Piazza delle Coppelle 49, 3-4 blocks N of Pantheon, 066-889-1707, 338-681-0585,, rec'd by Mangiarozzo
  • Boccondivino - Piazza Campo Marzio 6, N of Pantheon, 06 6830 8626,, rec'd by Frommers
  • Trattoria da Ugo e Maria - Via dei Prefetti 19, 066-873-752, closed Sat/Sun, small family-run place, sign just says "Trattoria", rec'd by Amanda Ruggeri and this Chowhound
  • Grano - Piazza Rondanini 53, 066-819-2096, open daily, offers innovative takes on traditional dishes (e.g. cacio e pepe as risotto), rec'd by Gambero Rosso and Espresso.
  • Mater Terrae - fancy vegan/vegetarian organic/biodynamic restaurant on gorgeous terrace of the Raphael Hotel (overlooking much of the centro storico), €110 tasting menu or a la carte (pastas €22-24, secondi €22-26, lots of gluten-free options including tiramisu), rec'd Michelin, Puntarella Rossa, Gambero Rosso, TCI 
  • (Pagliaccio - very expensive but 2 star Michelin restaurant, fusion Asian/Italian cuisine)
  • (La Rosetta - very expensive but good seafood)
  • Other Food Places (Gelato, etc.)
    • Gelateria Giolitti - a few blocks north of the Pantheon, lots of delicious flavors—they may not be the freshest, but they're fun.  Via degli Uffici del Vicario 40, 06-699-1243.  Open every day 7-2 am.
    • ?Gelateria del Teatro - super-fresh gelato with innovative flavors west of Piazza Navona; if you get there early enough you can watch them make it. Via de San Simone 70 (off Via dei Coronari), was great in ~2008-2010 but may have gotten less so lately (~2015), was on Puntarella Rossa's list in 2014
    • Enoteca: Cul De Sac - Piazza di Pasquino 73, just SW of Piazza Navona, 066-880-1094, open every day (and late?), nice enoteca for wine but also lots of other small plates (including Greek, Lebanese, and Turkish food), long  rec'd by Gambero Rosso and TCI.
    • Enoteca: Il Goccetto - Via dei Banchi Vecchi 14, W of Navona/Campo de' Fiori, 066-864-268, M-Sat 6-mid, also open T-Sat 11:30-4, (closed Mon lunch/Sun), vibrant enoteca, can eat for ~€10-20, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, TCI, and Katie Parla who calls it a "cult favorite among oenophiles"
    • ***Gunther Rohregger Gelato @ Punto Gelato - Piazza Sant'Eustachio 47 (around the corner from the Pantheon), rec'd Gillian's Lists, An American in Rome...also another Punto Gelato between Campo de' Fiori and Ponte Sisto, and the same gelato at The Taste Gelato near the Spanish Steps.
    • ?Two Sizes - tiramisu and pastry shop just SW of Piazza Navona, very popular on TripAdvisor and Google
    • ##ZUM Roma - ZUM stands for "Zucchero, Uova e Mascarpone", the main ingredients to tiramisu; they also have gluten-free tiramisu, rec'd by Punterella Rossa, DissaporeThe Roman Guy, Romeing, just SW of Piazza Navona

Trevi Fountain / Spanish Steps / Piazza del Popolo (Tridente)

  • ***VyTA Enoteca del Lazio (Palatium Enoteca Regionale) - via Frattina 94 (near via del Corso, NE of Parliament and W of Spanish Steps), 066-920-2132, closed Sun, Lazio favorites (all ingredients are local to Lazio, since it's run by the Lazio Regional Food Authority), ~€30-40, rec'd by Amanda Ruggeri, Time Out, Gambero Rosso, Osterie d'Italia, and Espresso.  --> name changed to "VyTA" in 2015, not sure if it's the same anymore
  • ?Alla Frasca - Via della Dataria 93 (just S of Trevi Fountain), sandwich/takeaway place that makes most of its stuff from organic ingredients, some people say they have good Porchetta, see this 2013 blogpost for more
  • La Campana - Vicolo della Campana 18 (S of Ara Pacis), 06 687 5273, closed Mon, rec'd by Katie Parla for its fettucini with truffles, and being one of the few restaurants open Sunday evening, also rec'd by Amanda Ruggeri although she and the New York Times discuss how it's often uneven ~€30 (this CH agrees).
  • Il Margutta, Via Margutta 118, near Piazza del Popolo (in Tridentine), vegetarian, Time Out recommends their €15 lunch buffet, 06-326-50-577, 12:30-3:30, 7:30-11:30, closed Aug.
  • 'Gusto (also nearby L'Osteria, run by same people) Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9, near Ara Pacis, trendy/fancy but good, 1-3, 7:30-mid, 06-322-6273, rec'd by Frommer's, Food and Wine, and Gambero Rosso.
  • Nanà Vini e Cucina - Via della Panetteria 37, near Trevi Fountain, 066-919-0750, closed Mon, both land and sea dishes, ~€50, rec'd by Gambero Rosso.
  • Babette - via Margutta 1, S of Piazza del Popolo, 063-211-559, open every day, seasonal specials, lunch buffet €10, weekends €25, dinner is ~€50, rec'd by Gambero Rosso and Espresso.
  • Galleria Colonna - Galleria Alberto Sordi 53, not far from Trevi, open every day from 11 to midnight, rec'd by Gambero Rosso and Espresso
  • Il Gabriello - via Vittoria 51, 066-994-0810,, closed Mon lunch, Sun, near Spanish Steps, rec'd by Mangiarozzo
  • Pastificio (unnamed) - via della Croce 8, at 1 PM on weekdays they serve homemade pasta samples, rec'd by Amanda Ruggeri and Katie Parla
  • Trattoria Al Moro - Vicolo delle Bollette 13 (near Trevi fountain), 066-783-495, "classic" but expensive restaurant, supposedly a favorite of Fellini, rec'd on Zagat, NY Times (in 2006)
  • Vic's, Vicolo della Torretta 60, NW of Trevi, another good salad place, 06-687-1445, 12:30-3, 7:30-11, closed Sun, Mon lunch, 2 wks Aug, rec'd by Time Out.
  • Other Food Places (Gelato, etc.)
    • San Crispino Gelateria - a more "snooty" place (no tastings, no cones, less flavors) but the gelato is fantastic and always fresh/seasonal.  Honey vanilla San Crispino flavor is delicious and nearly always available.  Near Trevi Fountain, via della Panetteria 42.  They have a couple other franchise outposts, including at Fiumicino Terminal A and Piazza della Maddalena 3 north of the Pantheon.  Noon-12:30 AM or 1:30 AM on Fri/Sat, closed Tues in autumn/winter.
    • Ciampini Gelato - Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina 29 (just a bit S of Claudio Torce's gelateria), 06 687 6606,, rec'd by Katie Parla and Amanda Ruggieri
    • ?Gelateria Corona - Largo Arenula 27 (Largo Argentina, south of Pantheon), 06-688-08-054, rec'd TCI (including for pistacchio), Katie Parla says it has better granita than even the best places in Palermo!  Caveat emptor: they also have some of the worst service in Rome!
    • Pasticceria e Gelateria Gracchi - via di Ripetta 261, a branch of the Prati gelateria, very close to Piazza del Popolo
  • Not recommended or with reservations:
    • (Dal Cavalier) Gino in vicolo Rosini, Vicolo Rosini 4, near Parliament building N of Pantheon, NOT recommended: while it's a cute, popular place (paintings all over the walls, a fan that's been running since the Fascist days, etc.), we found that their food was of poor quality (e.g. almost no cheese in the cacio e pepe, clearly canned mushrooms used in the carbonara), ~€30-40, 06-687-3434, 1-2.45, 8-10.45 closed Sun, Aug, rec'd by Time Out and Osterie d'Italia.

Near and North of Termini

Esquilino (SW of Termini, near Santa Maria Maggiore)

  • Hang Zhou, Via San Martino ai Monti 33C, near Santa Maria Maggiore, good, inexpensive Chinese food, 06-487-2732, 12-3, 7-mid, closed Aug, no reservations taken, rec'd by Time Out.
  • ?Trattoria Monti, Via di San Vito 13, near Santa Maria Maggiore, features food from Le Marche, popular with foreigners, tortello with egg and truffles is rec'd, ~€35, 06-446-6573, 12:45-2:45, 7:45-11, closed Sun eve, Mon, 1 wk Easter, 3 wks Aug, 1 wk Sep, rec'd by Time Out, Fodor's, Gambero Rosso, Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Michelin; Katie Parla rec's the sformatini (a bit like a flan).
  • Indian Fast Food, Via Mamiani 11, Piazza/Metro Vittorio, Rome's only Indian takeaway, 06-446-0792, 11-4, 5-10:30, lunch starts 12 on Sun, rec'd by Time Out.
  • Africa, Via Gaeta 26, just NW of Termini, Eritrean cuisine, ~€20, 06-494-1077, 9:30am-mid, closed Mon, rec'd by Time Out.
  • El Norteño - Via Castro Pretorio 26, just northeast of Termini off Via Marsala, Peruvian/Andean food, 12-11:30, 06-493-81722.
  • Krishna 13 - Via Foscolo 13, 06-700-5267, S of Termini near Vittorio Emanuele metro stop, one TripAdvisor reviewer claims it's the "best Indian food outside of London"
  • Maharajah - Via dei Serpenti 124, 064-747-144, SW of Termini near Cavour metro stop, Indian food, rec'd by Gambero Rosso
  • ?Da Danilo - Via Petrarca 13 (near Vittorio Emanuele metro), 067-720-0111, Katie Parla recommends for reasonably-priced Roman cuisine, especially carbonara (seconded by this blogger) although she warns of worsening service in late 2012, also rec'd by Elizabeth Minchilli and Amanda Ruggieri
  • (Agata e Romeo - very expensive but good modern twist on Roman food, lost its Michelin star in 2015)
  • Mia Market - Via Panisperna 225, 064-782-4611,, Lazio province cafe/food shop but also serves food, rec'd by Katie Parla
  • ##Mercato Centrale - right by/in Termini, features a wide range of food products (bread, pizza, trapizzino, pasta, gelato) from some of Rome's best food creators; for more see An American in Rome, Elizabeth Minchilli, Katie Parla, and Eater; Pier Daniele Seu's pizzas are lauded by Gambero RossoDissapore, and Luciano Pignataro
  • ?Er Buchetto - Via del Viminale 2f, rec'd Katie Parla for good porchetta, more on this blog
  • ?Radici Pizzicheria Salentina - spot serving take-away and sit-down casual bites (sandwiches, burrata, etc.) from Salento (in Puglia), great reviews on TripAdvisor and Google.
San Lorenzo/Pigneto District (NE/SE of Termini)
  • ***Tram Tram, Via dei Reti 44/46, San Lorenzo district, mix of Roman and dishes from Puglia/Sicily, ~€30-40, 06-490-416, 12:30-3:30, 7:30-11:30, closed Mon, 1 wk Aug, rec'd by Time OutFodor'sFrommer's and Osterie d'Italia.
  • Pommidoro - Piazza dei Sanniti 44, San Lorenzo district, 064-452-692, 064-452-952, closed Sun, old restaurant now popular with intellectuals & artists, "rigorously Roman", ~€45, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia and Espresso
  • Trattoria da Marcello (San Lorenzo district), Via dei Campani 12, 06-446-3311, cheap but great place, sign just says "Cucina", ~€18, 7:30-11:30 PM M-F, closed Aug, rec'd by Time Out.
  • Arancia Blu - Frommers calls it "Rome's best vegetarian cuisine"
  • ?I Porchettoni - great value place, Ariccia-style porchetta, rec'd by Katie Parla, also one in Pigneto (Via del Pigneto 68, as of 2018 called "Trattoria Pigneto" --> new management? ...they do seem to still have porchetta "Cestino di Ariccia", etc.)
  • ??Necci dal 1924 - hipster place with terrace, old-school (Pasolini used to eat here) but revitalized in 2007, everything is organic, rec'd Lonely Planet, Katie Parla, Bruno
  • Non-restaurants

Near Barberini/Villa Borghese/Via Veneto

  • ?Hostaria Romana - Via del Boccaccio 1 (near Piazza Barberini), rec'd by Amanda Ruggieri as her favorite "no-frills trattoria"
  • Caffetteria Borromini - Via XX Settembre 124, near Barberini, lunch-only fast food deals, 12-3 M-F, 06-488-0866, rec'd by Time Out.
  • Cantina Cantarini - Piazza Sallusto 12, just east of Via Veneto area, le Marche food, ~€35, 06-485-528, 06-474-3341, rec'd by Time Out.
  • Osteria del Rione - Via Basento 20, north, walking distance from Villa Borghese, €18 fixed price bargain, 12:30-2:30, 7-11, closed Sun, Sat lunch, Aug, 1 wk Dec, 06-855-1057, rec'd by Time Out.
  • ***Colline Emiliane - near Via Veneto off Piazza Barberini, wonderful Emiglia-Romagna cuisine, Frommer's says it is "about the best pasta you'll find in Rome", rec'd by Michelin and TCI (and Katie Parla says "it lives up to the hype"), T-Sun 12:45-2:45PM, T-Sat 7:45-10:45PM, Via Avignonesi 22, 06-4817538
  • Piccolo Abruzzo - Northest of Via Veneto near Villa Borghese, good Abruzzo cuisine, especially salamis, Via Sicilia 237, Alessandro 328-835-1154 or 06-42820176, 12-16, 19-1:30, open Sun  Also check out the Brancaleone osteria/pizzeria across the street, run by the same family, Via Sicilia 170, 06-4871776.
  • ***Osteria dell'Arco - excellent Roman cuisine cooked with flair, not far from Villa Borghese, excellent Time Out review, Via G. Pagliari 11, 06-8548438,, closed Sun and Sat lunch.
  • Trattoria Cadorna dal 1947 - via Raffaele Cadorna 12, 064-827-061, closed Sun lunch, Sat, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia, old, classic dishes
  • Trimani Il Wine Bar - via Cernaia 37b, 064-469-630, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin, TCI, Mangiarozzo.
  • Osteria Barberini - Via della Purificazione 21 (about a block NW of Piazza Barberini), 06 474 3325,, small family-run place that serves traditional Roman food (and apparently truffles), rec'd by Ristoranti di Roma
  • (Da Claudio) Il Localino - Via Lazio 22, 06 4202 0218, seafood, rec'd by Elizabeth Minchilli, chef used to be at La Gensola
  • Nino - Via Borgognona 11 (Tridente), 06-6786752; 06-6795676, traditional Roman and Tuscan food, rec'd here
  • Ristorante Vladimiro (formerly Marcello) - Via Aurora 37, 06 481 9467, rec'd by some CHs but not recently?
  • Non restaurants:
    • ***Gelateria I Caruso - Via Collina 13 (not far from Republica metro), 06 42918674, open 10-mid, rec'd by Gambero Rosso and Amanda Ruggieri as a great "secret" for such flavors as extra-dark chocolate (which is unbelievably creamy), pistacchio, and fragola...worth schlepping out to this neighborhood for the chocolate alone! (also another branch in Prati), on Puntarella Rossa's list in 2014
    • Gelateria Bartocci - Via Alessandria 145 (SE of Borghese), 069-969-5535, rec'd TCI
    • ?Gelateria Syberia - Via Montebello 46 (near Termini, NE of Diocletian Baths), rec'd TCI especially for pear, cinnamon, and dark chocolate
    • ***Gelateria Come il Latte - Via Silvio Spaventa 24/26, started by an ex-Caruso employee, rec'd NYT, Elizabeth Minchilli, An American in Rome, on Puntarella Rossa's list in 2014

Near Colosseum  (Monti/Celio)

  • ***L'Asino d'Oro - Via del Boschetto 73, Monti, 06 4891 3832, Umbrian-inspired food, rec'd by chowhounds, Osterie d'Italia, Slow Food Planet, TCIElizabeth Minchilli and Katie Parla; €12 fixed price lunch T-Fri is an absolute steal!  Tasty and flavorful, a great combination of tradition and creativity.
  • ??Open Colonna - rec'd by Tavole Romane, TCI, Lonely the Palazzo delle Esposizioni on via Nazionale, run by a fancy chef but with relatively reasonable prices
  • Alchemilla - Via di San Giovanni in Laterano 220, in Celio E of Colosseum on the way to San Giovanni Laterano cathedral, 067-720-3202, closed Sun, only open for dinner, 9 different menus between €20 and €40; reservations are wise, rec'd by Gambero Rosso and Espresso.
  • Da Domenico - Via di San Giovanni in Laterano 134, also in Celio, 067-759-0225, closed Sun eve, Mon, Roman specials, ~€40.
  • Mother India - Indian food on Via dei Serpenti 148 (Monti district near Cavour metro), 06-474-0777
  • Sitar - Indian food, not far from Mother India, Via Cavour 256, 06-890-26710
  • Dall’Antò - Via Madonna dei Monti 16, old school bread / chickpea breads rec'd by Katie Parla
  • Tempio di Iside - Via Pietro Verri 11, 06 700 4741, Katie Parla rec's the antipasti
  • ?Taverna dei Quaranta - Via Claudia 24, 06 7000550, Amanda Ruggieri rec's their cacio e pepe
  • La Barrique - via del Boschetto 41B, 064-782-5953, closed Sat lunch, Sun Gambero Rosso rec's the cold plates at this inexpensive enoteca
  • Ce Stamo a Pensà - Neapolitan street food, Via Leonina 81, open every day 06 6936 3154, described here and here
  • ?Marlina - rec'd The Roman Foodie (especially for an inexpensive lunch)
  • Aromaticus - rec'd TCI, Slow Food Planet
  • ?Cucina Eliseo -, restaurant in the Teatro Eliseo which opened in 2017, focused on "km0" locavore ingredients, relatively short menu,  rec'd Gambero Rosso, TCIthis blog has more (in Italian)
  • #Cuoco & Camicia - "made from scratch" changing menu, quality ingredients, rec'd TCI, Puntarella Rossa, Luciano Pignataro, Via dei Gourmetthis hotel website has more
  • #Zia Rosetta - take-away/sandwich/salad/smoothie place rec'd by TCI, Romeing, Puntarella Rossa, Lonely Planet, Elizabeth Minchilli, Via dei Gourmet...also does deliveries
  • #Boccacciello Bistrot - place where almost everything is in little jars, mostly Neapolitan flavors, take-away or eat there, slow food/km0 (locavore), rec'd TCI, Gambero Rosso, Puntarella Rossa, Luciano Pignataro, Scatti di Gusto, more on this blog
  • Groceries
    • Bio Eno Macelleria di Abbattista Raffaele - rec'd Slow Food Planet, high-quality meats, wines, and other organic goods
    • Monti Bio --> closed?
  • ?Trattoria Al Tettarello - down home place with simple pasta dishes and pizza, reasonably popular on Google/TripAdvisor, rec'd by Guardian readers, this blog has more
  • ?Grazie a Dio è Venerdì - casual eatery with pizzas & pastas, the name means TGIF
  • ?Ai Tre Scalini - enoteca that also has food, rec'd Fodors, Lonely PlanetFrommers, Elizabeth Minchilli
  • ?Il Girasole - Via del Boschetto 28, looks a bit touristy?...there's another one at Via Rosa Raimondi Garibaldi that is more popular, including with Luciano Pignataro
  • ?Le Tavernelle - reasonably popular on Google & TripAdvisor, one of those places that has photos of famous people who visited
  • ?? Pasta Imperiale
  • Trattoria Valentino - rec'd Elizabeth Minchilli for "very simple, straightforward, delicious food", closed Sun
  • Ristorante Broccoletti - rec'd Elizabeth Minchilli, organic produce
  • Enoteca Cavour 313 - rec'd Slow Food Planet
  • Al Vino Al Vino - rec'd Slow Food Planet
  • ***Pasta Chef Monti - Via Baccina 42, one of two locations. At one point this place was the #1 restaurant in Rome on TripAdvisor, and after visiting it, we know why: great Roman classic pasta dishes (including gluten free!) and yummy salads, quickly prepared at reasonable prices. They also have daily specials (we loved their lasagna). Oh, and did I mention that they're open all afternoon ("orario continuato")? Since it's counter service, it's great for a meal on the go (or for takeout). Rec'd by Elizabeth MinchilliLonely Planet.
  • rec'd Elizabeth Minchilli, Lonely Planet, cheap
  • Gelato
  • Not recommended or recommended with reservations:
    • Urbana 47 - Via Urbana 47, 064-788-4006, Lazio-only "kilometer zero" (locavore) food, also has reasonably hearty breakfasts, rec'd by Roma nell Piato, Fodor'sKatie Parla (NY Times article), Slow Food Planet, TCI and Elizabeth Minchilli. We ate here in July 2014 and thought it was good but overpriced (and with relatively few gluten-free options). When we came back in July 2016 we found that not only were there even fewer gluten-free options (~2 on the whole menu) but the service was surprisingly unprofessional, especially for Italy.
    • Il Bocconcino, via Ostilia 23, about 2 blocks E of the Colosseum, Roman classics and slow food favorites, ~€28, 06 7707 9175, 12.30-3.30, 7.30-11.30, closed W, 3wks Aug, rec'd by Time Out, Gambero Rosso, Osterie d'Italia ( of 2013, no longer in Gambero Rosso or Osterie d'Italia), but still rec'd by Lonely Planet
    • Luzzi, Via Celimontana 1, cheap, popular trattoria—BUT Monks had bad experience (mediocre/overpriced food, bad service, although good mixed salad), ~€22, 06-709-6332, 12-3, 7-mid, closed W, 2 wks Aug, rec'd by Time OutSlow Travel...Amanda Ruggieri gives it a lukewarm review, saying it's the "best of the bad" places nearby
    • Osteria da Nerone - rec'd by Rick Steves, and Frommers, although some chowhounds report uneven experiences
    • Taverna dei Fori Imperiali - Via Madonna die Monti 16; was once good but in 2011 Amanda Ruggieri says it had gone downhill...still Elizabeth Minchili recommends it (more discussion here), as do other guidebooks like Conde Nast Traveler (which admits that quality can vary from night to night) and Gillian's Lists, also see this blog. We went here in 2016 and thought it was nice but not worth a repeat visit.
    • Taverna Romana - Via della Madonna dei Monti 79, rec'd NYTGillian's ListsElizabeth Minchili; also see this blogpost...note that it changed ownership after 2010 but most reviews seem to still be positive. We went here in 2016 and thought it was decent trattoria cooking but not worth a special trip.
    • Hosteria La Vacca M'briaca - relatively nice trattoria (when we went here in 2016 it was mostly Italians and had a nice coda alla vaccinara) but not worth a special trip
    • La Cucina Nazionale - rec'd TCI for rustic, classic dishes including pizza, brightly renovated interior...but mediocre reviews online (TripAdvisor, Google, etc)?
    • Terre e Domus (formerly Enoteca Provincia Romana) - Largo del Foro Traiano 82, 066-994-0273, *was* rec'd by Slow Food Planet, Lonely PlanetKatie ParlaElizabeth Minchilli, more at Rome Digest as Terre e Domus in 2014 but as of 2017 Katie Parla no longer recommended due to bad reports from readers

Near Vatican

Borgo/San Pietro
  • ***Pizzarium, Via della Meloria 43, 063-974-5416, closed Sun, open 9-9, good pizza, near Vatican Museums, 06-397-45-416, 9-10:30, closed Sun, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Time Out and Katie Parla, who rec's the pizza rossa, fritti, and porchetta (also featured on Anthony Bourdain's "The Layover")...apparently the line is shorter before 12:30, between 4-6, or around 8:30.
  • Dal Toscano al Girarrosto - via Germanico 58, 063-972-5717, just N of San Pietro, closed Mon, Tuscan food, rec'd by Gambero Rosso.
  • Paninoteca da Guido, Borgo Pio 13, good sandwich shop frequented by Swiss Guards, 06-687-5491, 8-6, closed Sun, rec'd by Time Out.
  • Old Bridge Gelateria - Viale dei Bastioni di Michelangelo 5 just N of Vatican, closed Mon, open late (~2 am)
  • Vice Gelato - Via Gregorio VII 385, a 10-15 min bus ride W of the Vatican, but Katie Parla lauds it as the best in Rome
  • Osteria delle Commari - Via Santamaura 43, 063-972-9557, locavore place near Vatican?, rec'd by this blog and this review (in Italian), and Mondo del Gusto (in Italian)
  • Il Gelato di Claudio Torce - Piazza del Risorgimento 51, between Ottaviano metro and St Peters, 10-11 every day, ridiculous number of fresh, outstanding flavors, Katie Parla rec's [this is a small chain, with other locations in E.U.R., Circo Massimo/Aventine, and San Paolo]
  • Angrypig Birretta e Porchetta - Scatti di Gusto rec's for Cioli (Ariccia-style) porchetta
Prati (N of Vatican)
  • ?L'Arcangelo - Via Giuseppe Gioachino Belli 59, N of Castel Sant'Angelo, 063-210992, 333-762-2362, closed Sun, traditional Roman dishes but also other innovations like foie gras menu, fixed price for €55, ~€60 if off menu, rec'd by Time Out, Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin, TCI, and Katie Parla who recommends the suppli’, cacio e unto, and amatricana ...and the gnocchi (on Thursdays), more at Rome Digest
  • Osteria dell'Angelo, Via G Bettolo 32, in Prati district near Ottaviano metro, good Roman traditional dishes, lunch ~€20, fixed price dinner €25-€30, 06-372-9470, 12:30-2:30, 8-11, closed Mon/Sat lunch, Sun, 2 wks Aug, rec'd by Time Out, Osterie d'Italia, and the New York Times.
  • Panificio Bonci - Via Trionfale 36, 063-973-4457, celebrity baker (who founded Pizzarium, see above) sells bread and baked goods, plus they sometimes have great Porchetta from Vito Bernabei says Katie Parla
  • Cacio e Pepe -  Via Giuseppe Avezzana 11, supposedly has good eponymous dish, rec'd by Amanda Ruggieri
  • Romeo - Via Silla 26A, 063-211-0120, Roscioli family recently opened this with the folks who run Glass, a hit with foodies
  • Mexican: La Cucaracha. There are several Mexican restaurants in Rome. Most are overpriced for mediocre food, although La Cucaracha is fairly good.  Lots of traditional and spicy Mexican fare to choose from, as well as a nice cocktail menu. Via Mocenigo 10a, at Via Candia (Vatican Museum area, easy to integrate as a stop while sightseeing in Rome), 06-397-463-73; open every evening.
  • Gelaterie and such

Outside Central Tourist Attractions


Testaccio and Aventino

  • (**)Da Felice - renowned for having some of the best Roman food in the city, especially cacio e pepe (pasta with pecorino and pepper), they feature everyday favorites as well as a rotating menu of daily specials.  Don't miss the tiramisu, either.  In Testaccio, Via Mastro Giorgio 29, 06-574-6800, make reservations early. Recommended by Time Out, Gambero Rosso, Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Michelin (2015 Bib Gourmand), Mangiarozzo, Zagat. --> note: in 2012, we were a little bit disappointed in the cacio e pepe, and there are some grumblings online about them losing their mojo
  • Né Arte Né Parte - via Luca della Robbia 15, in Testaccio, 065-750-279, closed Mon, traditional Roman food, ~€30-35, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia.
  • ?Checchino dal 1887 - Via di Monte Testaccio 30, 065-743-816, closed Mon/Sun, cool underground, somewhat fancy Roman specials like the "quinto quarto" dishes (trippa, pajata, coratella), tasting menus between €45-65 or ~€55-60 a la carte, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin, TCI, Fodors, Time Out, and many chowhounds.
  • Piccolo Alpino, Via Orazio Antinori 5, Testaccio, no-frills pizzeria/trattoria popular with locals, ~€18, 06-574-1386, 12:30-2:30, 6-11, closed Mon, rec'd by Time Out.
  • Remo, Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice 44, Testaccio, Time Out says it has the best bruschetta and Roman-style pizza in Rome, ~€18, 06-574-6270, 7 PM - 1 AM, closed Sun, 3wks Aug, also rec'd by Fodor's.
  • Tuttifrutti, Via Luca della Robbia 3A, Time Out calls this "Testaccio's best-value dining experience," seasonal favorites from around Italy, ~€30, 06-575-7902, 8-11:30 PM, closed Sun, 3wks Aug.
  • ***Flavio al Velavevodetto - Via dei Monte Testaccio 97, 06 574 4194, the chef used to work at Da Felice, Katie Parla rec's for Roman food (good cacio e pepe, amatriciana, and other classic Roman dishes) as well as the fried lamb chops and tiramisu.  Like Checchino, it's built into Monte Testaccio so you can see the broken amphorae.  Carlo Petrini, founder of Slow Food, apparently calls this his favorite place in Rome.  BUT as of late 2012/early 2013, there are warning signs: Katie Parla says she's heard of quality suffering, and this blog agrees...but as of December 2014 she says it's "...more than just rebounded. It has surpassed its earlier reputation...", also rec'd by Amanda Ruggieri ...we went there in 2016 and really enjoyed it
  • ?Agustarello - Via Giovanni Branca 100, 065-746-585, closed Mon, Katie Parla rec's their gricia (and cacio e pepe); also known for its offal dishes, more at The Rome Digest, also rec'd by New York Times as a "great meal for the budget-conscious traveller"
  • ?00100 - Via Giovanni Branca 88, known for the trapazzino (pizza bianca with tomato+offal/meat sauce), rec'd by Katie Parla who says get there when it opens at 1230 for no line, also Osterie d'Italia
  • Mordi e Vai - Via B. Franklin 12, Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio, Box No. 15, also known for trapazzino
  • Da Bucatino - Via Luca della Robbia 84, 065-746-886, 338-509-9110, rec'd by Alessio, famous for saucy amatriciana says Amanda Ruggieri
  • Pizzeria Da RemoPiazza Santa Maria Liberatrice 44, 065-746-270, rec'd by Katie Parla
  • Pecorinovia Galvani 64, 06-57250539, rec'd by Puntarella Rosa (Italian)
  • Volpetti - butcher/sandwich/alimentari place rec'd by Anthony Bourdain
  • Court Delicati, Viale Aventino 39, Circo Massimo metro, Chinese with some Thai and Indonesian dishes, ~€22, 06-574-6108, 12-3, 7:30-11, closed Mon, Aug, rec'd by Time Out.
  • Il Gelato di Claudio Torce ("Il Gelato Fantasia") - viale Aventino 59, Circo Massimo metro, 11-10 every day, see above for more
  • Trapizzino - rec'd Scatti di Gusto
  • Romeo Chef&Baker - rec'd Scatti di Gusto

Farther South

(Also see Appian Way page for restaurants near there, including Osteria del Velodromo Vecchio)
  • Al Ristoro degli Angeli, Via Luigi Orlando 2, near Garbatella metro stop in Ostiense, good, inventive, ~€35, 06-514-36-020, 8-11.30 PM, closed Sun, Aug, and 1wk Sept, rec'd by Time Out, Espresso, TCI, 2015 Michelin Bib Gourmand, Anthony Bourdain
  • Zampagna, Via Ostiense 179, near San Paolo metro/church, lunch only place famed for great Roman food/meat, ~€20, 12:30-2:30, closed Sun, Aug, 06-574-2306, rec'd by Time Out, Lonely Planet, Mangiarozzo.
    • also near San Paolo metro/church is an outpost of Il Gelato di Claudio Torce Viale Guglielmo Marconi 445, 10-11 every day, see above for more
  • Da Vittorio - Via Mario Musco 29, E of Marconi metro, 065-408-272, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia
  • Dar Moschino - Piazza Benedetto Brin 5, S of Garbatella metro, 065-139-473, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia, classic Roman dishes, Roma Nel Piatto
  • Le Tre Zucche - Via Guglielmo Mengarini 43 in Portuense neighborhood, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, TCI
  • Taberna Recina - Via Elvia Recina 22, W of Re di Roma metro, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Osterie d'Italia, menu changes daily, Wed/Fri based on fish
  • Domenico dal 1968 - via Satrico 23, NW of Re di Roma or SE of Caracalla Baths, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin (2015 Bib Gourmand), Mangiarozzo
  • Ar Grottino Der Traslocatore - Largo delle Sette Chiese 2, Garbatella, 065-141-261, rec'd by Alessio for pajata, casareccia/cuciana romana
  • Tanto Pè Magnà - Via Giustino de Jacobis 9, Garbatella, 065-160-7422, rec'd by Katie Parla for "satisfying Roman soul food", Roma nel Piatto, supposedly good cacio e pepe?
  • Osteria Giuda BallerinoLargo Appio Claudio 346 (near Via Tuscolana / Giulio Agricola metro), 067-158-4807
  • Roberto e Loretta (dal 1970) - Via Saturnia 18 (not far from Re di Roma metro), 067-729-1037, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia --> we went there, it has a number of southern-inspired dishes, overall good food but not worth a detour
  • ?SfornoVia Statilio Ottato 110 (near Subaugusta metro, N of Cinecittà), 06 71546118, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia for pizza, e.g. they have a cacio e pepe pizza!
  • ?Osteria Bonelli Viale dell’Acquedotto Alessandrino 172, in Tor Pignattara (near Parco degli Acquadotti), rec'd Katie Parla, Elizabeth Minchilli, Luciano Pignataro (who says "you can't find a better quality/price ratio"), this site
  • Pro Loco DOL - in Centocelle, rec'd by Katie Parla for having the best local products
  • Profumo di Mirto - Sardegna specialties, Michelin 2015 Bib Gourmand
  • Gelato
    • Il Gelato di Claudio Torce - Viale dell'Aeronautica 105, Laurentina metro near EUR, 11-9 every day, see above for more (also another location at viale Europa 134/136 in the heart of EUR)
    • Pasticceria Gelateria Croquembouche - Via dell'Arte 42/44 (EUR Fermi), rec'd TCI (esp. for cream & chocolate gelato, millefoglie, and Sachertorte), gluten-free bakery, also has sugar-less and vegan desserts, 066-465-1062,, 9 AM - 10 PM every day
    • Gelateria Petrini - Piazza dell'Alberone 16a (between Ponte Lungo and Furio Camillo metros), rec'd TCI, Puntarella Rossa
    • Gelateria Splash - Via Euralio 104 (between Furio Camillo and Coli Albani metros), rec'd TCI
    • Gelatario - Via Tuscolana 325 (near Furio Camillo not far from Parco della Caffarella), on Puntarella Rossa's list in 2014
    • Premiata Gelateria Tedesco & Hauser - near Colli Albani metro in Tuscolana, Gambero Rosso in 2017
  • [Castelli Romani - way out there]: Tigellino, in Genzano di Roma, rec'd on The Rome Digest ...nearby is Pellicione
  • [also Castelli Romani]: Il Belvedere dal 1933, in Frascati, rec'd on The Rome Digest

Farther North

  • ?Il Quinto Quarto - Via della Farnesina 13, NE of Stadio Olimpico, 063-338-768, closed Sun, dinner only, "a temple to people's food", supposedly one of the best carbonaras in Rome, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia, Gambero Rosso, Mangiarozzo
  • Lo'steria -  Via Prati della Farnesina 61 (near Ponte Milvio, at end of #2 Tram), 06 33218749, closed Mon in winter / Sunday in summer, rec'd by Corriere della Serra, Osterie d'Italia, Roman specialties and fresh ingredients on short, reasonably-priced menu (YouTube video in Italian)
  • L'Ortica - Via Flaminia Vecchia 573, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin, TCI
  • Osteria Benaco - was in Osterie d'Italia but no longer in guidebook as of 2014, Roman classics
  • ?Tonda - pizza, supplì, cacio e pepe, trapizzini, same owner as Sforno, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia (2014), they have carbonara pizza
  • Gori Gelato - Piazza Menenio Agrippa 8, waaay North-east, rec'd by Puntarella Rossa's list in 2014Gambero Rosso in 2017
  • Ambasciata D'AbruzzoVia Pietro Tacchini 26, 2015 Michelin Bib Gourmand
  • Mamma AngelinaViale Arrigo Boito 65, 2015 Michelin Bib Gourmand, also rec'd by Luciano Pignataro
  • Gelateria Bar Cile - Piazza Santiago del Cile 1 (N of Galeria Borghese, not far from Euclide train station), 068-070-917, rec'd TCI
  • Neve di Latte - Via Luigi Poletti 6 (Flaminio area), fun, fresh flavors, rec'd Katie Parla, Dissapore, Puntarella Rossa
  • Pico Gelato - near Bologna metro stop, Dissapore named the #44 gelateria in all Italy in 2017

Farther West

Further East


The following are sources for information about restaurants and other food places in Rome: