Italy‎ > ‎

Veneto/Venice

The Veneto region is a fiercely independent one, with Venice as its capital and major tourist draw.  However, it hosts many other sights, such as Verona (the backdrop of Romeo and Juliet) and Padua (a university town with the famous Scrovegni Chapel and Basilica of St. Anthony).

Venice

Getting There

  • Fly: the quickest option; check out Naples' discount airlines.
  • Train: Easy and quick on the fast frecce ("arrow") trains, most changing in Bologna or Rome and taking 5.5 hours, although 1 nonstop leaves at 1630.  There used to be a ICN (Inter-City Notte) sleeping train that ran all the way from Naples to Venice, but it appears to have been cancelled.
    • Note that the Santa Lucia train station is generally more convenient (it's on the island of Venice itself), but if you go into the Mestre station (on the mainland) there are ~10 minute trains to Santa Lucia every ~10 min.
  • Drive: Venice is a 7+ hour drive from Naples, mostly on A1.

Getting Around

The Grand Canal bisects the city; four bridges (along with traghetti "da parada" aka "Gondola Ferries", smaller gondolas that cost €4 a crossing) cross the Canal.  Vaporetti (ferries) run up and down the canal and connect the outlying islands. Venice is divided up into six sestieri (districts); also see Slow Travel's map and description:
  • Cannaregio - north, nightlife on Fondamenta della Misericordia; extreme northern edge has few tourists
  • Santa Croce - northwest of San Polo (below), is one of the least touristy areas
  • San Polo - northwest of San Marco, across the Rialto bridge, the oldest part of the city; includes Venice's fish market
  • Dorsoduro - south, artisan/student district, across the Accademia bridge from San Marco, with nightlife near campo Santa Margherita and to the west near the universities
  • San Marco - main square, the most touristy/crowded
  • Castello - east, fancy hotels and churches, and the medieval shipyard Arsenale

How to Ride Vaporetti

Reid's Italy has a nice introduction.
  • Maps: This PDF is pretty good.
  • Timetables: Google Maps does a reasonable job with most vaporetti, but there's also a Venice trip planner and PDFs for each line
  • Download the AVM Venezia app (iTunes, Play) - this lets you pay for tickets on your phone (versus having to find and then wait for a kiosk)...although if you have cash you can often buy on board if you present yourself immediately to the conductor.
  • Discounts: Children up to 6 years old are free. Those 29 years old or younger can get a "Rolling Venice" card which gives you unlimited transit for 72 hours for €29 total (as of 2018).
  • Riding a lot? There are various "time-limited" passes that give you 1, 2, 3, or 7 days of unlimited transport. For example, we got the 1-day pass (via the app!) on a day when we traveled a lot amongst the outlying islands (Burano, Mazzorbo, and Torcello).
  • Staying a while? You might consider "Venzia Unica for frequent users", a card that is designed for longer-term residents (it costs €50 total for water transport but once you have it, each vaporetto ticket is a fraction of the price it costs tourists...but it only makes financial sense if you're riding ~10 times or more).
  • Cheap Cruise: various people (including Rick Steves) recommend taking Line 1 (or if you want to go faster, Line 2) from the main train station down the Grand Canal, especially after the day trippers have left in the evening. Rick Steves also has a free MP3 guide that you can listen to as you glide down the canal.

*** = highly recommended by Luke

Sights

A city of ancient palaces sinking slowly into a lagoon, Venice itself is the main sight.  Just wander around and get lost in the canals!  Following are some of the specific tourist attractions; also check out Wikitravel and Frommer's.  Views on Venice also has a great list of sights for each sestiero, including information on attractions for children, cooking classes, and supermarkets.
  • Piazza San Marco - the main public square, with St. Mark's Basilica, Doge's Palace, Campanile, and Torre d'Orlogio.  Warning: cafes on this square charge ridiculous prices, especially if you sit down!
    • Reid's Italy recommends attending the St. Mark's Sunday 6:45 PM mass to see the ceiling mosaics lit up
  • Walk Around and Get Lost - part of the magic of Venice is exploring some of the narrow canals off the main tourist track...don't be afraid to wander off; between smartphone maps, signs, and friendly locals, you can find your way back to the main tourist sites easily
  • Ride the Canals - you can take an expensive gondola or the cheaper vaporetti (ferries), see above for details
  • Fun places to walk
    • Rialto Market - just north of the Rialto Bridge is the Rialto fish and produce market in the San Polo sestiero
    • Arsenale di Venezia - the "Venitian Arsenal" is a medieval shipyard that still houses part of the Italian Navy.  This makes for a nice walk between Castello and San Marco.
  • Islands - the islands around Venice in the lagoon give you another look at the city (and the trip there/back is fun), and some aren't as crowded as Venice itself
    • ***Burano - picturesque colorful buildings, also known for fishing and lace
      • ***Atelier Martina Vidal - one of the best lace shops on the island, is mostly made on the island (not mass-produced elsewhere), also has a beautiful garden/courtyar
      • ***Trattoria al Gatto Nero (Katie Parla, Michelin, Elizabeth Minchilli especially for risotto di gò and tiramisu, Lonely Planet, Venezia Autentica says book ahead) closed Sun dinner, Mon...a bit expensive but really nice
      • Riva Rosa (Michelin rec’s booking), lunch only except Fri/Sat/Sun, closed Wed
      • [Da Romano (Michelin, chefs on Gambero Rosso, Elizabeth Minchilli for old-school dishes cooked by a nonna...but Google reviews suggest that in past ~year it’s gotten bad/expensive...maybe Anthony Bourdain’s fault?)]
      • [Osteria Pescatori - mediocre Google & TA reviews]
    • ***Torcello - uncrowded island N of Burano, mostly abandoned but is actually older than the main island (when Torcello became silted up and malaria spread, people moved south); check out the 7th century cathedral with Byzantine mosaics...nice for a somewhat quieter time with more wildlife
    • Murano - famous for blown glass, just N of the main island
    • Giudeccca - usually not even considered an "island" since it's considered part of Dorsoduro, but you do need to take a boat to reach it...very close by is the San Giorgio Maggiore, which is the island church just opposite Piazza San Marco
    • Sant'Erasmo - the "orchard of Venice" since much of the food is grown here, supposedly great eating; check out the Orto di Venezia winery
    • Mazzorbo - just W of Burano (can travel between the two by bridge), has vineyards & orchards, not much to "see" but makes for a nice, less-crowded walk if you're sick of the crowds elsewhere
    • Lido - site of September's Venice Film Festival, lots of beaches...unlike other islands does have road traffic
    • Pellestrina - long strip of island just S of Lido, not as crowded (mostly fishermen) but also has beaches (and road traffic)
    • San Michele - cemetery island between Murano and the main island
    • Le Vignole - sparsely inhabited/more rural island, reachable by Vaporetto Line 13
    • ...there are dozens of smaller islands, some of which are owned entirely by companies or religious orders; this article describes some of the smaller ones
  • Museums
    • Accademia - museum for art lovers
    • Guggenheim - modern art museum in Dorsoduro (has some Picassos, etc...a nice location)
    • Frari Church - rec'd by Rick Steves
  • Interesting Churches
    • San Zaccaria - has an often flooded crypt
    • Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute - has a "black Madonna" painting
  • Vivaldi - this baroque composer spent most of his life in Venice, and thus there are many concerts (Venice Baroque Orchestra, La Fenice, Teatro Malibran, Teatro Toniolo, St. Mark's...)
  • Carnevale - Main website: www.carnevale.venezia.it
    • Monica Daniele - tabarri (Venetian cloaks) San Polo 2235, calle Scaleter, 041-524-6242, 9-6 M-Sat
    • Tragicomica - mask shop, San Polo 2800, calle dei Nomboli, 041-721-102, 10-7 daily
    • Ca'Macana - traditional masks from Commedia dell'arte tradition, Dorsoduro 3172, calle delle Botteghe, 041-520-3229, 10-6 daily
    • Carta Alta - mask shop, Dorsoduro 2808, campo San Barnaba, 041-523-8313, 10-2:30/3:30-6 M-Sat
    • MondoNovo - well-known mascheraio, Dorsoduro 3063, rio terà Canal, 041-528-7344, 10-6 M-Sat
  • Shopping
    • Libreria Acqua Alta - in Sestiere Castello, rec'd here
    • Santo Stefano area - across the Grand Canal from the Accademia, this design blog says there are a bunch of cool stores like Fiorella Gallery and Venetia Studium
    • Mercerie Area - between Piazza San Marco and Rialto Bridge...lots of stores, but also lots of tourists; most of the "big brands" are here

Where to Stay

  • San Giorgio Maggiore Monestary - interesting budget option (you pay what you can), staying literally across the Grand Canal from St. Mark's Square; they don't have a website but this article explains how it works
  • Acca Hotel - in San Polo, economical, rec'd by Fodors
  • Al Palazzetto - in Cannaregio, economical, rec'd by Fodors
  • Apartment rental: in addition to the usual suspects (VRBO, Airbnb, etc.) there's veniceapartments.org
  • Avoid staying in Mestre or Lido ...yes, it's cheaper, but you'll miss out on the romance of walking around the island at night
  • ItalyHeaven has a nice overview of Grand Canal hotels; also check out Fodors, Frommers, and Lonely Planet 

Where to Eat

Venice is known for seafood, as it is surrounded by the grand canal.  Another Venitian favorite is cicheti (also spelled cicchetti), or bar snacks, which are a bit like Spanish tapas (here's a Rick Steves guide to them), traditionally served at a bar called a bacaro.  Also check out Time Out's and Frommer's listings...The Times has a great list as well.

*** = Luke went there and liked it

  • San Marco
  • Castello
    • *** Local - rec'd Michelin, Lonely Planet, Dissapore, LiveLoveFood, Slow Food Osterie d’Italia 2017…closed Tues all day, Wed lunch; otherwise 12-2, 7-10, online booking - nice food although it's a bit fancy (not quite as kid-friendly as other places) and the service seemed a bit "nervous"/off (e.g. they made a big fuss over making sure if someone went to the bathroom, their napkins would be immediately folded, but after we asked it was a long wait to get our bill paid)
    • *** CoVino - [spin-off of Al Covo, very limited seating, market-driven menu, open Mon, 14-16 seats!] (HuffPo says popular with locals, Slow Food Osterie d’Italia 2017, Lonely Planet, Dissapore, NY Times, Skye Mcalpine) ...closed Tues/Wed...great food, although small location (not great for large groups)
    • ? Alle Testiere - Castello 5801, Calle del Mondo Novo, 041-522-7220, very limited seating (seats ~22 people for seatings at 7 PM and 9 PM), only fish, casual setting with butcher paper, rec'd Slow Food Osterie d’Italia 2017, Fodors Choice, Michelin, Gambero Rosso, Elizabeth Minchilli says lunch is easier to get a table, CN Traveler, Frommers, closed Sun/Mon
    • ? Trattoria Corte Sconta - known for its endless seafood appetizer menu and vine-draped courtyard, a bit expensive, rec’d Lonely Planet, Reid’s Italy, Michelin, The Roman Foodie, LiveLoveFood closed Sun/Mon

    • ? Al Covo - rec'd Michelin, Elizabeth Minchilli, Skye Mcalpine, run by Texan & her Venetian husband, seasonal, a bit expensive, updated classics with local ingredients; spaghetti with pesto & bottarga you “simply can’t miss” says Skye Mcalpine, expensive, rec’d Dissapore, Gillian’s Lists, LiveLoveFood, Gambero Rosso → closed Wed/Thurs

    • Osteria Santa Marina - rec’d Dissapore, Michelin, Fodors, Lonely Planet, Time Out, Gambero Rosso, My Art Guides says local ingredients, The Telegraph names one of its top 10 restaurants in Venice, a bit expensive (€65-80/person), closed Mon lunch, Sun

    • ? Enoiteca Mascareta - Castello 5183, Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa, 041-523-0744, run by the official enoteca association, organic wines and good food says this page, Fodors, Gambero Rosso, Lonely Planet, NY Times rec’s for late night, My Art Guides rec’s menu of the day, has organic “cloudy” prosecco ...dinner only open every day ...very entertaining owner Mauro Lorenzon, also see blog post

    • Al Mascaron - Castello 5225, Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa (NE of San Marco), 041-522-5995, rec’d by Fodors readers and this blog as reasonably priced and good, Gambero Rosso [associated with Enoteca Mascareta] ...NOT Al Mascaron Ridente (a hotel in Cannaregio)
    • Antica Osteria da Gino - near Biennale, rec’d Dissapore for risotto di go, good Google reviews, closed Mon ...not much online, website got hacked?

    • Gastrosofia Le Spighe - Via Giuseppe Garibaldi 1341, little stop-in place for organic/vegetarian food, rec’d Elizabeth Minchilli, Lonely Planet

    • Osteria da Pampo - Castello Sant'Elena, Calle Chinotto 24, near Bienale, 041-520-8419, 9-mid, closed Tues, cicheti and seafood rec'd by Alice, My Art Guides

    • were recommended back in ~2009, not sure now:
      • Al Portego - Castello 6015, Calle de la Malvasia, near Rialto bridge and Salizada San Lio 041-522-9038, closed Sun lunch, dinner ends at 10 (relatively early for Italy), rec'd by Slow Food (still in 2014) and Time Out for typical seafood like baccala, ~25-30 euro.
      • Alla Rivetta - Castello 4625, ponte San Provolo (just E of San Marco), 041-528-7302, closed Mon, cicheti and other simple, traditional Venitian food, very popular with locals and tourists alike, rec'd by Slow Food [no more in 2014!], ~35-40 euro.
      • Angio - Castello 2142, ponte della Veneta Marina, lagoon-front on riva degli Schiavoni, 041-277-8555, Feb-May & Oct-Dec 7-9, Jun-Sep 7-mid, closed Tues, good sandwiches, cheese, and wine, rec'd by Time Out.
      • Antica Trattoria Bandierette - Castello 6671, Barbaria de le Tole, 041-522-0619, closed Mon night, Tues, trattoria popular with locals, ~35 euro, rec'd by Alice.
      • L'Olandese Volante - Castello 5658, Campo San Lio, 041-589-349, close dSun lunch, good place for beer and snacks until midnight (or 1 am on Saturdays), ~16 euro.
      • Trattoria da Remigio - Castello 3416, Calle Bosello near Scuola San Giorgio dei Greci, Riva Degli Schiavoni, 041-523-0089, "exquisite food and excellent service at reasonable prices" says Frommer's.
      • Hotel Wildner Restaurant - Riva degli Schiavoni 4161 (Castello very near S. Marco, on Grand Canal), 041-522-7463, closed Tues and Jan, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014, Luca runs the hospitality and Alessandro the kitchen, traditional dishes
      • ***Al Garanghelo - Castello 1621, Via Garibaldi (S of Arsenale), 041-520-4967, www.garanghelo.com, open 8-mid, closed Tues, rec'd by Slow Food [no more in 2014!] and Time Out for simple but good food (spaghetti all abusara, sarde in saor, folpetti, paste fresche, dolci...), tourist menu for 14 euro.  Great deal/food! --> note: apparently had a change of ownership in 2012 which caused the food to suffer (see chowhound report
  • San Polo --> good place for a "cicheti crawl"
    • ? All'Arco - San Polo 436, Calle dell'Occhialer, near Rialto, 041-520-5666, closed Sun, cicheti and other cheap favorites (~10 euro for a meal!), rec'd by Lonely Planet, NY Times for bacaro hopping, Slow Food Osterie d’Italia 2017, LiveLoveFood,
    • ? Osteria dai Zemei - good bacaro known for cicheti, modern, run by 2 brothers, rec’d Lonely Planet, open every day
    • Osteria Alla Ciurma - rec’d NY Times for bacaro hopping, fried stuff, closed Sun

    • Cantina do Spade - rec’d NY Times for bacaro hopping, fried calamari, also here, closed Tues lunch

    • Osteria Bancogiro - rec’d NY Times for bacaro hopping, black polenta with baccalà mantecato, Skye Mcalpine, LiveLoveFood, closed Mon

    • Al Mercà - S. Polo Bruno Gavagnin’s favorite polpette cicchetti, The Roman Foodie, Time Out, LiveLoveFood rec’s eggplant polpette, closed Sun

    • Cantina Do Mori - San Polo 429, Calle dei Do Mori (near Rialto), 041-522-5401, 8:30am-8pm closed Sun...supposedly the oldest bacaro (cichetti bar) in Venice, known for francobolli ("postage-stamp" size sandwiches), rec’d by many people including Rick Steves, LiveLoveFood, Frommers

    • Vineria Amarone - bacaro rec’d Elizabeth Minchilli

    • Osteria Antico Giardinetto - ?

    • Trattoria alla Madonna - old school regional cuisine:  near Rialto (Michelin rec’s veal liver with onions [fegato alla veneziana], HuffPo says popular with locals, also Skye Mcalpine), closed Wed

    • Frary's - San Polo 2559, fondamenta dei Frari, 041-720-050, Middle Eastern food, rec'd by Lonely Planet, Time Out, gluten free/vegetarian options
    • ?Antiche Carampane - San Polo 1911, 041-524-0165, no menu, traditional place, serves whatever is fresh at the market that day, closed Sun/Mon, old school seafood with changing menu, somewhat expensive, requires booking ahead, rec'd Fodors Choice, Michelin, Lonely Planet, Elizabeth Minchili, Skye Mcalpine rec’s fritto misto, LiveLoveFood, CN Traveler
    • were recommended back in ~2009, not sure now:
      • Ai Nomboli - San Polo 2717c, Rio Tera dei Nomboli, ang. Calle Goldini (near eastern end), 041-523-0995, closed Sat/Sun, 041-523-0995, rec'd by Alice, cheap.
      • Alla Patatina - San Polo, Ponte S. Polo, near San Silvestro or San Toma vaporetto stop, 041-523-7238, local food rec'd by TCI, 35-45 tasting menu or ~20-35 euro a-la-carte.
      • Antica Osteria Ruga Rialto - San Polo 692, 041-521-1243, central location, traditional Venetial specialties (bigoli in salsa, rissotto di burscandoli, pasta e fagioli, trippa, sarde fritte) 30-35 euro, or 10 euro lunch menu, rec'd by Alice.
      • Bancogiro Osteria da Andrea - San Polo 122, Campo San Giacometo, near Rivoalto, 041-523-2061, tables on Grand Canal, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food [no more in 2014!], Espresso, and Time Out.
      • Da Pinto - San Polo 367, Campo de le Becarie, 041-522-4599, ostaria, popular during the Saturday morning market, open 9am-10pm, ~10 euro, rec'd by Panorama.
  • Santa Croce
    • ### Osteria Trefanti - interesting spices, only 8 tables, run by disciple of Testiere chef, organic wines, Lonely Planet, Naturally Epicurean ...closed Mon all day, Sun lunch; otherwise 12-2:30, 7-10:30 email
    • (Osteria) (Al) La Zucca - Santa Croce 1762, Ponte del Meglio, Calle delle Tintor, 041-524-1570, closed Sun, small osteria, traditional food with creative twist, mostly vegetarian, rec'd by TCI, Michelin, Lonely Planet, Elizabeth Minchilli, slow travel, Time Out
    • Al Prosecco - Santa Croce 1502, Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio, 041-524-0222, closed Sun and Jan/Aug, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d’Italia 2017 for nice view, chiceti, crostini, prosecco, and seasonal dishes (including cheese & salumi platters)
    • Hostaria Veneziana - rec'd Slow Food Osterie d’Italia 2017
    • were recommended back in ~2009, not sure now:
      • Al Nono Risorto - Santa Croce 2338, Sotoportego de la Siora Bettina, 041-524-1169, 12-2 except W/Th, 7-mid except W, informal pizzeria/trattoria on the western end of city, popular with young kids, rec'd by Alice and Time Out, 14-16 euro menu of the day or 25-30 euro a-la-carte. 
      • Il Refolo - Santa Croce 1459, campiello del Piovan, 041-524-0016, 12-2:30 and 7-11, closed M all day, Tues lunch, Dec-Jan, set up by Da Fiore folks, pizzeria and international-style restaurant, rec'd by Time Out
  • Dorsoduro
    • ?Enoteca Ai Artisti - Dorsoduro rec’d Katie Parla, Dissapore, Gillian’s Lists, The Telegraph, Frommers only 20 seats!, no freezer so everything is made fresh...no fish on Monday because market is closed that day, closed Sun
    • ## Estro hip enoteca with chalkboard specials, tramezzino sandwiches, cicchetti, wines all grown naturally, rec’d Lonely Planet, chefs on Gambero Rosso, Time Out, Dissapore ...closed Tues, open all afternoon

    • ## Adriatico Mar - enoteca with km 0, gluten free menu, great Google reviews, My Art Guides... this page says organic drinks/wine, also here and here ...closed Sun & Mon lunch

    • ?? Osteria al Squero - Dorsoduro classic bacaro with old school cichetti, called "al Squero" because it's across a canal from an old gondola repair shop, rec'd Fodors Choice, Lonely Planet, Skye Mcalpine, The Guardian, The Times ...closed Wed

    • ? Cantine del Vino già Schiavi - Fondamenta Nani 992 (near Osteria al Squero, might be a good option if Squero is full/closed and you want a similar vibe), San Trovaso, near San Trovaso and Zattere, 041-523-0034, 8:30am-8:30pm, closed Sun, rec’d Fodors, Time Out, The Guardian, Reid’s Italy, My Art Guides for old-school, house-made cichetti, stand at the bar, was in Slow Food guide but not anymore as of 2017

    • ?? Impronta Cafe - nice casual spot with an actual salad bar, Telegraph, Lonely Planet likes everything but the cheese platter, Fodors, Venezia Autentica, open early/late, except Sun closed

    • La Bitta - Dorsoduro 2753a, Calle Lunga San Barnaba, near San Sebastiano church, 041-523-0531, 6:30-11pm, closed Sun, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d’Italia 2017, Fodors Choice, Elizabeth Minchilli for salad, fegato alla veneziana, polenta...tiny so reservations are essential; no credit cards, closed Sun, known for having land, not sea, food (unlike most Venetian restaurants)

    • Oniga - rec’d Gambero Rosso, open every day, Lonely Planet says organic ingredients & some Hungarian dishes

    • Riviera - expensive, rec’d Lonely Planet, chefs on Gambero Rosso, Gambero Rosso

    • Osteria ai 4 Feri (Quatro Feri) - Dorsoduro 2754, Campo San Barnaba, traditional Venetian food, popular with locals says The Times, rec'd Alice

    • Al Chioschetto - Dorsoduro 1406A, fondamenta delle Zattere (near central southern end near Tronchetto Lido di Venezia), 348-396-8466, caffe-bar with good panini, only outdoor seating, rec'd by Time Out for panini/small plates
    • Bacareto da Lele - rec'd here for panini
  • Cannaregio
    • ***Anice Stellato - Cannaregio 3272, Fondamenta de la Sensa, near piazzale Roma, 041-720-744, 12:30-2, 7:30-10, closed Mon & Tues restaurant that uses ginger, etc. in cooking (Elizabeth Minchilli, Katie Parla, NY Times, The Guardian, Time Out, Dissapore, Gambero Rosso, Fodors says kitchen can be inconsistent, LiveLoveFood says book ahead, as does this blog)...closed Mon all day, Tues lunch; otherwise 12:15-2, 7:15-10...can also eat cicheti standing up bacaro style...we ate here in 2017 and enjoyed it
    • (***)Trattoria da Bepi - Cannaregio 4550, Salizada Pistor, north of Campo Santi Apostoli (near Rialto Bridge), 041-528-5031, closed Th, rec'd by Rick Steves for its fresh seafood and homey atmosphere, we had some outstanding squid ink pasta here!  (Note: a number of tripadvisor reviewers give it poor marks...maybe they aren't consistent?)
    • Vini da Gigio - Brother/sister popular with locals, S of Fond. Nove, Michelin, Fodors Choice [rec’s fegato alla veneziana], Time Out, The Telegraph, Gambero Rosso, Dissapore, Golosario, Lonely Planet, My Art Guides says good/fresh ingredients, both good seafood & meat dishes, closed Mon/Tues...somewhat creative takes on traditional dishes; we went here in 2017 and liked it, but it's not worth a special trip
    • ?Osteria la Bottega ai Promessi Sposi - cooks used to be a Ca’ D’Oro, popular with locals, sit-down and cicchetti, Time Out, Elizabeth Minchilli, Katie Parla, Naturally Epicurian, Dissapore, The Telegraph)...closed Mon/Wed lunch, blogpost → seems like a nice place for cicchetti but maybe not for sit-down meal?? [apparently awesome baccala mantecato, sarde in saor]
    • ?Osteria alla Frasca - Cannaregio 5176, Campiello della Carita, near Gesuiti church and Fondamenta Nuove, tiny place popular with locals, good Google reviews, Time Out, also Naturally Epicurean (menu changes daily)...a bit modern but nothing special? - open every day Biologico??
    • ??Ostaria da Rioba - northern Cannaregio, rec’d by Dissapore (says it’s a bit “trendy”), The Times, Lonely Planet, My Art Guides says nice location/decor, closed Mon
    • ?Trattoria Ca' d'oro-Alla Vedova - Cannaregio 3912, Calle del Pistor (southern-ish, near Grand Canal), famous for cicheti, polpette (meatballs) and artichoke hearts, traditional, popular with locals: rec'd Rick Steves, Slow Food Osterie d’Italia 2017, Michelin, Time OutLiveLoveFood, Naturally Epicurean, closed Sun lunch, Thurs
    • Osteria al Ponte - Cannaregio 6378, Ponte del Cavallo, near Calle Larga Giacinto Gallina (not far from Grand Canal), 041-528-6157, close to Castello, very good reviews on Google, rec’d here for low priced bacaro, Dissapore also says it’s known for low prices, says it (used to be?) in Slow Food guide? Open every day?...mixed reviews on TripAdvisor, (Note: Different from the more expensive Al Ponte at Santa Croce 1666)
    • Vino Vero - has cichetti (esp. bruschette?), lots of good reviews on Google & TA...some reviews complain about prices but most say it’s good, mostly on bread (pintxos style)?? Biodynamic wines, Thurs nights live music, Rec’d LiveLoveFood, Lonely Planet, Wine & Spirits Magazine, My Art Guides, Naturally Epicurean, Venezia Autentica, Dissapore ...closed Mon lunch
    • Osteria da Alberto - rec’d Elizabeth Minchilli says it’s not “special” but it’s delicious (was in Slow Food guide but not since 2014), open every day
    • Trattoria dalla Marisa - Cannaregio 652b, 041-720-211, Elizabeth Minchilli says it’s inexpensive, local-friendly, good, informal, canalside near train station, also rec’d Slow Food Osterie d’Italia 2017, The Roman Foodie, closed Sun-Tues dinner → near Ca’ Foscari University
    • Orto dei Morti - run by Sicilian guy, rec'd Lonely Planet, Fodors
    • Enoteca la Colombina - rec'd Michelin, mother and son place
    • Osteria Bea Vita - rec’d The Times for daily specials, fresh seafood along canal
    • Paradiso Perduto - near Ghetto, nice bacaro HuffPo says is popular with locals, does live Jazz some nights, LiveLoveFood
    • Al Fontego dei Pescatori - Katie Parla rec’s pesce crudo and frittura mista, Food & Wine says chef is good with wild herbs?
    • 40 Ladroni (Quaranta Ladroni) - local fish Skye Mcalpine’s favorite Cannaregio restaurant,”The kind of place where you don’t order, but an array of antipasti are brought to the table without you even asking”...mixed reviews on Google
    • Al Timon - bacaro rec’d by NY Times for cicchetti, also LiveLoveFood for crostini and organic wine, Venezia Autentica for aperiftif hour
    • Cantina Vecia Carbonera - Cannaregio 2329, local bacaro hangout rec’d The Times, Dissapore (“classic bacaro”)
    • Cantina Azienda Agricola (Agricole?) - bacaro, rec’d The Guardian, Gillian’s Lists, Venezia Autentica (says good prices)
    • Fiaschetteria Toscana - classic venetian (despite the name), a bit expensive, rec’d Time OutTravel & Leisure, Gambero Rosso
    • Enoteca da Roberto - bacaro rec’d Elizabeth Minchilli
    • El Sbarfelo - bacaro rec’d Elizabeth Minchilli
    • La Cantina - Cannaregio 3689, Katie Parla didn’t like pasta fagioli but liked meat/cheese, locals get oysters, mediocre Google reviews, Time Out rec’s for drinks, My Art Guides
    • Ristorante Pizzeria ai Tre Archi - good for kids, rec'd Venezia Autentica
    • MQ10 (Metri Quadrati Dieci) - rec'd Venezia Autentica
    • Al Parlamento - bacaro rec’d here
    • Algiubagiò - near Fondamenta Nove, rec'd Michelin
    • Da Luca e Fred - rec’d The Guardian (for mid-day risotto), Dissapore
    • Osteria Boccadoro - also nearby, fancy versions of classics, rec’d Fodors, Lonely Planet, HuffPo says popular with locals...but glass sculptures?? Open every day
    • Osteria Al Bacco - old place, good fritto misto rec’d The Guardian and The Culture Trip
    • Torrefazione CannaregioGillian’s Lists and this author both say it's the best (and oldest) coffee place in Venice, not far from the train station
  • Giudecca
    • Alla Palanca - Giudecca 448, fondamenta del Ponte Piccolo, 041-528-7719, 12-2:30 M-Sat meals (bar 7am-8:30pm), bacaro but has tables, mostly lunch, great Google reviews, Lonely Planet, Elizabeth Minchilli, Time Out, The Telegraph ...closed Sun
    • Cip's Club @ Hotel Cipriani - fancy bar that supposedly does nice bellini, at a very fancy hotel that is apparently George Clooney's favorite
  • Islands --> See above
    • Lido:
      • Al Merca - Lido, via Enrico Dandolo 17A, 041-526-4549, 10:30-3, 6:30-mid, closed Mon, ~40 euro, rec'd by Time Out.
      • Le Garzette - rec'd at The Guardian
    • Murano: Perla-Bisadei - Locanda Murano, Campo San Bernardo 1, 041-739-528, closed Sat, traditional local favorites, 30-35 euro including house wine, rec'd by Panorama.
    • Pellestrina: Da Celeste - Conde Nast Traveler says it's "one of the best seafood restaurants in Venice"
  • Mainland
    • Moro - Via Piave 192, near Mestre Train Station, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014
    • Ostaria da Mariano - Via Spalti 49 (well north of Mestre Train Station), rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014
  • Gelato
    • ***Gelato di Natura - small local chain that has franchised to as far away as China (!), our favorite gelateria when we visited in 2017, has 3 locations:
    • ?Boutique del Gelato, Castelo 5727, salizzada San Lio, 041-522-3283, closed Dec/Jan, Feb-May & Oct-Nov 10-8:30 daily, Jun-Sep 10-11:30 daily; Time Out says it's the most popular and arguably the best in the city, also rec'd Naturally Epicurean
    • ?Alaska Gelateria-Sorbetteria - Santa Croce 1159, calle larga dei Bari, 041-715-211, closed Dec/Jan, Feb-Mar & Nov 12-9 daily, Apr-Oct 11-mid daily; Time Out rec's as having fresh, natural ingredients; both favorites and oddballs (artichoke, fennel, asparagus, ginger)
    • Grom - chain that started in Turin but still has pretty good gelato — various locations throughout Venice
    • Bacaro del Gelato - Cannaregio, good Google reviews, Venezia Autentica

    • ?San Stae - Salizada San Stae, Santa Croce 1910, has spicy flavors like star anise, ginger, etc...rec’d by Bruno Gavagnin in WSJ article;  S. Croce → now called Fontego delle Dolcezze?

    • ? Suso Gelatoteca - rec’d The Times, The Roman Foodie

    • ? Gelateria Ca’ D’Oro - rec'd Venezia Autentica

    • Mela Verde - rec’d at Venezia Autentica ...also Skye Mcalpine says “Quite possibly the best ice cream in Venice”, innovative flavors change daily

    • Gelateria da Nico - apparently popular with celebrities, rec'd LiveLoveFood, this post likes the gianduia

    • Gelateria Il Doge - LiveLoveFood

    • Il Pinguino - Castello, rec’d Naturally Epicurean

    • Gelateria San Leonardo - Cannaregio, rec’d Naturally Epicurean

    • Il Doge - classic?

    • were rec'd in ~2009, not sure now:
      • Gelateria Lo Squero - Dorsoduro 989-90, fondamenta Nani, 347-269-7921, 11-9 daily, Time Out rec's various fresh flavors, incluidng the light and creamy mousse series
      • Igloo - San Marco 3651, calle della Mandola, 041-522-3003, Feb-Mar & Oct-Nov 11:30-7:30, Apr-Sep 11-9, closed mid Nov-Carnevale.  Time Out rec's for fresh gelato, especially fruit flavors in the summer.
      • Il Gelatone - Cannaregio 2063, rio terà Maddalena, 041-720-631, Jan-Apr & Oct-Dec 11-8, May-Sep 11-10:30.  Rec'd by Time Out for "luscious," "overflowing" cones.
    • Pastries:

Bars


--> also look up "bacaro", "enoteca", and "cichetti" in Restaurants, above

Ombra = a small glass of wine
Bàcari = bars
Spritz = white wine, Campari, and sparkling water
  • Naranzaria - near grand canal, good wines
  • Bancogiro - near grand canal
  • Ardidos - cool design
  • Al Marcà - shade
  • Skyline Bar - drink with a view
  • Al Chioschetto - Zattere waterside bar
  • Vincent Bar - "leafy lagoon charm"
  • Taverna del Campiello Remer - grand canal perch, rec'd by Time Out
  • Vino Vino - wine bar near San Marco square rec'd by Frommer's
  • Harry's Bar - famous bar just south of San Marco square, invented the Bellini cocktail, www.cipriani.com
  • More ideas here from the Guardian

Verona

"Two households, both alike in dignity, in fair Verona, where we lay our scene..." begins Romeo and Juliet.   Shakespeare never went to Verona, and "Juliet's Balcony" is pretty much a tourist scam, but romance is still alive in Verona, the second largest in Veneto, which inspired the great romantic tragedy.   Verona also has great Roman ruins, including an amphitheater ("la Arena") where open-air opera is staged in the summer.  See this Rick Steves article and TV show clip for a nice introduction to the town.

Where to Eat

The following places are recommended in guidebooks:

Padua (Padova)

Known for its university, Padua hosts the Scrovegni Chapel, which has frescos by Giotto, and Basilica of St. Anthony, a popular pilgrimage site (which also has Donatello statues and Renaissance carvings).

Vicenza

Rick Steves recommends this town for its Venice-like Rennaissance palaces, many designed by architect Andrea Palladio.  Palladio also designed the splendid Olympic Theater.  Rick rec's Zi Teresa, a local restaurant.

Cortina d'Ampezzo

Home to the 1956 winter Olympics, this Dolomite town is known for some of the best skiing in Italy, if not Europe.
  • La Taverna di Cornelio - Via Cantore 1, 043-622-32, 043-625-35, www.hotelcornelio.com, restaurant associated with Hotel Cornelio, highly rec'd by Naples sub JOs
  • Ghedina al Passetto?
  • Al Camin? - rec'd by Frommer's
  • La Tavernetta - rec'd by Frommer's and Fodors
  • Caffè Royale - café outside a hotel, rec'd by Frommer's
  • [expensive places; Baita Piè Tofana, Il Meloncino al Caminetto, Leone e Anna, Tivoli]
  • Just outside of town:
    • Ospitale - rec'd by Frommer's, Gambero Rosso, and Michelin
    • El Brite de Larieto - agriturismo outside of town (in Larieto), rec'd by Espresso
    • LP 26 Prosciutteria dall'Ava - rec'd by Alice
    • Rio Gere - alpine rifugio rec'd by Alice
    • Ristorante Baita Fraina - restaurant which also rents out rooms, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Michelin, and TCI
    • Ristorante Lago Scin






Comments