US Military Bases

• Auchan - one of the largest hypermarkets, the main one near Naples is in Giugliano (40°56'N 14°9'E), which is co-located with a Conforama, Euronics, Decathlon, and Leroy Merlin (see below) Sun 10-9, Mon 1-9, T-Sat 9-9.  Another one is in Mugnano, northwest of Capo (40°54.7'N 14°13.4'E, same hours).  Yet another is at the Volcano Buono, a huge mall near Nola half an hour east of the Support Site (40°57'N 14°29.3'E, M 12-10, T-Sun 10-10)
• Ipercoop - a hypermarket that is also a farmer co-op, so they have good produce and store brands.  One is near Carney Park in "Quarto Nuovo" (40°52.7'N  14°6.7'E) Sun/M 10-9, T-Sat 9-9; the other is in Afragola in "Le Porte di Napoli" (40°56'N 14°21.1'E) Sun/M 10-9, T-F 9-9, Sat 9-10.
• Carefour - similar to Auchan, this is the major store in the two-storey Campania Mall, on A1 north of Naples (in Marcianise, near Caserta, 41°0.2'N 14°19.5'E).  Also a smaller one near Capo in Casoria at 40°53.9'N 14°18.7'E.
• La Reggia Designer Outlet - a collection of outlet stores across A1 from the Campania Mall (see Carefour, above), open every day 10-10.
• Ikea - similar to the States, although bedding is all in European sizes.  A good selection of relatively inexpensive kitchen wear.  There is one near Capo in Afragola (40°54.5'N 14°19'E), right across from a Leroy Merlin (see below); every day 10-9 except August 15 (Ferragosto).
• Leroy Merlin - Home Depot equivalent.  One is near Auchan (same hours as Auchan) and one is near Ikea (open 9-9 every day).
• Euronics - electronics store.  One is near Auchan and one is near the Quarto Nuovo Ipercoop.
• Decathlon - sporting goods store; one near Auchan (same hours as Auchan) and one near the Campania Mall/Carefour (10-9 every day).
• Metro Pozzuoli - Costco-like wholesale store with great deals on wine, bulk foods, and cookwear; you can get in using a military ID.  On Via Campania, near Carney Park, 40°51.2'N 14°7.1'E, 081-303-8111, M-Sat 7-9, Sun 9-8.

Negozi

Negozi ("Stores") are all over the place, from the small mom-and-pop to the huge department stores; the following are some of the major shopping districts:

• Via Toledo - the place to be seen; it seems that all of Naples heads here in the evenings for a passagiata (walk).  A number of department stores inhabit the old palazzi; also has the splendid mall of Galleria Umberto I
• Corso Umberto - another major shopping street, which connects Piazza Garibaldi with Piazza Municipo.
• Via Chiaia - one of the hippest places to shop, between Piazza del Plebiscito and Mergellina.  Along the way and continuing past Piazza dei Martiri to Via dei Mille and Piazza Amadeo, you will find many designer brands as well as discount stores.
• Vomero - many nice stores, especially on via Scarlatti.

• Asian Food Store: Supermercato Daxiyang, Corso Novara 3/A (right across from McDonald's at Garibaldi Central Train Station) 081-281595, open 8-8 every day, 40.85361,14.271583.
• Ukranian/Russian/German Store:  Svetlana S.A.S., viale Cappuccini Carmine 10, in Pozzuoli (near via Napoli lungomare), 9-1, 4-7:30, closed Mon, 081-303-2694.
• Il Mercatino - Varcaturo, consignment shop/thrift store
• Naturamica - in Bagnoli near the GS, has a lot of "natural" (hippie) products as well as Asian foods, etc. Via Nuovo Agnano 55, 081-570-2692, 9-8, closed Sun, www.naturamica.it
• Ciro's in Licola - popular store with Americans, has furniture/ironwork, etc 348-098-7116, Via Montenuovo, Licola Patria 141, N 40 52' 6" E 14 3' 41"
• Sita/Standa in Pozzuoli - neighborhood supermarket near Madigan's, M-Sat 9-1, 4:30-8 (5-8:30 in the summer).
• Menswear:
• To get shirts and suits made-to-order, the New York Times recommends Anna Matuozzo (viale Gramsci 26, 081-668-3874) and Antonio Panico (via Carducci 29, 081-415-804) respectively.
• E. Marinella is the most renowned tie shop in Naples (Riviera di Chiaia 287, 081-764-4214, M-Sat 7-1:30 and 3-8); Marinella has provided ties to U.S. Presidents and other famous folks.
• C Style, a menswear store near Piazza Garibaldi, gives pretty good prices (~100-300 euro) for suits, free tailoring, Corso Umberto 292, 081-195-75-869‎/081-563-4422, open every day but Sun, riposo from 2:30-3:30, closed 15-31 August.
• Giovanni Festa (G.F.), also near Piazza Garibaldi (Via S. Cosomo F.P. Nolana 44, 081-554-8696, 9-1 and 2-6, closed Sat afternoon, Sun, and August), is a wholesale clothing store; follow the "G.F." signs to a place with 60 euro suits and 20 euro shirts; also see Stars and Stripes article.
• Shoe Alley (Poggioreale) market also has cheap suits (around 50-60 euro) off the rack; see below for details.
• Hairdressers/Barbers/Stylists:
• Enrico Sorrentino - Via Acace, 86 - Pinetamare/Castel Volturno 9-8 T-Sat 338-416-0603/338-935-4117
• Noi Salon - Vicoletto Belledonne a Chiaia 9, downtown Naples not far from Piazza Amadeo metro, 081-405-457, English-speaking, popular with expats, also a branch in Rome.  See Napoli Unplugged review.
• Misty Ellis (Misty in Italy) - works near Support Site, also see her Facebook page.
• Wrought Iron:
• Ciro in Licola - Via Montenuovo Licola Patria 141, behind bathroom remodeling store on Saturday mornings, 348-098-7116, 40°52'06"N 14°03'41"E, does wine racks, custom beds/tables, etc.

Shopping Streets in Naples also has more information.

Mercati

"Mercato" in Italian could mean the corner store, but it also means an open-air market, where you can often find the freshest foods and the best deals.  Even if you don't buy anything, these are worth checking out just to experience the sensory overload of an Italian market.

• Pignasecca Fish/Produce Market - 8-1 every day.  Some of the best fruits, vegetables, and seafood in the city.  Via Portamedina and Via Pignasecca, which connect the Montesanto metro stops (Line 1, 2, and Funicular) with Via Toledo; near 40°50.74'N 14°14.89'E.
• "Christmas Alley" - Nativity scene (creche) paraphanalia.  Via San Gregorio Armeno, which connects Spaccanapoli and Via Tribunali in the Centro Storico.  Normal shopping hours for most of the year, although open late/Sundays near Christmas/Epiphany.  40°51'N 14°15.47'E
• "Gold Alley" - another name for Spaccanapoli in the Centro Storico.  So-called because there are a number of gold and jewlery shops, especially near Via Duomo; normal shopping hours. 40°51'N 14°15.6'E
• Vomero Market (Mercato di Antignano) - Mon-Sat 8 to 2.  Fruits, vegetables, clothing, household goods.  Via Luca Giordano, a few blocks west of Piazza Vanvitelli (on Line 1 or Funicular), leading to Largo Antignano and Piazza degli Artisti.  40°50.62'N 14°13.7'E
• Pozzuoli Fish/Produce Market - Tues-Sun 7-2 (although shops start closing at 1).  Fresh fish/shellfish, fruits, vegetables, and assorted other foodstuffs.  Off Via Nicola Fasano, a couple blocks north of the Tempio di Serapide, 40°49.7'N 14°7.1'E.  Especially popular on Sunday (probably because all the other shops are closed!).
• Fuorigrotta Market - M-Sat 9-2.  Fruit, vegetables, fish, other food, household goods.  Across from the Fuorigrotta Cumana stop (look for blue gate).
• Antique Market - On weekends 8-2; see website for which days (typically 3rd weekend of the month).  southern side of Villa Communale Park (take funicular or Metro line 2 to Piazza Amadeo and walk south--if coming by car there is often parking along the water), 40°49.96'N 14°13.9'E
• "Theives' Alley" (Mercato Duchesa) - M-Sat 9-7:30.  Clothing, sportswear, electronics, furnishings. Large commerical area just Northwest of Piazza Garibaldi.
• "Shoe Alley" (Mercatino Poggioreale) - Fri-Mon 7-2; closed Aug; more crowded after 11 and on Sun.  Shoes, clothing, material.  Via Marino di Caramanico/Via del Macello in Poggioreale, north of the Gianturco metro stop (also near the Poggioreale Circumvesuviana stop)...in a mildly sketchy part of town, so don't bring valuables or nice cars.  40°51.8'N 14°17.37'E
• Mercato delle Pulci (Flea Market) - Sun 8-2.  Junk, coins, lamps, tables, some antiques.  Just north of Shoe Alley on via Poggioreale, near the Cemetary.
• Posillipo Market - Thurs from ~8-9 to ~1-2; closed Aug.  Clothes, household goods, "trendy".  In a park near Via Manzoni and Via Porta.
• Bancarelle a San Pasquale - M-W, Fri, Sat 8-2; closed Aug.  Fruit, vegitables, spices, fish, clothes, jewelry.  Via San Pasquale, Via Carducci, and Via Imbriani, just south of the Piazza Amadeo metro stop.
• Porta Nolana Fish Market - 7-1:30 every day.  Famous fish market in a historic district; just south of Piazza Garibaldi (near the end of the line for the Circumvesuviana).  40°51.02'N 14°16.1'E
• "Buvero" Market (S. Antonio Abate) - M-Sat 9-7:30.  Food (and other household goods) market on Via Sant'Antonio Abate, north of the train station (S. Antonio Abate runs parallel with Corso Garibaldi about a block to the west; the market runs down most of the street, starting near the Porta Capuana at the south and spilling out onto Via Benedetto Cairoli at the north--some of the best produce seems to be near the intersection between Sant'Antonio Abate and Benedetto Cairoli).  Excellent deals (e.g. in August 2009, 3 kilos of eggplant for 1 euro).  40°51.34'N 14°15.95'E
• Torretta Market (Mergellina) - 9-1 every day, Viale Antonio Gramsci near the water, covered market with food and clothes.
• Fiori (Flower) Market - from dawn to 8 AM in the moat around Castel Nuovo; mostly frequented by street vendors.
• Porta d'Alba Book Market - buy and sell used books between the Alba gate (near Piazza Dante on Via Toledo) and Piazza Bellini (near the Archeological Museum); roughly normal shopping hours.
• Monterusciello Market - Wed morning, food, clothes, and other goods, between Monterusciello Sud and Nord exits.  (Driving directions courtesy of David Hunter:  from the N, take Monterusciello Sud, turn L at end of exit, when road splits, head towards Monterusciello.  In ~750 meters, turn L at 4-lane road, park at the bottom of the hill; do not pay more than €1 for parking--they try to fleece Americans for more but no Italian pays more than €1.)
• Lago Patria Market - Thurs morning, small.
• Quarto Market - Mon morning, clothes and other goods.
• Gricignano Market - Thurs morning, food, clothes, and other goods; make left at Patrick's automotive and continue to roundabout.
• Aversa Market - Sat morning, Piazza Giovanni XXIII/via Maria Teresa di Calcutta (moved Sept 2011 to Via Enrico De Nicola??), 081-504-9111
• Nola Market - Wed 7:30-1.  Large market.  Piazza D'Armi, in front of the Circumvesuviana Station.
• Caserta Market - Wed and Sat 8:30-1:30.  Large market with a wide variety of goods.  41°5.1'N 14°21'E.
• Mercato di Resina (Ercolano, outside Herculaneum) - every day 8:30-1:30; closed Aug.  Big, noisy market with new and used goods.  Via Pugliano in Ercolano.
• San Lorenzello Antique Market - once a month, on last weekend.  See http://archivio.comunesanlorenzello.it/ARCH_MERCANTICO/mercantico_indice/

Online

To get stuff from the States that is not available on base, it is very convenient to go online.  However, not every retailer ships to FPO addresses.  Here are some resources that will help you shop online:

• General note:  The best way to ship is USPS Priority Mail, which arrives in about a week (maybe two).  Parcel Post can take 1.5-3 months.  Unfortunately, retailers don't always specify which one they are using.
• Oconus.com has a list of places that ship overseas, and a very useful guide to FPO shipping.
• Shipitapo.com , for a small fee, will receive items from retailers that do not ship to FPO/APO and then re-ship it to you.
• Apobox.com offers a similar service.
• Notes on Specific Stores:
• Autozone offers free shipping to FPO addresses!
• Amazon.com will ship to FPO, even using their "Super Saver" free shipping (although they caution that it could take up to 21 days).  They do not, however, offer next/2nd day service, and some of the "marketplace" retailers on the Amazon site can charge a lot for FPO shipping.
• Barnesandnoble.com also ships to FPO, including their "Fast and Free" service (although the "fast" guarantee of 3 days does not apply to FPO).  Like amazon, the "air" shipping is not an option for FPO.
• Newegg.com ships to FPOs but warn that it could take 6-8 weeks to deliver, so this is likely Parcel Post (although their FAQ says 2-6 weeks).
• Rei.com allows "standard" shipping (most orders cost $10).
• Gap companies (Gap, Banana Republic, Old Navy, Piperlime, and Athleta) ship for free to FPOs
• Stores that do not ship to FPO:
• Buy.com (they only ship via UPS)