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Capri, Procida, Ischia

Capri

With its wild cliffs plunging into the blue water below, you can understand why Emperor Tiberius decided to live here rather than Rome.  (You can decide for yourself whether the many lecherous things he is accused of doing on Capri are true.)  Learn how to get to Capri at the ferry section of the transportation pageWikivoyage's page also has lots of information, including hotel listings and details about the Blue Grotto.

What to Do

  • Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto) - various motor boats connect you between the Marina Grande and the mouth of this wonderous cave, which sparkles with an unworldly light blue light.  You typically pay a separate rower to take you in, although after hours or during the off-season you can swim in (technically illegal but nobody's watching).  A cheaper way of getting to the cave entrance is to take the bus from Anacapri's "Piazza del Cimitero," a 5 min walk from the main town square.  You can also walk the ~1 hour from Anacapri's Piazza Diaz: take via Cava and via Lo Pozzo to reach the path, which passes Villa Damecuta, one of Tiberius's ruined villas, a good place for a picnic.
  • Monte Solaro - Anacapri has a chair lift that takes you to the highest point on the island (~€7.50-10, open Mar-Oct 9:30-4:30, Nov-Feb 9:30-3, www.seggioviamontesolaro.it); you can also hike up and/or down, passing the 14th century hermitage of Santa Maria Cetrella (the hike up begins at via Capodimonte, near Villa San Michele)
  • Villa Jovis - Tiberius's ruined palace near the east side of the island, awesome view although the ruins are fairly, well, ruined, €2, open 9 until 1 hour before sunset, 081-837-4549, www.villajovis.it  The walk between Capri town and Villa Jovis is beautiful, although mostly uphill; take via Le Botteghe from the Piazetta and follow the signs for Villa Jovis.
  • Hiking - There are some great hikes on Capri:
    • Capri to Faraglioni and Arco Naturale.  

      Arco Naturale
      A beautiful 1 hour footpath between Arco Naturale (stone arch) and i Faraglioni (sea stacks): From the Piazetta in Capri town, go down via Vittorio Emanuele to via Camerelle to via Tragara, which leads to the Belvedere Tragara looking over the Faraglioni.  Head down the nearby walkway (via Faraglioni which turns into via Pizzolungo); you will soon pass the steep beach access road (you can detour here if you want to go to water).  Continuing past Villa Malaparte (a famous pink-red villa on Punto Massullo), up and down several stairs to the Grotta Matromania (a cavern/Roman temple).  Keep on heading up the stairs to the Grotelle restaurant.  At the restaurant, head right, where stairs lead down to the Arco Naturale (going left, down via Matermania, takes you back to the Piazetta).  You can also turn off via Matermania to via Tiberio, to head up to Villa Jovis.  You can also do the hike in reverse, which is generally easier (as it spreads out the climbing): from the Piazetta head down via Le Botteghe, following signs for the Arco Naturale; once you reach Grotelle restaurant just do the loop in reverse. (In 2016 the Arco Naturale was "under construction" but it re-opened in May 2017.)
    • Anacapri to Migliara.  45 min, easy walk through relatively rural countryside to a beautiful lookout; from via Caposcuro near Monte Solaro chair lift, head south; the street turns into via Migliara and ends at the cliffs.  Magical at sunset.
    • Anacapri to Marina Grande.  Heading the other way on via Caposcuro leads to a series of 881 stairs (the Scala Fenicia) hugging the cliff, leading down to the Marina Grande.
    • Short walks from Capri town.  1) From the Santo Stefano church on the Piazetta, go to the top of the church steps, and take via Madre Serafina on the right, leading to via Castello and the Belvedere Cannone.  2) From the Piazetta head down the main street of Vittorio Emanuele as it turns into Federico Serena; turning left on viale Matteoti/via Certosa leads to olive groves and the 14th century Certosa di San Giacomo monestary (081-837-6218, 9-2, closed Mon); turning right leads to the Giardini di Augusto terraced gardens (open dawn-dusk, free) and the hairpin path to the Marina Piccola.  3) Follow the first part of the Faraglioni hike, above, to the Belvedere Tragara.
    • Also see Grotta Azzurra, Monte Solaro, Villa Jovis, and Faro (above and below).  Look for the "Isola di Capri Walks" map; some of the walks are described on this page.
  • Villa San Michele - Roman sculptures dot Swedish doctor Axel Munthe's 20th century estate near Anacapri with stunning views (€5, 9-5, www.sanmichele.org), which hosts concerts in the summer.
  • San Michele Church - in Anacapri, has cool majolica floor depicting the expulsion from Paradise.
  • Faro (Punta Carena) - on the far southwest corner of the island, a place to get away from it all and enjoy the sunset.  Free and private beaches, pool, and small restaurants nearby.  Can reach it from Anacapri's Piazza del Cimitero bus stop.  Also the start of the Sentiero dei Fortini (Fortress Walk), a relatively flat, uncrowded, 3 hr walk past 5 ruined coastal forts and water access at Punta Campetiello to Punta dell'Arcera (near the Blue Grotto).
  • Shopping - both Capri and Anacapri have an embarrassment of designer brands and cute, cheesy Capri souvenirs.
  • Wine - Carla Capalbo recommends the Vinicola Tiberio winery in Anacapri, via Trieste e Trento 28, 081-837-1261, www.tiberiocapri.it
  • Nightlife - Especially in the summer, Capri is known for its jet-setting, party-all-night atmosphere.  Underground at via Orlandi 259 in Anacapri and BaraOnda at via Roma 8 in Capri are recommended by Let's Go.  Capri town's Piazetta becomes a beautiful, less-crowded place to have a passagiata (leisurely stroll) at night.

Where to Stay 

  • Bussola di Hermes - via Traversa La Vigna 14, 081-838-2010, Anacapri, Let's Go calls it "by far the best budget lodging on the island"; 8% discount if you mention Let's Go on phone/email reservation
  • Casa per Ferie Villa Helios - church-run former convent recommended by Rick Steves, via Croce 4 at top of Capri town, 081-837-0240, €70-90 singles, €120-170 doubles.
  • Da Gelsomina alla Migliara - restaurant in Anacapri rents rooms (see listing below), has pool, €75-115 singles, €115-185 doubles, includes breakfast, €30 for extra bed.
  • Villa Mimosa Bed and Breakfast - Via Nuova del Faro 48A, Anacapri, 081-837-1752, nice garden/terraces, all rooms with bath & A/C, doubles €70-100, rec'd by Let's Go.
  • Senaria Hotel - Via Follicara 6, Anacapri, 081-837-3222; small hotel with high ceilings, all rooms with bath & A/C, has WiFi, doubles €100-170, rec'd by Let's Go.
  • Bar Due Pini Residence - Piazza Vittoria 3, Anacapri, 081-837-1404, small hotel with large rooms, most including kitchenette, all rooms with bath & A/C, WiFi with fee, doubles €90-135 and triples €170-180, rec'd by Let's Go.
  • Hotel Quattro Stagioni - Via Marina Piccola 1, Capri, 081-837-0041, simple rooms, breakfast and A/C included, singles €40-70 and doubles €70-130, rec'd by Let's Go.
  • Villa Palomba - Via Mulo 3 (near Marina Piccola), Capri, 081-837-7322, homey with nice patio/garden, WiFi, breakfast and bath included, A/C €10 extra, singles €45-65, doubles €80-130, rec'd by Let's Go (who say it's "[p]ossibly the best deal on the island if you can manage the slight trek to get here").
  • Hotel Il Portico - Via Truglio 1C, between Marina Grande and Capri town, 338-182-8700, A/C, doubles €80-160, triples €140-190, rec'd by Let's Go (who say it "offers the reliability of a hotel and the feel of a bed and breakfast").
  • Hotel La Tosca - Via Dalmazio Birago 5, overloking Faraglioni, Capri, 081-837-0989, rooms include bath and A/C, breakfast included, doubles €70-140, rec'd by Let's Go.
  • Casa Malua - apartments near the Capri Piazetta; depending on which one you get and the season, is €120-340, rec'd by simonseeks guide.

Where to Eat - Anacapri

Anacapri is a little bit less touristy than Capri, so the prices are not quite as crazy...but it can still be expensive.
  • ***Da Gelsomina (alla Migliara) - Via Migliara 72, 081-837-1499, 12-3, 8-10:30, closed Jan-Feb, Tues Oct-Dec and Mar-Apr, beautiful terrace with great food, ~€45-50 (but can get more expensive), also swimming pool and rent 5 rooms, rec'd by Carla Capalbo, Time Out, Rough Guide, Cadogan, MichelinTCIFodors, this blog, The Telegraph
  • ?? Trattoria il Solitario - via Orlandi 96, 081-837-1382, closed Wed and 2 months in winter, rec'd by Alice, Lonely PlanetTCI, Rough Guide (who call it a "family-run restaurant where the food is excellent", and especially recommend the spaghetti alle vongole), this blog said it was rec'd by their bus driver and they ate there twice!
  • Aumm Aumm Ristorante Pizzeria - this site says it's one of the best pizzerie on the island, and a good place to meet locals, also a bar that often has soccer games on, rec'd Rough Guide
  • Ristorante (Giorgio) Il Cucciolo - via La Fabbrica 52, nice view, fresh food including good ravioli caprese, 081-837-1917, 12-2:30, 7:30-11, closed Nov-Feb, rec'd by Let's Go (thumbs up), TCI, Fodors, Rough Guide (who say they'll pick you up at your lodging in Anacapri)
  • Ristorante Materita Bar-Pizzeria - via Orlandi 140, pizza at central piazza, also cheap primi/secondi, 081-837-3375, 11:45-3:30, 6:45-mid, closed Tues Nov-Mar, rec'd by Let's Go.
  • Vini e Bibite - Piazza Diaz, relatively inexpensive, 081-837-3320, rec'd by Let's Go.
  • La Rondinella - via G. Orlandi 295, Italian classics from various regions, 081-837-1223, 12-2:30, 7-11:30, ~€35-50, Let's Go, Frommer's, Michelin (although not anymore in 2018), TCI, Lonely Planet, Fodors
  • Le Arcate - via de Tommasso 24, unpretentious place, risotto con polpa di granchio rughetta e scaglie di parmigiano is a "show stopper" according to Lonely Planet, 081-837-3325, ~€28.
  • Trattoria da Giovanni a Gradola - Grotta Azzurra, Lonely Planet recommends parmigiana, fried fish, and pasta fagioli for lunch, ~€18, closed Nov-Mar.
  • Sciue' Sciue' (di Minopoli Raffaele) - roast meats, pastries, and pizzas, rec'd by Rough Guide "for when time is short and you need a pick-me-up", good reviews online
  • Bar Columbus - the upstairs part of the Anacapri chairlift, antipasti recommended by Rick Steves, via Caposcuro 8, 081-837-1441.
  • Da Antonio - caponata (a Sicilian dish, but the food police won't arrest you!) by the Faro (lighthouse), inexpensive
  • Gradola/Ristorante Da Giovanni - near Grotta Azzura, rec'd TCI
  • L'Angolo del Gusto - I couldn't find any professional reviews but it gets great reviews online (TripAdvisor, Google, Yelp), looks a bit fancy, people like the rabbit
  • La Taberna degli Amici - like L'Angolo del Gusto, no professional reviews but good reviews online
  • Ristorante La Zagara (at Casa Mariantonia Hotel) - somewhat pricey but seems like a nice lunch under lemon trees, also a wine bar / breakfast place; highly rated online (TripAdvisor, Google, Yelp, etc.)
  • Al Nido D'Oro - viale T. de Tommasso 32, on the way to Grotta Azzura bus stop, pizza and trattoria fare, good deals, 081-837-2148, 12:30-3:30, 7-11:30, ~€20, lunch €10 menu, rec'd by Let's Go (thumbs up), Time Out. --> CLOSED
  • Da Mama Giovanna - Via Ciusarano 4, 081-837-2057, closed Wed, small trattoria rec'd by Alice, ~€35-50. --> CLOSED
  • Not sure:
    • Ristorante Barbarossa - rec'd Fodors, mediocre reviews online
    • Caffe Orlandi - via Orlandi 83, €10 lunch menu is a good deal, 081-838-2138, 12-6, rec'd by Let's Go, mediocre reviews online
  • Fancy/expensive: 

Where to Eat - Capri

Capri is a tiny island with lots of rich tourists, so the prices are pretty high...that being said, some of the following options are economical if you don't want to splurge:
  • Lo Sfizio - via Tiberio 7, relatively cheap pizzeria/restaurant on the way to Villa Jovis, good fried zucchini and ravioli caprese, one of the few places open in the off-season, ~€25, 081-837-4128, rec'd Gillian's Lists, Lonely Planet
  • Michel'angelo - restaurant that this site rec's for inexpensive picnic take-away, also rec'd Gillian's Lists as a restaurant but also for picnics (and gluten-free pasta)
  • ? Ristorante Da Tonino - a bit expensive (meals for €40-70) but a good deal by Capri standards; highly rated by many including MichelinTCILuciano Pignataro, Golosario di Paolo Massobrio 2018 also see this food blog, popular on TripAdvisor
  • È Divino - rec'd Lonely Planet ("top choice"), TCI, apparently is a Slow Food-inspired place, this guy says "it hurts me to reveal what’s my best kept secret", also rec'd Gillian's Lists
  • Capri Pasta Gastronomia e Catering aka "Da Roberto" - popular spot for inexpensive take-away that you can eat on the beach, etc.
  • ? Cuccurullo Aldo aka "Salumeria da Aldo" - nice, famous grocery store on Marina Grande, this site rec's for inexpensive but tasty "Caprese" (Capri-style) sandwiches, very popular on TripAdvisor (was the #2 best restaurant in Capri in 2018)
  • Verginiello - via Lo Palazzo 25, views of Marina Grande, good ravioli caprese and steaks, also rooms for rent, ~€40, 081-837-0944, 12-3:30, 7:30-mid, closed Sun, Nov-mid Dec.  rec'd by Time Out, Lonely Planet, TCIthis site for inexpensive pizza and "one of the best price/quality ratios on the island"
  • Pescheria Le Botteghe - fresh fish & small plates at hole in the wall near the Piazzetta, rec'd Luciano Pignataro, good reviews on TripAdvisor and Google
  • Buca Di Bacco - hotel and restaurant, rec'd The TelegraphGillian's Lists and this site for inexpensive pizza
  • Ristorante Pizzeria Longano da Tarantino - via Longano, near Piazetta, 081-837-0187, 12-3:30, 7-mid, closed Wed, Dec-Feb; back in 2009 Let's Go said it's "possibly the best deal in town" with its €15 menu, pizzas and grilled seafood.
  • Ristorante La Capannina - not to be confused with Ischia restaurant of the same name, this is on Via le Botteghe 14, rec'd The Telegraph, TCI, Fodors, Lonely PlanetGiada de Laurentis
  • Capri Moon - via Marina Grande 88, close to Marina Grande, good fried antipasti, ravioli caprese, grilled fish, and torta caprese, 081-837-7953, closed Jan/Feb, rec'd by Carla Capalbo, Alice, TCI
  • La Cisterna - via M. Serafina 5, good traditional dishes from a trattoria owned by "larger-than-life Salvatore", 081-837-5620, ~€25, closed Feb, rec'd by Lonely Planet (not anymore in 2018), Frommer's (old review)
  • La Pigna - via Lo Palazzo 30, good fish, local favorites, €30-35, 081-837-0280, rec'd by Alice, TCI, same owner as Capri Moon
  • Al Grottino - via Longano 27, seafood and frittura, 081-837-0584, 12-3, 7-mid, closed Nov-Mar, rec'd by Frommer's, Fodors, Lonely Planet
  • La Palette - not far from Arco Naturale, nice views, rec'd TCI, TripAdvisor, Lonely Planet
  • Il Geranio - near Marina Piccola, rec'd TCI, Fodors, Lonely Planet ("top choice")
  • Villa Verde - highly rec'd by Rough Guide, and this blog closed most of winter
  • Ciro a Mare - beach/restaurant rec'd Gillian's Lists
  • Torre Saracena - beach/restaurant near Marina Piccola, rec'd Gillian's ListsGiada de Laurentis
  • La Fontelina - seaside restaurant and private beach club south of Capri town; some say the food is very good, this blog has description/photos, also rec'd here, here, Fodors
  • Ristorante La Piazzetta (da Gregorio) - rec'd Golosario di Paolo Massobrio 2018
  • Mister Billy - informal bar that among other things has Thai/Asian food (!)
  • (Ristorante) Pulalli Wine Bar - mostly a wine bar but also serves food, good reviews online (TripAdvisorGoogleYelp), rec'd The Telegraph and this blog
  • Restaurant Villa Jovis - not to be mistaken for the ruins of Villa Jovis, this restaurant is near the Piazzetta and has Roman-style decor; pretty good reviews on TripAdvisor and Google
  • Not sure:
    • L'Approdo - Piazza a Ferraro 7, near Marina Grande, locals like the pizzas, pasta and seafood a bit pricier, 081-837-8990, 12-4, 7:30-mid, closed Nov-Feb (?), ~€15, rec'd by Lonely PlanetTCI, Time Out, Alice, Rough Guide. --> some mediocre reviews online though, especially complaining about high prices?
    • Ristorante Al Caprì/Don Alfonso Cafe - rec'd Fodors but has mediocre reviews online
    • Le Camerelle - rec'd Fodors but has mediocre reviews online
    • Donna Rachele - rec'd Lonely Planet but has mediocre reviews online
    • Restaurant Scialapopolo All'Onda D'Oro - rec'd Lonely Planet but has mediocre reviews online
    • Ristorante "Da Peppino" - Marina Grande, €16 menu turistico is relatively good deal, 081-837-0344, Let's Go...mediocre reviews online
  • Fancy/expensive places:
  • La Savardina da Edoardo - via Lo Capo 8, towards Villa Jovis, relatively cheap place popular with locals, less seafood, 081-837-6300, 12-3, 7-11, closed Nov-mid Mar, Tues Mar-May and Sep-Oct, ~€25, rec'd by Time Out, Lonely Planet, Frommer's, Alice. --> CLOSED
  • Da Gemma - via Madre Serafina 6, pizzeria that also has good fish dishes and veranda, 081-837-0461, www.dagemma.com, 12-3, 7-mid, closed Nov-Mar, Mon Sep-Oct, ~€35, rec'd by Carla Capalbo, Time Out, Cadogan, Alice. --> CLOSED
  • Le Grottelle - via dell'Arco Naturale 13, just uphill from the Arco Naturale in stunning location partially inside a cave looking out on the ocean, good ravioli/scialatielli, fish, torta caprese, 081-837-5719, ~€35, closed Thurs, Nov-Mar, rec'd by Carla Capalbo, 2015 Repubblica, Time Out, Lonely Planet, Frommer's, Gambero Rosso, L'Espresso, Rough Guide, FodorsGolosario di Paolo Massobrio 2018Giada de Laurentisthis blog. --> we ate here in 2012 and it was pretty bad (rubbery mozzarella, etc.) but maybe it's better now??
  • Settanni - via Longano 5, family-run trattoria near Piazetta, 081-837-0105, ~€30, 12-3, 7-mid, closed Thu, Nov-Jan, rec'd by Time Out. --> CLOSED
  • La Pergola - via Traversa Lo Palazzo 2, a bit hard to find (follow the signs), Lonely Planet says it's "a step up from the average island trattoria" with good seafood and sea views from the terrace, ~€30 (Alice says €50-60??), 081-837-7412, 12:30-3, 7:30-11, closed W except high season, mid-Nov to Dec 25, also rec'd by Frommer's, Gambero Rosso, and Vertronelli. --> CLOSED
  • La Taverna di Pulcinella - via Tiberio 7, on the way to Villa Jovis, Lonely Planet calls their take-away pizzas "the best on the island," recommends the Vesuvio, waiters wear Pulcinella costumes, ~€20, pizzas ~€7, 081-837-5719, closed Nov-Mar. --> CLOSED
  • Gelato
    • Gelateria Buonocore - gelateria, good lemon/fruit, also pastries, via Vittorio Emanuele 35, 081-837-7826, 8 AM to mid, closed 11/4-3/15, rec'd by Carla Capalbo, Lonely Planet ("top choice"), TCI, Rough Guide, Giada de Laurentis
    • Gelateria Embassy - via Camerelle 16, rec'd TCI
    • ?? Il Gelato al Limone - Piazzetta Fontana 63 (near Marina Grande), makes gelato with organic lemons, rec'd Golosario di Paolo Massobrio 2016 (still in 2018) and Rough Guide
    • Chiosco Tizzano di Natalia e Antonio Tizzano - small granita/gelato shack rec'd by Tripadvisor folks
  • Deli: Macelleria da Michele - via Provinciale Marina Grande 26, rec'd Golosario di Paolo Massobrio 2016

Procida

The smallest of the Gulf of Naples islands and backdrop for much of the award-winning movie Il Postino (The Postman), Procida has a medieval castle and a cute town. See Stars & Stripes article.  For information on ferries, see the ferry section of the transportation page

What to See

  • Porta Marina Grande - main port on the north end that services most ferries, most busy
  • Marina Corricella - on the south end, where Il Postino was filmed, Pozzo Vecchio be
  • Terra Murata - highest point, old fort
  • Abbazia San Michele Arcangelo - abbey near Terra Murata
  • Vivara Nature Reserve - connected to Procida by a pedestrain footbridge
  • Beaches
    • Ciraccio - black-sand beach
    • L'Olmo / Chiaia Beach - rec'd Katie Parla for morning sun, good swimming
    • Pozzovecchio - on West end, so it has good afternoon sun

Where to Eat

  • Caracalè - Via Marina Corricella 62, rec'd by Espresso, Luciano PignataroScatti di Gusto for spaghetti ai ricci di mare and palamita con erbette (more info/photos here), Michelin
  • La Pergola - Via Rinaldi 37, in lemon grove, a bit more expensive, rec'd by Alice, Luciano Pignataro, most popular on ilmangione
  • Gorgonia - Marina Corricella 50, rec'd by Michelin and TCI
  • Scarabeo - Via Salette 10 (in Ciraccio), rec'd by Michelin
  • Sent' Cò - Via Roma 167 (in Marina Grande), rec'd by Espresso
  • Graziella - Marina Corricella, rec'd 2015 Repubblica
  • La Rotonda - street food rec'd 2015 Repubblica
  • La Conchiglia - rec'd by Luciano Pignataro, Katie Parla
  • Il Gazebo - rec'd by Luciano Pignataro
  • Girone - Katie Parla rec's the fish, also rec'd Scatti di Gusto for spaghetti ai ricci di mare and pizza (more info/photos here)
  • Not sure:
    • Crescenzo - Via Marina Chiaolella 33, rec'd by Alice, popular on ilmangione, but some locals don't like it
    • Borderò - Via Roma 82, rec'd by Alice ...might be closed as of 2016?
    • Fishbone - popular on ilmangione
...for other ideas, see Katie Parla's blog entry and the beautiful photos on this blog

Ischia

The largest island, Ischia has a number of good-sized towns, cute hillside hamlets, natural spas, and wonderful cuisine.  For information on ferries, see the ferry section of the transportation page.

What to Do

  • Castello Aragonese - climb to the top of this medieval fortress, with its stunning views and interesting exhibits, which was featured in the movie The Talented Mr. Ripley.
  • Monte Epomeo - there is a 30-45 min hike to the highest point on the island from the town of Fontana (which you can drive to or take the CS/CD bus)
  • Sant'Angelo - this fishing town in the south (40°41.8'N 13°53.6'E) is a nice stopoff point for boaters
  • Beaches - surround the island; among the most exciting is Sorgeto, just west of Sant'Angelo (40°41.95'N 13°52.7'E), which has hot springs bubbling up right next to the beach (don't miss Punta Chiarito, just up the stairs from the beach--see more below under "Where to Eat").
  • Spas - Ischia is known for its natural spas, which surround the island.  The most famous include Negombo.

Where to Eat

  • Ischia Porto and Ponte
    • Da Ciccio - Via Luigi Mazella 32, fish restaurant in Ponte, ~€25, 081-991-686, closed Nov, Tues Dec-May, rec'd by Time Out, Lonely Planet.  (There is also a bar with the same name at Via Porto 1, rec'd by Lonely Planet)
    • Oh Per Bacco - Via Luigi Mazella 20, Ischia Ponte, 081-991-354, closed Mon, wine bar with bruschette, salami, etc., €15-19 fixed price menus, rec'd by Time Out and Alice.
    • Pane e Vino - via Porto 24, 081-991-046, enoteca with good food, €15 lunch menu, ~€25-30 a la carte, rec'd by Alice.
    • Da Roberto - via Luigi Mazella 28, 081-98-2313, gelateria, rec'd by Lonely Planet.
    • La Pantera Rosa - Riva Destra, Ischia Porto, good prices, ~€28, 081-992-483, closed Dec-Mar, rec'd by Lonely Planet.
    • Da Cocò - piazale Aragonese, 081-981-823, Ischia Porto, traditional seafood, nice view, ~€35-40, closed Wed except high season, Jan-Feb, rec'd by Cadogan and Alice.
    • Da Gaetano - Via Mazzella 58, Ischia Porto, known for pizza but also has other food with good ingredients, 081-991-807, closed Wed, rec'd by Espresso and TCI.
    • Negombo - via San Montano, 081-986-152, associated with the famous spa, rec'd by Panorama.
    • La Brocca - via roma 24, Lacco Ameno, ~€17, 081-900-051, closed Nov-Dec, near the beach, family-run trattoria, rec'd by Lonely Planet.
    • Pirozzi, Via Seminario 51, Ischia Ponte, pizza, fried appetizers, also good pasta & fish, parmigiana, 081-991-121, closed Mon except high season, Dec, rec'd by Time Out, Cadogan.
    • Ciro e Caterina - via Luigi Mazzella 80, Ischia Ponte, cheap good food near castle, 081-993-122, rec'd by Cadogan.
    • La Capannina - via Campagnano 56, south of Ischia Ponte, 081-901-017, open Apr-Oct, traditional recipes such as grilled meats, Ischia rabbit, and pizza, ~€30-40, rec'd by Alice.
  • Forio and Casamicciola Terme
    • Il Focolare - via Cretaio al Crocifisso 3, 5 km outside of Casamicciola, 081-902-944, www.trattoriailfocolare.it, run by D'Ambra Family, ~€35, rec'd by Time Out, Panorama, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (still in 2016), Veronelli, Gambero Rosso, TCI, Mangiarozzo, and Espresso (!)
    • Bar Maria - Piazza Matteotti, in Forio, rec'd by Time Out.
    • Zi Carmella - Via Schioppa 27, Forio, ~€20, local favorites, €25 four-course set menu, other fixed price up to €55, 081-998-423, closed Nov-Mar, rec'd by Lonely Planet and Veronelli.
    • La Citarea - Via Mazzella 49, Forio, 081-907-225, open Apr-Oct, €20-25 fixed price or ~€35 a la carte, rec'd by Alice for various dishes including hunter-style rabbit.
    • Cave Gran Diavolo - Via Bocca 56, outside of Forio towards Anta Maria del Monte, more meat than fish, bucatini con sugo di coniglio, closed Wed except high season, only open weekends in winter, rec'd by Cadogan.
    • Da Peppina di Renato - via Montecorvo 42/via Bocca, on the way to Monte Epomeo near Forio, 081-998-312, "real" Ischia trattoria with sea views, special of the day is usually good, ~€30-35, dinner only, closed Jan-Feb and Wed except in high season, rec'd by Michelin, TCI, Mangiarozzo, and Time Out.
    • Montecorvo - via Montecorvo 33, 081-998-029, closed Mon except high season, €30-45 fixed price menus, also pizza, rec'd by Alice, 2015 Repubblica.
    • Epomeo - Piazza Pontone 7, Forio, closed Tues except high season, vegetarian options available, ~€25-40 depending on meat or fish selections, 081-997-207, rec'd by TCI.
    • Pietratorcia - via Provinciale Panza 267, 081-908-206, 081-907-232, southeast of Forio, enoteca with good local food, €25 meat and €35 seafood fixed-price, dinner only by reservation from April to October, also wine tasting/light lunch in the afternoon, rec'd by Time Out and Alice.
    • Da Leopoldo - via Scannella 28, in Panza near Forio, 081-907-086, beautiful view, great local food, especially fish, ~€35-40, dinner only (but groups 10 or larger can reserve lunch as well), rec'd by Michelin.
    • Il Vitigno - Via Bocca 31, Forio, 081-998-307, 329-857-6670, Pina and Leonardo create great things at their agriturismo, including olive bread and other homemade pastries, open Apr-Oct, dinner only, by reservation only, ~€25, rec'd by Michelin.
    • Il Melograno - Via Mazzella 110, Forio, 081-998-450, closed Mon in Oct, close Mon/Tues in Nov/Dec, somewhat more expensive (~€75/person, fixed price menus €55-80) but rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin, and TCI
    • Umberto a Mare - via Soccorso 2, Forio, open every day, expensive (€65/person), rec'd 2015 Repubblica
    • La Botte - wine place rec'd 2015 Repubblica
    • La Bottega del Pane d'Ischia - bread bakery rec'd 2015 Repubblica
  • South Coast and Sant'Angelo
    • ***Hotel Punta Chiarito - via Sorgeto 51 (just up the stairs from the Sorgeto natural hot springs beach), Panza, 40°41.96'N 13°52.74'E, 081-908-102, amazing view, nestled amongst Greek ruins, good daily specials based on what is fresh, home-made wine and olive oil, €30 fixed price, ~€35-40 a la carte, reservations recommended for dinner, rec'd by Alice, 2015 Repubblica.  The best bruschetta you'll ever have!
    • Conchiglia - via Chiaia delle Rose 3, Serrara Fontana, terrace overlooking harbor, rooms for rent, closed Nov-Mar, 081-999-270, rec'd by Cadogan.
    • Da Pasquale - via Sant'Angelo 79, popular with locals, cheap pizzas, closed Tues except high season, Nov-Mar, 081-904-208, www.dapasquale.it, rec'd by Cadogan, TCI, and Time Out.
    • Neptunus - via Chiaia di Rose 1, on a cliff with great view of Sant'Angelo, 081-999-702, good seafood and coniglio all'ischitana (notify in advance for this), rec'd by Time Out.
    • La Tavernetta del Pirata - via Sant'Angelo 77, 081-999-251, closed Jan and Wed during off-season, stays open late, seafood and appetizers, rec'd by Time Out.
    • Lo Scoglio - Via Cava Ruffano 58, Sant'Angelo, on cliff overlooking the sea, good seafood, mussels, 081-999-529, ~€28-35, closed mid-Nov to Mar, rec'd by Time Out, Michelin, and TCI.
    • Barano d'Ischia: Il Focolare - Via Cretajo al Crocefisso 3, closed Wed in winter, rec'd 2015 Repubblica
    • Pizzeria Don Enzo - rec'd Slow Food Planet
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