Sicily
With history and links to Greece, Rome, North Africa, and various other cultures (Norman, Holy Roman Empire, French, Italian...even American), Sicily offers rich historic treasures, beautiful beaches, spicy cuisine, and a relaxed pace of life.
Getting There
By car: From Naples, it is around 6 hours to drive to a town just north of Reggio di Calabria called Villa San Giovanni. There, you cross the Strait of Messina on a ferry with timetables listed here. The crossing takes about thirty minutes and costs €35+ (as of 2022, depending on when/whether you come back on the ferry) From there it is about 1 hour and 45 minutes to NAS Sigonella.
By ferry: From Naples you can take an overnight ferry to Palermo or Catania. See To Get Around page for ferry company websites from Naples. (Ferries from other destinations to Sicily can be found at www.cemar.it/dest/ferries_sicily.htm) Here are the major options from Naples:
SNAV/GNV leaves Naples for Palermo and vice versa once or twice a day, and accommodate cars as well as passengers. The "economy" beds are a 2-bed bunkroom, which is comfy but small; bring your own towels and shower shoes if you want to use the shower. Although there is a full-service cafeteria, the best value is to bring your own picnic dinner for the ferry (that's what the truck drivers do!). There's also a once-a-week ferry to Termini Imerese (a bit east of Palermo).
Tirrenia also leaves Naples for Palermo and vice versa once or twice a day, likewise accommodating both cars and solo passengers.
Siremar runs ferries from Naples to the Aeolian Islands and onward to Milazzo (on the north coast just west of Messina).
...if you don't mind going to Salerno (just south of Naples), both Grimaldi and Caronte/Cartour run ferries from there (to Palermo and Messina, respectively).
By plane: Prices for flights from Naples to Sicily can be rather expensive, in addition to the cost of having to rent a vehicle once there, but occasionally you can find good deals. Other options include flights from Rome and the occasional "Space-A" flight on U.S. military planes.
By train: various trains connect Naples and Caserta with cities in Sicily (Messina, Catania, Palermo, etc.). For example, there are both day and night trains from Naples to Messina (~6 hours) and Catania (~8 hours). Train cars go via ferry from Villa San Giovanni to Messina, so make sure you are in the correct car; you can read a description here.
East Coast
NAS Sigonella
This U.S. Naval Air Station can make a convenient, cheap "home base" to explore the East Coast of Sicily if you have access to it. The base is made up of three different installations: NAS I, NAS II, and a housing installation. To get your vehicle on base you will need to get a base pass from Pass & Id. Visit the base website for more information.
Catania
The largest, closest town to NAS Sigonella is fairly nice, and features Roman ruins and a Greek theater.
Mé Cumpari Turiddu - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Savia - Scatti di Gusto says they have one of the best cannoli in Siciliy...La Cucina Italiana agrees (and also says Verona & Bonvegna are good for take-away)
I Dolci di Nonna Vincenza - Fodors rec's various almond treats including cookies
Bar Pasticceria Pistorio - Dissapore named one of the top 25 granite in Italy
Caffè Europa - Dissapore named one of the top 25 granite in Italy
in Mascali (~40 min north on the coast from Catania, on the way to Taormina): La Vecchia Posta - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
in Milo (near Mascali but up on the slopes of Etna): 4 Archi - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
in Lentini (~35 min south): A Maidda - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
in Aci Castello (a suburb of Catania just to the N): Gente di Mare - rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
in Aci Trezza (to the north, on the way to Acireale): Eden Bar - Dissapore named one of the top 25 granite in Italy
in Acireale: Caffè Cipriani - Dissapore named one of the top 25 granite in Italy
Siracusa
A beautiful old town 1 hour south of Catania, Siracusa (or "Syracuse") features picturesque Ortigia island (including a Greek temple), archeological park with a Greek theater, and the "Ear of Dionysius"
Places to Eat:
???Latteria Mamma Iabica - on the mainland but not far from Ortigia, good TA/Google reviews, rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, looks fresh but unfussy, "km0" (locavore), fairly seafood-centric [GF??], dinner only except weekends, closed Mon
Osteria Sveva - rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, open every day for lunch & dinner
? Ristorante Porta Marina da Salvo Di Mario - 15th century building with very fresh, contemporary food, rec'd Michelin, open lunch & dinner, closed Mon
? Macallè Sicilian Bistrot - contemporary takes on traditional dishes, rec'd Elizabeth Minchilli, dinner only, closed Wed
Bar Condorelli - rec'd Elizabeth Minchilli for cookies and granita
Antica Giudecca - tavola calda/arancini place rec'd Elizabeth Minchilli
Apollonion - fish specialist rec'd Elizabeth Minchilli
Gutkowskino (at Hotel Gutkowski) - very short menu changes monthly, rec'd Elizabeth Minchilli
Fratelli Burgio - salumeria in/near the Ortigia market, organic ingredients, rec'd Katie Parla, Elizabeth Minchilli, Lonely Planet
Caseificio Borderi - fancy sandwich shop also in Ortigia market, rec'd Lonely Planet
Irma la Dolce - casual spot (mostly sandwiches?) with outstanding TA/Google reviews
SICULISH United Tastes of Sicily - pizzas, pastas, and other stuff at this hip spot with outstanding TA/Google reviews; they also have gluten free bread/burgers/sandwiches (not sure about pasta)
MOON Move Ortigia Out of Normality - vegan place popular on TA/Google, organic/biodynamic ingredients, rec'd Lonely Planet
Ristorante Don Camillo - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, not anymore as of 2021, but rec'd Michelin, Dissapore, a bit fancy
Al Mazarì - Trapani-style food, a bit haute cuisine, rec'd Michelin
Regina Lucia - somewhat fancy place in Piazza Duomo, rec'd Michelin
Cortile Spirito Santo - very modern place rec'd Michelin
Bar Kennedy - Dissapore named one of the top 25 granite in Italy
in Contrada Damma: Case Damma - rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Ristorante Retroscena - hip spot rec'd Lonely Planet
...Elizabeth Minchilli has more information, also see https://www.lonelyplanet.com/italy/sicily/syracuse/restaurants
Outside of Siracusa:
40 min S: Rosolini: U Sulicce'nti - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
50 min S near the southeastern tip of Sicily in Portopalo di Capo Passero
ViDi - rec'd Michelin
Scala - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Marzamemi: Taverna La Cialoma - rec'd Michelin, CN Traveller, and Katie Parla but gets lukewarm Google reviews?
Brucoli: Trattoria i Rizzari - rec'd Katie Parla but gets lukewarm Google reviews?
1.5 hours due West is Chiaramonte Gulfi, a town perched between 2000 and 3000 feet, sometimes called il Balcone di Sicilia ("The Balcony of Sicily") due to its panoramic views. Majore is a restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
...also check out Val di Noto, below
Val di Noto Baroque Towns
The Val di Noto (Noto Valley), ~1 hour SW of Siracusa, 1.5 SW of Catania, is an UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its towns' Baroque architecture.
Modica is an old mountain town known for its Sicilian Baroque buildings including the Cathedral of San Giorgio; they also make a particular kind of Mexican-like chocolate.
Antica Dolceria Bonajuto - most famous maker of Modica's particular chocolate; Scatti di Gusto says they have one of the best cannoli in Siciliy, Fodors also rec's chocolate and candied orange peel, also rec'd Elizabeth Minchilli
Ciomod - another chocolate manufacturer who lets you tour their factory
Taverno Nicastro - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Maria Fidone - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
La Rusticana - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Fattoria delle Torri - a little bit fancy, rec'd Michelin, Dissapore
Locanda del Colonello - fancier place rec'd Michelin
Accursio Ristorante - one Michelin star, Dissapore
Pasticceria Di Lorenzo - rec'd Fodors
Rosy Bar - Dissapore named one of the top 25 granite in Italy
Caffè Adamo - rec'd Katie Parla for granita/sweets
...south along the coast in Donnalucata is Il Consiglio di Sicilia, also rec'd Scatti di Gusto for cannoli
Ragusa is a neighboring hill town, and is the provincial capital
?? I Banchi - bakery & pastry shop that also offers contemporary versions of traditional dishes, rec'd Michelin, Elizabeth Minchilli, Katie Parla (although more for stuff on the counter than "the dishes that come out of the kitchen"), same chef as Ristorante Duomo
Il Duomo - very fancy 2 Michelin-star, Dissapore
Locanda Don Serafino - 1 Michelin star, Dissapore, Scatti di Gusto, also a fancy hotel
Cucina e Vino - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, not anymore in 2021
A' Rusticana - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, not anymore in 2021
Gelati DiVini - rec'd CN Traveller for interesting flavors (including wine gelato) and gelato in a brioche
Noto is the closest of the towns to the coast, about 30 min S of Siracusa
##Caffè Sicilia - chef Corrado Assenza was profiled on Netflix's Chef's Table; his shop is known for its seasonal granite along with other treats like brioche, torrone (nougat) and preserves, recommended by a bunch of places including Conde Nast Traveler
Caffe Costanzo (Dolceria Corrado Costanzo) - Via Silvio Spaventa 7, a bit in the shadow of Caffè Sicilia but good gelato including interesting flavors like rose, jasmine, and mandarin orange, rec'd Lonely Planet
Trattoria del Crocifisso da Baglieri aka "Ristorante Crocifisso" - rec'd Michelin, CN Traveller, Lonely Planet, il Golosario, Dissapore, Elizbeth Minchilli, and Katie Parla...tasting menus and a la carte, a bit fancy
La bottega del Dammuso aka "Ristorante Dammusso" - sister restaurant to Crocifisso, rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, il Golosario, Katie Parla says "...Dammuso TRIES SO HARD. It’s one of a growing number of wannabe contemporary spots that isn’t quite good enough but the wine list is great.", open every day, dinner only
Ristorante Manna Noto - a bit fancy, popular on TA/Google, rec'd CN Traveller, Lonely Planet
W Villadorata Country Restaurant - modern/contemporary/fancy place outside of town at a resort rec'd Michelin, Scatti di Gusto
Principe di Belludia - another gourmet/fancy place at a luxury resort outside of town, rec'd Michelin
CasaMatta Ristorante Pizzeria - popular on TA/Google
Gastro Matto - fresh/contemporary, popular on TA/Google
Cássaro Bistrot - looks fresh, a bit fancy, good TA/Google reviews, natural wines, rec'd Guardian, lunch & dinner, closed Sun
Anche gli Angeli - rec'd CN Traveller and Karen La Rosa, open year round, looks fun/playful
Putia del Coppo - street food / fried take-away, popular on TA/Google
Picnic - juice bar/casual eats, pretty good TA/Google
Ristorante Vicolo - looks nice/fresh, opened in 2021, popular TA/Google, closed Tues, near northern end of town
Ristorante Il Cantuccio - [temp closed?] rec'd Lonely Planet, CN Traveler
Vicari - fancy/haute cuisine place, rec'd Lonely Planet, il Golosario
Nachè - very good TA/Google reviews, fancy/haute cuisine
Trattoria al Buco - rec'd Scatti di Gusto in 2012
Orto di Santa Chiara - pizza place rec'd il Golosario (also associated with the nearby Modica di San Giovanni - Cantina con uso di Cucina)
Il Brillo Parlante - enoteca on the SE corner of town, very popular on Google/TA
Rosticceria Palermitana Arancina Planet - informal Palermo-style street food place popular on TA
Battimandorlo Ristorante - outside town, fancy, good Google/TA reviews
outside town near the Vendicari park: Ristorante il Datterino at Scilla Maris Hotel - rec'd il Golosario
outside town in Lido di Noto: Ristorante Baglio Siciliamo - good TA reviews
Scicli is yet another of the towns
La Grotta - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
gli AROMI - herb farm
Palazzolo Acreide is 40 min W of Siracusa in the Hyblean Mountains:
Trattoria del Gallo - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Lao Scrigno dei Sapori - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Andrea - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Taormina
Taormina is a touristy but beautiful seaside town between Messina and Catania, whose romantic scenery inspried D.H. Lawrence's Lady Chatterly's Lover. Apart from the beauty of the town and its views, the main "sight" is a Greek amphitheater overlooking Mount Etna, which still hosts summertime concerts (open 9-4 Nov-Feb, 9-sunset Mar-Oct). The town can get swamped by busloads of tourists during the day, so it is best experienced early or late. The town's main street, Corso Umberto I, is great for a passagiata (walk) or shopping.
Getting There: ~40 minutes by car from Messina, it can be frustrating to drive through Taormina itself, as all the streets are one way; if arriving by car, you might consider leaving the car in one of the parking lots (Lumbi or Catania) just outside town. A cable car leads you down to Taormina's beach. There is a train station (Taormina-Giardini) connected to the main town by shuttle busses (e.g. a 7 hour InterCity train from Naples costs only €19). There are also busses from Palermo, Catania, and Messina.
Tischi Toschi - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Bam Bar - La Cucina Italiana rec's their granita, and Dissapore named one of the top 25 granite in Italy
Naxos, an old Greek town, is just south of Taormina.
Castelmola (37°52′N 15°17′E) is a short drive, bus, or cab ride (~€15) up Mount Tauro, which boasts beautiful views (especially from the ruined castle at the top of the hill) and a curious bar called Turrisi, famous for its locally produced vino della mandorla (sweet almond wine) and its phallic decoration motif.
Mount Etna
Valle del Bove...also higher parts of Nicolosi, Linguaglossa, Belpasso, and Zafferana. Philosopher Tower (Empedocle)...Tenuta San Michele del Murgo, Giardini Naxos ...
Rifugio Sapienza: http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/campania/volcanoes.htm
Parco dell'Etna: http://www.parks.it/parco.etna/Eindex.html
town of Randazzo, on the north slope of Etna: San Giorgio e il Drago is restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, and Pasticceria Santo Musumeci Dissapore named one of the top 25 granite in Italy
Messina
Town near the shortest point between Calabria and Sicily; you can take a ferry between Messina and Villa San Giovanni on the mainland. Trains also come over via ferry. There are occasional talks of building a bridge ("Il Ponte") between the two, but it will probably never happen.
Mediterranima - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
(Antica Pasticceria) Irrera 1910 - Scatti di Gusto says they have one of the best cannoli in Sicily, Dissapore named one of the top 25 granite in Italy
Gelateria Graniteria Eden - Dissapore named one of the top 25 granite in Italy (their #4 pick)
in Sant'Alessio Siculo (between Messina and Taormina): Accabbanna - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
in Villa franca Tirrena (on North Coast, just W of Messina): Hostaria Disio - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
in Briga Marina (to the south): Bar de Luca - Dissapore named one of the top 25 granite in Italy
in Rometta Marea (to the north/west): Bar di Perri - Dissapore named one of the top 25 granite in Italy
in Santo Stefano di Briga: Bar de Stefano - Dissapore named one of the top 25 granite in Italy
North Coast
Palermo
Sicily's capital and largest city has the most activity (including great markets) and lots of history. Also a convenient embarkation/debarkation point for the Naples ferry (see above for details). The following are some sights in and around Palermo:
Sights
Walk around the Historic Center, including several markets (one of the best is Ballarò; see below), the "fountain of shame" (Fontana Pretoria) with its naked statues, some cool churches (such as la Martorana)
Kalsa is an old part of town with Arab roots, which was heavily bombed in World War II but still has interesting baroque churches (more info)
Ballarò market, a sprawling vegetable/fruit/seafood/household goods market which surpasses any you'll find in Naples. Centers on Piazza Carmine, every day but Sunday; most days it's open 9-7 except they close early (~2 PM) on Wednesdays.
I think we chanced upon the Fabbrica di Cannoli Figli Rosciglione cannoli factory, just outside of the market, but it might be closed now?
Capo market is also similar and worth checking out; NY Times rec's paying the small fee to see the inside of the Chiesa dell’Immacolata Concezione al Capo, which is sumptuously decorated
The Vucceria market isn't quite as interesting as the other two (Ballarò and Capo)
Palatine Chapel in the Palazzo Reale, studded with mosaics (if you like the Monreale cathedral, below, it's a similar style on a smaller scale)
Cappuccin Catacombs - freaky mummies on display.
If you're an opera buff (or you actually watched The Godfather Part III) you may want to check out the Teatro Massimo.
Places to Eat
## Osteria Mercede - just W of the Borgo Vecchio (note: in 2020 they moved to Via Sammartino 1), highly rec'd by Dissapore, good TA and Google reviews, also see this blog, the chef won a TV show "Cuochi d'Italia" in 2018
## Buatta Cucina Popolana - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (who recommend that sfinciuni, sardines "beccafico" or in bucatini, and "tenerumi" [squash green] soup), Scatti di Gusto, Michelin Bib Gourmand (who recommend the bucatini with sardines & fish involtini), fresh/innovative takes on local dishes, Golosario, MyArtGuides, Gambero Rosso
## Le Angeliche - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Lonely Planet, excellent Google/TA reviews, run by 4 women, interesting but simple preparations, everything is super-fresh
# Ristorante Quattro Mani - modern/fresh restaurant with good Google/TA reviews, ingredients are all local/organic, rec'd Katie Parla and TCI
# Osteria Ballarò - rec'd Scatti di Gusto, Lonely Planet, Gambero Rosso, fresh takes on Sicilian classics (including street food favorites) with local ingredients in a beautifully remodeled former stable
A'Nica - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, MyArtGuides, relatively innovative/modern Sicilian dishes and Neapolitan pizzas
Osteria dei Vespri - Michelin rec'd "modern dishes made from local ingredients", also rec'd Scatti di Gusto, MyArtGuides, Gambero Rosso
Trattoria Ai Cascinari - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Lonely Planet, TCI, Scatti di Gusto, NY Magazine, this chowhound for traditional version of timballo di anelletti, relatively old-school
Corona Trattoria - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Golosario, Scatti di Gusto, wins "most awkward name going into 2020" award :-) also rec'd NY Magazine for traditional version of pasta c'anciova, also see this blog
Dispensa Giuseppe Costa - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, MyArtGuides, Identita Golose, mix of formal & informal dishes (pastas & sandwiches) from a Michelin-star chef
Street food
'Nni Franco U'Vastiddaru - rec'd Katie Parla for pane ca meusa, also Lonely Planet, Dissapore, NY Magazine for fried stuff like pane con panelle, NY Times also rec's panelle, fritti misti, and pane ca' meusa)
(Friggitoria) Chiluzzo - also rec'd 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, NY Magazine, Lonely Planet, Dissapore
Pani câ Meusa Porta Carbone - rec'd Katie Parla and Dissapore for their eponymous dish and NY Magazine for pane con la milza
Antica Panelleria da Nino - rec'd in the 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Bar Vabres - rec'd in the 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Dainotti's Da Arianna - rec'd in the 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Il Panellaro di Ballarò - rec'd in the 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Panificio Guccione - rec'd in the 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
I Cuochini - NY Magazine rec's for crocchette di latte fritto (fried milk with flour & nutmeg), Lonely Planet also likes for savory snacks, as does MyArtGuides
Dissapore also has a Palermo street foot guide (in Italian)
...also check out Scatti di Gusto's guide to Palermo pizzerias (although they're missing the oft-recommended Frida Pizzeria)
I Cucci - modern bistro rec'd NY Magazine, Scatti di Gusto
Ristorante Ferro - restaurant run by 3 sisters, slightly modernized traditional dishes, unfussy but well-prepared, rec'd CN Traveler, Lonely Planet, MyArtGuides
Villa Costanza - up the hill so it has nice views and feels like a "getaway", pizza and other dishes use vegetables from their gardens, good Google/TA reviews
Sardina PastaBar - modern/fresh fusion food with emphasis on seafood, rec'd Scatti di Gusto, great Google/TA reviews
Seven Restaurant - beautiful views from the terrace of Hotel Ambasciatori, very accommodating of food allergies, rec'd Scatti di Gusto, MyArtGuides
BIGA Genio e Farina - high-quality pizza al taglio, outstanding TripAdvisor & Google reviews
Verdechiaro - vegan/locavore ("km 0") place, good TA/Google reviews
Ristorante Castello a Mare - near the water, a bit fancy mix between creative and traditional dishes, rec'd Michelin, Scatti di Gusto
Bioesserì Palermo - everything is organic at this relatively informal place (also has 2 locations in Milan), seems to me like "California cuisine meets Italian", rec'd Scatti di Gusto and Lonely Planet
Trattoria al Vecchio Club Rosanero - local's hangout / hole-in-the-wall with cheap but good food, rec'd Lonely Planet and TCI
Trattoria Bersagliere - working-class inexpensive old-school trattoria just outside the Ballarò market; this blogpost gives you a sense of what it's like; this local says it's "one of the last old trattorias in Palermo", great Google reviews
Moltivolti - Sicilian food but also Middle Eastern/African food (like baba ganoush, cous cous, and Senegalese maffè) in a co-working space, near Ballarò market, rec'd this blogpost and Gambero Rosso
Trattoria Old School da Anto - as the name implies, they serve pretty "old school" traditional dishes but they were only founded in 2018 and use seasonal ingredients; good Google/TA reviews g
Fancier/haute cuisine:
L'Ottava Nota - somewhat fancy/haute cuisine place on many lists including Scatti di Gusto, Michelin, ArrivalGuides
A'Cuncuma - fancier/expensive haute cuisine place, rec'd Michelin, Luciano Pignataro, ArrivalGuides
Bye Bye Blues - hip/fusion haute cuisine place rec'd Scatti di Gusto, female chef Patrizia di Benedetto, had Michelin star 2010-2020
Gagini Social Restaurant - fancier restaurant run by the same folks as Buatta and Aja Mola, rec'd Michelin, Gambero Rosso, Lonely Planet, TCI, MyArtGuides, this blog
Sesto Canto - a bit fancy/haute cuisine, good TA/Google reviews, rec'd this chowhound for local wine selection and "quality of the cooking"
Quattroventi Comfort Food - rec'd Scatti di Gusto, somewhat haute cuisine, very good Google/TA reviews
Aja Mola Trattoria di Mare - a bit fancy seafood, rec'd Lonely Planet, Gambero Rosso, good Google reviews, TA is more mixed though
Sobremesa Ristorantino - very good Google/TA reviews, rec'd MyArtGuides
Enotecas (wine bars)
CiCala - enoteca on Via Sant'Alessandro 29 rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Golosario
Bocum - hip enoteca with interesting fusion dishes and "mixology" drinks upstairs, rec'd Scatti di Gusto, Lonely Planet, Gambero Rosso, MyArtGuides, CN Traveler
Kiddikà - enoteca rec'd Scatti di Gusto
Ferramenta - enoteca rec'd Scatti di Gusto, MyArtGuides, Lonely Planet
Taverna dei Canti - hip enoteca, good TA/Google reviews
Enoteca Picone - rec'd CN Traveler, Fodor's calls it the "best wineshop in town", older place with a big wine selection but also a few fresh dishes with meats & cheeses, this site notes that they will help you pick wine based on your personality!
Vinoveritas Enoteca - rec'd CN Traveler, Wine Enthusiast
Taverna Celso - modern, not too expensive, rec'd MyArtGuides
Gelato
### Cappadonia Gelati - NY Magazine rec's for gelato and granita, "3 coni" award from Gelaterie d'Italia 2020, Golosario, high quality, opened in 2018
Latteria Gelati Cremosi - rec'd Golosario, pretty good Google reviews, Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Al Gelatone di Peppe Cuti - Gelaterie d'Italia 2020, Golosario, NY Times
Gelateria la Kala - Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Gelateria Al Cassaro - Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Il Signor di Carbognano - Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Pastries
Pasticceria Cappello - various sweets, rec'd Gambero Rosso in 2017, also Katie Parla, Lonely Planet, Golosario, NY Times (who recommend the chocolate/hazelnut torta setteveli), Dissapore liked their cannoli
I Segreti del Chiostro - great Google reviews, Scatti di Gusto has a whole article about all their various treats, also rec'd Lonely Planet
Pasticceria Josè - Dissapore's favorite cannoli, Scatti di Gusto also rec's
Pasticceria Costa - one of Dissapore's favorite cannoli, rec'd MyArtGuides
Antico Caffe Spinnato - Dissapore liked their cannoli
Pasticceria Massaro - rec'd Katie Parla, especially for sette velli
Pasticceria Oscar 1965 - rec'd Katie Parla for cassata
Casa Stagnitta - various treats (granita, gelato, pastries) rec'd Katie Parla
Cioccolateria Lorenzo - yes, chocolates, but also cakes and other baked goods, rec'd Lonely Planet, MyArtGuides
I Peccatucci di Mamma Andrea - various sweet jams and marzipan creations, rec'd Fodors
Meats and Cheeses: Drogheria di Buongusto, rec'd Scatti di Gusto, CN Traveler, Golosario
were recommended at one point, not as sure anymore:
Piccolo Napoli - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, CN Traveler, Fodors, Katie Parla...BUT both TA and Google reviews are mediocre?
Il Maestro del Brodo - seafood restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia...but not anymore in 2021, although rec'd Gambero Rosso
Trattoria Romano - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia...but not anymore in 2021
Antichi Sapori Palermitani - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia...but not anymore in 2021
[Antica Focacceria San Francesco is no longer in the Osterie d'Italia and Katie Parla really doesn't like them]
[Zia Pina is rec'd by various people but they get pretty mediocre Google/TA reviews]
Around Palermo
Monreale - just outside of Palermo on the slopes of Mount Caputo, hosts a splendid Norman cathedral featuring beautiful mosaics and arab-inspired courtyard.
Katie Parla rec's pastry shops Cappello and Massaro near the AST bus stop on Via Calatafimi (which leads to Monreale)
Cave paintings - at Niscemi's Cave and Addaura Cavern near Mount Pellegrino.
Segesta Greek ruins (see West Coast, below) - roughly an hour's drive away
Mondello - beach / beach town just north of Palermo (there are even buses that connect them)
Meat Shop Macelleria & Fornelli - butcher shop near the beach that also serves cooked meats, good Google/TA reviews
Badalamenti Cucina e Bottega - NY Magazine for innovative version of timballo di anelletti (if you call ahead, it's off-menu)
Alle Terrazze - beautiful place built on top of the water, rec'd Scatti di Gusto for outdoor dining
Baretto di Vincenzo Schiillaci - Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Bar Galatea di Lo Monaco Giuseppe - Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Gelateria La Vela - between Mondello & Palermo, Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
in Termini Imerese: Donna Sasà - rec'd 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, informal/take-away place
East of Palermo (~half an hour drive) on the coast is Bagheria and Santa Flavia:
Trattoria Buttita - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, nice, simply-prepared seafood
Trattoria Don Ciccio - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Dissapore, retro atmosphere, fresh ingredients
Agriturismo Villa Cefalà - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia...but not anymore in 2021
I Pupi - one Michelin star, featured on "Searching for Italy with Stanley Tucci" (especially for spaghetti alla bottarga)
Inland S of Monreale:
Piana degli Albanesi - Antica Trattoria San Giovanni is restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
...the town is known for its cannoli (including La Casa del Cannolo, rec'd Scatti di Gusto, who also recommend Extra Bar, Pasticceria Kalinika, and Bar Pasticceria di Noto), interesting Albanian heritage, and giant artificial lake
further south in San Giuseppe Jato: Z'Alia Di Ciccia Anna is restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (but not anymore in 2021)
Salemi - town on "Borghi piu belli d'Italia" list, ~1.5 hours S of Palermo
Turismo rurale Al Ciliegio - rural place just outside town with simple but fresh-looking food, great Google reviews
U Tocco - bar/enoteca with small plates, highly reviewed on Google
Sambuca di Sicilia - also on "Borghi piu belli d'Italia" list, ~1 hour S of Palermo
Pane e Radici - very simple preparations, great Google reviews
Caltabellotta - ~1.75 hours S of Palermo, has Ristorante Mates with great Google reviews
Futher east and slightly inland is the beautiful hill town of Caccamo, with a big castle; A Castellana is restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
West of Palermo
in Cinisi / Terrasini (very close to Palermo, near the airport):
Pasticceria Palazzolo - rec'd Scatti di Gusto
Dolci Meraviglie - outstanding TA/Google reviews
Le Terrazze Di Magaggiari - rec'd Scatti di Gusto
Assèttati ristorante Terrasini - looks pretty good, very good TA/Google reviews
Kalos ristorante - pretty fancy, very good TA/Google reviews
Il Bavaglino di Giuseppe Costa - one Michelin star, CN Traveler, Dissapore
Scopello (part of Castellemmare del Golfo, known for its Pane Cunzato sandwiches) is in the "Riserva dello Zingaro", a beautiful park, with beach coves, hiking trails, and nature
NY Magazine rec's grabbing a pane cunzato at Forno di Stabile ed Anselmo
Katie Parla rec's staying at Tonnara di Scopello, a scenic spot by the water
Scatti di Gusto says there is a Scopello grocery store called "da Peppe" where they make nice tuna sandwiches
Ristorante Al Burgo - rec'd by this blogger, looks pretty nice
I Sapori Sicilian Grill - outstanding Google/TripAdvisor reviews, looks like a place for meat lovers
L'Antico Granaio - popular on Google/TripAdvisor, looks very fresh
Ristorante La Cialoma - bright, breezy, vaguely hippie place that looks nice, good Google/TripAdvisor reviews
Made 'n Sicilia - inexpensive Sicilian favorites, good Google/TripAdvisor reviews
Bar La Sorgente - known for Cassatelle
San Vito lo Capo - roughly an hour's drive away, has a beautiful seaside area with a park and famous couscous festival
Al Ritrovo - restaurant rec'd by 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Golosario
Gna' Sara - rec'd Michelin
Profumi del Cous Cous - rec'd Michelin
Scatti di Gusto rec's Caffè Pino for snacks
Enoteca Randazzo - rec'd Golosario
Gelateria Belli Freschi - rec'd Golosario
Gelateria la Sirenetta - rec'd Golosario
Pocho - hotel and restaurant a little ways outside town, rec'd Dissapore
Syrah Ristorantino - was in 2014 Slow Food guide but not anymore as of 2021
Gelateria la Sirenetta - Dissapore named one of the top 25 granite in Italy
In Alcamo (south of Castellammare del Golfo): Agriturismo Tarantola - a beautiful-looking place known for sfincione, also run cooking classes
Cefalù
Beautiful seaside town halfway between Messina (1.75 hours by car) and Palermo (1 hour by car), Cefalù also has a Norman-Arab-Byzantine cathedral (whose interior is gilded with mosaics not unlike—although a bit smaller than—the cathedral in Monreale), medieval castle, and Greek ruins. Rick Steves' favorite town in Sicily. About 30 minutes away, towards Catania is Rick's favorite agriturismo, Il Vecchio Frantoio; one couple said they had "probably the best meal we've had in Italy" there.
Places to Eat in Cefalù
inland is Castelbuono, which has (as the name implies) a big, "good", 14th century castle; also see 15th century church Matrice Vecchia; Romitaggio San Guglielmo and Nangalarruni are restaurants rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Palazzacio - Michelin Bib Gourmand
Fiasconaro - very highly rated pastry shop, rec'd Golosario, Lonely Planet
Nangalarruni - rec'd Golosario
Collesano is also inland; Casale Drinzi is restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Isnello, also inland: La Brace is restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
further inland is Castellana Sicula; Vinvito is restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
similar is Polizzi Generosa, Itria is restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
waay inland is 14th century hill town Gangi; Villa Rainò is restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Petralia Soprana and Sottana are nearby; Da Salvatore and Petrae Lejum are restaurants in each town, respectively, rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Hill towns nearby on the "Borghi piu belli d'italia" list (along with Gangi, above, Forbes called them "Sicily's Best-Kept Secret"):
Petralia Soprana
Geraci Siculo
Enna
Actually in Central Sicily, this hill town is one of the highest in Sicily, on the main highway from Palermo to Catania. It boasts some fantastic views, especially form near its medieval castle. (About 1.5 hours from Palermo, 1 hour from Catania.)
La Rustica - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
nearby in Caltanissetta (~40 min from Enna): Vicolo Duomo al Collegio restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
nearby in San Cataldo (~45 min from Enna, ~40 min from Agrigento): Anzalone restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Banafranca:
Capo Tindari
45 minutes west of Messina, this town features the ruins of the Roman town Tyndaris.
further west and inland is Galati Mamertino:
Fattoria Fabio is restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
nearby in Longi: Vinebrio and Portella Gazzana are restaurants rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
nearby in San Salvatore di Fitalia: La Vedetta dei Nebrodi is restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
also west, not as far inland is Naso: La Perla is restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
similar area is San Marco d'Alunzio, on "Borghi piu belli d'Italia" list
inland on road between Taormina and Capo Tindari: Novara di Sicilia, La Pineta is restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
way inland is San Piero Patti: Da Luciana is restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
inland in Sinagra: Fratelli Borrello is restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
South Coast
Agrigento
The most splendid Greek temples are in this town on the Southern Coast. While the town itself sprawls a bit, it has a cool, medieval center. A cheap hotel near the center is Bella Napoli, which offers comfortable rooms but not very much hot water (when we stayed in January 2010, our rooms ran out of hot water after only a few minutes of running the shower!).
Aguglia Persa - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Caico - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Ginger People & Food - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Le Boccerie - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Terracotta - restaurant rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Around Agrigento
inland ~30 minutes in Castrofilippo (contrada Torre): Osteria del Cacciatore - rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Licata - little town 45 minutes down the coast East of Agrigento; Oasi Osteria del Mare rec'd 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
inland at Campobello di Licata: La Madonnina - rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
on road from Palermo to Agrigento:
Bivona: Da Calogero - rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
San Giovanni Gemini: La Tavernetta da Rosario - rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Villa Romana del Casale - Roman villa with splendid mosaics, see Rick Steves video clip; halfway between Catania and Agrigento (about 1.5 hours from Agrigento) near the town of Piazza Armerina
Castelvetrano
Home of the famous green olives, about 1.5 hours S of Palermo, 1.4 hours W of Agrigento, and 45 min E of Marsala.
Trattoria da Giovanni - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, not anymore as of 2021, good TA/Google reviews
Ristorante Nerocento - just outside town ~16 minutes in Partanna, very good Google/TA reviews, pretty modern place
Selinunte - Greek ruin site just outside Castelvetrano. Less extensive than Agrigento, but more rural/scenic.
Area near Castelvetrano
Sciacca - town 40 min E down the coast from Castelveltrano, or 1 hour W of Agrigento
Cappellino - rec'd 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Bar Roma - Dissapore named one of the top 25 granite in Italy (their #2 pick)
1 hour inland in Caltabellotta: M.A.T.E.S is rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Scala dei Turchi - "Stairway of the Turks", a popular rock formation on the water
West Coast and Islands
Trapani
A whitewashed coastal town and provincial capital of western Sicily; it's the main embarkation point for the Egadi Islands (see below); nearby Erice is a nice hill town with a cable car (funvia) that connects it to the Trapani outskirts. Trapani is also known for its naturally-produced sea salt, a bit like Italy's answer to France's fleur de sel.
Cantina Siciliana - rec'd 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Scatti di Gusto, informal place but with high quality food
'A NASSA Seafood (2nd website) - newer, fun-looking place, looks like they do good fried seafood with small plate/tapas style, very popular on Google/TripAdvisor
Serriso 47 - rec'd Michelin, somewhat upscale/haute cuisine
Sapurito - street food / informal stuff, very popular on Google/TripAdvisor
210 Grammi Ristorante Laboratorio - looks like a cool spot, slightly fancy versions of classics, modern, rec'd Golosario and Lonely Planet
Trattoria del Corso - fresh-looking food, looks nice, rec'd 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Caupona Taverna di Sicilia - rec'd 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, and Lonely Planet, looks simple but fresh, known for couscous
Osteria La Dolce Vita - rec'd 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, a ways outside the centro storico, looks nice, simple but fresh preparations
Al Solito Posto - rec'd 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Lonely Planet, looks pretty simple, a little ways outside the centro storico
La Bettolaccia - was rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia but not anymore as of 2021, rec'd Frommers, Lonely Planet (one of their top picks)
Tramura Ristorante Pub - informal place on the water with fresh-looking dishes, rec'd Lonely Planet
Ai Lumi Tavernetta - restaurant with hotel rec'd Lonely Planet and Frommers
Ristorante Tentazioni di Gusto - contemporary place rec'd Lonely Planet
Osteria il Moro - a bit fancier/haute cuisine, rec'd Lonely Planet
Gelato, Bread, and Pastries
Pasticceria Colicchia - Scatti di Gusto rec's their cannoli, as does La Cucina Italiana, Dissapore named one of the top 25 granite in Italy, Google/TripAdvisor less enthusiastic
Gelateria Gino - rec'd Golosario
Gelateria Liparoti - good Google/TripAdvisor reviews
Angelino Pasticcere - rec'd Golosario, features both savory and sweet things like aracine (rice balls) and cassata; also a restaurant
Forno Giuseppe "Peppe" Martinez - bread bakery that uses organic ingredients, good Google & TripAdvisor reviews, also Gambero Rosso
Panificio A Maidda (Pietro Cardillo) - won an award from Gambero Rosso for bread
Forno Impero - rec'd Golosario, cookies and other baked goods
Bernardo le delizie del porto - good Google & TripAdvisor reviews
Antico forno Pollina (dal 1893) - great Google reviews
Pasticceria La Rinascente Di Giovanni Costadura - great Google & TripAdvisor reviews, rec'd Lonely Planet
Il Dolce Angolo Michele Mineo - also great Google & TripAdvisor reviews, rec'd Lonely Planet
Bazar del Miele - store with 15 varieties of local honey (plus other local food products) rec'd Fodors
Efri Bar - pastry shop well outside the centro storico, outstanding Google & TripAdvisor reviews
...also in Dattilo (see below, on the road between Palermo and Trapani) is Eurobar, thought by some to be the best cannoli in all of Sicily
in Erice (just outside Trapani...maybe also check out the Castello di Venere?)
# Pasticceria Maria Grammatico - Arianna Occhipinti especially rec's the Genovesi, Italy Magazine has more, also rec'd Fodors, Frommers, Lonely Planet, Gambero Rosso, Scatti di Gusto says they also have some of the best cannoli in Siciliy
Pasticceria San Carlo and Antica Pasticceria del Convento (the former is rec'd Frommers, the latter is run by Maria Grammatico's sister and rec'd Fodors) also have their fans on TripAdvisor/Google ("this is where Jesus goes for cannoli" says one reviewer!)
# Il Frutto della Passione Ristorante - great Google/TripAdvisor reviews, looks like a new/fresh place with interesting vegetables
? Hotel & Restaurant Elimo - rec'd Golosario, also has gluten-free and vegetarian options, has panoramic terrace, also a hotel, looks very nice!
? Il Galletto Ericino - newer place, somewhat modern takes on traditional dishes, looks nice, great Google & TripAdvisor reviews
Ristorante Monte San Giuliano - rec'd Michelin, Frommers, Loney Planet (although they say "quality tends to be hit-or-miss."), looks nice, good Google reviews although TripAdvisor more mixed
La Tonda Fritta - arancine (rice ball) take-away place popular on Google & TripAdvisor, opened 2016
Gli Archi di San Carlo - nice looking place with simple dishes, rec'd 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Golosario, popular on Google/TripAdvisor
La Pentolaccia - rec'd Frommers and this blogger
Gelateria Liparoti - looks like the best gelateria in Erice, pretty good Google/TripAdvisor reviews
...Erice is also known for ceramics; Fodors rec's Ceramica Ericina
Ristorante Piccolo Borgo - in Paceco (just South of Trapani), rec'd 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, slightly fancy versions of Sicilian classics
Agriturismo Vultaggio - rec'd 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia and Gambero Rosso, in Contrada Misiliscemi south of Trapani, has a pool & kid's play area, prepares rustic but fresh food
Nubia = town just south, near the salt fields
Life Risto Bar Tabacchi - looks good?
Gustobeats blog has nice photos & a brief guide to Trapani
Other West Sicilian Towns
Segesta, about half an hour from Trapani, has a Greek Doric temple and a Greek theater (with a beautiful view). Some recommend hiking trails such as the Contrada Mango.
Marsala is the westernmost town in "mainland" Sicily, and famous for its sweet eponymous wine. The "saline di marsala" to the north feature windmills and salt farms.
# Morsi & Sorsi ...di Sicilia - rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, enoteca, looks new, small plates/tapas
# Assud - Cibo da Strada - sandwiches and arancini (rice balls), popular Google & TA, rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
# Ciacco Putia Gourmet - rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Lonely Planet, looks intriguing, good Google/TA
# Le Lumie Ristorante - a little ways northeast of town, rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, but not anymore in 2021, seems slightly upscale but very nice, rec'd Dissapore, Scatti di Gusto, Gambero Rosso
? Osteria Il Gallo e'L'innamorata - rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Lonely Planet, slightly innovative takes on local favorites
? La Corte dei Mangioni Marsala - looks like a nice spot, rec'd Golosario, popular on Google & TA
Taverna Quarant8 - what looks like very freshly-prepared seafood, very popular on Google & TA
Quimera - sandwiches and meat/cheese boards along with craft beers, popular on Google & TA, rec'd Lonely Planet
Salumeria La Vecchia (di Maggio Angela Maria) - another sandwich & meat/cheese place popular on Google & TA
Osteria Siciliando - slightly upscale, popular Google & TA
Le Caserie Ristorante - cute spot, also a hotel, good Google/TA
I Bucanieri - nice-looking seafood restaurant on water rec'd Dissapore
Antica Trattoria da Pino - rec'd in 2021 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, old-school place with a buffet and other traditional dishes
Trattoria Garibaldi - rec'd Golosario but mediocre TA/Google, old-school place
Pasticceria Dolce Tentazione - rec'd TCI, good TA/Google, known for cannoli
Bar Gelateria Romeo - good Google/TA
south of Marsala in Mazara del Vallo: Borgo del Mazzaro - rec'd Golosario
area north of Marsala:
# Assud Mozia Trattoria Pizzeria Km0 - good Google/TA reviews, locavore near the water, looks nice, part of the Assud mini-chain rec'd by Slow Food
? MammaColette Home Restaurant - place that rents rooms (and offers massages?) and what looks like nice home-cooking style meals, great Google & TA reviews
[also see Le Lumie, above]
Dattilo - home to Eurobar (Euro Bar), which supposedly has amazing cannoli according to David Lebovitz, Golosario, and Scatti di Gusto
...and see San Vito lo Capo, above, around half an hour away from Trapani, on the north coast (between Trapani and Palermo)
...also see Castelvetrano, above, is closer to the South Coast but in the province of Trapani
Islands
Sicily is surrounded by beautiful islands:
Isole Eolie (Aeolian Islands) - a chain of islands north of Messina, including Lipari, Salina, Volcano, and beautiful Stromboli with its active volcano. Stromboli in particular is a great place for couples--a bit like Italy's Hawai'i. You can reach these islands directly from Naples via ferry.
on Salina
in Leni: Villa Carla is restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
in Santa Marina Salina:
'A Cannata is restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Alfredo - Dissapore named one of the top 25 granite in Italy (their #3 pick)
on Lipari: Le Macine - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Isole Egadi (Aegadian Islands) - west of Trapani, including Favignana, Levanzo, and Marettimo
the Cala Dogana between Levanzo and Favagnana is beautiful, with clear turquoise water
on Favignana: La Bettola - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Golosario; Bar del Corso is known for cassatelle
on Marettimo: Il Veliero - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (known for Pasta chî sàrdi)
Pelagie Islands - Lampedusa, Linosa, and Lampione, between Malta and Tunisia
Pantelleria - a bit further west, near Tunisia
Zinedi, La Vela, and La Favorotta - restaurants rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Parco dei Sesi - agriturismo rated by CN Traveler as one of the best farmstays in Europe (!)
Ustica - north of Palermo
Da Umberto - restaurant rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Lampedusa - well south of Agrigento, famous for being the closer to Africa than Europe, this has sadly been the place of a bunch of immigration controversies and tragedies; restaurant Da Bernardo rec'd in 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Other Resources
Best of Sicily is a great webpage introduction to Sicily, including information about Sicilian Wine
Frommer's Sicily Page - includes some excerpts from their guidebook
Rick Steves Page on Sicily - it's not covered in his books, but Rick has some interesting articles online
Lonely Planet Sicily Page - has some small excerpts from their book (although it has some bad reviews online, suggesting that the Rough Guide or especially Blue Guide are better)
The Stone Boudoir - not so much a guidebook as a memoir about exploring small towns in Sicily
Midnight in Sicily - interesting book on the mafia in Sicily