Milan

Milan (Milan) is the 2nd largest city in Italy and its business, fashion, and banking capital, bustling with the classy buzz of modern Italy. Although much of its history was lost to bombing in World War II, it has a handful of historic streets, and still preserves two amazing masterpieces: the Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper fresco and the Milan Cathedral. It's also a great "home base" to exploring the beautiful Lake District and the rest of northern Italy. (In the same way that Pulcinella represents Naples, Meneghino represents Milan: an honest, just, sincere servant)

Sights

• Leonardo da Vinci's "The Last Supper" - Book online early for this (in high seasons it often sells out 2 months in advance!), €8 per ticket...only 25 people at a time get to view it for 15 minutes to protect it from humidity. No tickets online? You have four options:
  • Call 029-280-0360 or 028-942-1146; occasionally people cancel and it's not reflected on the website
  • Show up when they open at 8:30 to see if last-minute tickets are available
  • Book at tour with www.lastsuppertickets.com (pretty good ratings), www.autostradale.it or www.zaniviaggi.it, both of which include a visit (both are ~3-3.5 hrs, €50-60)...similarly, tickitaly.com offers a shorter tour including Sforza castle for €32
  • Lastsuppertickets.com also essentially scalps the tickets and sells them for €29 within 4 days in advance, although they also include an English-speaking guide
• Duomo (Cathedral) - the largest church in Italy after St. Peter's, this huge Gothic cathedral built over 500 years is impressive, but the best part is the view from the roof, where you can get a closer look at the Madonnina (the statue at the top, a symbol for the city). The nearby museum is supposed to be good, and offers a combo ticket with the roof elevator.
• La Scala - watch a show at Europe's most famous opera house, the Teatro della Scala, or at least get a peek at the stage when you check out their museum
• Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II - similar to Naples' Galleria Umberto, this fancy glass-covered shopping area, called il Salotto di Milano (Milan's living room), is what every mall wishes it were. Highlights include the mosaics (with weird spinning-on-wolf's-testicle traditions) and old school Bar Zucca (near the Duomo), where Verdi once hung out.
  • Need a bathroom? Nearby La Rinascente has bathrooms (and a fancy food court) on its top floor, with nice views of the Duomo
• Centro Storico - Some cool things to check out are via Speronari --> Peck (deli on via Spadari 9) --> San Satiro --> P. dei Mercanti (old Medieval center of city) --> San Alessandro's Baroque splendor -> S. Sepolcro's roman ruins
• Sforza Caslte (Castello Sforzesco) - a cool castle NW of the Duomo, contains 12 museums, the most famous of which is for Ancient Art (Arte Antica), whose highlight is an unfinished Michelangelo Pietà. Nearby is the Branca Tower (Torre Branca), which offers a good view of the city.
• Brera Gallery (Pinacoteca di Brera) - Milan's most impressive art gallery, mostly older (18th century and before) paintings, situated above an art school
• Ambrosiana - W of the Duomo, this gallery has Raffaele's drawings of The School of Athens and Leonardo's Codex Atlanticus drawings.
• Navigli: a few of Milan's old canals are still preserved in this hipster district; check out vicolo Lavandai, Antica Porta Ticinese, and San Lorenzo's Roman columns
• Shopping: The "Golden Rectangle" of streets just NE of the Duomo are known for being the "home stores" of the top designer brands
  • Matia's Fashion Outlet - north of Brera District, (the main branch at Piazza Carlo Mirabello 4 is for adults, and the one at Via Eugenio Balzan 2 is for babies/young kids), we found some great deals here! (it's a bit like an Italian Ross)
• Nightlife: Brera (near the art school) and Navigli (the canal district) are apparently the places to hang out

Restaurants/Food

*** = highly recommended

• City Center (Centro Storico/Duomo, Brera, Quadrilatero/Montenapoleone)
  • Trattoria Bottiglieria da Pino - via Cerva 14 (E of Duomo, just S of San Babila), 027-600-0532, informal, old-fashioned place, known for risotto, bollito, and homemade desserts, only €15 fixed price!, lunch only, closed Sun, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia (still in 2014), Reid's Italy...Luke went here in 2011 and wasn't super-impressed
  • Trattoria Milanese - via San Marta 11 (just W of Duomo), 028-646-1991, traditional restaurant with very characteristic/romantic setting, risotto alla Milanese is served every 30 minutes, ossobucco and costoletta Milanese also rec'd, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Rick Steve's, Frommer's, and Time Out...Luke went here in 2011 and wasn't super-impressed
  • Papà Francesco - via Marino 7 (near la Scala), 028-621-77, no not "Pope Francis" (Papa Francesco) but "Daddy Francis" (Papà Francesco, note the accent) although this restaurant benefited from great SEO when the pope was announced, rec'd by Time Out, Michelin, TCI, CHs, this blog rec's the steak
  • Pescheria Da Claudio - Time Out, seafood
  • L'Antico Ristorante Boeucc - fancy/high-end place for very traditional Milan food (it's the oldest restaurant in town, founded in 1696), looks like something from Downton Abbey, rec'd Lonely Planet, La Repubblica, Corriere della Sera, Dissapore says they have the best Nervetti in Insalata (salad of veal's knee cartilage) in town (!)
  • (?)La Brisa - Via Brisa 15 (near Archeological Museum, W of Duomo and S of Sforza Castle), closed Sun lunch, Sat fresh, otherwise 12:45-2:30 and 7:45-10:30, seasonal cuisine in romantic setting (including outdoor dining in the summer), closed until Feburary 1, 2016, rec'd Michelin, Lonely Planet ("top choice"), Flawless Milano
  • Ristorante Cracco(-Peck) - Via Victor Hugo 4 (near Duomo), very fancy/expensive haute cuisine by celebrity chef, Time Out, Slow Food, 2 Michelin Stars
  • Jarit - Piazza Santo Stefano 10 (S of Duomo), interesting selection of food served in jars, can either take-away/delivery or eat in, rec'd Scatti di Gusto, Gambero Rosso, Dissapore
  • Il Priscio - Via Santa Tecla 5 (S of Duomo), cheap/quick fried panzerotti (like calzones/turnovers) rec'd by Scatti di Gusto
• La Vecchia Latteria - Via dell'Unione 6 (Just S of Duomo), vegetarian restaurant rec'd by Elizabeth Minchilli, Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants, Fodors
  • ?Spazio Milano - Piazza del Duomo 25 (3rd floor of Mercato del Duomo), open every day from 12:30-2:30 and 7:30-10, Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants, Dissapore (although they thought the chicken was somewhat underdone)
  • Peck - food emporium, good for picnic lunches, etc., Time Out
  • Ristorante Giacomo Arengario - Piazza del Duomo 12 (in Museo del Novecento), great view, based on Tuscan food, rec'd Condé Nast
  • Montenapoleone
    • Chic & Go Milano - Via Bigli, 20 (Montenapoleone), fancy sandwiches, take away/delivery, rec'd Fodors
    • Paper Moon - Via Bagutta 1 (near San Babila metro), ho-hum chain but Fodors rec's as one of the few restaurants in the Montenapoleone district
    • Il Salumaio di via Montenapoleone - rec'd Corriere della Sera
    • Cova Gelateria - rec'd Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants, Condé Nast Traveller
  • Brera
    • ??Fiori Chiari Plates - Via Fiori Chiari 13, closed Mon, creative, fresh cooking; small, seasonal menu, rec'd Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants, Honestcooking.it, Milano Today, this blog, TasteandTravelMilano
    • ?Antica Osteria Stendhal - Via Ancona 1 (Brera district, just N of Pinacoteca/Chiesa S. Marco) open every day ~12-2:30/7-11:30, 19th century Parisian bistro atmosphere with garden seating in the summer, Corriere della Sera says they have one of the best risottos in town, also one of their Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants, rec'd Misiedo, TCI, Milano Today, Stay.com
    • ?Osteria dei Poeti - Corso Garibaldi 40 (Brera district, between Moscova & Lanza metros), closed Sat lunch, Sun, open until 10:30, inexpensive, handwritten menu, Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants, The Big Food, Sauce Milan (although they warn that their toilet is an old-school hole in the floor), 2night.it, a CH
    • ?Timè - via San Marco 5, closed Sat lunch, Sun, otherwise 12:30-2:30 and 7:30-10:30, vegetarian options, modern, Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants, Michelin
    • Ristorante il Cestino - Via Madonnina, 27 (Brera), open until midnight?
    • Nabucco - traditional pan-Italian & Milanese, kitchen open until 11:30 PM, TCI rec's for homemade pasta, romantic location, rec'd a CH
    • La Libera - Via Palermo, 21 (Brera district, between Moscova & Lanza metros), rec'd Fodors, Corriere della Sera
    • La Vecchia Lira - Largo la Foppa 5 (Brera district, Moscova metro), rec'd Puntarella Rossa Pappa Milano 2015
    • La Latteria di San Marco - Via S. Marco, 24 (Brera district, between Moscova & Lanza metros), closed Sun, last seating is ~9:30-10 PM, lively, traditional Milanese, husband & wife run it, no reservations, short menu, rec'd Lonely Planet, Bon Appetit, Corriere della Sera (which is across the street?), homestyle feel, Lucky Peach, Reid's Italy, Time Out, this blog raves about it but it doesn't look that special
    • Torre di Pisa - via Fiori Chiari 21, TCI says you must have a reservation for this Tuscan-specialty place, rec'd Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants
    • Rigolo - Largo Treves & Via Solferino, 11 (Brera district, N of Pinacoteca/Chiesa S. Marco), info@rigolo.it, closed Mon, open 12-2:30 and 7:30-11:30, Tuscan food with a few Milanese dishes, family-run and cozy, Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants, Petit Futé, Condé Nast Traveller, this blog
    • G. Cova & C - Via Cusani 10 (near Cairoli metro), pastry shop with some hot food, rec'd Corriere della Sera
    • Rovello 18 - via Tivoli 2 rec'd Michelin
    • Emilia e Carlo - Address via Sacchi 8, Michelin rec's for "creative contemporary cuisine"
    • I Salentini - Via Solferino 44, closed Monday, Pugliese food from the Salento region, Scatti di Gusto complains that it's expensive, Eat It Milano --> not bad Salento food (like burrata and fava bean/chicory dishes), probably the best we've had outside Puglia
    • Tiramisu Delishoes - Via Formentini 2 (Brera district), open 9-1 am, closed Mon, yes that's right you can buy shoes and have tiramisu (and other dishes like cotoletta with onion gelato) in the same store, rec'd Scatti di Gusto, Dissapore --> alas, closed!
    • (Pisacco - via Solferino 48, closed Mon, otherwise open 12-3 and 7-1, chef Andrea Berton opened this trendy spot in 2013, Michelin Bib Gourmand 2016, Flawless Milano, Via dei Gourmet, check out the arty decor on this blog, it's a "cool" spot that was the place to be during Fashion Week 2013 --> NOT recommended: in 2016 had lukewarm/not very flavorful risotto, uninteresting burger with lots of mayonnaise, and staff made a lot of people wait unnecessarily)
    • [branch of Obicà mozzarella bar, Il Kaimano pizza napoletana (rec'd Corriere della Sera), Sibilla pizza napoletana (C d.ll Sera), Farage Cioccolati (also C d.ll Sera), Rossi e Grassi salumeria/gastronomia (C d.ll Sera), Parma & Co salumeria parmigiana (C d.ll Sera), chocolate shop Guido Gobino (C d.ll Sera), Odilla Chocolat (C d.ll Sera), Ranieri pasticceria (C d.ll Sera)]
    • Gelaterie
      • Amorino (Corriere della Sera)
      • Toldo (Corriere della Sera)
      • Puro & Bio / Dolce Bio - Via della Moscova, 13 (near Turati metro), Corriere della Sera
• North of City Center/Near Central Train Station (Centrale, Buenos Aires, Porta Nuova/Garibaldi)
  • ***Ratanà - Via de Castillia Gaetano 28 (NE of Piazza Garibaldi, near NM2 bus or Gioia metro [line 2, 11 min], in a park-like setting), open every day 12:30-2:30, 7:30-11:30, apperitivo is 6:30-8:30, 028-712-8855, rec'd by 2014 & 2016 Slow Food Osterie d'italia, Michelin --> we went in 2016 and had delicious risotto alla milanese and osso bucco; spinach risotto and radicchio appetizer were amazing, too.
  • Antica Trattoria della Pesa - viale Pasubio 10 (18 min walk, near Porta Nuova/Centro Direzionale/Piazza Garibaldi), closed Sun, otherwise ~12:30-2:30/7:30-11, Time Out says it has the best Milanese food in town, especially funghi porcini pasta and costoletta alla Milanese (don't put lemon on the veal!). Also rec'd by Lonely Planet (they say try the zabaglione), Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants, Dissapore says their Cassoeula is the best in town...also see blog review...a bit more expensive
    • [there's a different place called La Pesa at via Fantoni 26, E/TCI]
  • ?Trattoria Mirta - Piazza San Materno 12 (Casoretto neighborhood, near Pasteur metro, north of Città Studi, 11 min walk from Piola metro, ~30 min), closed Sat & Sun, 02 9118 0496, Espresso, Michelin, Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants, Scatti di Gusto, Osterie d'Italia, still in 2014 and 2016...in 2016 was named one of the "best osterie in Lombardia"
  • Ristorante Mimmo - Via Giuseppe Sirtori 34 (above Casa Dondup store, near Porta Venezia, 16 min), closed Sun lunch, otherwise 12:30-2:30 / 8-11:30, fancy pan-Italian food with some Milanese dishes, rec'd Corriere della Sera,
  • Ceresio 7 - Via Ceresio 7 (near Garibaldi/Cimiterio Monumentale), rooftop pool/bar/restaurant with great view of Milan, created by Dsquared2 designers, good apperativi, the "hip" place to be, rec'd New York Times, Michelin, Lonely Planet
  • Osteria del Treno - via San Gregorio 46 (just S of train station between Centrale & Repubblica), 026-700-479, closed lunch on weekends, M-F 12:30-14:30 and every day 8-mid, very old-school Lombardian traditions, dancing on Sundays, ~€35-40, rec'd by Gambero Rosso (in 2015 they won "3 shrimps", the highest award for trattorias), Lonely Planet, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (still in 2014 & 2016), Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano, Espresso...Luke went here in 2011, not bad
  • Ditirambo - Via Garigliano 12 (N of Piazza Garibaldi), GR/E
  • Gianni e Dorina - Via Guglielmo Pepe, 38 (NW of Piazza Garibaldi), GR/E/TCI
  • ?Da Abele Trattoria - Via Temperanza 5 (4 km NE of center, NE of Centrale near Pasteur subway, 20 min), middle-class neighborhood restaurant that serves mostly locals, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, TCI, Frommer's, Dissapore as one of the top 5 trattorias in Milan, "best risotto in town, no tourists" says a friend
  • Ristorante Berton - Via Mike Bongiorno 13 (near Repubblica metro), fancy/expensive haute cuisine place founded by former chef at Trussardi alla Scala, lots of broth, can order a la carte or €120 tasting menu, rec'd Lonely Planet, Gambero Rosso (gave it 90 points), 1 Michelin star
  • Ristorante Testina - Via Abbadesse 19 (just W of Centrale train station), seems pretty "old school", Puntarella Rossa review, Dissapore says they have the best yellow risotto in town
  • Manna - Piazzale Governo Provvisorio 6 (near Turro metro, NE of Centrale), rec'd GR/E/TCI, supposedly good Cassoeula
• Bocciofila Caccialanza - via Padova 91(near Rovereto metro, NE of Centrale), rec'd by Dissapore as one of the top 5 trattorias in Milan
• Ristorante L'Essenziale - Via Carlo Maria Maggi 6 (N of Parco Sempione), Dissapore says their Costoletta alla Milanese is the best in town
  • Osteria dei Vecchi Sapori - Via Francesco Carmagnola, 3 (just N of Garibaldi train station), rec'd Fodors
  • Osteria Opera Prima - via Paolo Lomazzo 29 (N of Sforza/Sempione), Michelin Bib Gourmand 2016
  • La Cantina di Manuela - via Procaccini 41 (N of Sforza/Sempione), Michelin Bib Gourmand 2016
• East of City Center (Porta Vittoria, Città Studi...)
  • Trattoria del Nuovo Macello - Via Cesare Lombroso, 20 (E of viale Umbria, near Porta Vittoria train station/Tram 12 [38 min on tram 12]), closed Sat lunch, Sun, otherwise 12-2:15, 8-10:30, rec'd by GR/E/MIC/TCI, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2016, Lonely Planet (esp their cotoletta), Michelin, Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants, Puntarella Rossa rec's their cotoletta, can be expensive but Dissapore points out their weekday lunch is a good deal and says their Mondeghili (Milan-style meatballs) are the best in town --> we went in 2016, it was probably the best "traditional" Milanese restaurant we tried, although we realized we didn't like the most traditional style
  • ?La Cucina dei Frigoriferi Milanesi - Via Piranesi Giovanni Battista 10 (near Porta Vittoria, Tram 27, a little further from Tram 12, ~30-40 min), closed Sat lunch, Sun, new venture by owners of Nuovo Macello restaurant, fresh, changing menu, very innovative (almost Cal-Italian), choose only the number of dishes (1-3), Dissapore names as one of its "top 10 quality/price restaurants", Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants, Scatti di Gusto
  • Masuelli San Marco - viale Umbria 80 (E of center, S of Parco Largo Marinai d'Italia and Viale Corsica), 025-518-4138, old-school place specializing in meat dishes from Piedmont to Lombardy, order the risotto alla Milanese and you get a souvenir plate, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin, TCI, and Time Out; ~€40-45 not including wine.
  • Al Bacco - Via Marcona 1 (near Porta Vittoria) 02 5412 1637, closed Sat lunch, Sun, Slow Food Osterie d"italia (still in 2014 & 2016)/E
  • Globe - top floor of COIN building at Piazza 5 giornate (near Porta Vittoria), 1GR/E/MIC
  • Al Less - Viale Lombardia 28 (Piola metro, Città Studi), Dissapore says they have the best Trippa in Umido in town
• South of City Center (Navigli, Porta Romana...)
  • ***Taglio - Via Vigevano 10 (near Naviglio Grande and Porta Genova metro, ~13 min), 02 3653 4294, M-F 8-mid, Sat/Sun 8:30-mid, reserve ahead, food emporium and restaurant rec'd by the New York Times (they liked the risotto milanese with marrow/almonds/pine nuts), Puntarella Rossa, Where Milan, Scatti di Gusto, this site rec's their breakfast as well --> in 2016 had delicious cooked egg with cheese, cream, and mushrooms; divine risotto with creamy sauce, thyme, and spicy Calabrian peppers; and outstanding, tender pork belly with crispy skin, served with parsnip puree and braised radicchio
  • ***Un Posto a Milano - Via Privata Cuccagna 2 (near Lodi/Porta Romana Metro or Tram #16, beyond Porta Romana, Metro line 3 = 24 min...a little bit of a schlep but not too hard to get to), 02-545-7785, closed Mon, otherwise open 10 - 1 am, locavore place associated with the Cascina Cuccagna farmhouse/hostel, rec'd by the New York Times, Lonely Planet, Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants, Michelin, Gambero Rosso (in 2015 they won "3 shrimps", the highest award for trattorias) --> we went there in 2016, it's very hippie/granola but nice (a bit northern California) with very fresh vegetables; creative takes on traditional dishes like “ossobuco with polenta” with polenta chips and ossobuco mousse.
  • ### Erba Brusca - Alzaia Naviglio Pavese 286 (~5 km south of the city center but reachable by Tram 3 or Abbiategrasso metro, nice walk along the canal, ~30 min), closed Mon/Tues, on Wed evening is live music, 02 8738 0711, has its own vegetable garden, fixed price meals for €32 and €45 at dinner, same owner as Ratanà, rec'd by 2014 & 2016 Slow Food Osterie d'italia, Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants, Flawless Milano ...we almost ate there but their power went out that night!
  • ??Trattoria Trippa - Via Giorgio Vasari 3 (near Porta Romana metro, ~19 min), 327-668-7908, 023-674-1134, info@trippamilano.it, closed Sun, dinner only 7:30 - 11:30 PM, a bit "hipster" version of traditional classics, menu changes daily, named one of the "best new Milan restaurants in 2015" by Sauce Milan, great blog/review (in Italian) from Scatti di Gusto, Dissapore (who also listed it as one of their "top 10 quality/price restaurants"), although this blog wasn't impressed
• ?Zucca e Melone - Via Gian Giacomo Mora 3 (near San Lorenzo Maggiore, almost to Navigli, S. Ambrogio is closest metro, ~14 min, or Tram 2 ~20 min), closed Sun, fresh Lombardy food with a crazily-painted country house feel, rec'd by a CH, this blog, New York Times, Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants, Scatti di Gusto (although they have mixed reviews of their pizza)
  • ?Osteria Grand Hotel - via Cardinale Ascanio Sforza 75 (a ways south of Porta Ticinese, near Romolo metro ~20 min), dinner only except Sunday also lunch, closed Mon, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (not in 2014 but again in 2016), Espresso, Reid's Italy
  • ?Osteria dell'Acquabella - Via San Rocco, 11 (near Porta Romana metro, SE of center, ~20 min), 02 5830 9653, closed Mon/Sat lunch, Sun, otherwise 12-3/7:30-1:30 (1 AM on Saturday), rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (still in 2014 & 2016)
  • ?La Bettola di Piero - Via Orti 17 (SW of Duomo, between Crocetta and Porta Romana metros, ~20 min), 025-518-4947, closed Sun, homestyle Milanese favorites, rec'd by 2014 Slow Food Osterie d'italia 2016, Lonely Planet, Condé Nast Traveller, Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants, TCI, Puntarella Rossa Pappa Milano 2015, this site has nice photos of their puntarelle and riso al salto
  • Ponte Rosso - Ripa di Porta Ticinese 23 (also a bit south, near Porta Ticinese), 028-373-132, closed Sun dinner, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (not anymore as of 2014, but in Slow Food app), Espresso, TCI, Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants
  • Trattoria del Pescatore - via Atto Vannucci 5 (near Porta Vigentina, SW of Porta Romana), 02 5832 0452, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (not anymore as of 2014)
  • Trattoria Madonnina - via Gentilino 6 (near porta Ticinese), 028-940-9089, closed Sun, down-to-earth, traditional food, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Michelin, and Time Out; ~€15-16 lunch and ~€25-30 including wine.
  • Rondine - via Spartaco 11, 025-518-4533, Time Out says this is "one of the zone's top trattorie" with good ravioli al burro tartufato and polenta.
• Osteria delle Vigne - Ripa di Porta Ticinese 61, 028-375-619 laid-back Slow Food place rec'd by Time Out/GR/E
  • Al Pont de Ferr - Ripa di Porta Ticinese 55 (near Porta Genova train/metro station and the Navigli), open every day, fancy place, 12th C building, fixed price menu options between €65 and €130, rec'd Michelin (used to have a star), Lonely Planet, Conde Nast Traveller, Scatti di Gusto, Slow Food
• Tano passami l'Olio - Via Villoresi 16 (Navigli), Time Out
  • El Brellin - Alzaia Naviglio Grande 14 (near Naviglio Grande), nice garden, traditional Milanese food, rec'd Lonely Planet, this blog
  • Trattoria Aurora - Via Savona 23, Reid's Italy says it's the "best deal in all of Milan"
  • Carlo e Camilla - Via Giuseppe Meda 24 (near Tram 3 / Navigli), celebrity chef Carlo Cracco opened this restaurant in a converted sawmill with interesting decor and communal tables, rec'd New York Times, Condé Nast, Scatti di Gusto likes their prices
  • Alice-Eataly Restaurant - Piazza XXV Aprile 10 (near Porta Garibaldi), fancy food focusing on (but not exclusively) seafood, rec'd this blog, 1 Michelin star,
• West of City Center
  • ?Tagiura - Via Tagiura 5 (4 km W of center, 15 min drive or ~25 min on bus 58 or 61), 02 4895 0613, rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (still in 2014 & 2016), TCI, Puntarella Rossa, Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants, Dissapore as one of the top 5 trattorias in Milan, fancy old-school setting, mix of Lombardia & Emilia Romagna, closed Sun, otherwise open for lunch most days, dinners are mostly Thurs/Friday, but also "extra hours" for dinner on some Saturdays/Wednesdays, tasting menu is €35, they're also a tavola calda, apparently also good apperitivo
    • Barabba - Via Belfiore, 15 (2.6 km W of center, near Wagner subway), Enoteca/Restaurant, rec'd by Gambero Rosso
    • Da Giacomino - Via Sant'Agnese 14, rec'd a CH
  • Fiore - Via Savona, 59 (3 km SW, near San Cristoforo), GR
• Well Outside of Town
  • Osteria alla Grande - Via delle Forze Armate 405, (in Baggio, 8 km W of center; ~20 min drive or ~40 min on NM1 bus, closest metro is Bisceglie but that's a ~30 min walk), country style, rustic & hearty, Slow Food Osterie d'italia (still in 2014 & 2016), Corriere della Sera Vivi Milano Top 100 Restaurants, Dissapore says it's one of the top 5 trattorias in Milan
    • Antica Trattoria Galeria - Via Arcangelo Corelli 27 (E of center, near ring highway, S6 goes here?), Dissapore names as one of its "top 10 quality/price restaurants" and says their ossobuco is the best in town
  • CristianMagri - Meriggia 3 in Settimo Milanese (W of Milan), on a lake, Michelin Bib Gourmand 2016
  • Other Italian Regional Cuisine - you can find great cuisine from many regions around Italy in Milan, since so many people come here to work
    • Calabria: Dongiò - via Corio 3 (SE, near Porta Romana), 025-511-372, closed Sat lunch and Sun, family restaurant specializes in Calabrian food, homemade pastas, good steaks, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin Bib Gourmand 2016, TCI, and Time Out; ~€25-35 including wine.
    • Rome: Giulio Pane e Ojo Osteria Romana (SE, near Porta Romana) - via Ludovico Muratori 10, 025-456-189, closed Sun, Roman food, reserve for one of the two seatings (8:30 and 10:30); rec'd by Espresso, Michelin, TCI, and Time Out, ~€10-15 lunch, ~€30 dinner.
    • Sicily: Trattoria da Ottimofiore - Via Bramante, 26 (North, NW of Moscova subway), Time Out, Sicilian food
    • Sicily: Antica Focacceria San Francesco - rec'd by the New York Times
    • Abruzzo: Da Giannino L'Angolo d'Abruzzo - Via Rosolino Pilo, 20 (NE of center near Città Studi, Porta Venezia metro) Time Out, Abruzzese, Corriere della Sera, Michelin Bib Gourmand 2016, Dissapore says it's one of the top 5 trattorias in Milan
    • Tuscany: Lucca - via Panfilo Castaldi 33 (NE, near Porta Venezia metro), 022-952-6668, Tuscan food, rec'd by Time Out and TCI.
  • Tuscan: Ristorante Alla Collina Pistoiese - Via Amedei 1 (S of Duomo near Missori metro), old-school Tuscan trattoria highly rec'd by Elizabeth Minchilli
    • Tuscan: il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia - rec'd Slow Food
    • Pugliese: Osteria di Mario - via Tadino 5 (NE, near Porta Venezia metro), rec'd Time Out for Pugliese food
    • Ligure: U Barba - Via Pier Candido Decembrio, 33 (SE, near Lodi metro), rec'd Fodors
  • Non-Italian Food - since Milan is so international, it's a great place for cucina etnica ("ethnic food")
    • Indian/Sri Lankan: Serendib - rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2016, Michelin Bib Gourmand 2016
    • Korean: Koshi Koba - rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2016
    • Greek: Mykonos - rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2016
    • Japanese: Osaka - rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2016
    • Middle Eastern: Re Salomone - rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2016
    • Indian: Shri Ganesh - rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2016
    • Chinese: La Collina d'Oro - rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2016
    • Eritrean: Asmara - rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2016
    • Chinese: Dim Sum - rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2016
    • Spanish: Don Juan - rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2016
    • Russian: Podkova - rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2016
    • Brazilian: Oficina do Sabor - rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2016
    • Greek: Accademia - rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2016
    • Japanese: Poporoya - rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2016
    • Mexican: Cueva Maya - rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2016
    • Middle Eastern: Carmel - rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2016
  • Gelaterie (also see Italian reviews from "Survive Milano" or GelamiGelati's "Search for the prefect gelato")
    • ***Gelato Giusto - Via San Gregorio 17 (between Corso Buenas Aires and Centrale train station), 022-951-0284, rec'd by Corriere della Sera, Gambero Rosso, and lots of other reviewers; I agree with dissapore that it's "probably the best gelateria in Milan"
  • ***Rivareno - Via Mercato 20 (in Brera...also a branch way S at Viale Col di Lana 8), rec'd in Golosario, Gambero Rosso; very nice, we liked it
    • ?Gelateria Sartori - Piazza Luigi di Savoia 1 (on E side of Centrale train station), rec'd by various bloggers, etc.
    • ?Officine del Gelato - New York Times rec's for natural flavors
    • ?La Bottega del Gelato - Via Giovan Battista Pergolesi 3 (off Corso Buenas Aires), Time Out rec's, flavors include pink grapefruit, avocado, and pine nut.
  • ?Il Massimo → Corso Sempione
    • Grom - M-Sat 12-11, Sun 7:30-11 pm, yes it's a chain but still some of the best gelato in town, there are 5 around the city including one near the Duomo/Scala/Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, and another near Navigli at the old Porta Ticinese
  • Gelato Ciacco - not bad, although not quite as good as Giusto (based on 2016 visit), rec'd golosario
    • Puro e Bio - locations at Via Moscova 13 and Viale Umbria 27; it’s a chain, but we really liked the chocolate (chocolatey, creamy, almost mousse-like, although I wasn’t a huge fan of the occasional chocolate chunk)
    • Ciocolattaliani - via San Raffaele 6 (just N of Duomo), guess what they specialize in?
    • Umberto - Piazza Cinque Giornate (Porta Romana), Time Out rec's, especially the "sumptuous dark chocolate"
    • Chocolat - via Boccacio 9 (just SW of Sforza castle, near Cadorna metro), Time Out rec's, as do other web reviewers
    • Gelateria Marghera - via Marghera 33 (Sant'Ambrogio), Time Out rec's especially the rum chocolate
  • Other resources: the Big Food
  • Other restaurants in various guidebooks:
    • La Piola Osteria con Cucina - GR
    • La Ratera - GR/E
    • La Scaletta - GR/E/TCI
    • Osteria della Cagnola - GR/MIC
    • Ostriche e Vino - GR
    • Piero e Pia - GR
    • Sarla - GR

Hotels

• Near Duomo/Center
  • Hotel Santa Marta - Via Santa Marta 4 (just S of Duomo), 028-04-567, www.hotel-santamarta.it, rec'd by Rick Steves
  • Hotel Vecchia Milano - Via Borromei 4 (a few blocks W of Duomo), 028-75-042 / 028-75-971, www.hotelvecchiamilan.com, rec'd by Let's Go and Rick Steves.
  • Hotel Aliseo - Corso Italia 6 (a few blocks S of Duomo), 028-645-0156, www.hotelaliseo.it, as cheap as €70/night, Let's Go says it has small beds and marble staircase, rec'd by Frommer's, mixed reviews online, available on Venere.com
• Near Centrale Train Station
  • "The Best" Hotel - Via Via Benedetto Marcello 83 (4 blocks SE of Centrale train station), 022-940-4757, www.thebesthotel.it, garden terrace, €50-85, paid WiFi available, rec'd by Rick Steves
  • Hotel Due Giardini - Via Benedetto Marcello 47 (4 blocks SE of Centrale train station), 022-952-1093, www.hotelduegiardini.it, rec'd by Frommer's
  • Hotel Valley - Via Soperga 19, (3 blocks N of train station, follow Lepetit as it turns into Soperga), 026-698-7252, www.hotelvalley.it, cheap (€35-80), free internet, rec'd by Rick Steves
  • Hotel Eva and Hotel Arno, Via Lazzaretto 17 (a few block S of Centrale train station, 4th floor, the two hotels share a reception desk), 026-706-093 or 026-705-509, www.hotelevamilano.com and www.hotelarno.com, free WiFi, €30-90, rec'd by Let's Go.
• Further Out:
  • Hotel Sabotino - Viale Sabotino 16 (near Porta Romana), 025-830-8797, www.hotelsabotino.com, cheap (€40-95), rec'd by Rick Steves.
  • Ostello la Cordata - Via Marco Burigozzo 11 (1 km south of Missori Metro), 025-830-3598, www.ostellimilano.it, rec'd by Rick Steves
  • Also see Let's Go's Milan Accomodations page for inexpensive options