Umbria

Because Umbria is the only Italian region that does not touch another country or the sea, it is referred to as the "Green Heart of Italy."  While less famous than its western neighbor, Tuscany, it features just as many beautiful hill towns, fantastic rustic yet refined food, pilgrimage sights, and quality wine (such as Sagrantino, its answer to Tuscany's Brunello).  Smartertravel.com's excellent description refers to Umbria as "Tuscany without the crowds."

Perugia

A university town and capital of Umbria, Perugia is also famous for its annual Eurochocolate and Umbria Jazz festivals.

Places to Eat

• Civico 25 - via della Viola 25, 075-571-6376, www.civico25.com, closed Sun, dinner only, not far from the center, seasonal Umbrian traditions, menu changes often, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso

• Stella Ristorante - Localita Casaglia, via dei Narcisi 47a, 075-692-0002, www.stellaristorantevineria.it, closed Tues, dinner only (except Sun), typical Umbrian cooking with creative influences, homemade pastas, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso

• Wine Bartolo Hosteria - via Bartolo 30, 075-571-6027, closed Wed, dinner only (except Sun), in an old underground wine cellar, convivial place with very traditional cuisine, pasta and bread made on the premises, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso.

• Altromondo - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia

• Osteria la Lumera - Corso Bersaglieri 22/26, 075-572-6181, www.lalumera.it, closed Mon, dinner only (lunch with group reservations), rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, in university quarter

• Giò Arte e Vini - rec'd by Gambero Rosso, TCI, also hotel, www.hotelgio.it

• Castello di Monterone (Strada Montevile 3, a ways E of town, 075-572-4214, www.castellomonterone.com) has two restaurants:

  • Gradale - rec'd by Gambero Rosso

  • Il Postale - fancy haute cuisine, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin (1 star), TCI

• L'Officina Circolo Culturale - www.l-officina.net, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso

• Osteria a Priori - www.osteriaapriori.it, rec'd by Gambero Rosso

• Osteria del Gambero - www.osteriadelgambero.it, rec'd by Mangiarozzo, Espresso, TCI

• Osteria Il Gufo - www.osteriailgufo.it rec'd by Mangiarozzo, Alice

• Trattoria del Borgo - rec'd by Mangiarozzo, Alice

• Pastry shop: Sandri, corso Vannucci 32, rec'd by Slow Food

• olive oil: Giovanni Batta - via San Girolamo 127, 075-572-4782, 335-817-6332, www.frantoiobatta.it

Towns near Perugia

• Todi (hill town with gorgeous view, 45 km/40 min S of Perugia, 40 min NE of Orvieto, 30 min off A1)

  • Pane e Vino - via Ciuffelli 33, 075-894-5448, near San Fortunato basilica, also rents 5 rooms, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2022

  • Roccafiore - Fior Fiore - Località Chioano (3 km outside Todi's historic center), beautiful view of the city, 075-894-2416, quality organic ingredients, often produced on site, 13 rooms for rent, pool

  • Agriturismo I Rossi - frazione Pesciano 42, 075-894-7079, 329-497-0325, www.irossi.com, rec'd by Mangiarozzo

  • Ristorante La Mulinella - località Pontenaia 29, 075-894-4779, rec'd by Mangiarozzo, TCI

  • Ristorante Rosa dei Venti - località Fiore 3c, 075-894-4647, 338-882-9214, rec'd by Mangiarozzo

  • Trattoria Cibbochi - Strada Provinciale di Pontemartino 67, 075-894-5425, 075-894-2949, www.trattoriacibocchitodi.com, rec'd by Mangiarozzo

  • Gelato: Bar Pianegiani - Corso Cavour 40, 075-894-2376, closed Mon, www.barpianegiani.it, Lonely Planet rec's the black cherry (spagnola) and hazelnut (nocciola) gelato

    • ...also check out Gran Caffe' di Foglietta on Piazza del Popolo?

  • olive oil (in Collevalenza): Frantoio La Casella

• Torgiano (hill town 15 km/18 min S of Perugia)

  • I Birbi - Localita Le Casacce Miralduolo di Torgiano, 075-988-9041, closed Mon, dinner only except weekends, in country farmhouse, rustic plates with Tuscan influences, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso

  • Le Tre Vaselle - Le Melograne - fancier place, rec'd Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin, TCI

  • olive oil: La Montagnola - www.lamontagnola.it

  • Wineries

    • Lungarotti - via Mario Angeloni 16, www.lungarotti.it ...also rec'd for olive oil

    • Terre Margaritelli - in località Miralduolo, www.terrremargaritelli.com

• Deruta (hill town known for its ceramics, 19 km / 20 min S of Perugia, near Tevere)

  • L'Antico Forziere - hotel/restaurant, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Michelin

  • Osteria il Borghetto - via Borgo Garibaldi 102, 075-972-4264, closed Sun, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Mangiarozzo

• San Feliciano in Magione (town on E shore of Lake Trasimeno, 22 km/22 min W of Perugia)

  • I Bonci - Lungo Lago Alicata Antonino 31, 075-847-9355, closed Mon, nice place with young, friendly staff, traditional dishes based on lake seafood

• Rossa di Sera - via F.lli Papini 79, 075-847-6277, closed Tues, dinner only except Sun, nice view of lake, lake seafood from the fishermen's cooperative, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso.

• Castiglione del Lago (town on outcropping on W side of Lake Trasimeno, beautiful view of lake, 48 km/38 min W of Perugia or ~30 min off A1 near border with Tuscany...ferries connect with other towns/islands on the lake)

  • L'Acquario - via Vittorio Emanuele 69, 075-965-2432, 335-608-0575, www.ristoranteacquario.it, closed Wed, rec'd Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Mangiarozzo

  • Vinolento - via Vittorio Emanuele 112, closed Wed lunch, Mon, rec'd Gambero Rosso, Espresso, TCI

  • Locanda della Mercanzia - via del Sccorso 9d, località Baldelli, 075-965-9552, 333-336-0682, 338-872-2488, www.locandamercanzia.it, closed Tues/Wed lunch, Mon, November, rec'd by Mangiarozzo

  • Gelato: Be Bop, viale Umbria 25, 075-951-988

  • Wineries

    • Duca della Corgna - via Roma 236, 075-965-2493, www.ducadellacorgna.it, Colli di Trasimeno "Baccio del Rosso" and "Gamay Divina Villa" are rec'd by Slow Food

• Panicale (medieval hill town 37 km/42 min SW of Perugia, ~30 min off A1 near Chiusi, S of Lake Trasimeno)

  • Lillo Tatini - Piazza Umberto I 13/14, 075-837-771, closed Mon, info@lillotatini.it, www.lillotatini.it, outside seating in summer, menu changes with the seasons, traditional regional dishes, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, TCI

  • nearby in Paciano: Ristorante Il Casale - www.ristoranteilcasale.it, rec'd by Mangiarozzo, Alice

• Città della Pieve (43 km/45 min SW of Perugia, just off A1 near Chiusi, ~30 min S of Castiglione del Lago)

  • Hotel Vannucci - Zafferano Ristorante Gourmet, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin

  • Locanda della Picca - enoteca/hotel/restaurant, Localita il Poggio 2/4, 057-829-9403, rec'd Gambero Rosso, TCI 

Orvieto

A beautiful, relatively large hill town that is conveniently located right on the highway and railway lines, Orvieto has wonderful history and sights, including its medieval duomo (cathedral), which has an amazing façade and some cool frescos inside.  Great for a quick weekend trip from Napoli or as a stopping point on your way to/from destinations further north.  See Rick Steve's Orvieto page and tv clip for a taste of what you'll see.

• Getting There - if you're driving (~3 hours from Naples), you can park in the free lot behind the train station and take the funicular up; otherwise, you can park in the upper pay lot and ride the free escalators/elevator up (a better option only if you're staying a few hours).  If you take the train (fast trains from Naples change in Rome and take 2.5-3 hours, while IC direct trains take about ~3.5 hours—since the IC are about half the price it's usually worthwhile to take those), just head up the funicular.

• Carta Unica Pass - if you're into sightseeing, consider this all-inclusive city pass: for a single fee (free for kids under 10), you get free admission to pretty much all of the city's museums (including all the cool "underground" tours and the great view from the top of the Toree del Moro) as well as a free ride up & down the funicular (or 5 hours in the upper parking lot).  The card is good for a year, so if you don't check out all the museums on your first visit, you can come back later.  If you get this card, it gives you an extra incentive to check out some of the lesser-known sites.  Check out the Carta Unica website for more, or ask the tourist bureau people at the base of the funicular.

• ***Gelato: Pasqualetti - with two locations (the bigger one is to the left of the Duomo as you face the façade), this shop has fresh, bold flavors and is a must even if you're in town for a few hours.  There's always room for gelato!  Piazza del Duomo 14, 076-334-1034 and Corso Cavour 56, 076-334-2342, rec'd by Slow Food.

• Restaurants

  • Trattoria la Grotta - via Signorelli 5, 076-334-1348, closed Tues, in 15th century former stables, the oldest trattoria in Orvieto, classic recipes, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, TCI

  • La Palomba - Via Cipriano Menente 16, 076-334-3395, closed W and part of July/Aug, rec'd by Rick Steves, Slow Food, Frommer's, Mangiarozzo, and various other guidebooks, this no-nonsense trattoria just around the corner from Corso Cavour serves up good, homestyle food including Orvieto delicacy piccione (pigeon).  A must for truffle lovers: the hammy waiters grate half a truffle on each plate in front of you!

  • Enoteca Vinosus - rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso

  • I Sette Consoli - more expensive, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin, TCI

  • Piazza del Popolo - rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso

  • Osteria Numero Uno - rec'd by Mangiarozzo

  • Trattoria del Conte (in Buon Respiro) - rec'd by Mangiarozzo, Alice

  • Bakery: Il Dolce Forno - via Manente 20, rec'd by Slow Food

  • Porano (nearby): Il Boccone del Prete - via Bellini 12/16, 076-337-4772, www.ilbocconedelprete.it, closed Mon, in a romantic grotto, homemade bread/oil/pasta, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia  Mangiarozzo

• Events: Umbria Jazz - the Perugia-based festival moves to Orvieto in late December/early January--book your rooms ahead early if you plan a trip during this period!

• Nearby: Civita di Bagnoregio - Rick Steve's favorite hill town, near Orvieto (technically in Lazio, not Umbria, although right across the border just S of Orvieto); see his description.

• Corte della Maestà - looks like a nice place to stay

Assisi

Perched in the foothills of Mount Subasio, Assisi's medieval lanes glow in pink sandstone.  Now a pilgrimage site, thousands flock here to walk in the steps of St. Francis of Assisi and St. Claire (of the Poor Claire religious order).  Even if you're not religious, it is truly something to see its enormous churches and experience a peaceful serenity that is preserved even though it is swarming with tourists from around the world.  Also, late at night, or if you dart a street or two off the main roads, you have this too-beautiful-to-be-true town to yourself. 

• Basic notes: Rick Steves - as always, Rick Steves gives a great overview of the town & its major sights in his guidebooks. You can watch his episode on Assisi on Youtube.

• Budget Lodging:

  • Camere Annalisa Martini - Via San Gregorio 6; 075-813-536, rec'd by Rick Steves, these dirt-cheap rooms are rented out by the very friendly Signora Martini ("my name is like the drink!") right off the main square.  Not luxury (e.g. you share a bathroom down the hall) but clean and convenient.

  • St Anthony's Guest House - near Santa Chiara basilica run by a religious order, rec'd by Rick Steves

• Hiking: Mount Subasio - follow in the footsteps of St. Francis on this hike up the hill where he and his disciples lived in caves (which you can still see).  Halfway up the mountain is the Eremo delle Carceri (the "hermitage of the incarcerated," since the early Franciscans had "incarcerated" themselves in caves), where you can see Francis' cave and pray with the modern-day Franciscans in a monestary nearby. Maps/directions available here (in English) and here (in Italian, but with KML files)

• Resource: Sacred Destinations - has an excellent Assisi webpage with links to in-depth looks at the major churches in Assisi (including the Eremo delle Carceri).

• Religious Experience: Vespers - if you are religious/spiritual/musical and are staying the night, consider stopping in for evening vespers with the monks/brothers at the St Francis Basilica and/or the sisters/nuns at the Santa Chiara—both were very moving experiences!

Places to Eat

• ***Nun Bar / Benedikto Osteria - eating establishments associated with the super-posh NUN Assisi Relais & SPA Museum, which is a Roman-style spa and hotel built in a converted convent on top of Roman ruins. Benedikto is a bit fancy/haute cuisine, rec'd Michelin, but the Nun Bar has a more informal lunch service in their charming courtyard.

• ***Nuova Osteria La Piazzetta dell'Erba - via San Gabriele dell Addolorata 15b, 075-815-352, 347-864-5865, closed Mon, in medieval square, innovative takes on typical dishes such as caramels of fresh pasta with pear & pecorino, bocconcini with curry, beef filets with fine herbs, rec'd by Espresso, Mangiarozzo, Lonely Planet

• ***Sorbettiamo - this place is right on the "main drag" leading to the Basilica of St Francis (Via San Francesco 28F) so you wouldn't expect it to be good...but they have some delicious sorbet popsicles bursting with natural fruit flavor (we liked both the pineapple & mango). Also great granita (we loved the gelso or mulberry flavor)

• ?Pallotta - vicolo della Volta Pinta 6, 075-812-649, 075-812-307, closed Tues, Balducci family runs this trattoria with fresh, local ingredients (strangozzi with musrooms, tagliatelle with truffles, farro/lentil soup, pigeon, rabbit with wild herbs, etc.) rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2021, also a hotel a few blocks away at Via San Rufino 6 (has a nice tower with a 360° view)

• ?Il Baccanale - nice looking spot that uses local/organic ingredients and which can make its entire menu gluten-free, good Google/TA reviews

• Malvarina - agriturismo a ways outside town (~15 min drive), rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2021, olive trees, traditional cooking with ingredients from the property

• Eat Out Osteria Gourmet - rec'd Michelin, Lonely Planet, and TCI for local ingredients prepared by young chef

• Da Ermino - via Montecavallo 19 (a somewhat less touristy part of town), 075-812-506, closed Thurs, classic local cuisine such as strangozzi and grilled meats, rustic fireplace, rec's by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (not anymore in 2018-2021), Lonely Planet, Michelin (as of 2018)

• La Locanda del Cardinale - somewhat more expensive (>€40/person), both creative and traditional dishes, rec'd Michelin

• Buca di San Francesco - via Brizzi 1, 075-812-204, closed Mon, the "most beautiful restaurant in the city" in 14th century palace, simple local flavors, rec'd by Michelin and TCI

• Il Duomo - rec'd TCI, pizzas, pastas, grilled meats

• Pozzo della Mensa - via Pozzo della Mensa 11b, 075-815-5236, open every day except part of Nov/Dec, seasonal food rec'd by Alice and TCI, relatively inexpensive/good quality to price ratio

• Bibenda Assisi - enoteca rec'd TCI

• La Fortezza - vicolo La Fortezza 2b, 075-812-8993, www.lafortezzahotel.com, closed Thurs, in medieval fortress area, various local influences, homemade desserts, rec'd by Michelin (not anymore in 2018), TCI, also rents out rooms (no longer any good?)

• Buca di San Francesco - rec'd TCI

• Il Frantoio - rec'd TCI, Michelin for truffle dishes, big restaurant with outdoor terrace in summer, 

• Hostaria Terra Chiama - rec'd Lonely Planet for km0 locavore menu

• Osteria dei Priori - rec'd Lonely Planet for local ingredients

• La Locanda del Podestà - rec'd Lonely Planet

• Pizzeria da Andrea - rec'd Lonely Planet

• Terrazze di Properzio - nice views, especially at sunset, rec'd Lonely Planet

• Piadina Biologica - organic sandwiches rec'd Lonely Planet

• Trattoria Degli Umbri - 

• Hosteria Nova Baccanale Cafè ?

• SAIO - winery

• Near Santa Maria degli Angeli (valley floor below Assisi):

  • La Tavola Rotonda - rec'd TCI, closed Wed

  • Dal Moro Gallery - rec'd TCI

  • Brilli Bistrot - rec'd TCI

  • Umami Beer - rec'd TCI

  • San Francesco - via San Francesco 52, 075-812-329, closed Wed, somewhat fancy restaurant with view of the basilica, traditional cuisine, great desserts, rec'd by Michelin (not anymore in 2018) and TCI

• Armentum - outside town up the hill, rec'd Michelin

• Ristorante La Stalla - via Eremo delle Carceri 24 (~1 mile east of town on the way to the Eremo delle Carceri), 075-812-317, medieval building, rustic, also agriturismo with camping, rec'd by Mangiarozzo, Frommers (says "it just may be one of your most memorable and authentic Umbrian meals")

• Old notes:

  • 
    

  • Bistrot Brilli - in valley of Sant Maria deglia Angeli, via Los Angeles 83, 075-804-3433, a bit fancy, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin

• Enoteca San Pietro - via Borgo San Pietro 18b, 075-813-303, closed Tues, Umbrian specialties with creativity rec'd by Alice, inexpensive (€15-25, "light" menu €8.50)

  • Cheese: Caseificio Brufani in Santa Maria degli Angeli, Via Los Angeles 31, 075-804-2789, rec'd by Slow Food

  • Wineries

    • Saio - via della Passerella 9, 075-812-940, www.saioassisi.it, ...wine shop is via campiglione 94/A, 075-812-305, closed Sun afternoon and Mon/Tues, open 10-12:30 and 4-7:30, only does white wine

    • in Bastia Umbra, just NW of Santa Maria degli Angeli: Antigniano Brogal Vini, via degli Olmi 9, www.brogalvini.com ...also olive oil at Franco Betti, www.francobetti.it (in same town, Mangiarozzo rec's Bottiglieria con cucina Fratelli Bovini)

Towns near Assisi

Nocera Umbra

Hill town 33 km/34 min E of Assisi, on other side of Mount Subasio, which has a cool medieval core

• Piazza Grande - looks nice? #1 restaurant on TripAdvisor in town as of 2022

• Cantina della Villa - Localita La Cupa Colle di Nocera Umbra,  43.16700° N, 12.79738° E, 074-281-0329, www.cantinadellavilla.com, closed Wed, dinner only except Sun (with groups of ≥25 can also open for lunch other days), ancient traditions of the Appenines, especially beans/farro, also rent out rooms and space for camping, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia

• L'Angolo del Buongustaio - rec'd by Mangiarozzo, a bit outside of town

• Ristorante Bar Camping Pian delle Stelle - rec'd by Mangiarozzo, a bit outside of town

Spello

Popular hill town with a medieval core, beautiful views, much of the same pink sandstone as Assisi, and a famous "infiorate" festival on the Feast of Corpus Cristi when they decorate the streets with flowers, 12 km/16 min drive S of Assisi

• Ristorante La Cantina di Spello - rec'd by Mangiarozzo, Espresso, Dissapore, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2021

• Locanda del Postiglione - rec'd  Scatti di Gusto for mushrooms, closed Tues

• Il Pinturicchio - rec'd Dissapore, closed Tues

• E*tra Vergine Oleoteca - looks cool, small dishes?

• La Bastiglia - fancy place, dinner only (although less-expensive Osteria is next door and open for lunch and dinner??), rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, TCI, previously had 1 Michelin star (not in the guide as of 2021)

• olive oil

  • Simona Felicioni - www.oliofelicioni.it

  • Hispellum - www.hispellum.com bio-dynamic

• Wineries

  • Sportoletti - via Lombardia 1, 074-265-1461, www.sporteletti.com, Assisi Grechetto and Rosso wines

Montefalco

Home of famous Sagrantino wine and its more approachable/less aged cousin Rosso di Montefalco, a nice but small medieval town, 37 km/36 min S of Assisi

• L'Alchimista - Piazza del Comune 14, 074-237-8558, closed Tues, changing menu that features Sagrantino, rec'd by Gambero Rosso and Slow Food Osterie d'Italia

• Spiritodivino - Piazza Mustafà 2, 074-237-9048, closed Mon, B&B and bistrot rec'd by Gambero Rosso and Espresso...also related to Piazza Onofri place in Bevagna

• Il Coccorone - Largo Tempestivi 11, 074-237-9535, closed Wed, part of October, www.coccorone.com, highly rec'd by Mangiarozzo, also rec'd by Michelin

• olive oil: Villa Umbra - via Colle San Clemente 2, 074-237-9124, www.agritursimovillaumbra.it

• Wineries

  • Omero Moretti - in Giano dell'Umbria, just SW of Montefalco, via San Sabino 19, 074-290-433, www.morettiomero.it,  their Montefalco Rosso was named one of the best reds under €10 in Umbria (by Slow Food)

    • even better, they have some wonderful "Millenario" olive oil made from olive trees that are all over 1000 years old (!)...you can drive to the trees too (one of them is at 42.8459412,12.5875958 near Macciano)

  • Perticaia - località Casale (just W of town), 074-292-0328, www.perticaia.it, their Montefalco Rosso was named one of the best reds under €10 in Umbria (by Slow Food)

  • Rocca di Fabbri - località Fabbri (SE of town), www.roccadifabbri.com

  • Madonna Alta - località Pietrauta (NW of town), www.madonnalta.it

  • Arnaldo Caprai - località Torre (10 min N of town), www.arnaldocaprai.it

  • Cantina Novelli - località Pedrelle (10 min SW of town) on via Molino Capaldini, www.cantinanovelli.it

  • Antonelli San Marco - località San Marco 60 (10 min W of town), www.antonellisanmarco.it

Foligno

One of the few towns nearby that's in a valley, not on a hill; 19 km / 24 min S of Assisi

• ***Ristorante Enoteca Cucinaa Foligno - chef Marco Gubbiotti previously earned a Michelin star and then opened this casual spot between Foligno and Spello, which has a pastry shop/cafeteria/tavola calda most of the day along with some lunch and dinner service. Excellent food at very reasonable prices.

• Gelateria Amandola - rec'd in Gelaterie d'Italia 2020, not far from Cucinaa Foligno

• Nuovo Ristorante da Remo - via del Campo 4, 074-234-0422, 339-301-8085, closed Mon, in old palace in center of town, rustic plates of Umbrian traditional dishes, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia  Mangiarozzo

• Premiata Officina del Gusto - Piazza Don Minzoni 1 (at Via Gramsci), 074-262-0452, closed Tues, in center of town, elegant and creative, rec'd by Gambero Rosso

• Villa Roncalli - località Sant'Eraclio, via Roma 25, 074-239-1091, closed Mon, 19th century place on outskirts of Foligno, near park/pool, relaxing place that reminds one of historic splendor, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin, TCI, food blog (also a hotel?)

• Agriturismo Borgo La Torre - www.borgolatorre.com, rec'd by Mangiarozzo

• Hostaria Sparafucile - rec'd by Mangiarozzo

• La Locanda dei Due Apostoli - rec'd by Mangiarozzo

• Osteria del Teatro - rec'd by Mangiarozzo

• Olive Oil

  • Azusia - www.azusia.it

  • Molino Il Fattore - www.luigitega.it

  • Olio Metelli - www.metelli.it

  • Viola - www.viola.it

Cannara

Riverside town 14 km / 22 min SW of Assisi

• Perbacco Vini e Cucina - via Umberti I 16, 074-272-0492, closed Mon, dinner only starting at 7:30 PM, enoteca and restaurant, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Michelin, Mangiarozzo

• nearby, in Bettona, rec'd by Mangiarozzo: Il Poggio degli Olivi -  www.poggiodegliolivi.com (also rec'd Michelin) and Osteria dell'Oca www.osteriadelloca.com

• Wineries

  • Di Filippo - Vocabolo Conversino 153, www.vinidifilippo.com

Bevagna

Riverside town 24 km / 31 min S of Assisi, SW of Foligno

• Albergo L'Orto degli Angeli - Redibis - via Dante Alighieri 1 / via del Teatro, 074-236-0130, closed Tues, hotel/restaurant old traditional recipies, changes with the seasons, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin, TCI

• La Tavernetta di Porta Guelfa - via Raggiolo 2, 333-430-0722, closed Mon, dinner only (lunch possible with reservations), nice tiny place to try traditional flavors, daily changing menu, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia

• Piazza Onofri - Piazza Onfori 2, 074-236-1926, closed Wed, dinner only except weekends, www.spiritodivino.net/ristorante-bevagna old 13th-century olive oil house now holds this enoteca/restaurant, traditional dishes, also rent 9 rooms, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, TCI

• Antiche Sere - rec'd by Mangiarozzo

• La Trattoria di Oscar...e quant'altro - rec'd by Mangiarozzo

• Le Delizie del Borgo - rec'd by Mangiarozzo

• Ristorante El Rancho - rec'd by Mangiarozzo, Alice

• Ristorante La Lumaca d'Oro - rec'd by Mangiarozzo

• nearby in Gualdo Cattaneo: La Locanda del Prete (country house/restaurant rec'd by Gambero Rosso  Espresso) and La Vecchia Cucina (trattoria rec'd by Espresso, Michelin, TCI) and Ristorante Da Clelia (rec'd by Mangiarozzo)

• olive oil: Ronci, www.olioronci.it

• Wineries

  • Adanti - località Arquata, 074-236-0295, www.cantineadanti.com, their Montefalco Rosso Arquata was named one of the best reds under €10 in Umbria (by Slow Food)

Spoleto

Beautiful hill town known for its "festival of the two worlds" which has its twin in Charleston, South Carolina; 48 km/38 min S of Assisi

• Gelateria Crispini - rec'd Gelaterie d'Italia 2020

• Il Capanno - www.ilcapannoristorante.it rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Mangiarozzo

• Ristorante Apollinare - hotel/restaurant rec'd by Michelin, TCI

• Tempio del Gusto - rec'd by Estpresso, Michelin, TCI

• Al Palazzaccio da piero - rec'd by Michelin, TCI

• olive oil, both organic in Poreta, N of Spoleto towards Trevi

  • Gianluca Polidori - www.castellodiporeta.it

  • Villa Della Genga - www.leterrediporeta.it

• just E is Scheggino: Del Ponte - via di Borgo 11, 074-361-131, www.albergoristorantedelponte.com and www.hoteldelpontescatolini.it, closed Mon, restaurant/hotel, in pittoresque medieval village along Nera river, traditional dishes focusing on truffles, homemade pasta, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Michelin

• also E in Vallo di Nera: La Locada Cacio Re, www.caciore.com, rec'd by Mangiarozzo, Michelin

• south of Spoleto are the spectacular Marmore Falls, a cool manmade waterfall (see below in "Southern Umbria")

Trevi

Beautiful hill town with a nice view, near the train line, one of the "most beautiful villages in Italy", 33 km/32 min S of Assisi

• Gustavo - rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, TCI

• La Vecchia Posta - Piazza Mazzini 14, 074-238-1690, closed Thurs, www.lavecchiaposta.net, on the main square of Trevi, family-run place with traditional dishes, lots of truffles, homemade pastas, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Mangiarozzo

• olive oil:

  • Gaudenzi - Pigge, www.oliodopgaudenzi.it

  • Lorenzo Lucentini - Pigge, www.frantoiolucentini.it

  • Mascio - Falcione, www.agricolamascio.it

  • Zappelli Cardarelli - Bovara, www.agritursimoimandorli.com

Campello Sul Clitunno

Small hill town near freeway S of Trevi/Foligno, 36 km/32 min S of Assisi

• La Trattoria di Gabriele - Strada delle Vene 7, 074-327-5797, www.latrattoriadigabriele.it, closed Sun dinner, Mon, lots of attention to using good ingredients, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia  TCI, Mangiarozzo

• nearby in Castel Ritaldi: Locanda Rovicciano - www.locandarovicciano.it, rec'd by Mangiarozzo, Gambero Rosso, Espresso

• olive oil: Marfuga, www.marguga.it

Massa Martana

51 km/1 hr S of Assisi

• Fontana delle Pere - Vocabolo Perticara 138, 075-889-506, 348-592-9826, 347-720-4834, www.fontanadellepere.it, closed Sun dinner, agriturismo in Martani mountains, olives and grapes, €24 fixed menu that changes with what's fresh, only open on reservation, they have a pool and horses, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia

Norcia

81 km/1 hr S of Assisi, 42 km/38 min E of Spoleto...the birthplace of St. Benedict and St. Scholastica, known for pork products, suffered very bad earthquake in 2016

• Beccofino - rec'd by Espresso, Michelin, TCI

• Hotel Grotta Azzura, Granaro del Monte - rec'd by Michelin (Bib Gourmand), TCI

• Vespasia Palazzo Seneca - Gambero Rosso, Espresso, TCI

• Locanda de'Senari - www.agriturismosenari.it rec'd by Mangiarozzo

• Rifugio Perugia - www.rifugioperugia.it rec'd by Mangiarozzo

• Taverna Castelluccio - www.tavernacastelluccio.it rec'd by Mangiarozzo, TCI

• Trattoria dei Priori - www.trattoriadeipriori.it rec'd by Mangiarozzo

• Birra Nursia - a brewery run by mostly American (!) monks

• Taverna De Massari - in Fontevena just outside town, rec'd Scatti di Gusto for meats and porcini mushroom tagliatelle

• Castelluccio di Norcia - high-altitude village in Parco dei Monti Sibillini, known for lentils and wildflowers in late spring/early summer (also has the Festa Fioritura [blossoming festival] usually held the 3rd Sunday in June)...you can also hike up Monte Vettore

  • this 2021 NY Times article describes the fioritura and recommends Taverna Castelluccio

Preci

beautifully situated hill town near Parco dei Monti Sibillini, N of Norcia, ~1 hr S of Asisi)

• Il Castoro - via Roma 45, 074-393-9248, www.ristoranteilcastoro.com, closed Thurs, many ingredients are grown by proprieters, open in August, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia

• Al Porcello Felice - www.ilcollaccio.com rec'd by Mangiarozzo

Northern Umbria

The region north of Perugia, has some great towns and is close to Tuscany, Le Marche, and Emilia Romagna.

Umbertide

Riverside medieval town along Tevere (Tiber) river

• Locanda di Nonna Gelsa - Localita Niccone (towards Trasimeno/Cortona), via Caduti di Penetola 30, 075-941-0699, www.locandadinonnagelsa.com, closed Tues, vegetables and grilled meats, truffles when in season, Alice rec's going after summer, so there are fewer foreign tourists :-), rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Mangiarozzo

• San Giorgio - via Mancini 3, 075-941-2944, in center of town, quality local ingredients, vegetables from the garden, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso

Gubbio

One of Rick Steve's favorite hill towns (42 km/49 min N of Perugia)

• Alcatraz - Localita Santa Cristina, 075-922-9911/9914/9938/9939, info@alcatraz.it, www.alcatraz.it, natural, quality, local ingredients (many of which they make themselves), very kid friendly, large tables with buffet-style service, €25 fixed price, also rent out rooms (or campsites), reserve ahead!

• Piatto d'Oro - località Branca 205, 075-925-6238, closed Fri, rec'd by Mangiarozzo

• "Gubbio Gelati"  and "L'arte Golosa" di Paolo Bettelli are rec'd gelaterie

Città di Castello

~50 km / 40 min N of Perugia, 68 km / 52 min N of Assisi, 50 min off A1, Monte San Savino exit

• Lea - via San Florido 38, 075-852-1678, closed Mon, central location, very traditional food, homemade desserts, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia

• La Molenda - via Cortonese, 075-844-6028, closed Mon-Wed, dinner only except Sundays (but with groups of ≥20 can open other times), old millhouse now houses restaurant with local traditional dishes, homemade dsserts, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia

• Miniera di Galparino - Localita San Secondo, Vocabolo Galparino 36, 075-854-0784, www.galparino.com, closed Sun-Wed, dinner only, agriturismo in 12th century farmhouse, only 20 "fortunate people" can eat at a time, traditional dishes with innovative twists, menu changes every night, 5 rooms available to rent

• Caffè Accademia - via del Modello 1, 075-852-3120, 333-246-5882, closed Mon, dinner only (lunch available with reservation), chef Mirko adds his personality to traditional dishes, live music on Thursdays, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia

• Il Bersaglio - rec'd by Espresso, Michelin, TCI

• Trattoria degli Amici Miei - rec'd by Mangiarozzo, TCI

• Hotel le Mura - Raffaello - closed Sun, rec'd Michelin, cheap

• San Secondo - La Miniera di Galparino (Locanda Italia with "exemplary traditional cuisine")

• Food shop: Alimentari Il Girasole - via Liviero 2M, Slow Food rec's

• olive oil: Dante Sambuchi - frazione Ronti, via Casanova 15, 338-293-6982, www.aziendaagricolasambuchi.it, organic

Other Destinations

• Casa della Pace - rustic retreat center and agriturismo outside of Pietralunga with simple vegetarian dishes, beautiful countryside and as-advertised peaceful atmosphere

Southern Umbria

The region in Terni province borders Lazio to the south and includes Corbara lake (and Orvieto, covered above).  Just E of Terni itself is the Cascata delle Marmore, a huge, manmade waterfall that gets turned on and off several times a day.

Terni

• Il Convivio - in Osterie d'Italia 2022

• Lillero Trattoria  - in Osterie d'Italia 2022

• Gelato

  • Gelateria Europa Di Stocchi Valeria - rec'd Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020

  • New York Bar e Gelateria - rec'd Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020 (a bit NW of the main town)

• Were rec'd before, not sure now:

  • La Clessidra - rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso

  • Oste della Mal'Ora - www.ostedellamalora.it rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Mangiarozzo

  • Trattoria La Mora - Strada S, Martino 44, 074-421-256, clsoed Tues, tiny family-run trattoria, traditional regional cuisine, rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, TCI

  • Zenzero - via Fratini 34/36, 074-408-1944, closed Sun, dinner only, creative takes on regional cuisine, rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso

  • Ristorante Tacitus - rec'd by Mangiarozzo

  • Trattoria Teresa - rec'd by Mangiarozzo

  • olive oil: Eroli di Anna Minciarelli, www.olioeroli.it

  • Chocolate: La Cioccolateria Artigiana Fani - Corso Vecchio 145, rec'd by Slow Food

Acquasparta

S of Todi, N of Terni

• L'Umbriaco - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia

• Madre Terra - rec'd by Gambero Rosso

Amelia

W of Terni

• La Misticanza - rec'd by Gambero Rosso

• Albergo Ristorante Anita - www.albergoristoranteanita.it rec'd by Mangiarozzo

• olive oil:

  • Il Frantoio di Suatoni, www.ilfrantoio.com

  • Oliveto - www.agriturismooliveto.it

  • San Valentino - www.villasanvalentino.it

Avigliano Umbro

Hill town, NW of Terni, 1 hr S of Perugia, ~30 min S of Todi

• Il Castagneto - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia

• La Casareccia - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia

• La Posta - via Matteotti 19, 074-493-3927, www.ristorantelaposta.net, closed Mon, Tues, only dinner (except Sun), near fossilized forest of Dunarobba, lots of dishes, personal touch on traditional cuisine, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Gambero Rosso, TCI, Mangiarozzo

Montecchio

Hill town just S of Corbara lake, just off A1

• Semiramide - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, ingredients come from their family garden

• olive oil: Agricola Beatrice, via Sandro Pertini 3

Narni

SW of Terni

• ??? Rustico Gustio Umbro - restaurant rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2022, looks pretty good...?

• Were rec'd before, not sure now:

  • Da Sara - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia

  • Il Pincio - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia

  • Trattoria Il Cavallino - rec'd by Mangiarozzo

Other Towns

• Ferentillo (NW of Terni, not far from Marmore)

  • Piermarini - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Michelin

• Stroncone (medieval hill town S of Terni)

  • Taverna de Porta Nova - www.ristorantetavernadeportanova.com, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Michelin, TCI, Mangiarozzo

• Monteleone di Spoleto (SW of Scheggino/Spoleto): Trattoria Da Gigetto, rec'd by Mangiarozzo