Liguria

The Italians call it DGEH-noh-vah, the ancient maritime republic (along with Amalfi, Venice, and Pisa) and modern seaport, which is the largest city in Liguria. Birthplace of Christopher Columbus, Genova is also famous for its palaces and pesto alla genovese (Genovese pesto sauce—a pungent green sauce with basil, pecorino, and garlic). Convenient night trains go to and from Naples; Genova is also a relatively cheap home base to explore the region.

Places to Eat

Il Genovese - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014-2017, Dissapore
La Forchetta Curiosa - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014-2017
Antica Sciamadda - Via San Giorgio, 14r, 0102468516, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014-2017
Trattoria Rosmarino - centro storico near De Ferrari metro, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017
Trattoria della Raibetta - centro storico near San Giorgio metro, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017

Muà Lounge Restaurant - rec'd by New York Times for chic decor, scallops, testaroli, and other Ligurian specials
Gran Ristoro - sandwich shop rec'd by New York Times, cheap, closed on weekends, can deliver
Pasticceria Tagliafico - pastry shop rec'd by New York Times
Antica Osteria di Vico Palla - traditional food rec'd by New York Times column
Eataly Genova - branch of the popular chain of upscale pan-Italian eateries
Soho - casual seafood, not really a "restaurant", rec'd Dissapore
La Bigoncia - rec'd Dissapore
Sa Pesta - rec'd Dissapore
Osteria Marinara 'a Lanterna - rec'd Dissapore
I Tre Merli - rec'd Dissapore
Il Balcone - rec'd Dissapore
Ombre Rosse - rec'd Dissapore
Trattoria Ugo - rec'd Dissapore
The Cook al Cavo - rec'd Repubblica in 2018
Icuochi - rec'd Repubblica in 2018
?Cavour Modo 21 - won pesto competitions?
?Pestobene Genova - to-go place with good pesto?
?Trattoria Rosmarino - opened in 2010, looks nice?
Gelato:
- Profumo di Rosa - Via Cairoli 13 A/R gelateria rec'd by New York Times and Puntarella Rossa
- Gelateria Profumo - chosen by Gambero Rosso as one of the best gelaterie in Italy (and La Cucina Italiana and Puntarella Rossa), Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020 "3 coni"
- ??Cremeria Sestri - downtown at via San Vincenzo 68r (with different name, "Cremeria San Vincenzo"), at the airport, and in nearby Sestri Ponente at via Donizetti 36r, won an award in 2015, rec'd Golosario, Dissapore (they named one of the best gelaterie in Italy in 2017), Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
- U gelato du carruggiu - rec'd Puntarella Rossa
- Vaniglia - rec'd Puntarella Rossa
- Gelateria Romeo Viganotti - rec'd Puntarella Rossa, Dissapore's top gelaterie in Italy in 2017
- Capriccio - rec'd Puntarella Rossa
- Amedeo - rec'd Puntarella Rossa
- Gelateria Excellent - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
- Gelatina - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
- Cremeria Buonafede - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
focaccia shops rec'd by Dissapore:
- Panificio Voglia di Pane
- Le Fornarine
- Il Forno di San Nicola
- Zena Zuena
- Priano
fried food shops ("friggitorie") rec'd by Dissapore:
- Pannino Marino
- Ge8317 – Ittiturismo Boccadasse
- Antica Friggitoria Carega (more here)
formerly rec'd, not sure today:
- - Trattoria San Siro - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 (but not 2015)
  - Sa Pesta - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 & 2015 (but not 2017)
(W of centro storico, near airport): Trattoria Barisone - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014-2017
(N of centro storico): Osteria Da ö Colla - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014-2017
(NE of centro storico): Osteria da Pippo - Località Fontanegli, Salita alla Chiesa di Fontanegli 13r, 010 809351, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2015-2017
(E of centro storico): L'Angolo della Farinata - Via Boccadasse 69, 010-376-0174, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014-2017
(E of centro storico along the coast): Ristorante Capo Santa Chiara a Genova - fancy spot rec'd Dissapore
(S/E of centro storico along the coast): Bottega del Pesto - popular on Google
Pra - supposedly the best pesto genovese comes from this small town just W of Genoa
- Ostaia da u Santu (in Genova but near Pra) - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014-2017, Dissapore
- (inland in Mele): Osteria dell'Acquasanta - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014-2017
- (inland in Mele): Baccicin du Caru - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017

Elsewhere in Genova Province

Sori - down the coast from Genoa
- Da Drin - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014-2017
- not far away in San Bernardo: Il Tipico - rec'd Michelin
Portofino - upscale resort town
- Pasticceria Panificio Canale - rec'd Scatti di Gusto in 2017 for focaccia, also Gambero Rosso in 2014
- ?? nearby in Rapallo: U Giancu rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 & 2015, rec'd Scatti di Gusto in 2018
- nearby in Paraggi: Langosteria Paraggi, rec'd Michelin, Scatti di Gusto in 2018
Chiavari: Luchin - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014-2017
- ??? Cremeria Spinola - was on Dissapore's 2016 "best gelaterie in Italy" list (and Gambero Rosso and La Cucina Italiana), Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
- inland in Ne: La Brinca and Antica Osteria dei Mosto rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 & 2015
Camogli - beautiful, small tourist/fishing village east of Genoa; this Condé Nast Traveler article calls it "one of Italy's best-kept secrets" and Harper's Bazaar named it one of the 27 "Most Beautiful Places in Italy" ...not too far from Portofino. This Forbes article breaks down some of its main attractions, and this blogpost gives another perspective. They also have an annual fish festival in May that is pretty popular.
- Ristorante Da Paolo - looks nice, good Google reviews, rec'd Michelin, Scatti di Gusto in 2018, Lonely Planet, Via dei Gourmet
- Sâ - very good Google & TA reviews, a bit fancy, looks nice
- Cucù - tiny place with good Google & TA reviews
- La Loggia - up just above town with beautiful views, pretty good Google/TA reviews
- Ristorante Mille e una notte - also above town, nice views, also good Google/TA reviews
- Ostaia da ö Sigù - on the water with beautiful views, pretty good Google/TA reviews
- Pasticceria Focacceria Revello - rec'd Scatti di Gusto in 2017 for focaccia, Lonely Planet ...this blogpost (in Italian) also rec's and gives some other ideas for the area
- Ristorante la Playa - expensive but nice seaside restaurant with good Google/TA reviews, one of several associated with the Hotel Cenobio dei Dogi
- Recco is just W of Camogli
  - La Finestra sul Golfo - very good Google reviews
  - Teo's - a hip bar, with music & various dishes, good Google/TA reviews
  - Da ö Vittorio - popular place with giant foccacia and other Ligurian dishes, also rents rooms, rec'd Michelin
  - Manuelina - institution tha tmakes foccacia but also restaurant seasonal/local dishes (and associated hotel), rec'd Michelin
- Outside town in San Rocco di Camogli: Ristorante la Cucina di Nonna Nina - highly rec'd by Lonely Planet, also TCI, Via dei Gourmet, casual place with nice views & simple but fresh food
  - Bar Dai Muagetti - small bar with an amazing view and very good Google/TA reviews, serve small plates, especially popular at sunset, rec'd TCI, Guida di Genova, they won a "Foodie Award" in 2013, this blog calls them "Paradise in Liguria"
  - Trattoria do Spadin has even better views right on the water, although it gets more mixed reviews
- Outside town in San Massimo: U Giancu - looks like a nice, casual place with lots of vegetables
in nearby Santa Margherita Ligure:
- L'Insolita Zuppa - rec'd Michelin
- L'Altro Eden - rec'd Michelin
- Te la do io la merenda - rec'd Scatti di Gusto in 2017 for focaccia

Lavagna
- La Bilaia - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017
- Raieü - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017

Ne: La Brinca - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017
Rapallo: U Giancu - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017
Sestri Levante:
- gelateria 100% Naturale is on Dissapore's 2017 list of best gelaterie in Italy and Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
- Polpo Mario - rec'd Scatti di Gusto in 2018
- Caffè Tritone - piazza Francesco Bo 1, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Moneglia - near the southern edge of Genova province, is listed as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy

Cinque Terre (Five Lands)

Popularized by Rick Steves, these five tiny towns were once only accessible from the sea, although now a train connects them (there is limited car parking outside of the towns). A footpath, known as the Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail), connects the towns, and requires a fee for admittance (one version of the fee includes train transport; see Cinque Terre Insider's take on it). In warmer months, there's also a ferry connecting the towns. Each town has its own character...from north to south:

Monterosso (al Mare)

bustling resort town with a large beach

- ? Buranco - winery and agriturismo rec'd NY Times, stop by for a wine tasting with some light food
- ? Gastronomia San Martino - good for quick meals (a restaurant & tavola calda), very popular on Google & TripAdvisor, rec'd Frommers who call it "local gem" with very casual atmosphere, also rec'd NY Times, Lonely Planet
- Il Ciliegio - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014-2017 (not anymore in 2018)
- Trattoria da Oscar - rec'd Frommers, Lonely Planet
- Ristorante da Miky - rec'd Frommers, Lonely Planet, Michelin...many people say it's the "best" (or fanciest/most expensive?) restaurant in the Cinque Terre
  - La Cantina di Miky - less formal/less expensive place with same owner
- Il Casello - rec'd Frommers
- Il Fornaio di Monterosso - focaccia shop that got on Dissapore's top list
- L'Ancora della Tortuga - can get expensive, rec'd Michelin, Lonely Planet
- Da Eraldo - rec'd Lonely Planet
- Torre Aurora - rec'd Lonely Planet
- Il Massimo della Focaccia - rec'd Lonely Planet
- Ristorante Belvedere - rec'd Lonely Planet
- Slurp! Gelato - rec'd Lonely Planet
- Il Fornaio di Monterosso - rec'd Dissapore for foccacia
Note: as of early 2022 the main Monterrosso-Vernazza hiking path is closed
- it looks like pretty steep trails 508/582/591/509 connect these towns via the mountains...?

Vernazza

"the pretty one", beautiful babe of the bunch with its picturesque harbor

- ? Batti Batti' - focaccia shop rec'd New York Times, Lonely Planet
- Il Pirata - coffee shop/restaurant/hotel rec'd by Rick Steves
- Gambero Rosso - seafood restaurant rec'd Lonely Planet, Frommers
- Gianni Franzi - old school seafood rec'd Lonely Planet
- Gelateria Vernazza - rec'd Lonely Planet
- Ristorante Belforte - rec'd Frommers
- Ristoriamo - popular with food bloggers
- Trattoria Gianni Franzi - rec'd NY Times
- Volunteer with "Save Vernazza" to help repair local farms (~twice a week)

Corniglia

"the one on the cliff", quieter

...there used to be a good lemonade/yogurt shop near entrance to town...?
## A Cantina de Mananan - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2021, Frommers, Golosario, looks fun/fresh
# Km 0 - sandwich shop with locally-sourced ingredients, rec'd New York Times, Lonely Planet
# Alberto Gelateria - rec'd New York Times, Lonely Planet, local ingredients like honey and basil
La Posada Ristorante - rec'd Lonely Planet
Il Gabbiano - cafe with cold drinks, sandwiches, etc on the trail in the tiny hamlet of Prevo, rec'd Lonely Planet
Bütiega - take-away deli rec'd Lonely Planet
Pan e Vin - rec'd Lonely Planet
Note: as of early 2022 the main Corniglia-Manarola hiking path is closed
- ...if the road between Corniglia and Manarola is closed (or you want some more strenuous hiking) you can detour via Volastra (trail #587 aka 7a, then 586 aka 6d, then 506 aka 6), check out this site for more, this map shows some of the paths
  - you can also take a bus from Manarola to Volastra to shave some time off; departs ~hourly
  - Rick Steves rec's skipping the "official" trail #6/506 between Manarola and Volastra, instead heading on the "Vineyard walk" from the cemetery/Punta Bonfiglio to a sign/turnoff reading "Volastra panoramica")

Manarola

cute little town nestled in a small valley, a bit more "rustic", subject of the most famous photos...Manarola was probably the main inspiration for the town in the Disney movie Luca

?? Nessun Dorma - bar with a view and simple meals (mostly bruschette, cheese, and cured meats) rec'd New York Times, popular on TripAdvisor...also runs a "Pesto Experience" lunch/lesson at 10:30 on most days, where you make ligurian pesto
? Trattoria dal Billy - rec'd Frommers, Golosario, Lonely Planet (especially for seafood)
Il Porticciolo - rec'd Frommers, Lonely Planet
- Il Porticciolo Foodrink - more informal place associated with the restaurant, rec'd Lonely Planet
# Cappun Magru - informal wine bar / restaurant (also has some quick take-away stuff?) rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2021, Lonely Planet (there was a restaurant in Riomaggiore with the same name that is now closed—might have been the same owner?), more info about their eponymous dish here
Da Aristide - rec'd Lonely Planet
Gelateria 5 Terre - rec'd Lonely Planet, also has cannoli
(Marina Piccola was rec'd Michelin but not any more as of 2021, their Google reviews have also slid down considerably; still rec'd Lonely Planet...)
the flattest part of the entire 5-town hike is between Manarola and Riomaggiore
- Note: as of early 2022 the Riomaggiore side of the Manarola-Riomaggiore Via dell'Amore section is closed and not scheduled to re-open until 2024 (!)
- ...if this flat part (the main Via dell'Amore or "Way of Love") is closed, sometimes the Beccara Trail (#531, a much more strenuous hike with lots of stairs, but with gorgeous views) is open

Riomaggiore

second-largest town, like Manarola is mostly in a valley, apparently popular with Germans

? Rio Bistrot - rec'd New York Times, Michelin, Lonely Planet, looks very nice
Dau Cila - rec'd Michelin, Lonely Planet
Il Pescato Cucinato - rec'd Frommers, Lonely Planet, NY Times, has inexpensive fried takeout
A Piè de Mà - winery rec'd New York Times
Ripa del Sole - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2018
Ristorante-Enoteca Dau Cila - rec'd Frommers
La Lanterna - rec'd Frommers
La Lampara - rec'd Lonely Planet
La Cantina del Macellaio - more of a meat (versus seafood) place, Lonely Planet rec's including their "heavenly crème brûlée sprinkled with crushed hazelnuts"
Colle del Telegrafo - rec'd Lonely Planet (south of town, nice view, popular with hikers)

Which footpaths are open?

- For the latest status, check out the Official 5 Terre Park Website's map (closed parts are in black; as of early 2022, almost the entire coastal section was closed except Vernazza to Corniglia...some websites claim that the Monterosso al Mare to Vernazza section is open, but the official sites show them as closed...?)
  - This blog has a nice description of what it's like to hike the full 5 towns despite the trail closures

- Hiking maps are here
  - This Google Map shows a number of the trails in the area
  - Cinque Terre Insider is a great blog/website written by Amy Inman, an American expat who lives in Riomaggiore with her local husband and two kids; she has advice on a number of topics such as Cinque Terre with kids
  - Italian Fix has a nice introduction to Cinque Terre
  - New York Times has a 2017 "36 Hours in Cinque Terre" article that has some good tips (including getting out of the main towns to eat in Portovenere and Levanto)

Other Towns in La Spezia Province

Some of these towns combine the beauty of the Cinque Terre but fewer crowds (especially the first 3 listed, which are along the same coastline as the Cinque Terre). Nice article about hikes that avoid crowds

Campiglia Tramonti

Tiny hilltown along the coast, known for its saffron production, just south of the Cinque Terre and north of La Spezia...note that there is a hiking trail that connects Campiglia Tramonti to Riomaggiore (another trail leads to Portovenere to the south); you can also drive there from La Spezia but be prepared for lots of curves. Restaurants to check out:

***La Lampara, Via Tramonti 4, 018-775-8035, closed Mon - good home cooking, beautiful view, rec'd by (was rec'd by Michelin but not anymore as of 2021), TCI - we went here in 2014 and had a great lunch; their fritti are outstanding, their pesto lasagna was superb, and they even had gluten-free pasta! --> not sure if they're still good anymore?
Piccolo Blu - B&B that also serves fresh, simple food, rec'd by this blog

Portovenere (Porto Venere)

Further down the coast from the Cinque Terre, right where the peninsula ends; has nice castle

? Locanda Lorena - rec'd New York Times, Michelin
? Portivene Un Mare di Sapori - popular on Google and TripAdvisor, nautical themed decor, small (so it fills up fast)
? O chi o a cà toa - (in Fezzano, on the road towards La Spezia) also popular on Google & TripAdvisor, set menu with lots of small dishes
? Anciùa - quick to-go items like sandwiches and pies, very popular on Google & TripAdvisor, rec'd Lonely Planet
Antica Osteria del Carugio - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2018, TCI, Golosario, Dissapore...but mediocre reviews on Google & TripAdvisor (perhaps because of the gruff, "quirky" service?)
Trattoria la Marina da Antonio - has a "piatto di buon ricordo", rec'd TCI
Ristorante dei Poeti - in Royal Sporting Hotel, rec'd TCI
Il Timone - pizzeria/restaurant rec'd TCI, closed Tues...looks nice but Google/TripAdvisor reviews are mixed (especially for service)
Tre Torri - rec'd Scatti di Gusto in 2018
between Portovenere and La Spezia in Marola:
- Osteria Picciarello
- Trattoria Il Centro - technically in La Spezia but a little ways outside town, rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2018, TCI, dishes look relatively simple
- ? Le Ville Relais - also in La Spezia but just outside town, rec'd Golosario, Michelin, terrace overlooks the bay
- La Tortuga di Claudio - on same road, popular on Google/TripAdvisor
- Ancora - in Fezzano, popular on TripAdvisor & Google

Levanto

One train stop north of Monterosso (the northernmost town in the Cinque Terre), you can also hike on "path number 1" to Monterosso from here (more in this NY Times article)

? Gelateria Basilico e Limone - was on Dissapore's 2016 "best gelaterie in Italy" list and in 2017, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
La Sosta di Ottone III - restaurant a little ways uphill, rec'd Michelin
antiga ustaia zita - inexpensive, popular on TripAdvisor
Osteria Tumelin - rec'd Michelin
L'Oasi - rec'd by Michelin for raw fish dishes, can get expensive
L’Erba Persa - biodynamic agriturismo rec'd NY Times
L'Articciocca - rec'd New York Times --> CLOSED

...there are also several towns north of Levanto in La Spezia province including Deiva Marina, listed as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy, along with Framura

La Spezia

Relatively large town just south of the Cinque Terre; relatively inexpensive compared to the resort towns. Not as scenicly beautiful, but could be a cheaper "home base" for exploring the region?

***Gelateria: La Gelateria di Nonna Papera - 188 Corso Nazionale (this is what it looks like), great, fresh flavors from a serious gelato maker...we had a great snack here in 2014 and ended up going back for more :-)
?Gelateria Stella Marina - via Sforza 15, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
La Pia Centenaria - rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2018
Pizzeria Capolinea - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2018
- also appears to be a Pizzeria Capolinea 2.0 in Termo across the bay?
Osteria da Gianni - Corso Cavour 352, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2018
Pizzeria Da Pipeo - Via Genova 169 (slightly outside of the historic center, up the hill), rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2018
L'Osteria della Corte - rec'd Golosario, Michelin
Ristorante Andree - rec'd Michelin, a bit fancy?
Il Ristorantino di Bayon - rec'd Golosario
not sure:
- Pizzeria Da Luca - Via Michele Rossi 114, 018-756-4181, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014...no longer in 2018
- Trattoria Pagni - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014...no longer in 2018, there was a fire in May 2015
- Basta Curve - Piazza Chiodo 35, 018-789-6037, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014...no longer in 2018
- Osteria all'Inferno dal 1905 - Via Lorenzo Costa 3, 018-729-458, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014...no longer in 2018
- in Arcola: Il Tagliere 2 - Via Valentini 218, 018-798-7553, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014...no longer in 2018
- Antica Trattoria Sevieri - was rec'd Michelin but not anymore in 2023, also 3.8 reviews on Google?, fresh ingredients from nearby market

South of La Spezia

This corner of Liguria, extending from La Spezia to the Tuscan coast, is perhaps the least touristy area. The Gulf of La Spezia is also known as Il Golfo dei Poeti (the Gulf of Poets) since British poets like Byron & Shelley spent time here

Lerici (along the coast, has a castle)
- San Terenzo - a cute fishing village and "frazione" of Lerici with a castle; Percy & Mary Shelley apparently stayed here in the 19th century...you can walk from San Terenzo to the main town of Lerici in about 30 minutes
  - Ristorante Picinin - looks nice? Good Google & Tripadvisor reviews
  - La Locanda del Sole Nero - down to earth osteria that also rents rooms, good Tripadvisor
  - Ristorante Franceschini - on the edge of haute cuisine, good Tripadvisor
- Tellaro - a "frazione" of Lerici that is listed as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy
  - Gianni D'Amato - rec'd Michelin, Scatti di Gusto, at the Locanda Miranda hotel, a bit expensive/haute cuisine?
  - Osteria la Caletta - very good Google & Tripadvisor reviews
  - Gambero Nero - good Google & TA reviews, also a hotel
  - Il Forno In Piazzetta - popular on Google & Tripadvisor, informal foccacia & pizza by-the-slice, a bit south of the main town near the Albergo Miramare
    - # La Barca Tellaro - nearby, looks nice, great Google & Tripadvisor reviews
  - people say the Spiaggioni to the east of Tellaro is one of the best beaches in the area, but it's hard to get to
- Il Fico trentacareghe - in the Fiascherino "località" (between Tellaro & Lerici), rec'd Michelin
- # Siamo Fritti - casual fried food place with fried anchovies, etc, amazing Google & Tripadvisor reviews
- # Burro & Anciue - Piazza Garibaldi 8, not to be confused with the Ristorante l'Anciùa, has amazing Google reviews...looks nice
- # La Piccola Oasi - in the main harbor, really good Google & Tripadvisor reviews, looks nice
- Ristorante Glam - waterside, slick restaurant with good Google & Tripadvisor reviews
- Osteria Di Redarca - up on the hill in località Redarca, looks nice, good Google reviews

Sarzana (a bit inland, has the Fortezza di Sarzannello castle)
- ...has some non-Italian food like Organic Poke, Miho Japanese, Kooka Japanese
- every Saturday is a Slow Food market in Piazza Martiri?
- # Gelateria Biagi - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
- # Hostaria da Nemo - outstanding Google reviews & very good Tripadvisor...looks good
- Il Viandante - good Google reviews
- Osteria Daivè - good Google reviews, slightly fancy but not overly so?
- Morzillo truck food - sandwich truck with a cult following on Google & Tripadvisor
- Focacceria Osteria Da Francesco - slightly outside town, very good Google & Tripadvisor
Ameglia (the ~last town on the Ligurian coast before you get to Tuscany)
- Hotel Monastero Santa Croce - a monastery that allows hotel guests, looks interesting?
- ? Ristorante Locanda Pescarino Sapori di Terra e di Mare - in the Montemarcello "frazione" (another listing in the Most Beautiful Villages of Italy), rec'd Michelin, part of Le Figarole hotel
- ? Osteria Mama si - in Marinella di Sarzana, which is actually the last town before Tuscany, very popular on Google & Tripadvisor, looks very nice
in Cerri is the Arci Cerri "Dal Giova", an informal place rec'd Scatti di Gusto in 2016
...inland of many of the seaside towns if the Parco naturale regionale di Montemarcello-Magra-Vara, which has various footpaths through the peninsula and up Monte Caprione (some of the best views/sunsets are near the "Pugliola" area?)

Imperia Province

Most of the following towns are an hour or less from the French border (near Menton).

Dolceaqua - nice town right near the French border on a river, a ways up from the coast
- A Viassa - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2021
- up the road in Isolabona: Agriturismo La Molenella - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2021
- further up the road in Località Madonna Assunta/Pigna: Terme (hotel/restaurant) rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2021, Michelin Bib Gourmand
Montegrosso Pian Latte - pretty far inland, not far from France's Mercantour Park
- Osteria del Rododendro - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 & 2015
- (in Mendatica:) Agriturismo Il Castagno - Via San Bernardo 39, 018-332-8718, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 & 2015
Bordighera - along the coast, very close to Ventimiglia (the last major town before the French border)
- Magiargè - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 & 2015, Michelin
- outside town: Madonna della Neve - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 (but not 2015)
- not far away in Ospedaletti: La Playa - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 & 2015
Sanremo - where the rich and famous go to the beach; home of the annual Sanremo Music Competition
- La Tavernetta - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 & 2015
- Tortuga - Via Nino Bixio, 93a, 018-484-0307, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 & 2015
- inland in Badalucco: Cian de Bià - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2015
Imperia - on the coast, largest town
- Osteria Didù - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2015
Seborga - listed as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy

Savona Province

The next province over from Imperia, also not far from France

- Albenga - coastal town known for its towers
  - Osteria del Tempo Stretto - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014
  - da Puppo - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014
  - Casa del Gelato - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
  - in nearby Alassio: I Mattei - Viale Daniele Hanbury 132, 018-264-6680, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014
- Finale Ligure - resort town with some castles
  - Da Virginia - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014
  - Da Casetta - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014
  - La Gioiosa - restaurant/hotel rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014
  - Ai Cuattru Canti - Via Torcelli 22, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014, Lonely Planet
  - inland in Calice Ligure: Pastorino Gelateria - consistently on Dissapore's list of best gelaterie in Italy, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
- Savona - capital of the region, on the coast
  - Vino e Farinata - Via Pia 15, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014
  - inland in Altare: Quintilio - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014
  - inland in Mallare: La Lanterna - Lacalità Panelli, 019-586-300, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014

Slow Food Liguria has a list of restaurants

Google Sites

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