Liguria

With striking mountains plunging into the sea, Liguria hugs the coast from northwest Tuscany to southeast France. The strip of land between the mountains and the water is known as the "Italian Riviera". It's best known for its historic and bustling capital (Genoa), pesto genovese (what most Americans think of when they say "pesto", although chances are few have had the real deal), and the 5 idylic fishing villages of the Cinque Terre, but there are many other towns and sub-regions to explore. No other strech of Italian coast (other than perhaps the Amalfi Coast) is as stunningly beautiful.

Genoa (Genova)

...has its own page! (...which also covers the area within ~30 min drive of Genoa)

Genova Province outside the City

Together with La Spezia province, the following towns make up the "Riviera di Levante" (which basically means "Eastern Riviera"), which extends from Genoa to the Tuscan coast. They are listed roughly from North/West to South/East:

Portofino Peninsula

This peninsula runs from Recco/Camogli in the west to San Michele di Pagana/Rapallo in the east, with the eponymous upscale resort town of Portofino near the tip of the peninsula.

Recco

Half an hour drive E of Genoa and just before Camogli, Recco is a nice resort town known as the birthplace of focaccia di Recco (focaccia stuffed with stracchino cheese). Most of the buildings are relatively new (compared to the rest of the coast) since the town was heavily bombed in WW II.

• ? Focacceria Manuelina - institution that makes the famous foccacia di Recco (and may have invented it?) but also a restaurant with updated seasonal/local dishes (and associated hotel), rec'd Michelin, Identita Golose, Corriere della Sera --> looks nice! fairly traditional/simple dishes but done well; also does GF focaccia and pasta, their dessert with sheets of sweet focaccia with chantilly cream & strawberries looks nice

• ? Ristorante Da ö Vittorio - popular place with giant foccacia di Recco and other Ligurian dishes, also rents rooms, rec'd Michelin (seems just a bit more fancy than Manuelina)

• Teo's - a hip/lively bar, with music & various dishes (looks pretty good/fresh), good Google/TA reviews

• Other places for foccacia di Recco (according to Taste Atlas's aggregated notes and Gambero Rosso, other than Ö Vittorio and Manuelina, the top 2 places): Panificio Moltedo, Panificio Pasticceria Tossini, Focaccia in Piazetta, Pizzeria del Ponte, Da o Fugassà

• ?? outside town in Pieve Ligure: Ristorante Ortica - part of the Tenuta Golfo Paradiso hotel, beautiful views, ingredients from their own garden, rec'd Michelin, Identita Golose, Golosario, la Repubblica, has tasting menus but also surprisingly affordable a la carte menu as well...somewhat fancy but not ridiculously so?

  • nearby in Bogliasco: Nughenè il Gelato - outstanding Google reviews, looks nice, also gluten free cookies, rec'd Gambero Rosso

Camogli

Beautiful, small tourist/fishing village east of Genoa; this Condé Nast Traveler article calls it "one of Italy's best-kept secrets" and Harper's Bazaar named it one of the 27 "Most Beautiful Places in Italy". This Forbes article breaks down some of its main attractions, and this blogpost gives another perspective. They also have an annual fish festival in May that is pretty popular.

• ?? Izoa Ristorante - fresh fish rec'd Gambero Rosso, Corriere della Sera, Genova Today, very popular on Google/TA...opened 2022, slightly fusion-y (includes North African and South American influences), seems a little bit haute cuisine-ish but still fairly reasonable prices/portions (it's not a 10-dish tasting menu kind of spot); apparently good with gluten free (one set of honeymooners who spent 5 days in the region said "easily the best meal of our trip")

• ? La Loggia - up just above town with beautiful views, food seems a bit simple/rustic but well-prepared, pretty good Google/TA reviews, won Gambero Rosso's "best quality/price" award in 2025

• Informal/take-away/non-restaurants

  • Pasta Fresca Fiorella - very informal spot near the beach that sells take-away/tavola calda style food at low prices, rec'd Corriere della Sera

  • (Pasticceria) Focacceria Revello - take-away pastry/focaccia spot rec'd Scatti di Gusto in 2017 for focaccia, Lonely Planet, Italy Segreta, La Cucina Italiana, Gambero Rosso

  • Il Bricco Caffè - coffee & pastries rec'd this blog

  • Cooperativa pescatori pesce pazzo - boat serving fried fish  rec'd this blog

  • Gelato: Latterie 1978 - outstanding Google reviews, rec'd this blog, this blog says it only opened in 2024

• Ristorante Da Paolo - seafood-centric, good Google reviews, rec'd Michelin, Scatti di Gusto in 2018, Lonely Planet, Via dei Gourmet, La Cucina Italiana

• Mille e una notte Ristorante - above/outside town, rec'd this blog, good Google/TA reviews

• Cucù Camogli - tiny place with good Google & TA reviews, chef previously ran Galletto al Mattone in Genoa; this blogger really liked it

• Ristorante Mille e una Notte - above town, nice views, also good Google/TA reviews

• Ostaia da ö Sigù - on the water with beautiful views, pretty good Google/TA reviews, rec'd Gambero Rosso, Corriere della Sera, La Cucina Italiana

• La Bossa di Mario  Enoteca con cucina - rec'd Gambero Rosso, this blog, seems like traditional dishes with some innovations

• Fermento - rec'd Gambero Rosso, this blog, very good Google/TA reviews, somewhat innovative/fusion-y?

• [closed? Sâ - very good Google & TA reviews, a bit fancy, looks nice rec'd Gambero Rosso]

• Outside town in San Rocco di Camogli (~30 min walk uphill south of town):

  • Ristorante la Cucina di Nonna Nina - highly rec'd by Lonely Planet, also TCI, Via dei Gourmet, La Cucina Italiana, casual place with nice views & simple but fresh food

  • Bar Dai Muagetti - small bar with an amazing view and very good Google/TA reviews, serve small plates, especially popular at sunset, rec'd TCI, Guida di Genova, La Cucina Italiana, they won a "Foodie Award" in 2013, this blog calls them "Paradise in Liguria"

  • Trattoria do Spadin - even better views right on the water (along the hike from San Rocco to Punta Chiappa), although it gets more mixed reviews on Google; rec'd this guide

  • Tucca e Leva - rec'd this blog

Portofino

A former fishing village at the tip of the peninsula with colorfully-painted houses, this is now a fairly fancy resort town. Castello Brown (which has a lot of steps) is highly recommended by various folks. Outside town is Portofino Regional Park. Some folks recommend checking the cruise ship schedule to avoid times that ships are docked.

...maybe not the best place for eating though? almost everything seems pretty expensive & often not worth it?

• ? La Terrazza Restaurant - a little ways outside of the main town on a hill, inside the Splendido Belmond Hotel (a former Benedictine monastery that has been popular with the rich and famous since the early 20th century including British royalty and Hollywood stars, remodeled in 2025), very expensive (likely at least € 100 if not €200 per person) but it looks like it could be worth the splurge?, lots of GF options; probably have to reserve in advance for a balcony table, very good Google / TA reviews, rec'd CN Traveler

• Osteria dei Coppelli - in the "Prato" area a hike uphill from the Portofino town, beautiful views and rustic-inspired food (associated with La Portofinese, an organic "eco-farm", that also runs cooking classes and other "experiences")

  • they also run the nearby (also rustic/nice) Mulino del Gassetta

• Al Faro di Portofino (La Portofinese) - at the tip of the peninsula (people say the 15-20 min walk there/back is beautiful...Castello Brown is also on the way), an informal bar with nice views and simple but high-quality food (sandwiches/focaccia, cheese & charcuterie, gelato, etc) alongside drinks...also part of La Portofinese organic farm collective

• DaV Mare (aka Da Vittorio Mare) - rec'd Michelin, Scatti di Gusto, Identita Golose, Gambero Rosso ...same owners as the 3-star restaurant Da Vittorio in Brusaporto, outside of Bergamo...a bit fancy/expensive but looks nice, lots of seafood

• Ristorante Cracco Portofino - rec'd Michelin, Scatti di Gusto, Identita Golose, Gambero Rosso, Stanley Tucci; looks a little bit haute cuisine despite a more seaside/casual view...has mediocre Google/TA reviews though? (many of them are for perceived low value/high prices/small portions, but some also criticize the food itself...?)

• Ristorante Puny - in various guides like this one but ho-hum Google/TA reviews?

• Ristorante Da Ö Batti Portofino - similar to Puny, in this guide but ho-hum Google/TA reviews; some folks online like the "scampi alla Battj" dish

• Ristorante Taverna del Marinaio - this guide says it's pretty good value, ho-hum Google/TA reviews

• Gelateria Gepi Portofino - one of the better ones in town, rec'd Gambero Rosso, this guide (another branch is in Santa Margherita Ligure)

• Pasticceria/Panificio Canale - rec'd Scatti di Gusto in 2017 for focaccia, also Gambero Rosso in 2014 --> not good anymore? lots of Google reviews complain about shockingly rude treatment, one local says "this place has turned into a tourist scam"...?

• Portofino Trek shows a bunch of the hikes in the park

San Fruttuoso Abbey

This seaside abbey is only accessible by boat or foot, and Voyaged Magazine calls it "the Riviera's Best-Kept Secret"

• • Getting there:

    • this page describes the hike from Camogli

    • this page describes the hike from Portofino (which is shorter/easier than the Camogli one...some folks recommend doing it in reverse, so you ferry into San Fruttuoso and hike back out to Portofino?), map here

    • Golfo Paradiso runs the ferries from Recco, Camogli and Punta Chiappa (the point at the end of the road from San Rocco)

    • Consorzio Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio runs the ferries from Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure, Portofino, and elsewhere (such as Sestri Levante)...Line 1 is probably the most useful for visitors to/from the south/east

  • Where to eat:

    • Da Laura - rec'd in this guide and Corriere della Sera

    • Da Giovanni - rec'd this guide

    • ...there are a couple other places (La Puntetta, La Cantina) that get worse Google reviews, but TBH none of the restaurants in the San Fruttuoso immediate area seem particularly outstanding?

    • ...you could also hike all the way up to Agririfugio Molini, (nearly 1 km of switchbacks) which looks rustic but nice?

Santa Margherita Ligure

Halfway between Portofino and Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure (SML) is a graceful seaside town with old villas/gardens (e.g. Villa Durazzo and Abbazia della Cervara). Travel and Leisure says it "has the charm of Portofino without the crowds" (you can also walk to Portofino from SML, ~1 hour along the coast...you can take the Tigullio Line 1 ferry or AMT Bus 782 back)

• ? Rêve Osteria Contemporanea (aka Rêve Café) - looks nice?  one of the more "modern" places on the water? cute/romantic setting, rec'd Savoring Italy blog, this 2018 blog, this blogger liked their "shabby chic décor" and tasty pasta; relatively short/seasonal menu that has a fair amount of seafood (despite the French-sounding name the dishes seem like updated local classics, other than maybe mousse for dessert?)

• ? Angolo 48 - looks fun, a mix of Ligurian dishesand pan-Italian stuff (like amatriciana), rec'd Travel & Leisure, this blogger said it was romantic, this couple loved it on their babymoon, lots of GF, good Google/TA

• Ristorante Karalis - (their instagram is confusing, saying they are "open every day", then "Wednesday closed" then "Thurs through Sun"??) seafood spot, very good Google/TA, rec'd TCI, looks like relatively fresh interpretations of local classics

• Trattoria da Pezzi - old school spot for casual/quick food, Genoa-style (looks like they do take-away and sit-down dining), rec'd Travel & Leisure, A Small Kitchen in Genoa blog and this guide for fresh/local ingredients

• L'Insolita Zuppa - was rec'd Michelin but not anymore in 2025, a bit inland, seems casual/slightly rustic, folks on Reddit liked

• L'Altro Eden - on the water, nice views, rec'd Scatti di Gusto, Gambero Rosso, this guide, this guide, was rec'd Michelin but not anymore in 2025

• Ristorante Vistamare - south of the port, on a terrace overlooking the ocean at the Grand Hotel Miramare (men are required to wear long pants); good Google/TA; for a fancy hotel restaurant it isn't ridiculously expensive, food looks like well-executed slightly haute cuisine versions of local dishes

• Osteria Numero 7 - looks like a nice classic trattoria (fazzoletti al pesto, etc), near the port; rec'd this guide, this other blog recommends their pansori con salsa di noci (ravioli with walnut sauce), good Google but mixed TA reviews (most of the bad TA reviews are from 2023 or before? recent ones seem good...)

• Ristorante Taverna Colombo - good Google/TA...dishes aren't much to look at though? the green taglierini with bolognese ragù seems popular

• Less-Local Food:

  • Naples: Zi’ Ninella Ristorante Gourmet - very good Google/TA reviews, near the port, somewhat fusion-y fancy Campanian/Neapolitan food, rec'd Savoring Italy blog, Travel & Leisure (as of 2025 had €89 fixed price menu or a la carte)

    • ? Zi' Ninella Bottega e Bistrot - ~next door, more casual wine shop with some tables for eating (or you can get stuff takeout)

  • France: DuCoq - oyster bar/seafood place with mostly French influences, rec'd this guide, Savoring Italy blog, Travel & Leisure, good Google/TA

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• Ristorante Antonio - rec'd Travel & Leisure

• Oca Bianca - rec'd A Small Kitchen in Genoa blog, TCI

• Ristorante MOG - relatively inexpensive, rec'd this 2018 blog including for ceviche

• Santacaciara (aka Santa Caciara) - unusual spot (pan-Italian stuff like cacio e pepe with seafood, and insalata caprese made with burrata), great Google/TA, Saturday live music, seems like younger cooks who prepare stuff at the table and show it on Tiktok...looks like it could be fun?

• Parea Mare Bistrot - bar/light food spot with good Google/TA

• in San Lorenzo della Costa:

  • Trattoria da Oreste

  • Ristorante Il San Lorenzo "La Macelleria"

• in/near Paraggi (halfway between SML and Portofino):

  • Capo Nord - a little ways south of town (almost to but not in Paraggi), seafood on the water, rec'd this guide...chef Makoto Moriyama is from Japan, so there are also some Japanese dishes

  • ? Langosteria Paraggi, rec'd Michelin, Scatti di Gusto in 2018, La Cucina Italiana, Gambero Rosso, Identita Golose,  this guide, this guide pretty expensive but looks nice?

  • ö Magazín In Spiaggia - (also in Paraggi, halfway between SML and Portofino) relatively inexpensive spot rec'd Scatti di Gusto in 2023 for a "perfect lunch", Gambero Rosso, this guide; for some reason this and the sister restaurant in Portofino get bad Google reviews but the sister restaurant (ö Magazin Al Pörto) in Rapallo gets pretty good ones?

• Casual / pastries / gelato / etc

  • Antica Drogheria Seghezzo - fancy grocery store that also sells sweets, pastries, cheeses, cured meats, take-away tavola calda style dishes, etc, rec'd A Small Kitchen in Genoa blog, Gambero Rosso

  • A' crêuza du Giò Focacceria / Dolceria - foccaica, great Google reviews, rec'd this guide

  • Panificio Fiordiponti - foccacia place rec'd Italy Segreta, La Cucina Italiana, A Small Kitchen in Genoa blog

  • Pinamonti Focacceria - rec'd La Cucina Italiana, A Small Kitchen in Genoa blog, this guide for focaccia al formaggio but also quiches

  • Sapori di Pane - foccacia place with great Google reviews

  • Te la do io la merenda - bakery rec'd Scatti di Gusto in 2017 for focaccia

  • Grapes - croissants, pancakes, breakfast goods, and other pastries; great Google reviews

  • Gelateria Gepi - rec'd this guide

  • Gelateria Centrale - looks like probably the best one in town...? rec'd Gambero Rosso, this blog, A Small Kitchen in Genoa blog

  • Il Pescetariano - fried fish near the port, outstanding Google reviews, rec'd this guide 

Rapallo

the nearest ferry port town; consider the funivia to the Santuario de Montallegro

• ## U Giancu rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (as recently as 2025), Fodor's, rec'd Scatti di Gusto in 2018, Luciano Pignataro, La Cucina Italiana, Genova Today, Gambero Rosso, ..looks like a nice/casual place with lots of vegetables --> rec'd by a lot of folks, looks nice!

• Il Salotto Atelier Gourmet - rec'd Michelin (new in 2025), in Rosabianca Hotel, looks nice

• Le Cupole (del Grand Hotel Bristol) - rec'd Michelin, Gambero Rosso, Scatti di Gusto for seafood

• ? Frisceu & Arancini - amazing Google reviews

• Mitili & Mitili - mussel place rec'd Scatti di Gusto

• Il Pizzettiere - rec'd Scatti di Gusto

• La Casana ZeroG - gluten free shop, sells to-go foods, plus fresh pasta, pastries, etc.

• Panificio Pasticceria Vivaldi - rec'd La Cucina Italiana

• Bar Pasticceria Carlo - rec'd  Gambero Rosso

• Rapalà - looks nice, good Google reviews, pretty reasonable prices (sea/land fixed price menus for €42 and €52, or can get a la carte)

• outside town, closer to Santa Margherita Ligure/San Massimo:

  • Osteria Vecchia Mulino - good Google reviews, looks nice/romantic?

  • Mandilli de Sea - great Google reviews?

• gelato: Simonetti? Il Polpo (The Octopus)? Frigidarium?

  • Eldòlz Pasticceria/Gelateria - seems like more of a pastry/breakfast spot but looks nice?

• outside town in Zoagli:

  • L'Arenella ristorante sul mare - rec'd Scatti di Gusto, La Cucina Italiana, Gambero Rosso, Petit Futé for seafood (mixed reviews on TripAdvisor though?)

  • La Bettola - good Google reviews

  • Ristorante Cerisola - further inland, excellent TA/Google reviews

East of Rapallo/Eastern Golfo di Tigullio

Chiavari

Elegant town known for having good food including farinata (chickpea bread), located east of Rapallo

• Luchin - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014-2017, Sarah Barrell in National Geographic Traveller 2014, La Cucina Italiana

• Duo - somewhat modern, not too expensive spot, rec'd Michelin, Identita Golose, Gambero Rosso

• Lord Nelson - fancy seafood, rec'd Michelin

• ?? Ristorante Da Felice - Michelin Bib Gourmand, Gambero Rosso, Scatti di Gusto for seafood...surprisingly inexpensive (e.g. tasting menu for only €37 in 2025)

• Dav Vittorio Chiavari - rec'd Genova Today for both farinata and osteria dishes

• Boccon Divino - Gambero Rosso

• Gran Caffe Defilla - Gambero Rosso

• Gelato

  • ?? Cremeria Spinola - was on Dissapore's 2016 "best gelaterie in Italy" list and Gambero Rosso/Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020

  • Gelato Pachamama - looks interesting/nice? mostly organic ingredients, etc, Gambero Rosso

  • 100% Naturale gelateria artigiana Chiavari - also looks nice, all natural ingredients, some gluten-free pastries too...also a branch in Sestri Levanti

Lavagna

East of Chiavari, on the other side of the Entella river

• La Bilaia - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017

• Aria - fancy, somewhat haute cuisine place, rec'd Michelin

• in nearby Cavi di Lavanga:

  • Trattoria Raieü - Michelin Bib Gourmand, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017, La Cucina Italiana, Genova Today, Gambero Rosso

  • Impronta d'Aqua - modern/haute cuisine place, rec'd Gambero Rosso, Scatti di Gusto for seafood, 1 Michelin star

Ne

inland of Chiavari/Lavagna

• Trattoria La Brinca - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (through at least 2025), Luciano Pignataro, Michelin Bib Gourmand, Gambero Rosso gave it a special award in 2025, Identita Golose, Genova Today

• ...further inland in Carasco: Trattoria Settembrin (Oü Settembrin) - rec'd Italy Segreta

Sestri Levante

Beautiful beachside town; includes the Baia delle Favole (Bay of Fairy Tales) named in honor of frequent visitor Hans Christian Andersen (the protected Baia del Silenzio next to the town is supposed to be one of the nicest in the region)

• gelateria 100% Naturale is on Dissapore's 2017 list of best gelaterie in Italy and Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020

• Polpo Mario - rec'd Scatti di Gusto in 2018, Gambero Rosso

• Ristorante Baia del Silenzio - named after the nearby bay, rec'd Scatti di Gusto for seafood, also rec'd Michelin; at the Hotel Miramare & Spa

• Ristorante Portobello - rec'd Scatti di Gusto for seafood

• Il Bistro - rec'd Scatti di Gusto

• Bar/Caffè Tritone - piazza Francesco Bo 1, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020

• Rezzano Cucina e Vino - Michelin rec's for somewhat haute cusine seafood

• Balin Sestri Levante - modern/contemporary, rec'd Michelin, Gambero Rosso

• Le Cantine - inland a bit, relatively modern spot, rec'd Michelin

  • Osteria Cantine Cattaneo same? Gambero Rosso

• Panifico Tosi - rec'd La Cucina Italiana for focaccia

• Spiga d'Oro - rec'd La Cucina Italiana for focaccia

• Osteria Mattana?

• Gran Caffe Tritone Gambero Rosso

Moneglia

near the southern/eastern edge of Genova province, is listed as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy

Orto by Jorg Giubbani - won Gambero Rosso award in 2025

Cinque Terre 

...have their own page!

Rest of La Spezia Province

The Cinque Terre are by far the most popular destination in La Spezia Province...but they are also often very crowded with tourists.

Some of the following towns combine the beauty of the Cinque Terre but fewer crowds (especially the first 3 listed, which are along the same coastline as the Cinque Terre). Nice article about hikes that avoid crowds

Campiglia Tramonti

Tiny hilltown along the coast, known for its saffron production, just south of the Cinque Terre and north of La Spezia...note that there is a hiking trail that connects Campiglia Tramonti to Riomaggiore (another trail leads to Portovenere to the south); you can also drive there from La Spezia but be prepared for lots of curves.

Restaurants to check out:

• ***La Lampara, Via Tramonti 4, 018-775-8035, closed Mon - good home cooking, beautiful view, rec'd by (was rec'd by Michelin but not anymore as of 2021), TCI - we went here in 2014 and had a great lunch; their fritti are outstanding, their pesto lasagna was superb, and they even had gluten-free pasta! --> not sure if they're still good anymore?

• Piccolo Blu - B&B that also serves fresh, simple food, rec'd by this blog

Portovenere (Porto Venere)

Further down the coast from the Cinque Terre, right where the peninsula ends; has a nice castle

• ? Locanda Lorena - rec'd New York Times, Michelin

• ? Portivene Un Mare di Sapori - popular on Google and TripAdvisor, nautical themed decor, small (so it fills up fast)

• ? O chi o a cà toa - (in Fezzano, on the road towards La Spezia) also popular on Google & TripAdvisor, set menu with lots of small dishes

• ? Anciùa - quick to-go items like sandwiches and pies, very popular on Google & TripAdvisor, rec'd Lonely Planet

• Antica Osteria del Carugio - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2018, TCI, Golosario, Dissapore...but mediocre reviews on Google & TripAdvisor (perhaps because of the gruff, "quirky" service?)

• Trattoria la Marina da Antonio - has a "piatto di buon ricordo", rec'd TCI

• Ristorante dei Poeti - in Royal Sporting Hotel, rec'd TCI

• Il Timone - pizzeria/restaurant rec'd TCI, Fodor's, closed Tues...looks nice but Google/TripAdvisor reviews are mixed (especially for service)

• Tre Torri - rec'd Scatti di Gusto in 2018

• between Portovenere and La Spezia in Marola:

  • Osteria Picciarello

  • Trattoria Il Centro - technically in La Spezia but a little ways outside town, rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2018, TCI, dishes look relatively simple

  • La Tortuga di Claudio - on same road, popular on Google/TripAdvisor

  • Ancora - in Fezzano, popular on TripAdvisor & Google

Levanto

One train stop north of Monterosso (the northernmost town in the Cinque Terre), you can also hike on "path number 1" to Monterosso from here (more in this NY Times article)

• ? Gelateria Basilico e Limone - was on Dissapore's 2016 "best gelaterie in Italy" list and in 2017, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020

• Gattabriga - great Google reviews, this blog likes

• La Sosta di Ottone III - restaurant a little ways uphill, rec'd Michelin

• antiga ustaia zita - inexpensive, popular on TripAdvisor

• Osteria Tumelin - was rec'd Michelin but not anymore?

• Antica Trattoria Centro - rec'd Michelin

• L’Erba Persa - biodynamic agriturismo rec'd NY Times

• L'Articciocca - rec'd New York Times --> CLOSED

...there are also several towns north of Levanto in La Spezia province including Deiva Marina, listed as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy, along with Framura (which hosts L'Agave, rec'd Michelin, Genova Today)

La Spezia

Relatively large town a bit south of the Cinque Terre and inland in its own protected harbor; relatively inexpensive compared to the resort towns. Not as scenically beautiful, but could be a cheaper "home base" for exploring the region?

• ***Gelateria: La Gelateria di Nonna Papera - 188 Corso Nazionale (this is what it looks like), great, fresh flavors from a serious gelato maker...we had a great snack here in 2014 and ended up going back for more :-)

• ?Gelateria Stella Marina - via Sforza 15, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020

• La Pia Centenaria - rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2018

• Pizzeria Capolinea - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2018

  • also appears to be a Pizzeria Capolinea 2.0 in Termo across the bay?

• Osteria da Gianni - Corso Cavour 352, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2018

• Pizzeria Da Pipeo - Via Genova 169 (slightly outside of the historic center, up the hill), rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2018

• L'Osteria della Corte - rec'd Golosario, Michelin

• Restaurant Andree - also in La Spezia but just outside town, rec'd Golosario and Michelin,, terrace overlooks the bay, at Le Ville Relais hotel, a bit fancy?

• Il Ristorantino di Bayon - rec'd Golosario

• not sure:

  • Basta Curve - Piazza Chiodo 35, 018-789-6037, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014...no longer in 2018

  • Osteria all'Inferno dal 1905 - Via Lorenzo Costa 3, 018-729-458, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014...no longer in 2018

  • in Arcola: Il Tagliere 2 - Via Valentini 218, 018-798-7553, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014...no longer in 2018

  • Antica Trattoria Sevieri - was rec'd Michelin but not anymore in 2023, also 3.8 reviews on Google?, fresh ingredients from nearby market

South of La Spezia

This corner of Liguria, extending from La Spezia to the Tuscan coast, is perhaps the least touristy area. The Gulf of La Spezia is also known as Il Golfo dei Poeti (the Gulf of Poets) since British poets like Byron & Shelley spent time here

• Lerici (along the coast, has a castle...some people say it has the charm of the Cinque Terre without the crowds)

  • San Terenzo - a cute fishing village and "frazione" of Lerici with a castle; Percy & Mary Shelley apparently stayed here in the 19th century...you can walk from San Terenzo to the main town of Lerici in about 30 minutes

    • Ristorante Picinin - looks nice? Good Google & Tripadvisor reviews

    • La Locanda del Sole Nero - down to earth osteria that also rents rooms, good Tripadvisor

    • Ristorante Franceschini - on the edge of haute cuisine, good Tripadvisor

  • Tellaro - a "frazione" of Lerici that is listed as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy

    • Gianni D'Amato - rec'd Michelin, Scatti di Gusto, at the Locanda Miranda hotel, a bit expensive/haute cuisine?

    • Osteria la Caletta - very good Google & Tripadvisor reviews

    • Gambero Nero - good Google & TA reviews, also a hotel

    • Il Forno In Piazzetta - popular on Google & Tripadvisor, informal foccacia & pizza by-the-slice, a bit south of the main town near the Albergo Miramare

      • # La Barca Tellaro - nearby, looks nice, great Google & Tripadvisor reviews

    • people say the Spiaggioni to the east of Tellaro is one of the best beaches in the area, but it's hard to get to

  • Il Fico trentacareghe - in the Fiascherino "località" (between Tellaro & Lerici), rec'd Michelin

  • # Siamo Fritti - casual fried food place with fried anchovies, etc, amazing Google & Tripadvisor reviews

  • # Burro & Anciue - Piazza Garibaldi 8, not to be confused with the Ristorante l'Anciùa, has amazing Google reviews...looks nice

  • # La Piccola Oasi - in the main harbor, really good Google & Tripadvisor reviews, looks nice

  • Ristorante Glam - waterside, slick restaurant with good Google & Tripadvisor reviews

  • Osteria Di Redarca - up on the hill in località Redarca, looks nice, good Google reviews

• Sarzana (a bit inland, has the Fortezza di Sarzannello castle)

  • ...has some non-Italian food like Organic Poke, Miho Japanese, Kooka Japanese

  • every Saturday is a Slow Food market in Piazza Martiri?

  • # Gelateria Biagi - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020

  • # Hostaria da Nemo - outstanding Google reviews & very good Tripadvisor...looks good

  • Il Viandante - good Google reviews

  • Osteria Daivè - good Google reviews, slightly fancy but not overly so?

  • Morzillo truck food - sandwich truck with a cult following on Google & Tripadvisor

  • Focacceria Osteria Da Francesco - slightly outside town, very good Google & Tripadvisor

• Ameglia (the ~last town on the Ligurian coast before you get to Tuscany)

  • Hotel Monastero Santa Croce - a monastery that allows hotel guests, looks interesting?

  • ? Ristorante Locanda Pescarino Sapori di Terra e di Mare - in the Montemarcello "frazione" (another listing in the Most Beautiful Villages of Italy), rec'd Michelin, part of Le Figarole hotel

  • ? Osteria Mama si - in Marinella di Sarzana, which is actually the last town before Tuscany, very popular on Google & Tripadvisor, looks very nice

• in Cerri is the Arci Cerri "Dal Giova", an informal place rec'd Scatti di Gusto in 2016

• ...inland of many of the seaside towns if the Parco naturale regionale di Montemarcello-Magra-Vara, which has various footpaths through the peninsula and up Monte Caprione (some of the best views/sunsets are near the "Pugliola" area?)

The coast of Imperia and Savona provinces make up the "Riviera di Ponente" (Western Riviera), although both provinces also have some cool towns/sights in their interior inland:

Imperia Province

Most of the following towns are an hour or less from the French border (near Menton) --> check out this list from Scatti di Gusto too

• Ventimiglia - town right on the border

• Dolceaqua - nice town right near the French border on a river, a ways up from the coast

  • A Viassa - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2021

  • up the road in Isolabona: Agriturismo La Molenella - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2021

  • further up the road in Località Madonna Assunta/Pigna: Terme (hotel/restaurant) rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2021, Michelin Bib Gourmand

  • [Apricale & Perinaldo= borghi piu belli]

• Montegrosso Pian Latte - pretty far inland, not far from France's Mercantour Park

  • Osteria del Rododendro - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 & 2015

  • (in Mendatica:) Agriturismo Il Castagno - Via San Bernardo 39, 018-332-8718, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 & 2015

• Bordighera - along the coast, very close to Ventimiglia (the last major town before the French border)

  • Magiargè - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 & 2015, Michelin

  • outside town: Madonna della Neve - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 (but not 2015)

  • not far away in Ospedaletti: La Playa - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 & 2015

• Sanremo - where the rich and famous go to the beach; home of the annual Sanremo Music Competition

  • La Tavernetta - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 & 2015

  • Tortuga - Via Nino Bixio, 93a, 018-484-0307, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 & 2015

  • inland in Badalucco: Cian de Bià - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2015

  • [Seborga, Ceriana, Taggia = borghi piu belli]

• Imperia - on the coast, largest town

  • Osteria Didù - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2015

  • [Lingueglietta, Diana Castello, Cervo = borghi piu belli]

• Seborga - listed as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy

Savona Province

The next province over from Imperia, also not far from France

• Albenga - coastal town known for its towers

  • Osteria del Tempo Stretto - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014

  • da Puppo - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014

  • Casa del Gelato - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020

  • in nearby Alassio:

    • I Mattei - Viale Daniele Hanbury 132, 018-264-6680, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014 (and nearbly Laigueglia is listed as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy)

    • Nove al Villa della Pergola - rec'd Identita Golose

  • inland: Zuccarello, Colletta di Castelbianco, Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena = borghi piu belli

• Finale Ligure - resort town with some castles

  • Da Virginia - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014

  • Da Casetta - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014

  • La Gioiosa - restaurant/hotel rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014

  • Ai Cuattru Canti - Via Torcelli 22, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014, Lonely Planet

  • inland in Calice Ligure: Pastorino Gelateria - consistently on Dissapore's list of best gelaterie in Italy, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020

  • ...nearby Verezzi and Finalborgo are lised as among the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy

• Savona - capital of the region, on the coast...Italy Segreta has a nice guide

  • Vino e Farinata - Via Pia 15, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014

  • inland in Altare: Quintilio - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014

  • inland in Mallare: La Lanterna - Lacalità Panelli, 019-586-300, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014

Slow Food Liguria has a list of restaurants