Restaurants in Rome
The following are restaurants (and some other food places like gelaterie) in Rome recommended by various guidebooks, etc., organized by neighborhood, *** are especially recommended (mostly summarized on the main Rome page):
Campo de'Fiori / Ghetto
***Trattoria Settimio al Pellegrino - via del Pellegrino 117, W of Campo de'Fiori, 066-880-1978, 1:30-3, 8:30-11, closed Wed, Roman trattoria with long tradition, ~€35, rec'd by Gambero Rosso Terroir ("few places are more authentically Roman"), CN Traveler, and Katie Parla, who says it's got an "old school vibe" and praises the Montblanc, also rec'd by Elizabeth Minchilli; every thing is "casalinga" (homestyle) and they make gnocchi on Thursday, fish on Friday. (This place is so traditional that even "recent" Roman dishes like cacio e pepe and carbonara are shunned...truly a trip, and the couple who run the place are wonderful.)
***Il Forno Roscioli - Via dei Giubbonari 21 (SE of Campo), 06 687 5287, closed Sun, a deli/salami shop that doubles as a restaurant, Katie Parla rec's the pizza bianca, burrata (given to you in a huge plate), salumi/mortadella, pata negra, gnocchi, carbonara (the bacon in the carbonara is worth going for alone) and amatriciana although she warns against ordering other things; also rec'd by Time Out, CN Traveler, Gambero Rosso, Terroir, and Espresso, ~€35-45.
***Roscioli Caffè Pasticceria, nearby on Piazza Benedetto Cairoli 16 has wonderful coffee, great pastries, and some casual pasta dishes (we didn't try the pasta but I think it's the same/similar to that you can get at the main restaurant)
***Pasta Chef - Via dei Funari 21, near Fontana delle Tartarughe; great spot for takeout or on-the-go, see the Pasta Chef Monti review below for more info
??Luciano Cucina Italiana - opened 2018, rec'd Michelin for "creative reinterpretations of classic dishes" including carbonara by chef Luciano Monosilio, also rec'd An American In Rome, CN Traveler, Identità Golose, Erica Firpo in WaPo, Luciano Pignataro, Scatti di Gusto (who mention his alongside Roscioli's carbonara), Dissapore, Gambero Rosso
Shiroya - Japanese place rec'd Michelin
Ditirambo - Piazza della Cancelleria 74, near Campo de'Fiori, 06-687-1626, 1-3, 7:30-11:30, closed Mon lunch, 3 wks Aug, rec'd by Time Out, Frommer's (who calls it Rome's "best trattoria"), Gambero Rosso, TCI, we went there in 2010, it wasn't bad
Bruschetteria degli Angeli - Piazza B Cairoli 2, SE of Campo de'Fiori, bruschetta, pasta, steaks, 06-688-05-789, 12:30-3:30, 7:30-1:30, rec'd by Time Out, Lonely Planet.
Il Forno Campo de'Fiori - Vicolo del Gallo 14, best takeout pizza and breads in Campo de'Fiori, 06-688-06-662, 7:30-2:30, 5-8, closed Sun, rec'd by Time Out.
L'Insalata Ricca, Largo dei Chiavari, near Campo de'Fiori, awesome salad place, also at piazza Pasquino 72, 06-688-036-56, 12-4, 6-mid M-F, 12-mid Sat/Sun, rec'd by Time Out.
Piperno, Via Monte de' Cenci 9, near Campo de'Fiori, famous "Jewish Ghetto" restaurant, a bit expensive, 06-688-06-629, 1-2:30, 8-10:30, closed Mon, Sun eve, Aug, rec'd by Alice, CN Traveler, Fodor's and Frommer's; Katie Parla rec's the fritti.
Ba'Ghetto - Via del Portico d'Ottavia 57, rec'd by Puntarella Rossa
La Carbonara - Piazza Campo dei Fiori 23, 066-864-783, supposedly where carbonara pasta was invented, rec'd by Alice.
Renato e Luisa Quelli della Taverna - via dei Barbieri 25, between Campo de'Fiori and Largo Argentina, 066-869-660, closed Mon, only dinner, classics, ~€35-40, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, and Mangiarozzo.
Filetti di Baccala - Largo dei Librari 88, rec'd by Anthony Bourdain
Alice Pizzeria - big chain but Scatti di Gusto says they're good for pizza by the slice; they have 3 locations in this area alone (Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 35, Largo dei Librari 82, and Via del Portico d'Ottavia 7)
Supplizio - rec'd Eater
On Isola Tiburina (between Ghetto & Trastevere):
## Tiberino Ristorante Bar - via Ponte Quattro Capi 17-18, in 2015, this old-school bar hired chef Luca Mattana (who cooked in Michelin-starred restaurants) to create a "gastro-bistro" that makes simple but high-quality Roman classics (with a few fusion/Sardinia dishes), good TripAdvisor/Google reviews, rec'd Fodors and this blog
Sora Lella - on Isola Tiburina (between the Ghetto and Trastevere), old-school place rec'd by Anthony Bourdain
Other Food Places/Gelato
Antico Forno del Ghetto - Piazza Costaguti 30, 066-880-3012, closed afternoons on weekends, famous kosher breads
***Carapina Gelateria - Via dei Chiavari 37, 06-689-3843, Florentine gelateria that has one branch in Rome, seasonal flavors, including odd ones (like parmigiano, beer, and vinsanto), rec'd by Katie Parla, Amanda Ruggieri, on Puntarella Rossa's list in 2014...very nice, near Roscioli
Not recommended or recommended with reservations
Sora Margherita, Piazza delle Cinque Scole 30, Jewish Quarter, great cheap Roman Jewish cooking--highly recommended, get reservations early!, ~€20, 06-687-4216, 12:45-2:45, 8-11:30, closed Fri lunch, Sun, Aug, Sat (Apr-Sep) and Mon (Oct-Mar), rec'd by Espresso, Time Out, Lonely Planet, Mangiarozzo...but there are reports that it's gone downhill...(e.g. Katie Parla says it's now just a tourist trap)
Nona Betta - Via del Portico d'Ottavia 16, 066-880-6263, 349 6671620, kosher restaurant rec'd by Katie Parla, CN Traveler; also see this blog entry and The Rome Digest...we went there in 2016, it wasn't bad but not worth a return trip
Trattoria der Pallaro - near Campo de'Fiori, 22 euro fixed price meal of filling, simple home-style favorites, "you eat what we feed you"!, recommended by Rick Steves and Mangiarozzo, Largo del Pallaro 15, 12-3 and 7-mid, 06-6880-1488...a bit of a tourist trap but it can be fun
Pantheon / Piazza Navona (Campus Martius)
***Armando al Pantheon, Salita de' Crescenzi 31, one of the cheapest and best places near the Pantheon, ~€45-50, 06-688-03-034, 12.30-3, 7.15-11 M-F, 12.30-3 Sat, closed Aug, rec'd by Time Out, Gambero Rosso, Osterie d'Italia, Michelin, Fodors, CN Traveler, Amanda Ruggieri, and TCI; Katie Parla rec's the gricia and coda alla vaccinara, more at Rome Digest...one of the best places to eat in the historic center
?Matricianella - Via del Leone 2/3/4, near Parliament N of Pantheon, 066-832-100, closed Sun, simple place with Roman food with some Jewish Ghetto influence, great fritto misto (mixed fried food) and amatriciana; ~€25-40, rec'd by Time Out, Gambero Rosso, Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Puntarella Rossa, and Mangiarozzo.
??Retrobottega - Via della Stelletta 4 (N of Pantheon/Navona), a "food lab" (not just a "restaurant") with innovative food, see description/glowing review in this blogpost, closed Monday, open noon-midnight (so open in the afternoon—a rarity in Rome!), rec'd Michelin, this site, CN Traveler, Elizabeth Minchilli
??CiPASSO Bistrot - cool-looking place with outstanding Tripadvisor & Google reviews
Green T - upscale Chinese place (and teahouse) rec'd Michelin (Bib Gourmand)
Lo Zozzone, Via del Teatro Pace 32, just W of Piazza Navona, takeaway counter, specialty is white stuffed pizza, 06-688-08-575, 9-9 M-F, 9-11 S/S, closed Aug and Sun in off season, rec'd by Time Out.
Enoteca Corsi - Via del Gesù 87, lunch-only restaurant 3 blocks southeast of Pantheon near Gesu church, praised by many writers including Espresso, Frommer's and Time Out, great value M-Sat 12-15...but no longer what it once was?
Baffetto - known as one of the best Roman pizzerias. Via del Governo Vecchio 114 (west of Piazza Navona), 06-686-1617. Also Baffetto 2 at Piazza del Teatro di Pompeo (south of Piazza Navona near Campo de'Fiori), 06-682-10807. Open every evening but Tues 6:30 PM-12:30 AM and weekend lunch 12:30-3:30.
Capricci Siciliani - via di Panico 83, 066-873-666, 065-543-3823, W of Piazza Navona, rec'd by Gambero Rosso.
Grano - Piazza Rondanini 53, between Navona and Pantheon, inventive cuisine, ~€35-40, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Fodors...but Katie Parla reports some shady service charges for English speakers. It is thus recommended to boycott Grano until/unless they change this policy.
Il Desiderio Preso per la Coda - Vicolo della Palomba 23, just N of Pantheon, 066-830-7522, closed Saturday lunch and Sun, closed Aug, inventive modern food with an eye toward tradition as well, ~€35, rec'd by Gambero Rosso.
Alfredo e Ada - via dei Banchi Nuovi 14, W of Navona, rec'd by Mangiarozzo
Antica Trattoria Polese - Piazza Sforza Cesarini 40, W of Navona, rec'd by Mangiarozzo
Ristorante Casa Coppelle - Piazza delle Coppelle 49, 3-4 blocks N of Pantheon, 066-889-1707, 338-681-0585, www.casacoppelle.it, rec'd by Mangiarozzo
Grano - Piazza Rondanini 53, 066-819-2096, open daily, offers innovative takes on traditional dishes (e.g. cacio e pepe as risotto), rec'd by Gambero Rosso and Espresso.
Mater Terrae - fancy vegan/vegetarian organic/biodynamic restaurant on gorgeous terrace of the Raphael Hotel (overlooking much of the centro storico), €110 tasting menu or a la carte (pastas €22-24, secondi €22-26, lots of gluten-free options including tiramisu), rec'd Michelin, Puntarella Rossa, Gambero Rosso, TCI
(Pagliaccio - very expensive but 2 star Michelin restaurant, fusion Asian/Italian cuisine)
(La Rosetta - very expensive but good seafood)
Other Food Places (Gelato, etc.)
Gelateria Giolitti - a few blocks north of the Pantheon, lots of delicious flavors—they may not be the freshest, but they're fun. Via degli Uffici del Vicario 40, 06-699-1243. Open every day 7-2 am.
?Gelateria del Teatro - super-fresh gelato with innovative flavors west of Piazza Navona; if you get there early enough you can watch them make it. Via de San Simone 70 (off Via dei Coronari), 06-454-74880...it was great in ~2008-2010 but may have gotten less so lately (~2015), was on Puntarella Rossa's list in 2014, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Enoteca: Cul De Sac - Piazza di Pasquino 73, just SW of Piazza Navona, 066-880-1094, open every day (and late?), nice enoteca for wine but also lots of other small plates (including Greek, Lebanese, and Turkish food), long rec'd by Gambero Rosso and TCI.
Enoteca: Il Goccetto - Via dei Banchi Vecchi 14, W of Navona/Campo de' Fiori, 066-864-268, M-Sat 6-mid, also open T-Sat 11:30-4, (closed Mon lunch/Sun), vibrant enoteca, can eat for ~€10-20, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, TCI, and Katie Parla who calls it a "cult favorite among oenophiles"
***Gunther Rohregger Gelato @ Punto Gelato - Piazza Sant'Eustachio 47 (around the corner from the Pantheon), rec'd Gillian's Lists, An American in Rome...also another Punto Gelato between Campo de' Fiori and Ponte Sisto (via dei Pettinari 43), and the same gelato at The Taste Gelato near the Spanish Steps.
?Two Sizes - tiramisu and pastry shop just SW of Piazza Navona, very popular on TripAdvisor and Google
##ZUM Roma - ZUM stands for "Zucchero, Uova e Mascarpone", the main ingredients to tiramisu; they also have gluten-free tiramisu, rec'd by Punterella Rossa, Dissapore, The Roman Guy, Romeing, just SW of Piazza Navona
Trevi Fountain / Spanish Steps / Piazza del Popolo (Tridente)
***VyTA Enoteca del Lazio (Palatium Enoteca Regionale) - via Frattina 94 (near via del Corso, NE of Parliament and W of Spanish Steps), 066-920-2132, closed Sun, Lazio favorites (all ingredients are local to Lazio, since it's run by the Lazio Regional Food Authority), ~€30-40, rec'd by Amanda Ruggeri, Time Out, Gambero Rosso, Osterie d'Italia, and Espresso. --> name changed to "VyTA" in 2015, not sure if it's the same anymore
?Alla Frasca - Via della Dataria 93 (just S of Trevi Fountain), sandwich/takeaway place that makes most of its stuff from organic ingredients, some people say they have good Porchetta, see this 2013 blogpost for more
La Campana - Vicolo della Campana 18 (S of Ara Pacis), 06 687 5273, closed Mon, rec'd by Katie Parla for its fettucini with truffles, and being one of the few restaurants open Sunday evening, also rec'd by Amanda Ruggeri although she and the New York Times discuss how it's often uneven ~€30 (this CH agrees).
'Gusto (also nearby L'Osteria, run by same people) Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9, near Ara Pacis, trendy/fancy but good, 1-3, 7:30-mid, 06-322-6273, rec'd by Frommer's, Food and Wine, and Gambero Rosso.
Nanà Vini e Cucina - Via della Panetteria 37, near Trevi Fountain, 066-919-0750, closed Mon, both land and sea dishes, ~€50, rec'd by Gambero Rosso.
Babette - via Margutta 1, S of Piazza del Popolo, 063-211-559, open every day, seasonal specials, lunch buffet €10, weekends €25, dinner is ~€50, rec'd by Gambero Rosso and Espresso.
Galleria Colonna - Galleria Alberto Sordi 53, not far from Trevi, open every day from 11 to midnight, rec'd by Gambero Rosso and Espresso
Il Gabriello - via Vittoria 51, 066-994-0810, www.ilgabriello.it, closed Mon lunch, Sun, near Spanish Steps, rec'd by Mangiarozzo
Vic's, Vicolo della Torretta 60, NW of Trevi, another good salad place, 06-687-1445, 12:30-3, 7:30-11, closed Sun, Mon lunch, 2 wks Aug, rec'd by Time Out.
?Marzapane - a bit north of Piazza del Popolo, a somewhat-fancy place but with relatively simple preparations, rec'd Michelin, Gambero Rosso, Scatti di Gusto, An American in Rome (although she laments the loss of founding chef Alba Esteve Ruiz), Casa Mia Tours
Assagia - tasting menu spot near the Piazza del Popolo, rec'd CN Traveler
Other Food Places (Gelato, etc.)
San Crispino Gelateria - a more "snooty" place (no tastings, no cones, less flavors) but the gelato is fantastic and always fresh/seasonal. Honey vanilla San Crispino flavor is delicious and nearly always available. Near Trevi Fountain, via della Panetteria 42. They have a couple other franchise outposts, including at Fiumicino Terminal A and Piazza della Maddalena 3 north of the Pantheon. Noon-12:30 AM or 1:30 AM on Fri/Sat, closed Tues in autumn/winter, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
?Gelateria Corona - Largo Arenula 27 (Largo Argentina, south of Pantheon), 06-688-08-054, rec'd TCI (including for pistacchio), Katie Parla says it has better granita than even the best places in Palermo! Caveat emptor: they also have some of the worst service in Rome!
Pasticceria e Gelateria Gracchi - via di Ripetta 261, a branch of the Prati gelateria, very close to Piazza del Popolo, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Not recommended or with reservations:
(Dal Cavalier) Gino in vicolo Rosini, Vicolo Rosini 4, near Parliament building N of Pantheon, NOT recommended: while it's a cute, popular place (paintings all over the walls, a fan that's been running since the Fascist days, etc.), we found that their food was of poor quality (e.g. almost no cheese in the cacio e pepe, clearly canned mushrooms used in the carbonara), ~€30-40, 06-687-3434, 1-2.45, 8-10.45 closed Sun, Aug, rec'd by Time Out and Osterie d'Italia.
Near and North of Termini
Esquilino (SW of Termini, near Santa Maria Maggiore)
Hang Zhou, Via San Martino ai Monti 33C, near Santa Maria Maggiore, good, inexpensive Chinese food, 06-487-2732, 12-3, 7-mid, closed Aug, no reservations taken, rec'd by Time Out.
?Trattoria Monti, Via di San Vito 13, near Santa Maria Maggiore, features food from Le Marche, popular with foreigners, tortello with egg and truffles is rec'd, ~€35, 06-446-6573, 12:45-2:45, 7:45-11, closed Sun eve, Mon, 1 wk Easter, 3 wks Aug, 1 wk Sep, rec'd by Time Out, Fodor's, Gambero Rosso, Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Michelin; Katie Parla rec's the sformatini (a bit like a flan).
Indian Fast Food, Via Mamiani 11, Piazza/Metro Vittorio, Rome's only Indian takeaway, 06-446-0792, 11-4, 5-10:30, lunch starts 12 on Sun, rec'd by Time Out.
Africa, Via Gaeta 26, just NW of Termini, Eritrean cuisine, ~€20, 06-494-1077, 9:30am-mid, closed Mon, rec'd by Time Out.
El Norteño - Via Castro Pretorio 26, just northeast of Termini off Via Marsala, Peruvian/Andean food, 12-11:30, 06-493-81722.
Maharajah - Via dei Serpenti 124, 064-747-144, SW of Termini near Cavour metro stop, Indian food, rec'd by Gambero Rosso
?Da Danilo - Via Petrarca 13 (near Vittorio Emanuele metro), 067-720-0111, Katie Parla recommends for reasonably-priced Roman cuisine, especially carbonara (seconded by this blogger) although she warns of worsening service in late 2012, also rec'd by Elizabeth Minchilli, Amanda Ruggieri, CN Traveler
(Agata e Romeo - very expensive but good modern twist on Roman food, lost its Michelin star in 2015)
Mia Market - Via Panisperna 225, 064-782-4611, miamarket.blogspot.com, Lazio province cafe/food shop but also serves food, rec'd by Katie Parla
##Mercato Centrale - right by/in Termini, features a wide range of food products (bread, pizza, trapizzino, pasta, gelato) from some of Rome's best food creators; for more see An American in Rome, Elizabeth Minchilli, Katie Parla, and Eater; Pier Daniele Seu's pizzas are lauded by Gambero Rosso, Dissapore, and Luciano Pignataro
?Radici Pizzicheria Salentina - spot serving take-away and sit-down casual bites (sandwiches, burrata, etc.) from Salento (in Puglia), great reviews on TripAdvisor and Google.
San Lorenzo/Pigneto District (NE/SE of Termini)
***Tram Tram, Via dei Reti 44/46, San Lorenzo district, mix of Roman and dishes from Puglia/Sicily, ~€30-40, 06-490-416, 12:30-3:30, 7:30-11:30, closed Mon, 1 wk Aug, rec'd by Time Out, Fodor's, Frommer's and Osterie d'Italia.
Pommidoro - Piazza dei Sanniti 44, San Lorenzo district, 064-452-692, 064-452-952, closed Sun, old restaurant now popular with intellectuals & artists, "rigorously Roman", ~€45, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia and Espresso
Trattoria da Marcello (San Lorenzo district), Via dei Campani 12, 06-446-3311, cheap but great place, sign just says "Cucina", ~€18, 7:30-11:30 PM M-F, closed Aug, rec'd by Time Out.
Arancia Blu - Frommers calls it "Rome's best vegetarian cuisine"
?I Porchettoni - great value place, Ariccia-style porchetta, rec'd by Katie Parla, also one in Pigneto (Via del Pigneto 68, as of 2018 called "Trattoria Pigneto" --> new management? ...they do seem to still have porchetta "Cestino di Ariccia", etc.)
#Gelateria del Pigneto - rec'd by Puntarella Rossa, Dissapore named one of the top 100 gelaterie in Italy in 2017, Katie Parla, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Fattori Gelato - Viale Ippocrate 114, near the Sapienza university, rec'd by Puntarella Rossa
?Il Capriccio di Carla - Katie Parla rec's for natural gelato and tiramisu
#Gelateria San Lorenzo - natural gelato shop rec'd Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Bar Marani - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020, old school place, very fresh fruit from local farming collective
Near Barberini/Villa Borghese/Via Veneto
?Hostaria Romana - Via del Boccaccio 1 (near Piazza Barberini), rec'd by Amanda Ruggieri as her favorite "no-frills trattoria"
Caffetteria Borromini - Via XX Settembre 124, near Barberini, lunch-only fast food deals, 12-3 M-F, 06-488-0866, rec'd by Time Out.
Cantina Cantarini - Piazza Sallusto 12, just east of Via Veneto area, le Marche food, ~€35, 06-485-528, 06-474-3341, rec'd by Time Out.
Osteria del Rione - Via Basento 20, north, walking distance from Villa Borghese, €18 fixed price bargain, 12:30-2:30, 7-11, closed Sun, Sat lunch, Aug, 1 wk Dec, 06-855-1057, rec'd by Time Out.
***Colline Emiliane - near Via Veneto off Piazza Barberini, wonderful Emilia-Romagna cuisine, Frommer's says it is "about the best pasta you'll find in Rome", rec'd by Michelin and TCI (and Katie Parla says "it lives up to the hype"), T-Sun 12:45-2:45PM, T-Sat 7:45-10:45PM, Via Avignonesi 22, 06-4817538
Piccolo Abruzzo - Northest of Via Veneto near Villa Borghese, good Abruzzo cuisine, especially salamis, Via Sicilia 237, Alessandro 328-835-1154 or 06-42820176, 12-16, 19-1:30, open Sun www.piccoloabruzzo.it Also check out the Brancaleone osteria/pizzeria across the street, run by the same family, Via Sicilia 170, 06-4871776.
Trattoria Cadorna dal 1947 - via Raffaele Cadorna 12, 064-827-061, closed Sun lunch, Sat, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia, old, classic dishes
Trimani Il Wine Bar - via Cernaia 37b, 064-469-630, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin, TCI, Mangiarozzo.
Osteria Barberini - Via della Purificazione 21 (about a block NW of Piazza Barberini), 06 474 3325, www.osteriabarberini.com, small family-run place that serves traditional Roman food (and apparently truffles), rec'd by Ristoranti di Roma
(Da Claudio) Il Localino - Via Lazio 22, 06 4202 0218, seafood, rec'd by Elizabeth Minchilli, chef used to be at La Gensola
Pro Loco Pinciano - rec'd CN Traveler
north of the park: Sapori del Lord Byron at Hotel Lord Byron - expensive place rec'd Michelin
***Gelateria I Caruso - Via Collina 13 (not far from Republica metro), 06 42918674, open 10-mid, rec'd by Gambero Rosso and Amanda Ruggieri as a great "secret" for such flavors as extra-dark chocolate (which is unbelievably creamy), pistacchio, and fragola...worth schlepping out to this neighborhood for the chocolate alone! (also another branch in Prati), on Puntarella Rossa's list in 2014
Gelateria Bartocci - Via Alessandria 145 (SE of Borghese), 069-969-5535, rec'd TCI
?Gelateria Syberia - Via Montebello 46 (near Termini, NE of Diocletian Baths), rec'd TCI especially for pear, cinnamon, and dark chocolate
***Gelateria Come il Latte - Via Silvio Spaventa 24/26, started by an ex-Caruso employee, rec'd NYT, Elizabeth Minchilli, An American in Rome, on Puntarella Rossa's list in 2014, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Near Colosseum (Monti/Celio)
***L'Asino d'Oro - Via del Boschetto 73, Monti, 06 4891 3832, Umbrian-inspired food, rec'd by chowhounds, Osterie d'Italia, Slow Food Planet, TCI, Elizabeth Minchilli and Katie Parla; €12 fixed price lunch T-Fri is an absolute steal! Tasty and flavorful, a great combination of tradition and creativity.
Alchemilla - Via di San Giovanni in Laterano 220, in Celio E of Colosseum on the way to San Giovanni Laterano cathedral, 067-720-3202, closed Sun, only open for dinner, 9 different menus between €20 and €40; reservations are wise, rec'd by Gambero Rosso and Espresso.
Da Domenico - Via di San Giovanni in Laterano 134, also in Celio, 067-759-0225, closed Sun eve, Mon, Roman specials, ~€40.
Mother India - Indian food on Via dei Serpenti 148 (Monti district near Cavour metro), 06-474-0777
Sitar - Indian food, not far from Mother India, Via Cavour 256, 06-890-26710
Dall’Antò - Via Madonna dei Monti 16, old school bread / chickpea breads rec'd by Katie Parla
La Barrique - via del Boschetto 41B, 064-782-5953, closed Sat lunch, Sun Gambero Rosso rec's the cold plates at this inexpensive enoteca
?Marlina - rec'd The Roman Foodie (especially for an inexpensive lunch)
Aromaticus - rec'd TCI, Slow Food Planet
?Cucina Eliseo - firstname.lastname@example.org, restaurant in the Teatro Eliseo which opened in 2017, focused on "km0" locavore ingredients, relatively short menu, rec'd Gambero Rosso, TCI, this blog has more (in Italian)
#Boccacciello Bistrot - place where almost everything is in little jars, mostly Neapolitan flavors, take-away or eat there, slow food/km0 (locavore), rec'd TCI, Gambero Rosso, Puntarella Rossa, Luciano Pignataro, Scatti di Gusto, more on this blog
Bio Eno Macelleria di Abbattista Raffaele - rec'd Slow Food Planet, high-quality meats, wines, and other organic goods
Monti Bio --> closed?
?Grazie a Dio è Venerdì - casual eatery with pizzas & pastas, the name means TGIF
?Il Girasole - Via del Boschetto 28, looks a bit touristy?...there's another one at Via Rosa Raimondi Garibaldi that is more popular, including with Luciano Pignataro
?Le Tavernelle - reasonably popular on Google & TripAdvisor, one of those places that has photos of famous people who visited
?? Pasta Imperiale
Trattoria Valentino - rec'd Elizabeth Minchilli for "very simple, straightforward, delicious food", closed Sun
Enoteca Cavour 313 - rec'd Slow Food Planet
Al Vino Al Vino - rec'd Slow Food Planet
***Pasta Chef Monti (aka "al42") - Via Baccina 42, one of two locations. At one point this place was the #1 restaurant in Rome on TripAdvisor, and after visiting it, we know why: great Roman classic pasta dishes (including gluten free!) and yummy salads, quickly prepared at reasonable prices. They also have daily specials (we loved their lasagna). Oh, and did I mention that they're open all afternoon ("orario continuato")? Since it's counter service, it's great for a meal on the go (or for takeout). Rec'd by Elizabeth Minchilli, Lonely Planet.
Alle Carrette - Monti pizza place rec'd CN Traveler
Not recommended or recommended with reservations:
Urbana 47 - Via Urbana 47, 064-788-4006, Lazio-only "kilometer zero" (locavore) food, also has reasonably hearty breakfasts, rec'd by Roma nell Piato, Fodor's, Katie Parla (NY Times article), Slow Food Planet, TCI and Elizabeth Minchilli. We ate here in July 2014 and thought it was good but overpriced (and with relatively few gluten-free options). When we came back in July 2016 we found that not only were there even fewer gluten-free options (~2 on the whole menu) but the service was surprisingly unprofessional, especially for Italy.
Il Bocconcino, via Ostilia 23, about 2 blocks E of the Colosseum, Roman classics and slow food favorites, ~€28, 06 7707 9175, 12.30-3.30, 7.30-11.30, closed W, 3wks Aug, rec'd by Time Out, Gambero Rosso, Osterie d'Italia (...as of 2013, no longer in Gambero Rosso or Osterie d'Italia), but still rec'd by Lonely Planet
Luzzi, Via Celimontana 1, cheap, popular trattoria—BUT Monks had bad experience (mediocre/overpriced food, bad service, although good mixed salad), ~€22, 06-709-6332, 12-3, 7-mid, closed W, 2 wks Aug, rec'd by Time Out, Slow Travel...Amanda Ruggieri gives it a lukewarm review, saying it's the "best of the bad" places nearby
Taverna dei Fori Imperiali - Via Madonna die Monti 16; was once good but in 2011 Amanda Ruggieri says it had gone downhill...still Elizabeth Minchili recommends it (more discussion here), as do other guidebooks like Conde Nast Traveler (which admits that quality can vary from night to night) and Gillian's Lists, also see this blog. We went here in 2016 and thought it was nice but not worth a repeat visit.
Taverna Romana - Via della Madonna dei Monti 79, rec'd NYT, Gillian's Lists, Elizabeth Minchili; also see this blogpost...note that it changed ownership after 2010 but most reviews seem to still be positive. We went here in 2016 and thought it was decent trattoria cooking but not worth a special trip.
Hosteria La Vacca M'briaca - relatively nice trattoria (when we went here in 2016 it was mostly Italians and had a nice coda alla vaccinara) but not worth a special trip
Terre e Domus (formerly Enoteca Provincia Romana) - Largo del Foro Traiano 82, 066-994-0273, *was* rec'd by Slow Food Planet, Lonely Planet, Katie Parla, Elizabeth Minchilli, more at Rome Digest ...re-opened as Terre e Domus in 2014 but as of 2017 Katie Parla no longer recommended due to bad reports from readers
***Pizzarium, Via della Meloria 43, 063-974-5416, closed Sun, open 9-9, good pizza, near Vatican Museums, 06-397-45-416, 9-10:30, closed Sun, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Time Out and Katie Parla, who rec's the pizza rossa, fritti, and porchetta (also featured on Anthony Bourdain's "The Layover")...apparently the line is shorter before 12:30, between 4-6, or around 8:30.
Angrypig Birretta e Porchetta - Scatti di Gusto rec's for Cioli (Ariccia-style) porchetta
Bono Bottega Nostrana Street Food - sandwich shop (that also has salads, meat/cheese plates, fruit juices, etc with outstanding Google & TA reviews
Borghiciana Pastificio Artigianale - popular on Google & TA, looks like a casual place with old-school recipes
Not sure but some people like:
Dal Toscano al Girarrosto - via Germanico 58, 063-972-5717, just N of San Pietro, closed Mon, Tuscan food, rec'd by Gambero Rosso.
Old Bridge Gelateria - Viale dei Bastioni di Michelangelo 5 just N of Vatican, closed Mon, open late (~2 am)...might be the best gelato *close* to the Vatican but there is better gelato not too far away in Prati (see below)
Prati (N of Vatican)
?L'Arcangelo - Via Giuseppe Gioachino Belli 59, N of Castel Sant'Angelo, 063-210992, 333-762-2362, closed Sun, traditional Roman dishes but also other innovations like foie gras menu, fixed price for €55, ~€60 if off menu, rec'd by Time Out, Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin (as of 2020), CN Traveler (who liked the meatballs, cod fish panzanella, tagliolini with anchovies, cod, and quail), TCI, and Katie Parla who recommends the suppli’, cacio e unto, and amatricana ...and the gnocchi (on Thursdays), more at Rome Digest
Osteria dell'Angelo, Via G Bettolo 32, in Prati district near Ottaviano metro, good Roman traditional dishes, lunch ~€20, fixed price dinner €25-€30, 06-372-9470, 12:30-2:30, 8-11, closed Mon/Sat lunch, Sun, 2 wks Aug, rec'd by Time Out, Osterie d'Italia, and the New York Times.
Panificio Bonci - Via Trionfale 36, 063-973-4457, celebrity baker (who founded Pizzarium, see above) sells bread and baked goods, plus they sometimes have great Porchetta from Vito Bernabei says Katie Parla
Ristorante Cacio e Pepe - Via Giuseppe Avezzana 11, supposedly has good eponymous dish, rec'd by Amanda Ruggieri, Puntarella Rossa, CN Traveler (who say the carbonara, metballs, chicory, potatoes, and sachertorte are also good), Goop (who mention that nights & weekends are less crowded than weekday lunch)
Vuliò Puglia - place that specializes in street food from Italy's Puglia region, especially open-faced sandwiches, gets outstanding Google & TripAdvisor reviews
[Romeo Chef & Baker - Via Silla 26A, 063-211-0120, Roscioli family recently opened this with the folks who run Glass, a hit with foodies --> might be closed?]
Mexican: La Cucaracha. There are several Mexican restaurants in Rome. Most are overpriced for mediocre food, although La Cucaracha is fairly good. Lots of traditional and spicy Mexican fare to choose from, as well as a nice cocktail menu. Via Mocenigo 10a, at Via Candia (Vatican Museum area, easy to integrate as a stop while sightseeing in Rome), 06-397-463-73; open every evening.
Maledetti Toscani - a bit further north in Prati, mostly Tuscan dishes, rec'd CN Traveler
Gelaterie and such
Gelateria dei Gracchi - great gelato in the Prati neighborhood near the Vatican, just south of the Lepanto metro stop, rec'd by Gambero Rosso's Gelaterie d'Italia 2018 (more in this 2017 article). via dei Gracchi 272, 06-321-6668.
La Riserva della Neve - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Neve di Latte - Via Federico Cesi 1, branch of Flaminio gelateria, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Al Settimo Gelo - Via Vodice, 21A, a bit of a schlep north (12 minute walk from Lepanto metro) but worth it for some great flavors, including a chocolate sorbetto that is so creamy you'd think it has cream, but mostly known for its unusual flavor combinations, rec'd by TCI, Lonely Planet, Elizabeth Minchilli, Puntarella Rossa's list in 2014, Gambero Rosso in 2017, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Sciascia Caffè - Via Fabio Massimo 80/A, Katie Parla says it's the best coffee in Rome
Outside Central Tourist Attractions
## Da Enzo al 29 - Roman specialties and locavore ("Km0") ingredients, rec'd by Puntarella RossaTrastevere, rec'd Luciano Pignataro, Puntarella Rossa, CN Traveler, Elizabeth Minchilli (who says it's one of the few Trastevere places she recommends)
***Otaleg - outpost of the Monteverde gelateria, great, innovative flavors
?Seu Pizza Illuminati - rec'd various places including CN Traveler
Eggs - interesting place that serves most things (including their classic carbonara) in little jars, rec'd CN Traveler
La Gatta Mangiona, Via Ozanam 30, pretty far SW (really in Monteverde, not Trastevere), take #8 tram from Largo Argentina to piazza San Giovanni di Dio, 06-534-6702, ~€25-30, 7:45-11:30 PM, closed Mon, Time Out calls it "Rome's best pizzeria," halfway between chewy Neapolitan and crispy Roman style; also rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, TCI; Katie Parla rec's the fritti.
Sisini, Via San Francesco a Ripa 137, Time Out recommends their takeaway pizza and roast chicken, 06-589-7110, 9-10, closed Sun, 3wks Aug.
?Taverna Trilussa - Via del Politeama 23, 065-818-918, restaurant highly rec'd by Marco Trombetti, supposedly better than Da Felice! Also rec'd by Rick Steves, this blog post and by Puntarella Rossa...Amanda Ruggeri says it's good but with some caveats
Bir & Fud - Via Benedetta 23, 065-894-016, only dinner, open every day, "a temple to pizza", also good pastries, beers, ~€20-25, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia, Gambero Rosso and Espresso, but Katie Parla says their "wonky" pizzas are bad
Glass Hosteria - Vicolo de' Cinque 58, 065833-5903, closed Mon, only dinner, "fine dining" experience, fixed price menus €60-75, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin, Frommers.
Ai Bozzi Da Giovanni - Piazza Giuditta Tavani Arquati 107, rec'd by Mangiarozzo
Ai Spaghettari - Piazza San Cosimato 58/60, rec'd by Mangiarozzo
Da Lucia - Vicolo del Mattonato 2, rec'd by Mangiarozzo
?Roma Sparita - Piazza di Santa Cecilia 24, 065-800-757, Katie Parla rec's their cacio e pepe (as do chowhounds) and gricia...but says their service has gone markedly downhill, as has the quality of all but the cacio e pepe (seconded by this blogger's update)...the theory is that after they were featured on Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations", they let quality slip, etc.
Da Augusto - Piazza de' Renzi 15, 06 580 3798, line out the door (no reservations or even wait list!), see this blog entry, one chowhound praised especially the tripe and tiramisu...although it's now not what it once was?
Osteria la Gensola - Piazza della Gensola 15, 065-816-312, open every day, Sicilian food focusing on seafood, a bit expensive (€50-60, menu for €42), rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso Fodor's, The Rome Digest...this blogger says it's "alone...worth the trip back to Rome", more photos in this blog post
?Trattoria degli Amici - (not to be confused with Osteria degli Amici in Testaccio) Piazza di Sant'Egidio 6, 065-806-033, closed Sun eve, simple pasta with seasonal food, ~€25-35, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Osterie d'Italia
?Da Teo - Piazza dei Ponziani 7, 065-818-355, rec'd by Katie Parla, Ost
Primo Sale - Circonvallazione Clodia 13A (in Vittoria, just N of Trastevere), 06 3975 4772, rec'd by Slow Food, Roma Nel Piatto, menu changes with seasons/market
also La Tavernaccia da Bruno, www.latavernacciaroma.com, Via Panfilo Castaldi, 12 ...??
Osteria Fernanda - a bit fancy/haute cuisine (it's the kind of place with foams and spheres), rec'd CN Traveler
Antico Arco - Piazzale Aurelio 7, 065-815-274, a bit expensive/haute cuisine (most known for its tasting menu but they also have a la carte), rec'd by Fodor's, Time Out, Michelin, CN Traveler, Frommers, this blog gives a report from 2018
Fior di Luna (Fiordiluna) Gelato - Puntarella Rossa says it's one of the best gelaterie in Rome, rec'd also Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Gelato: Mela e Cannella - Via Oderisi da Gubbio 71, rec'd by Swide, Puntarella Rossa, Dissapore (Dissapore named one of the top 100 gelaterie in Italy in 2017)
Pianostrada Laboratoriodicucina - Puntarella Rossa and Katie Parla rec's for salads, sandwiches, cured meats and cheese...and says to save room for dessert, this blogpost and this other blog have more photos
#La Gourmandise - Dissapore named one of the top 100 gelaterie in Italy in 2017, also on Puntarella Rossa's gelato list, Gambero Rosso's Gelaterie d'Italia 2018 and Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020 "3 coni"
Gelato Giuffrè - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Testaccio and Aventino
(**)Da Felice - renowned for having some of the best Roman food in the city, especially cacio e pepe (pasta with pecorino and pepper), they feature everyday favorites as well as a rotating menu of daily specials. Don't miss the tiramisu, either. In Testaccio, Via Mastro Giorgio 29, 06-574-6800, make reservations early. Recommended by Time Out, Gambero Rosso, Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Michelin (2015 Bib Gourmand), Mangiarozzo, Zagat. --> note: in 2012, we were a little bit disappointed in the cacio e pepe, and there are some grumblings online about them losing their mojo
Né Arte Né Parte - via Luca della Robbia 15, in Testaccio, 065-750-279, closed Mon, traditional Roman food, ~€30-35, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia.
?Checchino dal 1887 - Via di Monte Testaccio 30, 065-743-816, closed Mon/Sun, cool underground, somewhat fancy Roman specials like the "quinto quarto" dishes (trippa, pajata, coratella), tasting menus between €45-65 or ~€55-60 a la carte, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin, TCI, Fodors, Time Out, CN Traveler
Osteria degli Amici - (not to be confused with Trattoria degli Amici in Trastevere) Via Nicola Zabaglia 25, rec'd CN Traveler, An American in Rome, Goop, does traditional Roman dishes but also interesting twists like Tuscan pici
Piccolo Alpino, Via Orazio Antinori 5, Testaccio, no-frills pizzeria/trattoria popular with locals, ~€18, 06-574-1386, 12:30-2:30, 6-11, closed Mon, rec'd by Time Out.
Remo, Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice 44, Testaccio, Time Out says it has the best bruschetta and Roman-style pizza in Rome, ~€18, 06-574-6270, 7 PM - 1 AM, closed Sun, 3wks Aug, also rec'd by Fodor's.
Tuttifrutti, Via Luca della Robbia 3A, Time Out calls this "Testaccio's best-value dining experience," seasonal favorites from around Italy, ~€30, 06-575-7902, 8-11:30 PM, closed Sun, 3wks Aug.
***Flavio al Velavevodetto - Via dei Monte Testaccio 97, 06 574 4194, the chef used to work at Da Felice, Katie Parla rec's for Roman food (good cacio e pepe, amatriciana, and other classic Roman dishes) as well as the fried lamb chops and tiramisu. Like Checchino, it's built into Monte Testaccio so you can see the broken amphorae. Carlo Petrini, founder of Slow Food, apparently calls this his favorite place in Rome. BUT as of late 2012/early 2013, there are warning signs: Katie Parla says she's heard of quality suffering, and this blog agrees...but as of December 2014 she says it's "...more than just rebounded. It has surpassed its earlier reputation...", also rec'd by Amanda Ruggieri ...we went there in 2016 and really enjoyed it
?Agustarello - Via Giovanni Branca 100, 065-746-585, closed Mon, Katie Parla rec's their gricia (and cacio e pepe); also known for its offal dishes, more at The Rome Digest, also rec'd by New York Times as a "great meal for the budget-conscious traveller", CN Traveler
?00100 - Via Giovanni Branca 88, known for the trapazzino (pizza bianca with tomato+offal/meat sauce), rec'd by Katie Parla who says get there when it opens at 1230 for no line, also Osterie d'Italia
Mordi e Vai - Via B. Franklin 12, Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio, Box No. 15, also known for trapazzino
Pizzeria Da Remo - Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice 44, 065-746-270, rec'd by Katie Parla
Volpetti - butcher/sandwich/alimentari place rec'd by Anthony Bourdain, CN Traveler
Perilli a Testaccio - Via Marmorata 39, 065-742-415, closed Wed, rec'd by several chowhounds (but conflicting reviews?), Fodor's, and Espresso, Minchili rec's the carbonara, amatricana and pagliata, CN Traveler
?? Piatto Romano - via Giovanni Battista Bodoni 62, simple but fresh dishes at this testaccio osteria, rec'd CN Traveler (who like the pajata), Katie Parla (who likes the salt cod roasted with fruit and various Roman classics that change daily), NYT's Jason Horowitz, Eater
Court Delicati, Viale Aventino 39, Circo Massimo metro, Chinese with some Thai and Indonesian dishes, ~€22, 06-574-6108, 12-3, 7:30-11, closed Mon, Aug, rec'd by Time Out.
Il Gelato di Claudio Torce ("Il Gelato Fantasia") - viale Aventino 59, Circo Massimo metro, 11-10 every day, see above for more
Trapizzino - rec'd Scatti di Gusto
Romeo Chef&Baker - rec'd Scatti di Gusto --> closed??
Trattoria Pennestri - near Piramide, opened 2017, husband and wife team (used to work at Don Alfonso), updated trattoria/classics (similar to SantoPalato), rec’d Lonely Planet, Rome by Mouth, American in Rome, Michelin (Bib Gourmand), Testaccina, Fodors, The Chosen Table, Dissapore, Scatti di Gusto, Puntarella Rossa, Luciano Pignataro, Gambero Rosso
Osteria Fratelli Mori - rec'd CN Traveler as "upgraded" neighborhood osteria, looks nice
(Also see Appian Way page for restaurants near there, including Osteria del Velodromo Vecchio)
Al Ristoro degli Angeli, Via Luigi Orlando 2, near Garbatella metro stop in Ostiense, good, inventive, ~€35, 06-514-36-020, 8-11.30 PM, closed Sun, Aug, and 1wk Sept, rec'd by Time Out, Espresso, TCI, 2015 Michelin Bib Gourmand, Anthony Bourdain
??Altrove Ristorante - bright, modern place with casual lunches and more fancy dinners, a bit of a fusion "melting pot", mostly organic ingredients, rec'd CN Traveler, Forbes, Scatti di Gusto, Gambero Rosso, Garbatella neighborhood
Zampagna, Via Ostiense 179, near San Paolo metro/church, lunch only place famed for great Roman food/meat, ~€20, 12:30-2:30, closed Sun, Aug, 06-574-2306, rec'd by Time Out, Lonely Planet, Mangiarozzo.
also near San Paolo metro/church is an outpost of Il Gelato di Claudio Torce - Viale Guglielmo Marconi 445, 10-11 every day, see above for more
Da Vittorio - Via Mario Musco 29, E of Marconi metro, 065-408-272, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia
Dar Moschino - Piazza Benedetto Brin 5, S of Garbatella metro, 065-139-473, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia, classic Roman dishes, Roma Nel Piatto
Le Tre Zucche - Via Guglielmo Mengarini 43 in Portuense neighborhood, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, TCI
Taberna Recina - Via Elvia Recina 22, W of Re di Roma metro, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Osterie d'Italia, menu changes daily, Wed/Fri based on fish
Domenico dal 1968 - via Satrico 23, NW of Re di Roma or SE of Caracalla Baths, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin (2015 Bib Gourmand), Mangiarozzo
Ar Grottino Der Traslocatore - Largo delle Sette Chiese 2, Garbatella, 065-141-261, rec'd by Alessio for pajata, casareccia/cuciana romana
Osteria Giuda Ballerino - Largo Appio Claudio 346 (near Via Tuscolana / Giulio Agricola metro), 067-158-4807
Roberto e Loretta (dal 1970) - Via Saturnia 18 (not far from Re di Roma metro), 067-729-1037, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia --> we went there, it has a number of southern-inspired dishes, overall good food but not worth a detour
?Sforno - Via Statilio Ottato 110 (near Subaugusta metro, N of Cinecittà), 06 71546118, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia for pizza, e.g. they have a cacio e pepe pizza!
?Osteria Bonelli - Viale dell’Acquedotto Alessandrino 172, in Tor Pignattara (near Parco degli Acquadotti), rec'd Katie Parla, Elizabeth Minchilli, Luciano Pignataro (who says "you can't find a better quality/price ratio"), this site
***SantoPalato - great place for Roman classics with a twist, including amazing trippa alla romana, run by a young female chef, not far from Re di Roma metro, rec'd by many including CN Traveler
near Ciampino: Tenuta di Fiorano and Fattoria di Fiorano - the descendents (both in land & blood) of a once-storied winery/winemaker who was one of the first to produce organic wines
Il Gelato di Claudio Torce - Viale dell'Aeronautica 105, Laurentina metro near EUR, 11-9 every day, see above for more (also another location at viale Europa 134/136 in the heart of EUR), Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Pasticceria Gelateria Croquembouche - Via dell'Arte 42/44 (EUR Fermi), rec'd TCI (esp. for cream & chocolate gelato, millefoglie, and Sachertorte), gluten-free bakery, also has sugar-less and vegan desserts, 066-465-1062, email@example.com, 9 AM - 10 PM every day
Gelateria Splash - Via Euralio 104 (between Furio Camillo and Coli Albani metros), rec'd TCI
Gelatario - Via Tuscolana 325 (near Furio Camillo not far from Parco della Caffarella), on Puntarella Rossa's list in 2014, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Premiata Gelateria Tedesco & Hauser - near Colli Albani metro in Tuscolana, Gambero Rosso in 2017, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
I Gemelli Gelato - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
I Mannari - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020 (very close to I Gemelli)
L'officina del gelato & bakery - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020 (waaay south, just outside the annulare), also has American-style baked goods
La Gelateria di Giulio - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
...for really far south, check out the Lazio page for Castelli Romani
?Il Quinto Quarto - Via della Farnesina 13, NE of Stadio Olimpico, 063-338-768, closed Sun, dinner only, "a temple to people's food", supposedly one of the best carbonaras in Rome, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia, Gambero Rosso, Mangiarozzo
Lo'steria - Via Prati della Farnesina 61 (near Ponte Milvio, at end of #2 Tram), 06 33218749, closed Mon in winter / Sunday in summer, rec'd by Corriere della Serra, Osterie d'Italia, Roman specialties and fresh ingredients on short, reasonably-priced menu (YouTube video in Italian)
L'Ortica - Via Flaminia Vecchia 573, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin, TCI
Osteria Benaco - was in Osterie d'Italia but no longer in guidebook as of 2014, Roman classics
Osteria Chiana - in Municipio II neighborhood beyond the Villa Borghese, rec'd CN Traveler
Spazio Niko Romito Bar e Cucina Roma - Municipio II, rec'd CN Traveler
?Tonda - pizza, supplì, cacio e pepe, trapizzini, same owner as Sforno, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia (2014), they have carbonara pizza
Gelateria Bar Cile - Piazza Santiago del Cile 1 (N of Galeria Borghese, not far from Euclide train station), 068-070-917, rec'd TCI
Pico Gelato - near Bologna metro stop, Dissapore named the #44 gelateria in all Italy in 2017, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020 ...also a branch north in Flaminio
Gori Gelato - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
in Monterotondo, just N of the annulare:
***Cesare al Casaletto (aka Da Cesare) - Via del Casaletto 45, Portuense/Monteverde (take tram 8 from Largo Argentina), 065-360-15, closed Wed, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia, Katie Parla raves about the fried antipasti, primi, and secondi at what she dubs "the perfect Roman trattoria"; Elizabeth Minchilli agrees, more at Rome Digest [not to be confused with a different Da Cesare pizzeria on via Crescenzio 13]
***Also nearby: Otaleg! Gelateria, open every day noon-midnight - recommended by many (Puntarella Rossa thinks it's the best in Rome, Dissapore agrees [naming it the #9 gelateria in all Italy in 2017], Gambero Rosso's Gelaterie d'Italia 2018 (more in this 2017 article)), Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020 "3 coni", American in Rome has a nice blogpost
***Pinguino Gelateria Naturale - also nearby on Via Silvestri 224 (~13 min walk from Da Cesare), Dissapore named one of Italy's top 100 gelaterie in 2016, again in 2017, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020 "3 coni"
#Family Cremeria Artigianale - near Villa Pamphili rec'd Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
L’Osteria Palmira di Monteverde - rec'd by Puntarella Rossa
Il Focolare - popular fish place in Monteverde
Cremeria Aurelia - N of Villa Pamphilj, near Baldo degli Ubaldi metro, Dissapore named one of the top 100 gelaterie in Italy in 2017, Gambero Rosso in 2017, Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
[way out near the coast, ~40 min drive from central Rome, ~30 min N of Ostia Antica, ~15 min taxi from Torre In Pietra-Palidoro which is 30-45 min on the regional train from Termini (towards Civitavecchia):] Trattoria da Maurizio in Torrimpietra, Via di Torrimpietra, 06 6169 7262, closed Mon, see this review of it "like being in an olive oil commercial", near a 13th century castle that also has a winery
Golosi per Natura - gelateria in a shopping mall (Centro Commerciale Eschilo) that is very popular on TripAdvisor and Google
Civitavecchia: Gelato Ingredienti Nobili - rec'd Gambero Rosso Gelateria d'Italia 2020
Ladispoli is between Civitavecchia and Fiumicino: The Cesar - fairly expensive place with organic/local ingredients, rec'd Michelin
In Ostia/near Ostia Antica
--> Pack a picnic? (many websites say that if you're visiting Ostia Antica for the day, you might get the best food/deal by just bringing a picnic lunch...it's a great spot for a picnic!)
Very close to Ostia Antica
Sora Margherita da Arianna "al Borghetto" - right in town, rec'd Fodors, not as good on TripAdvisor
Ristorante Monumento - right in town, rec'd by NY Times in 2006, pretty popular on TripAdvisor
Il Frantoio - one of the better-reviewed on Google that's a short walk from Ostia Antica?
Il Gelataio Bar - well-reviewed on TripAdvisor
Ristorante Il Tino - across the Tiber in Fiumicino (~26 min walk from Ingresso Rimessaggio, the west gate of Ostia Antica), rec'd Gambero Rosso in 2017 (older 2016 article in English), one Michelin star (as of 2018)
Mammarò - in Fiumicino but ~23 min walk from ingresso Rimessaggio, rec'd Gambero Rosso in 2016 for inexpensive seafood
Oasi Naturista - beach/restaurant a bit south, rec'd Puntarella Rossa in 2014
Mediterranea - beach/restaurant a bit south, rec'd Puntarella Rossa in 2014
Dar Zagaja - beach/restaurant a bit south, rec'd Puntarella Rossa in 2014
Zenzero Biorestaurant - healthy/organic food
Oleonauta - olive oil shop rec'd Gambero Rosso in 2016
Le Golosità di Armando e Lucia - fancy deli rec'd Gambero Rosso in 2016
Michelino Fish Ristopescheria - fish shop that also sells cooked fish rec'd Gambero Rosso in 2016
Gelateria Carletto - rec'd Gambero Rosso in 2016
La Fraschetta (di Ponente) - Via della Corazzata 43, rec'd Roma Today
Ristorante The Legend - rec'd Roma Today
Bistro Toc Toque - rec'd Roma Today
L'Ostrica Pazza - a little ways south of main beach/town, rec'd Roma Today
?Da Zì Checco
?Pizzeria Il Campione
?Pesce Fritto e Baccalà
?Romolo dal 1976 - pizza
?La Casa del Tramezzino
?Bacchus Il Pesce E Il Vino
?Trattoria Le Romane
In Fiumicino near Airport
Il Tino - also fancy with a Michelin star
QuarantunoDodici - less fancy sister restaurant to Tino, rec'd Michelin
Pizzeria Sancho Dal 1969 - rec'd Gambero Rosso in 2017
Cielo FCO - rec'd Gambero Rosso in 2017
Pasticceria Patrizi - rec'd Gambero Rosso in 2017
Il Pinzimonio - rec'd Osterie d'Italia 2018
Bar della Darsena - rec'd Gambero Rosso Gelateria d'Italia 2020
Lanificio Cucina - rec'd CN Traveler
Pro Loco DOL - in Centocelle, rec'd by Katie Parla for having the best local products
180grammi Pizzeria Romana (aka 180g) - rec'd CN Traveler
daRe Gelato - rec'd Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Gelato d'essai da Geppy Sferra - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Gelato Giulivo - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Gelateria Cannolo Siciliano - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Food in Rome Resources
The following are great sources for information about restaurants and other food places in Rome:
Katie Parla - Katie Parla is an American expat who writes about food in Rome
her Eating & Drinking in Rome e-book is a great summary of her advice (most of which I agree with)
her Tasting Rome book is a nice introduction to Roman cuisine with recipes (she used to have a Rome for Foodies app but I can't find it anymore)
Katie also recommends other food tours here
Elizabeth Minchilli - similar to Katie's website, also an American expat.
Gillian's Lists - Gillian Longworth McGuire hash a nice list of places to eat/drink, date trips, etc. in Rome...not quite as up-to-date as the other blogs above, but still a good resource
...also check out other blogs on Katie Parla's list
Italian websites to learn what's trending/new:
Puntarella Rossa - Italian website (although they have a little English here and there) about food and wine in mostly Rome but also other cities in Italy
Scatti di Gusto - another Italian food website/blog
Dissapore - another Italian food website/blog
Not as tried-and-true but still helpful:
For exploring the city beyond the major sights (not necessarily food-related), Rome the Second Time (also see their blog)
Not quite as useful but worth checking out:
Chowhound Italy Board - they tend to bias towards fine dining places, and the Rome recommendations sometimes are skewed by some of the bloggers listed above, but it can be a good source for information (and you can ask questions)