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About Puglia
About Puglia
Also known in English as "Apulia," Puglia forms the "heel" of Italy's boot, and is known for its wild landscape, the Castel del Monte (a 13th Century octagonal fortress that appears on Italian 1-euro-cent coins), interesting trulli houses in Alberobello, and the town of Lecce (the "Florence of the South" due to its splendid Baroque architecture). Bari and Brindisi are also frequent departure points for Greece and other Eastern Mediterranean destinations.
Puglia features pristine beaches, including the most amazing at the "tip of the heel" in Santa Maria di Leuca. The region produces some of the best olive oil in Italy, and does excellent things with seafood. Consider staying at a masseria, a fortified country farmhouse (similar to an agriturismo; see this Frommer's article on masserie). Also try out the excellent wines such as Primitivo di Manduria, the region's flagship red wine, Nero di Troia, a rich red wine, and others such as Negroamaro, Salice Salentino, and Malvasia (check out Gambero Rosso's articles for tips on top wine & olive oil producers). Puglia is also home to rich cultural traditions like pizzica dance/music (which has some similarities to the Campanian tarantella).
Trulli Country
Trulli Country
The Valle d'Itria (Itria Valley) between Putignano and Martina Franca has a number of conical-shaped buildings known as trulli. You will see them throughout the valley, in particular along a scenic drive through the farmland (punctuated by various trulli along the way) recommended by Frommer's: Alberobello on Hwy 604 to Locorotondo, then Hwy 172 to Martina Franca, then Cisternino, then Ostuni. Also check out the Valle d'Itria Music Festival each summer.
Alberobello
Alberobello
This town has the most trulli, packed densely onto a hillside. The main trullo part of the town has become over-run with tourists, but some more residential areas are quieter and more characteristic: for example, Frommer's recommends crossing Largo Martellotta to check out the more residential area near Piazza M. Pagano...behind Piazza 27 Maggio through Piazza Plebiscito to the Aia Piccola district.
Where to Stay
www.trullidea.com 080-432-3860, 329-2661-1549, offers trulli apartments for rent also available on Venere.com.
Also can rent from Hotel dei Trulli (rec'd by Cadogan)
Relais Masseria Rosa, which is also on booking.com.
Fodor's rec's Albergo Sant'Antonio, via Isonzo 8, 080-432-2913.
Trulli e Puglia di Palmisano Mimmo Patrizio - via Monte San Michele 58, 080-432-4376, 347-553-85339, rent out 4 trulli by the night or for longer vacation stays. Mimmo and his brother speak very good English.
About.com's Trulli Page also has a list of trullo hotels and apartments.
Where to Eat
[I could be wrong, but given how touristy Alberobello is, the best eating is probably a bit further out in nearby towns like Noci, Martina Franca, Locorotondo...?]
? Trattoria "Terra Madre" - nice looking, locavore/farm-to-table, mostly (but not exclusively) vegetarian spot, good about allergies
Ristorante L'Aratro Di Laera Domenico - via Monte San Michele 25/29, 080-432-2789, restaurant in trulli (although outdoor seating also available), homemade pastas, relatively local/fresh ingredients, rec'd by Fodor's, Panorama, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (still in 2017), Espresso, Michelin (still in 2017 but not 2024), TCI, Katie Parla (who says it is a "welcome alternative" to the tourist traps in town)
Fancy/Haute Cuisine: Evo - rec'd Michelin in 2024, Gambero Rosso in 2023
Il Guercio di Puglia - Roman-style pizzas/pinsa and a few other dishes, good Google reviews in 2024
La Lira Focacceria - informal/inexpensive, great Google reviews in 2024
Principotto - snack spot for various fried goodies rec'd Fodors in 2024
Il Poeta Contadino - via Indipendenza 21, 080-432-1917, closed Mon, more expensive but good restaurant, was won Wine Spectator awards for their wine list, rec'd by Panorama, Gambero Rosso (in 2020), Espresso, Veronelli, Michelin (not anymore in 2024), TCI, Cadogan, Fodor's (still in 2024)...the more informal sister establishment Osteria del Poeta is a bit cheaper; apparently very gluten-free friendly
Olio Intini - olive oil producer outside town, rec'd Gambero Rosso
Arte Fredda - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020 but pretty bad recent (2024) Google reviews, might not be good anymore?
not sure if still good:
Ristorante La Cantina - vico Lippolis 9 (at Corso Vittorio Emmanuele) 080-432-3473, 347-740-1588, closed Tues, owner Francesco Lippolis welcomes you with seasonal meat dishes; good house wine, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (still in 2017), Mangiarozzo, and TCI.
Braceria La Fontana 1914 - Largo Martellotta 55, 380-369-6969, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017, who recommend the lamb, sausage, and sweetbreads...very rustic grilled meats
Ristorante Trullo d'Oro - via Felippe Cavallotti 27, 080-432-3909, closed Sun eve, Mon, in old trulli, local dishes with a creative flair, good desserts and wine list, rec'd by Michelin (still in 2017 but not in 2024), TCI, Cadogan, Fodor's (not anymore in 2017) and Frommer's
Ristorante Gli Ulivi - Contrada Popoleto 15 (exit town towards Putignano, make R after bridge), 080-432-3796, closed Wed except July/Aug, inexpensive local-only spot rec'd by Fodor's (not anymore in 2017), Mangiarozzo
Sciarabà at Hotel Colle del Sole - via Indipendenza 63, 080-432-1814, beautiful pergola and local specialities like orecchiette pasta with turnips and country-style cavatelli pasta with tomatoes and arugala, also rents rooms, was rec'd by Michelin but not anymore in 2017
Trattoria da Donato - Via Turi 98 in Coreggia (just NE of downtown Alborobello), 080-432-4539, a simple place with Bari specialities, especially meats such as beef steak on a hot plate
Cucina dei Trulli - Piazza Ferdinando IV 30, 080-432-1511, inexpensive family-run place rec'd by Cadogan, associated with hotel Lanzillotta
in Noci (~15 min W of Alberobello, cute/charming little town):
## L'Antica Locanda - via Spirito Santo 49, 080-497-2460, closed Sun eve, Tues, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (still in 2024), TCI, Mangiarozzo, Dissapore, Katie Parla rec's their antipasto spread including insalata di viticci (green vine shoot salad) in the spring...looks simple but fresh
Il Falco Pellegrino - rec'd Michelin 2017
Domenico Scarano - Via Vittorio Emanuele 15, 080-497-7315, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017...a butcher shop that also sells prepared food; only open Wednesday & Friday but also Tues/Thurs/Sat by appointment (?)
Agriturismo le Casedde - rec'd by Mangiarozzo
Fè - rec'd Michelin (still in 2024) and Gambero Rosso in 2023, somewhat fancy/haute cuisine place in Trulli
Cantine Barsento winery?
in Putignano (somewaht larger town outside Alberobello with a historic core):
??? Osteria Botteghe Antiche - rec'd Dissapore, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2024, and Gambero Rosso in 2023 (looks like artfully presented and somewhat re-imagined local favorites)
Angelo Sabatelli - 1 Michelin star, Gambero Rosso in 2023
Castellana Grotte
Castellana Grotte
A town just north of Alberobello, not far from Monopoli (see below under "Adriatic Coast"), which features a huge cave.
Fontanina - on the road towards Alberobello, 080-496-8010, closed Mon, generous portions of traditional food, ~€30, rec'd by Cadogan and Espresso.
Taverna degli Artisti - via Matarrese 23, 080-486-8234, Cadogan rec's the cannelloni, lamb, and torcini.
Maiakera - rec'd Gambero Rosso in 2023
Locorotondo
Locorotondo
Whitewashed city known for its wine (at the Cantina del Locorotondo, via Madonna della Catena 99, 080-431-1644, 080-431-1298, ask for Oronzo Mastro). This blogpost correctly says that it's a great place to wander around.
La Taverna del Duca - via Papatodero 3, 080-431-3007, closed Sun eve, everything is fresh and good in this former palace, homemade desserts, ~€20-22, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (still in 2024) and TCI (...but for some reason has lukewarm Google Maps reviews as of 2024??)
? Anima Ristorante - looks nice, rec'd Gambero Rosso in 2023
I Piaceri della Carne - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017, butcher shop that might also do some tavola calda stuff?
Macelleria e Salumeria di Olimpia di Nicola Semeraro - Contrada Lamie Olimpie 217, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017, another butcher shop just outside Locorotondo
Osteria Il Rosone - nice-looking spot in centro storico (others worth checking out: L'Arco Dei Tipici, Ai Tre Santi, Controra...)
Braceria Caramia - informal meat-centric place just outside of town
Goodo Ristorante - looks like updated classic dishes, with a special emphasis on grilled foods, this guy Vincenzo Rizzi who reviews local restaurants liked it in 2023
Martina Franca
Martina Franca
Medieval and baroque hilltown, rec'd by Fred Plotkin as the "classic town" for Puglia
Terra Terra (Questione di Radici) - rec'd Gambero Rosso in 2023 and TCI, various traditional dishes
Ristorante ai Portici - rec'd Frommer's
son of owner runs Ristorante Odegitria on the same piazza
Ristorante Sagittario - rec'd by Fodor's
Nausikaa - rec'd Lonely Planet
Osteria Garibaldi - rec'd Lonely Planet
Ristorante Gaonas - looks nice, rec'd Corriere della Serra in 2018
not rec'd anymore?
Cisternino
Cisternino
Between Locorotondo and Ostuni, less touristy than the other trullo towns, but which was selected as one of the "most beautiful small towns in Italy has a beautiful centro storico (historic center) which is fun to walk around.
Where to Stay
Recommended B&B: Trullo Sovrano Exclusive B&B, Via Giaconecchia 14, 080-204-8783, 348-405-8508, which has some trulli, as well as other spacious rooms in a beautiful oasis a few minutes from Cisternino, nice outdoor pool, Michele cooks up a wonderful breakfast
Another trullo B&B is Antica Aia
Where to Eat
Cisternino is known for its "fornelli pronti" (butcher's shops connected to grills) serving up such dishes as "bombette" (roasted pork meatballs), including:
Al Vecchio Fornello - via Basilioni 18, 080-444-6431, rec'd Lonely Planet, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017, just outside one of the entrances to the centro storico
Rosticceria da Zio Pietro (di Mola) - via Duca d'Aosta 3, 080-444-8300, rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017 and Identità Golose in 2021
Rosticceria L'Antico Borgo - via Tarantini 9, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017
Macelleria de Mola Vincenzo/Arrosteria del Vicoletto - 2 Via Giulio II, in the centro storico, 080-444-8063, rec'd Lonely Planet and others
Taverana della Torre - via S. Quirico 3, 080-444-9264, closed Tues, next to a medieval tower, serves up traditional recipes made with fresh ingredients, homemade pasta, don't miss the outstanding appetizers, ~€25-30, ~€22-28 fixed price, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (still in 2017), Gambero Rosso, etc.
Chirico Bistrot - rec'd Gambero Rosso in 2023, relatively informal, can do tapas/sandwiches or larger dishes
? Il Cucco - enoteca/wine shop and restaurant with garden, looks nice!
outside town in Marinelli: Salumificio Santoro - rec'd Identità Golose in 2021, makes cured meats
not sure about these:
Il Capriccio - via Monte Cutetto 25, in Caranna, north of downtown Cisternino, 080-444-2553, closed Mon lunch, Wed simple trattoria with ample portions of sea and land food, ~€20-25, rec'd by TCI.
La Botte - via Santa Lucia 47, tucked into the corner at one of the entrances to the centro storico, 080-444-7850, 347-854-7227, closed Thurs, Puglia specialties, homemade pasta, ~€20-30, €15 fixed price menu
Osteria Sant'Anna - viale Stazione 12, 080-444-7036, closed Mon, 4 generations have cooked in this restaurant; the current chef (Peppino) makes various local specialties, ~€35, rec'd by Espresso and Veronelli.
Hosteria Bella Italia - via Duca d'Aosta 29, 080-444-9036, closed Wed, rec'd by Lonely Planet
Il Cucco - Corso Umberto I 137, 080-444-9064, closed Tues, rec'd by Lonely Planet...also a good place to taste wine
Ostuni
Ostuni
"The white city" just east of Alberobello (Gondor was mostly based on Mont Saint Michel but it does remind me of that city in the Lord of the Rings!)...ancient olive trees are in Torre Guaceto, a little ways east.
Where to Stay
Frommer's rec's staying in the Trulli of Masseria Cappuccini, Corsa da Cappuccini, 333-412-0241, includes a pool, cheap
Tre Torri, Corso Emmanuele 298, 083-133-1114, Cadogan and Fodor's rec'd this inexpensive hotel.
Borgo San Marco - masseria (fortified farmhouse, basically Puglia's equivalent of an agriturismo) rec'd An American in Rome, a ways NW of Ostuni in Fasano
Masseria Il Frantoio - see below
Where to Eat
## Osteria del Tempo Perso via Gaetano Tanzarella Vitale 47, 083-130-4819/3320, 339-185-1652, 393-934-0556, closed Mon (except August), June-Sept dinner only except Sundays, in the centro storico, Teo Carlucci cooks up delicious suprises, ~€40, is highly rec'd, including this blog post, Gambero Rosso, Veronelli, Michelin (still in 2017), TCI, Frommer's, Mangiarozzo, Fodor's, and Sophie Minchilli ("If you only have one meal in Ostuni, it should be here")
Osteria Piazzetta Cattedrale - Via Arcidiacono Trinchera 7, 083-133-5026, re'cd by Espresso, Michelin (Bib Gourmand 2017), Mangiarozzo, TCI, Gambero Rosso in 2023 ...seems a touch formal but nice
Acquasanta Dispensa e Vino - enoteca with small plates, looks nice!
Ciccio in Piazza - gelato rec'd Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Haute cuisine/fancy:
Cielo - 1 Michelin star
not sure if still good:
Al Solito Posto - via Braico 37, 083-130-5850, closed Tues, nice restaurant/pizzeria with ample portions, rec'd by Alice.
Spessite - via Brancasi 43, 083-130-2866, 338-975-8612, rec'd by Alice, Mangiarozzo
Outside town:
*** Masseria Il Frantoio, via Bixio Continelli 54/64 (SS16 Km 874), 083-130-1402, closed Mon, agriturismo/masseria with great reviews and cool underground excavations; 5 types of homemade olive oil, food made from organic products of the agriturismo, €53 fixed price menu, must reserve ahead. rec'd by Slow Travel readers, also see this blog entry. We stayed here in 2012 and really enjoyed it. The owner is a hilarious free spirit, and the food is outstanding.
just down the street is Maserie Le Carrube which also is a converted olive oil mill and looks fantastic, including their vegetarian restaurant
Masseria Cantone - Contrada Fantese, on the road between Ostuni and Cisternino, 080-444-6902, everything is made on the property, open only for dinner, sunday lunch, or for groups of 15 or more, ~€30-45, rec'd by Panorama and TCI.
Masseria Lamiola Piccola - Contrada Lamiola Piccola, 083-135-9972, closed Mon, agriturismo/masseria run by the Petrella family, fresh seasonal food from the property, they have a hot tub!, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (not anymore in 2017), Veronelli.
Masserie Rienzo - Contrada Rienzo 8, 083-130-4548, only dinner, must reserve ahead, relaxing locale for local Pugliese food, rec'd by Alice.
? Casale Ferrovia - in Carovigno, SE of Ostuni (although the restaurant is halfway between the center of Carovigno and the beach), rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017, Gambero Rosso in 2023, bright space, looks like fun?
also in Carovigno: Già Sotto l'Arco - rec'd Gambero Rosso in 2023 (a "gels and foams" haute cuisine place)
??? La Locanda di Nonna Mena - in San Vito dei Normanni (on road between Ostuni and Brindisi), rec'd Gambero Rosso in 2023, local traditions the way grandma would make it, but with high-quality Slow Food ingredients...on some nights there are "Note e Sapori" outdoor concerts like pizzica music
also nearby: Caseificio Lanzillotti, cheese maker rec'd Identità Golose in 2021
Ceglie Messapica
Ceglie Messapica
Cute town 7 miles south of Ostuni
## Cibus - via Chianche di Scaranno 7, 083-138-8980, closed Tues, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, (still in 2024) Espresso, TCI, Mangiarozzo, Gambero Rosso in 2023
## Trullo Santangelo - hotel/agriturismo in Ceglie Messapica, rec'd Scatti di Gusto in 2021, you can contact them ahead of time to eat if you're not a hotel guest
Enococus - Acini & Carbone - interesting spot, relatively meat-centric, Gambero Rosso in 2023
Osteria da Giuseppe - also in Ceglie Messapica, rec'd Sophie Minchilli, looks like simple but fresh dishes
[not sure, old version of restaurant was recommended: Antonella Ricci & VInod Sookar - haute cuisine place]
outside town to the south in Villa Castelli: Enoteca Uva Viva - rec'd Gambero Rosso in 2023, nice wine bar with lots of small plates
in between Ceglie Messapica and Ostuni: Masseria San Paolo Grande - looks gorgeous, they make food from their property, not clear if you can eat there if you're not staying there?
Adriatic Coast
Adriatic Coast
Trani
Trani
Nice town on the coast near Andria (NW of Bari). Let's Go rec's Tre Re, via Casale 58, 088-340-3328, good location, clean rooms as cheap as 16 euro and Centro Storico, via Leopardi 29, 088-350-6176, an inexpensive B&B with nice garden, which has been used in films. Barletta, a little ways north, offers up Ristorante Antica Cucina 1983, via Milano 73, 088-352-1718, closed Mon/Tues, a highly recommended spot (rec'd by Mangiarozzo).
Where to Eat
Corteinfiore - closed Sun eve, Mon, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Mangiarozzo
Il Melograno - via Bovia 189, 088-348-6966, closed Wed, rec'd by Espresso, Michelin
Trattoria da Miana - via Sinagoga 54, 088-358-9794, closed Sun eve, Wed, Slow Travel reviewer said it was "[t]he most memorable meal of the whole holiday and probably of the whole year", rec'd by Alice
Taverna Portanova - Piazza Lambert 7, 088-350-8386, closed Tues, rec'd by Alice
Locanda Pesevenghi - rec'd by Mangiarozzo
Things to See
Cannae - near Trani, the site where Hannibal routed the Roman army.
Castel del Monte is not far inland near the town of Andria on SS.170 bis; open 10-1:30, 2:30-7, a puzzling 13th Century octogonal castle built for reasons that are not entirely clear. Bring a picnic lunch or stop off before/after, as the available food options are not good.
Nearby places to eat
?? Trattoria Antichi Sapori Montegrosso - piazza Sant'Isidoro 7/12, in Montegrosso, near Andria, 088-346-9529, closed Mon, one of Mangiarozzo's "10 restaurants not to miss" in Italy, Dissapore in 2016, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2024
De la Poste Locanda - in Andria, via Bovio 49, 088-355-8655, closed Sun eve, Wed rec'd Gambero Rosso, Espresso, TCI
La Brace in Fravina - in Andria, Piazza Toniolo 3, 088-395-3231, closed Tues, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia
Il Turacciolo - in Andria, rec'd Dissapore
L'Osteria del Seminario - in Bisceglie, just S of Trani, rec'd by Mangiarozzo, corso umbero I 165, 080-399-1519, 320-701-3327, closed Sun eve, Tues
La Bottega dell'Allegria - in Corato, S of Trani, rec'd Dissapore
Monopoli
Monopoli
Don't pass Go; instead stop off in this seaport east of Alberobello with a nice historic district, between Bari and Brindisi.
La Mia Terra, Contrada Impalata 309, 080-690-0969, closed Mon, rec'd by Frommer's and Michelin.
Lido Bianco - via Procaccia 3, 080-887-6737, rec'd by Alice
Osteria Perricci - via Comes 1/3, 080-937-2208, rec'd by TCI, Mangiarozzo
Vigna del Mar - via Mazzini 25, 080-808-571, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, and Veronelli.
C'era una volta...la Vecchia Taverna - rec'd by Mangiarozzo
Radimare Ristorante - rec'd Michelin in 2024 for its innovative dishes
?? Orto Ristorante Naturale (in Contrada Tortorella, abotu halfway between Monopoli and Locorotondo) - rec'd Michelin in 2024, Identità Golose (also blogpost from 2023), in the Nina Trulli resort, absolutely beautiful plates, looks a bit fancy but also a bit informal (and not rediculously expensive)??
Polignano a Mare
Polignano a Mare
Just north of Monopoli, is a beautiful seaside town perched on cliffs that has good gelato such as Il Super Mago del Gelo. At peak times, it has apparently gotten a bit over-run with folks thirsty for Instagram snaps though...
?? Grotta Palazzese - via Narciso 49, 080-424-0677, closed Mon lunch, perhaps one of the most amazing (and expensive) hotel/restaurant locations in the world, as it is in a limestone cavern on the sea; rec'd by Gambero Rosso
Da Tuccino - Katie Parla rec's for seafood
Super Mago del Gelo - gelateria/granita rec'd Katie Parla
Infermento - via Penna della galera 20, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, ~€35.
Bari
Bari
Major town, embarkation point for many cruises. A basilica in town contains the remains of San Nicola (Saint Nicholas, aka Santa Claus). Elizabeth Minchilli lives here part time (her husband's family is from there) and has a lot of great notes.
Perbacco - rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Osterie d'Italia (still in 2024), Espresso, Dissapore
Ristorante al Pescatore - Piazza Federico II di Svevia 6, 080-523-7039, rec'd by Fodor's and Elizabeth Minchili for seafood.
Terranima - rec'd by Gambero Rosso, TCI, Elizabeth Minchili says "very traditional local recipes"
were rec'd before, not sure anymore:
La Locanda di Federico - rec'd by Osterie d'Italia (not anymore in 2024?), Espresso, TCI
Osteria Le Arpie - rec'd by Mangiarozzo
Trattoria Giulio Cesare - rec'd by Mangiarozzo
in Ruvo di Puglia (~45 min W of Bari):
?? U.P.E.P.I.D.D.E. (stands for "Unico Posto Esclusivo Per Individui Di Doppia Esigenza", or "Only Exclusive Place for Individuals with Big Requirements" but actually "u pepidde" means a cute baby in the local dialect), vico Sant'Agnese 2, 080-361-3879, closed Mon, great food from the local area, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Michelin, Mangiarozzo, and TCI; ~€35.
L'Angolo Divino - Corso Jatta 11, 080-362-8544, closed Mon, wine bar only dinner, rec'd Gambero Rosso, Espresso
in Cassano delle Murge: Arte Gelata - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Fasano
Fasano
S of Monopoli, famous for the ZooSafari e Fasanolandia, which Americans call the "Bari Safari"
Masseria Parco di Castro, in Speziale (SE of Fasano on the way to Ostuni on SS16), 080-481-0944, closed Mon and Tues, open only for dinner, this agriturismo is rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia for excellent local food, ~€30.
?? also in Speziale, rec'd several places: Trattoria Il Cortiletto - looks like a beautiful place for updated classics, rec'd Identità Golose in 2021, BariToday, La Repubblica in 2017 (they also talk about other things to do in Speziale)
Due Camini a Borgo Egnazia - rec'd Gambero Rosso in 2023 and Identità Golose in 2021, pretty expensive tasting menu place but looks nice
Brindisi
Brindisi
The next major town south of Bari, see Jeff in Puglia's guide to gelato in Brindisi.
Pantagruelle - Salita di Ripalta 1/5, 083-156-0605, closed Sat morning, Sun, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'italia, Espresso, Michelin, TCI, Mangiarozzo.
Canosa di Puglia - town on road between Bari and Naples
Locanda di Nunno - via Balilla 2, 088-361-5096, closed Sun eve, Mon, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'italia, Espresso, TCI, Mangiarozzo.
Minvervino Murge is ~30 min south:
Casa Scesciola - closed Sun eve, Mon, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, TCI
?? Masseria Barbera - closed Sun eve, Mon, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Dissapore; Chowhound raves about Masseria Barbera in Minervino Murge and some other places near Trani/Andria
La Tradizione Cucina Casalinga - via Imbriani 11/13, 088-369-1690, closed Thurs, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Michelin, Mangiarozzo, ~€25-30
Orsara di Puglia and Panni are also on road between Bari and Naples, ~45 min N of Candela
Peppe Zullo - via Piano Paradiso, Orsara di Puglia, 088-196-4763, closed Tues, lunch only, also rents 5 rooms, €35 fixed price menu, reserve ahead, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso
La Locanda di Pan alle Murge - via Castella a Levante, Panni, 088-196-5523, closed Tues, check out the view from their "castle" tower, €23-25 for everything (also €18 fixed price menu)
Gargano Peninsula
Gargano Peninsula
This "spur" to Italy's boot once was part of Croatia, which split off due to seismic shifts; it thus features a different look from the rest of Puglia (including lush forests). Among its riches are San Giovanni Rotondo, a pilgrimage site for followers of Padre Pio, a relatively modern saint famous for having the stigmata.
Foggia - main town/provincial capital
Giordano da Pompeo - rec'd by Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Michelin, TCI, Mangiarozzo
Zia Marinella - rec'd by Osterie d'Italia and Espresso
Lesina - N of Foggia and San Severo
Le Antiche Sere - rec'd Dissapore
Cerignola - 'U Vulesce - rec'd by Mangiarozzo
Lucera - Il Cortiletto - rec'd by Mangiarozzo
Monte Sant'Angelo
Medioevo - rec'd by Osterie d'Italia and Michelin
Taverna Li Jalantuùmene - rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin, TCI, Mangiarozzo
Manfredonia - Il Baracchio - rec'd by Osterie d'Italia, Mangiarozzo and TCI
Mattinata - seaside town in Foggia province (Gargano peninsula)
Masseria Liberatore rec'd by Osterie d'Italia
Trattoria dalla Nonna - rec'd by Fodor's, Mangiarozzo
Peschici - Porta di Basso, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin, TCI
?? Al Trabucco da Mimì - old trabucco pier, rec'd Lonely Planet, Golosario, Dissapore; these two blogs give a sense of the place ...also rents rooms
Trabucco di Monte Pucci Ristorante di Pesce - rec'd Golosario
San Severo - La Fossa del Grano, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'italia, Espresso, Michelin, TCI
San Giovanni Rotondo - place famous for being the working and resting place of Padre Pio, a Capuchin priest who was marked by "stigmata" (there's a giant pilgrimage church in town honoring him), although he was born in Pietrelcina in Benevento
Opus Wine, rec'd by Osterie d'Italia and Espresso
Fil & Max Taverna dei Pirgiani - rec'd by Mangiarozzo
Osteria Antica Piazzetta - rec'd by Mangiarozzo
Isola Tremiti - Isola San Nicola: Ristonrate Bar Architiello, Da Carolina - rec'd by Mangiarozzo
Vieste
Al Dragone - highly rec'd by Fodor's, Michelin, TCI
Capriccio - rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, TCI
Taverna Al Cantinone - rec'd by Mangiarozzo
Southern Puglia/Salento
Southern Puglia/Salento
The "Salento" region encompasses the very southern tip of the "heel", and includes some of the region's best beaches and serves up some of the best seafood. While northern Puglia speaks a dialect similar to Neapolitan, in Salento the local dialect is "Salentino", more closely related to Sicilian (see this Salentino-Italian dictionary for a flavor). The Greek influence in this region is also strong; there's even still a small community who speak a Greek dialect called Griko.
Lecce
Lecce
Provincial capital, famous for its extravagant baroque sandstone architecture.
Where to Eat
***Trattoria Cucina Casareccia ("Le Zie") - via Colonnello Costadura 19, 083-224-5178, 12:30-2, 8-11, closed Sun eve and Mon, cheap food made by grandma—book early because it's popular, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Michelin, TCI, Mangiarozzo, Fred Plotkin, Frommer's and Fodor's...Luke loved the surprisingly tender horsemeat, Liz liked the fava beans and chicory
Le Macàre - rec'd Katie Parla
?Alle due Corti - Corte dei Giugni 1, at via Leonardo Prato 42, 083-224-2223, 083-239-7865, closed Sun, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Slow Travel, Mangiarozzo, Travel and Leisure and Fodor's, ~€25.
?Osteria degli Spiriti - Via Cesare Battisti 4, 083-224-6274, closed Sun, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Michelin, TCI, Fred Plotkin, Mangiarozzo, and Frommer's
400 Gradi - rec'd Sophie Minchilli for Neapolitan-style pizza
Caffe Lavino - rec'd Sophie Minchilli for coffee and pastries
Boccon Divino - Via Libertini 17, 083-230-9583, 10:30-2, 6-1, good Salento specialties, rec'd by Frommer's
Ristorante Villa Giovanni Camillo della Monica - rec'd by Frommer's
Corte dei Pandolfi - www.cortedeipandolfi.com, rec'd by Fodor's
Osteria della Divina Provvidenza - via Rubichi 4, 083-217-92078, 345-913-9431, rec'd by Mangiarozzo
Osteria del Pozzo Vecchio - in Cavallino, just S of Lecce, rec'd by Mangiarozzo
La Lanterna - in Martano, ~30 min S of Lecce, rec'd by Mangiarozzo
***Gelato: Crem - viale Marconi at the corner of viale Lo Re (near eastern edge of centro storico), the best gelato in town...and the absolute best chocolate sorbetto we've ever had!
Where to Stay
www.salentoincasa.it books B&Bs around town
***L'Orangerie d'Epoque - don't let the French name fool you; this is a ridiculously cute Italian B&B, where you stay in their beautiful mansion with a courtyard, just a block from the centro storico
Chiesa Greca B&B Suites, piazzette Chiesa Greca 11, 083-230-2330, 335-534-46454, in a historic but air-conditioned building, re'cd by Frommer's
Centro Storico B&B - rec'd by Slow Travel
Otranto
Otranto
Somewhat touristy seaside town; cool cathedral and so close to Albania you can see it on a clear day. Beautiful, shallow beach.
Masseria Montelauro - 083-680-6203, 083-680-4905, www.masseriamontelauro.it, info@masseriamontelauro.it, rec'd by Frommer's
Gallipoli
Gallipoli
On the western coast, site of a famous WWI battle
?Trattoria la Puritate - via Sant'Elia 18, 083-326-4205, closed Wed, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Michelin, and TCI...also see blog by Luciano Pignataro (in Italian)
Le Macare Ristorante - just inland from Gallipoli, looks nice, rec'd Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2024
Other Salento Towns
Other Salento Towns
Taviano - town just SE of Gallipoli
?A Casa Tu Martinu - Via Corsica 95, 083-391-3652, closed Sun eve, Mon, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Michelin, Mangiarozzo, and TCI. Also rents rooms.
Nardò - N/inland from Gallipoli; Mangiarozzo rec's Bar ristorante Blu Mare
Alliste - SE/inland from Gallipoli; one reader recommends Hotel Jonico
Porto Cesareo - coastal town N of Gallipoli, Mangiarozzo rec's Cosimino and L'Aragosta da Co'
Uggiano la Chiesa - just down the coast and inland from Otranto
Gattamora - agriturismo/masseria, www.gattamora.it, pool, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Michelin, and TCI
Muro Leccese - just inland from Otranto, near Maglie
Agriturismo dei Pan Zanan
Tenuta Sant'Andrea - www.tenutasantandrea.com
Patù - town just N of Santa Maria di Leuca
##Rua de Li Travaj - Piazza Indipendenza 44, 349-058-4531, closed Wed, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, TCI, Mangiarozzo, and Fred Plotkin...blog post by Luciano Pignataro (in Italian)
Alessano - just N of Santa Maria di Leuca, near Patù
Bio Masseria Santa Lucia
...also nearby is Passeggiata in Galiano del Gapo (rec'd by Gambero Rosso)
Ugento - on the road between Gallipoli and Santa Maria di Leuca
Masseria Gianferrante - a Slow Food agriturismo
Monacizzo / Avetrana - ~1 hour W of Lecce
Masseria Bosco - site of Francesco de Padova olive oil producer; part of the Casa de Case "Giro in Italia" tour
Galatina - inland between Gallipoli, Lecce, and Otranto
Pasticceria Andrea Ascalone - supposedly where pasticcioto (a cream-filled pastry) was invented, rec'd Sophie Minchilli and Katie Parla
In Ruffano: Farmacia dei Sani - rec'd Katie Parla
Tricase (near tip of Puglia): Gelateria G& Co - one of the top gelaterie in the country in Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Beaches
Beaches
Torre Sant'Andrea - beautiful cove with natural stone arches, near town of Melendugno, N of Otranto at 40°15.3′N 18°26.7′E
Torre dell'Orso - N of Otranto, ~40 min E of Lecce, nice warm water and beach, with the "tower" (a rock formation which supposedly looks like a bear) near the shore. Be careful where you park your car (thieves are not uncommon)! 40°16′50″N 18°20′38.32″E
Santa Cesarea Terme - S of Otranto, ~1 hour SE of Lecce, rocky coastline with clear water; also known for spas. Also known for the Grotta Zinzulusa (40°00′43″N 18°25′50″E)
Santa Maria di Leuca - has Punta Meliso, beautiful spot where Adriatic and Ionian seas meet
Baia Verde - south of Gallipoli, one reader recommends family-friendly Lido Punta Della Suina, 348-742-7000, 40°0.15'N 18°1.05'E ("a giant sandbar bay & the water is clean, no muck & seaweed")
Porto Selvaggio - N of Gallipoli, ~45 min W of Lecce, a beautiful cove in a Natural Park hidden behind a pine forest, parking lot at 40°9'40"N 17°58'9"E, main bay/beach at 40°8'54"N 17°58'20"E (Main park office is at Masseria di Torre Nova at 40°10'13.54"N 17°57'27.83"E)
Marina di Mancaversa - area S of Gallipoli/Baia Verde, beautiful sandy beaches between Punto Pizzo (with its small white Torre del Pizzo from the 16th Century) and Torre Suda
Taranto
Taranto
Taranto once was an important Greek colony, forming part of Magna Grecia (Greater Greece) along with towns such as Naples and Paestum. It later waxed and waned in importance, and gave the "tarantula" its name (luckily, local spiders are not as big!). Now Taranto is home to Italy's submarine fleet and various other parts of the marina militare (Navy). The town is divided into the Città Vecchia (Old City) on an island, connected to the Città Moderna (New City) via a bridge that opens to let the Navy ships out.
Where to Eat
Al Gatto Rosso - via Cavour 2, 099-452-9875, closed Mon, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (still in 2017), Michelin, Mangiarozzo, and Espresso, €35 tasting menu
Al Canale - rec'd Golosario
Trattoria Gesù Cristo - Via Battisti 10, 099-477-7253, closed Sun eve, Mon, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (not anymore in 2017) and TCI
Il Caffè - Puglian/Seafood, reasonable prices, Frommer's calls it "the best restaurant in town," great mussels, 099-452-5097, Via d'Aquino 8, one block west of the SW corner of main piazza in Città Moderna
Le Vecchie Cantine - via Girasoli 23, Lama, 099-777-2589, Frommer's raves about this restaurant 5 miles south of the city; also rec'd by Cadogan, Gambero Rosso, and Espresso.
Da Mimmo - via Giovinazzi 18, 099-459-3733, inexpensive seafood restaurant rec'd by Cadogan.
Ristorante Basile - via Pitagora 76, 099-452-6240, inexpensive restaurant across from the park, rec'd by Cadogan.
Things to do/see/eat near Taranto
In Massafra, a town ~30 min N of Taranto (on road to Matera):
Falsopepe - via SS Medici 45, 099-880-4687, closed Wed, dinner only except weekends, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, TCI, Golosario
...in the next town to the west (Palagiano): Bar Mincuccio, dissapore named as one of the top 100 gelaterie in Italy in 2017, also in Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
In Crispiano, a town ~30 min N of Taranto (just E of Massafra, a bit further off highway):
? La Cuccagna - Giro di Vite - Corso Umberto 168, 099-616-087, 349-873-3138, closed Tues, dinner only except weekends, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Michelin Bib Gourmand (in 2024), Slow Food Osterie d'Italia (still in 2024), Espresso, TCI, Mangiarozzo, Dissapore, ~€35
Masseria La Pizzìca - Contrada Pizzìca 38, 340-366-6203, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, ~€25-30
in Grottaglie, ~30 min E of Taranto (on road to Brindisi):
Il Piatto Reale - via Cavour 13, 099-566-7027, closed Sun eve, Mon, rec'd by Alice, ~€30-35
in Palagianello, ~40 min N of Taranto (on road to Matera)
La Strega - via Fratelli Bandiera 61, 40.609 N 16.9759 E, 099-844-4678, closed Tues lunch and Mon, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Espresso, Michelin
Masseria Petrino - Località Petrino, 099-843-4065, closed much of Jan, Tues lunch, Sun eve, Mon, rec'd by Gambero Rosso, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia, Espresso, Michelin, TCI, ~€35-45
in Ginosa, a town ~1 hour W/NW of Taranto
Agriturismo San Pio - rec'd by Mangiarozzo
Marina di Pulsano
La Barca - rec'd Golosario, Michelin in 2017
Il Grillo - rec'd Michelin in 2017
Leporano Marina
Oblò - rec'd Michelin in 2017
Resources
Resources
Reid's Italy guides has a nice page on Puglia including a section on Alberobello
Official Puglia Tourism Page
Chowhound readers on Puglia
Frommer's guide to Puglia, Fodor's guide to Puglia/Basilicata/Calabria
Travel and Leisure has an article called Puglia Rustica.
Food and Wine article on Puglia: Italy's Next Great Escape
Apuliabella.com's list of recommended restaurants
Slow Travel's detailed Puglia guide and shorter restaurant list
Wineries
Antica Enotria - viale di Levante 19, northeast of Cerignola (northwest of Bari), 088-541-8462
Torre Quarto - contrada Quarto 5, Cerignola, 088-541-8453/8456, 346-628-3113, 333-196-3398
Villa Schinosa - Trani (on coast between Bari and Cerignola), 088-358-0612
Tenuta Cocevola - Contrada Cocevola SS 170, Andria (near Trani and Castel del Monte), 088-326-2489, 088-356-9511, also rents rooms
Conte Onofrio Spagnoletti Zeuli - Contrada San Domenico 231, Andria, 088-356-9511
Rivera (Puer Apuliae, etc.) - SP 231, Andria, 41.19748N 16.12141E, 088-346-9510/9501.
Wine Road of Castel del Monte - a bunch of wineries near Trani and Castel del Monte
List of Puglia Wineries - from the MovimentoTurismoVino website
Google Sites
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