Paris Food

*** = especially recommended

Markets and Food Streets

Paris has some wonderful food markets, as well as streets for good food shopping

    • Raspail - 6e (between Cherche-Midi and de Rennes), conventional market on Tu/F (~8 to 1:30)...but most famous for "Le Marché Bio", an organic market on Sun (9-3)

      • Batignolles, 8e/17e (Boulevard de Batignolles), has a similar organice market on Sat 8-2

    • Place Monge - 5e, W/F 8-1:30, Sun 8-2 (MoP rec's cheese at La Petite Fermière Leito, potatoes/carrots at Monsieur Léo Zamba, Labanese pitas with yogurt, financiers with ginger/orchid/pistachio)

    • Président Wilson - 16e, W 8-1:30, Sat 8-2, MoP rec's Joël Thiébault's stand

    • close but smaller:

      • Maubert-Mutualité - 5e (Place Maubert), Tu/Th/Sat 8-1:30

      • Saint-Germain-des-Prés - 6e (4 rue Lobineau), T-Sat 8:30-1, 4-7:30, Sun 8-1

      • Saxe-Breteuil (7e, in shadow of Eiffel tower), Thu 8-1:30, Sat 8-2

    • Rue Montorgueil - closed Mon, Sun afternoon, 10-6 most shops are open, David Lebovitz has great photos and recommendations here

      • G. Detou is nearby on 58 rue Tiquetonne - see Lebovitz's post (he rec's bringing back Valrhona Cocoa Powder)

    • Rue Mouffetard - closed Mon, Sun afternoon, 10-6 most shops are open

    • Rue Cler - closed Mon, Sun afternoon, 10-6 most shops are open (head down Champ de Mars to visit L'Épicerie Fine, don't miss Martine Lambert's ice cream)

    • Bon Marchée "La Grande Épicerie" - M-Sat 8:30-9, closed Sun (e.g. get Jean-Yves Bordier butter?)

    • [Flower market on Île de la Cité M-Sat 9-6, Bird market 8-1 Sun]

    • Full list is on the Paris Mayor's website (in French, but easy to follow)

Boulangeries (Bakeries)

Paris has some outstanding bakeries, where you can get a perfect baguette, as well as other savory items.

    • Du Pain et Des Idées - 34 rue Yves Toudic (10e), near Canal St. Martin, 6:45-8 M-F, closed Sat/Sun, www.dupainetdesidees.com) - won Gault-Milleau bakery prize, highly rec'd by Time Out for interesting bread (e.g. Le Pagnol aux Pommes with apples, raisins, and orange flower water), rec'd by Clotilde, Wells (who calls the pain des amis "pure perfection — moist, gigantic, crusty, golden, delicious" although she says the pastries are "mundane and without a lot of charm"), crusty; also rec'd for croissants (2nd best in Paris says this blog), see Lebovitz post

    • Poilâne Bakery - 8 rue du Cherche-Midi (6e) [near Bon Marché, go to basement to see it being made], M-Sat 7:15-8:15, closed Sun, www.poilane.com, old bakery with ancient oven (also branch in 3e at 38 rue Debelleynme, closed Mon and 15e at 49 bld de Grenelle), rec'd by MoP, highly rec'd by Time Out, Clotilde, Wells also rec's the caramelized apple tartelettes and shortbread sablé, beautiful photos on Lebovitz's blog, also two bakeries in London --> pain Poliâne and punitions

    • Eric Kayser - 10 Rue de l'Ancienne Comédie (6e, near Odéon), 7-8:30 M-Sat, closed Sun, several other locations (e.g. 1er at 4 Rue de l'Échelle [open every day], 4e at 18 Rue du Bac, 5e at 14 rue Monge [closed Mon], 2e at 16 Rue des Petits Carreaux after Montorgeuil, Orly airport...most open 7 to 8 or 8:30), www.maison-kayser.com "airy, light baguettes" are praised, rec'd by Clotilde

    • Boulangerie/Patisserie Jean-Noël Julien - 75 Rue Saint-Honoré (1er, original shop, N of Tuileries, M-Sat 6:30-8), 24 Rue Saint-Martin (4e, near Hôtel de Ville, M-Sat 7:30-8:30), 54 Rue Notre Dame des Champs (6e, M-Sat 7:30-8), www.boulangerie-patisserie-artisanale-paris.com, good bread and croissants (Wells rec's the pain au chocolat and baguette au céréales), supposedly good kouign amann as well, more at Paris by Mouth

    • #Boulangerie Utopie - 11e bakery also known for its innovative croissants, see Eater article for more information, won "La meilleure boulangerie de France" on M6 TV show; special flavor escargot on the weekend??

    • ?28 Beaumarchais - rec'd everydayparisian

    • Véronique Mauclerc - (83 Rue de Crimée (19e), closed Tues/Wed, at N corner of Parc des Buttes Chaumont...17e one is closed), uses natural sourdough, see this blogpost for tantalizing photos, Paris by Mouth has more reviews, Clotilde rec's for wood-burning oven and great bread (along with kouign amann, etc.), Wells rec's as well, this post explains how to arrange for a tour but as of 2013 it looks like the new Meet the Parisians at Work site didn't have her listed, also rec'd by Fodor's

    • ?Arnaud Delmontel - 39 rue des Martyrs (9e), 7-8:30 M/W-Sun, closed Tues, www.arnaud-delmontel.com - won best baguette in Paris in 2007, highly rec'd by Time Out, Clotilde (who also rec's pastries such as croissant aux amandes, viennoiseries, feuilleté de seigle au miel), Wells rec's the baguette à la fleur du sel

    • ?Gosselin - 125 rue Saint-Honoré (1er, 7-8 Sun-Fri, closed Sat, www.boulangerie-patisserie-artisanale-paris1.com) and 258 boulevard Saint-Germain (7e, closed Sat/Sun, M-F 7-8), www.boulangeriegosselin.com, rec'd by Wells for good baguettes, also Paris by Mouth

    • L'Autre Boulange (11e) - rec'd by Time Out for 23 types of loafs, Clotilde

    • Le Boulanger de Monge (5e) - rec'd by Time Out for spicy "boules" and baguettes (also on 53 rue Montorgeuil in 2e), Lebovitz post

    • Le Grenier à Pain (18e) - rec'd by Time Out, won 17th Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris; Lebovitz also says their kouign amanns aren't bad....Le Grenier à Pain (Lafayette) - 91 rue Faubourg Poissonière (9e), was named one of the top 10 baguettes in Paris in 2013

    • Coquelicot - (18e, 24 rue des Abbesses, Montmartre) reviews here (rec'd by Clotilde, everydayparisian especially for baguettes/pastries, and others)

    • Moisan (12e) - rec'd by Time Out for bread and tarts

    • Boulangerie au 140 - 140 rue de Belleville (20e), closed Mon, has won both best baguette and best croissant competitions, shares space with a cheese shop, rec'd by Wells

    • 134 RdT - 134 rue de Turenne (3e), closed Sat/Sun, place famous for German-style Schwarzbrot, but also has won baguette and croissant competitions

    • [Comptoir Gana? 11e 54 Rue Oberkampf]

    • [Boulangerie/Pâtisserie Lacroux Jean Michel?? - 166 rue Faubourg-Poissonnière (10e, Barbès), next to Hotel Altona, 08 99 54 67 22, place that David Lebovitz loves, particularly for sesame baguettes...although the old owners retired and they no longe make the baguette, but do make croissants with a lot of butter]

    • Paris by Mouth's baguette competition: http://parisbymouth.com/2013-best-baguette-paris-winner-meilleur/ ...they also have a great map of all the top baguettes

Pâtisseries (Pastry Shops)

The other side of the boulangerie coin are pâtisseries, French pastry shops full of flaky, sweet confections. See Paris by Mouth's great map of the "best croissant" winners. This site has a list of places closed in August. --> David Lebovitz has a nice blogpost listing some of his favorites.

    • Des Gâteux et du Pain - 63 Boulevard Pasteur (15e), near Gare Montparnasse, closed Tues, pastry chef Claire Damon, Clotilde rec's, good croissants (best in Paris says this blog)

    • Pierre Hermé - 72 Rue Bonaparte (6e, Sun-Wed 10-7, Th/Fri 10-7:30, Sat 10-8), also 1er at 4 Rue Cambon, 2e at 39 Avenue de l'Opéra, 4e on rue SAinte-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, 8e at 133 Avenue des Champs-Elysées, and on 89 Boulevard Malesherbes, 9e in Galleries Lafayette, 15e at 185 Rue de Vaugirard, 16e at 58 Avenue Paul Doumer) highly rec'd by Time Out, rated best croissants in Paris by several places, also fancy macrons/chocolates/pâtes des fruits

    • Ladurée - 21 Rue Bonaparte (6e, Saint-Germain-des-Prés, M-F 8:30-7:30, Sat 8:30-8:30, Sun 10-7:30), www.laduree.fr...also 8e, 16 Rue Royale (8e, the original location, M-Th 8-7:30, F/Sat 8-8, Sun 10-7) and 75 avenue des Champs Elysées (8e, their largest store, open late: M-F 7:30-11pm, Sat 7:30-midnight, Sun 7:30-10pm), 64 Boulevard Haussmann (9e, Printemps de la Maison, 9:35-8 M-Sat, closed Sun, Thurs open until 8:45), also at the CDG and Orly airports, rated by this blog as the best tarte Tatin in Paris! ...some say it's just riding on its reputation, however.

      • they're also international: they've got shops in Rome (near Spanish Steps), Florence (S of the SMN train station), 2 locations in Milan, and 2 in New York

    • La Pâtisserie des Rêves (7e, 93 Rue du Bac, open every day but closes 4 PM Sun) - rec'd for kouign amann (although it has a non-traditional éclair/baguette shape)

    • Blé Sucré - 7 rue Antoine Vollon (12e), not far from Promenade Plantée, rec'd by Clotilde, Lebovitz also rec's kouign amanns, very nice round tarte Tatin, good croissants

    • Larnicol - 132 boulevard Saint-Germain (6e), also 14 rue de Rivoli (4e), part of a Breton empire, generally recognized as the best kouign amanns in Paris, rec'd by Lebovitz...but we were disappointed (seemed mass-produced, dry...many say you have to warm it up for it to taste good...?)

    • #Gérard Mulot - (6e at 76 Rue de Seine, open 6:45-8, closed Wed...also 3e at 6 rue du Pas de la Mule [in Marais near Place des Vosges] weekdays 10-7:30, weekends 8-7:30, closed Mon, 13e at rue de la Glacière with only sweet, not savory, items open 10-7:30 except closed Mon) www.gerard-mulot.com, rec'd by Time Out, Lobrano, not bad tarte Tatin, rec'd by Paris by Mouth as the "everyman's macaron" on their top 5 list, also good strawberry tarts

    • Fauchon - 26 Place de la Madeleine (8e), rec'd by Googler who says it's a rival to Hermé

    • Boulangerie Martin - 40 Rue Saint-Louis en l'Île, www.boulangerie-martin.fr, 7:30-2/3:30-8, closed Sun/Mon, rec'd by a Googler for croissants, this blog isn't as enthusiastic

    • Arnaud Larher - 93 Rue de Seine (6e), closed Mon, also 57 Rue Damrémont (18e, only macarons/chocolates) and 53 rue Caulaincourt (18e), rec'd by Time Out, Clotilde, not bad tarte Tatin, this blogger says they make the best macarons in Paris

    • #Hugo et Victor - 40 Boulevard Raspail (7e, M-W 10-8, Th-Sat 10-9, Sun 10-7), Marché Saint Honoré on 7 rue Gomboust (1e, N of Tuileries, M-W 10:30-2:30/3:30-7, Th-Sat 10:30-8, closed Sun), Printemps Haussmann on 64 Boulevard Haussmann (9e, M-Sat 9:35-8), hugovictor.com this blogger really liked their mango macarons, also rec'd here as one of the best pastry shops in Paris

    • Stohrer - (2e, 51 rue Montorgueil) rec'd by Clotilde, famous for popularizing baba au rhum; also mille-feuille/religeuses/éclairs rec'd

    • La Pâtisserie by Cyril Lignac - 11e, 24 rue Paul Bert rec'd by Lebovitz (including for the small kouign amann)

    • Les Petits Mitrons, 18e, 26 rue Lepic, rustic tarte Tatin

    • Le Moulin de la Vierge - (7e, 64 rue St Dominique, closed Tues, otherwise open 7:30-8:30) ...also location in 14e at 105 rue Vercingétorix, chowhounds rec'd tarte Tatin, Wells rec's the sourdough bread, and other pastries/breads, wood-fired oven

    • Pâtisserie Viennoise - 6e, 8 Rue de l'École de Médecine (near Sorbonne), closed Sat/Sun, highly rec'd by Lebovitz in The Sweet Life in Paris for its intense (barely sweetened) hot chocolate; he warns to get without whipped cream unless you want a lot, this blogging group preferred Angelina...they also have Vienna-style sachertorte and strudel

    • Pain de Sucre - 3e, 14 rue Rambuteau, open 10-8, closed T/Wed, www.patisseriepaindesucre.com, crazy flavors of marshmallows and macarons, more at Paris by Mouth

    • ***Chambelland - gluten-free bakery, used in some of Alain Ducasse's restaurants --> see below for more

Chocolatiers (Chocolate/Sweet Shops)

    • ***Jacques Génin (3e, 133 rue de Turenne, 11-7 T-Sun, 11-8 Sat, closed Mon/Aug) rec'd by Time Out, Clotilde, tartes, millefeuilles, menthe Amante with mint overload...used to be wholesale only; more reviews here, also good pâtes des fruits, hot chocolate, Lebovitz post ...also a new location in the 7th (see this map showing the concentration of high-quality pastry shops in the 7e!)

    • Christian Constant (6e, 37 Rue Assas, www.christianconstant.fr‎) rec'd by Time Out, Clotilde, ganache with verbena/jasmine/cardamom

    • Chocolat Alain Ducasse - Nicolas Berger, who works for Alain Ducasse, is one of the few chocolate-makers in Paris who actually makes chocolate from beans, www.lechocolat-alainducasse.com

      • La Manufacture de chocolat Alain Ducasse - 40 rue de la Roquette (11e, Tues-Sat 10:30-7, closed in Aug), this is the actual factory where the chocolate is made, praised by Lebovitz

      • Comptoir Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse (6e, 26 rue Saint-Benoît, T-Sun 10:30-7:30, Mon 1:30-7:30)

      • Galeries Lafayette Maison (9e, 35 bd Haussmann, F-W 9:30-8, Th 9:30-9) --> Lafayette Gourmet also has a Bordier butter outpost!

    • Angelina - 226 Rue de Rivoli (1er, Metro Tuileries, M-F 7:30-7, Sat/Sun 8:30-7, 01 42 60 82 00), 108 Rue du Bac (7e, M-Th 9-7:30, F/Sat 9-8, Sun 10-6) also in the Louvre and Versailles, www.angelina-paris.fr, famous for very thick hot chocolate, rec'd by Lebovitz and Wells (who also rec's the pastries including their famous Mont Blanc, meringue with whipped cream and chestnut), see this post for photos, more at Paris by Mouth...we went there in 2014 and enjoyed the hot chocolate (and fancy atmosphere), but the Mont Blanc was way too sweet

    • Fouquet - 36 rue Laffitte (9e), 01 47 70 85 00, also 22 rue François 1er (8e), www.fouquet.fr, makes amazing (but expensive) pâte des fruits and other candies on the premises, see photos in this wonderful Lebovitz post --> a "foo foo" shop but they sell amazing stuff

    • François Pralus - 44 rue Cler (7e, 01 45 56 13 75) and 35 Rue Rambuteau (4e, 01 48 04 05 16), single-origin chocolates (for those who like the chocolate itself, not necessarily making it pretty), they make a 100% cocoa bar that is to die for

    • A l’Etoile d’Or - (9e), Lebovitz's favorite candy shop, stocks Bernachon, a Lyon-based chocolatier praised by Lebovitz for making "small-scale" chocolate --> had explosion in Feb 2014

    • Jean-Paul Hévin (6e, 3 Rue Vavin) rec'd by Time Out, Clotilde, cheese fillings (!?) but also has classics (ganache, praline, truffles, etc.), also good pâtes des fruits, hot chocolate

    • Patrick Roger (6e) rec'd by Time Out, Clotilde, unusual flavors, more here, Lebovitz has nice photos

    • Jean-Charles Rochoux - 16 rue d'Assas (6e), closed Mon morning, Sun, 01 42 84 29 45, rec'd by Lebovitz

    • Cacao et Chocolat (6e) rec'd by Time Out, Aztec spices

    • Patrice Chapon (7e/16e), rec'd by Clotilde (e.g. for single-origin ganache)

    • Richart (7e) rec'd by Time Out

    • Michel Chaudun (7e) rec'd by Clotilde, more here

    • Alain Ducasse's La Manufacture de chocolat - 11e, 40 rue de la Roquette, bean-to-bar manufacture, T-Sat 10-7, closed Sun/Mon, lots more info and great photos at Lebovitz's blog

    • La Maison du Chocolat - 19 rue de Sèvres (6e, open 10-7:30 except Sun closes at 1) and other boutiques throughout Paris, including in Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports

Ice Cream

  • Berthillon - Île St Louis, 31 rue St. Louis-en-l'Île; this blog also rec's their tarte Tatin (2nd best in Paris, they say) in their salon de Thé next door, as does Lebovitz (as well as their hot chocolate)

  • Grom - (6e), open noon-midnight (1 hour earlier on Sun), Lebovitz has photos

  • Pozzetto - (4e, 39 rue Roi de Sicile and just down the street at 16 rue Vielle du Temple in the Marais) also good gelato, more here

  • Raimo - classic old ice cream place rec'd here (4e on 17 rue des Archives, 5e on 65 boulevard Saint Germain)

  • Martine Lambert - Norman-style ice cream, 7e, 39 rue Cler, closed Mon/Tues

  • Amorino - 47 rue Saint Louis en L’Ile (4e), 16 rue de la Huchette (5e), and lots of other locations, www.amorino.com, gelato

Fromageries (Cheese Shops)

  • Pascal Trotté (4e) - rec'd by Clotilde for Saint-Nicolas goat cheese, Comtés

  • Fromagerie Quatrehomme - (7e) rec'd by Time Out for beaufort and st-marcellin, rec'd by Clotilde for amazing variety (mostly raw milk, aged on site)

  • Barthélémy (7e) - rec'd by Clotilde for camambert

  • Alléosse (17e) - rec'd by Time Out

  • Chez Virginie (18e) - rec'd by Clotilde for Virginie Boularouah's good advice and artisanal collection

  • Laurent Dubois - 47 Boulevard Saint-Germain (5e), closed Mon, rec'd by chowhounders, www.fromageslaurentdubois.fr, Meilleur Ouvrier de France, more at Paris by Mouth

  • Fromagerie Sanders - rec'd by Paris by Mouth

  • Ferme Saint Hubert - 36 Rue de Rochechouart (9e), closed Sun, www.la-ferme-saint-hubert-de-paris.com, rec'd by chowhounders

Bistrots/Brasseries/Restaurants

While the distinction continues to blur, a French bistro is typically a home-style informal place, a brasserie is also relatively informal (like the Italian "osteria") and tends to be open in the afternoon (not just lunch and dinner), and a restaurant is a more formal, high-service experience (although there are also informal "restos"). This list is arranged by arrondissement; see the main Paris page for more information on the arrondissements. To decode recommendations, see Sources for Paris Food Information.

1er

  • Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - 110 Galerie de Valois, 01 40 20 00 27, MoP says "traditional setting and pure comfort food", TimeOut for being a "magical place" and "terrace chic"

  • Le Soufflé - 36 rue du Mont-Thabor, 01 42 60 27 19, closed Sun, MoP rec's soufflés but also other dishes, "slightly formal but not pretentious", Lebey also rec's for soufflé

  • Les Fines Gueules - 43 rue Crois-des-Petits-Champs, 01 42 61 35 41, www.lesfinesgueules.fr, open daily, wine bar (good for lunch or light dinner), open every day, rec'd by Lobrano, Time Out; innovative truffle/parmesan/sun-dried tomato steak tartare, Michelin rec's terrine de canard, coq au vin, boudin noir, tartelette au chocolat amer, good review by Lebovitz (ganache & crème brûlée!) but he warns of a change in 2012 (similar complaints--mostly about service to Americans, not the food--voiced here), more reviews here

  • ?La Régalade St-Honoré - 123 rue St-Honoré, 01 42 21 92 40, closed August, 24 Dec - 4 Jan, Sat/Sun, Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional, same chef as Régalade in the 14th, great reviews linked here, Pudlo kettle, although some disagree (mostly based on service/wine list)

  • Chez la Vieille "Adrienne" - 1 rue Bailleul, 01 42 60 15 78, closed Sat lunch, Sun, booking ahead essential, chef Michel del Burgo, Time Out rec's, Lobrano rec's for cuisine bougeoise (classical French cooking) with a twist, BoP rec's blanquette de veau, stuffed cabbage, crème caramel, favorite daube de boeuf (beef stew), pot au feu, Pudlo kettle

  • Lescure - 7 rue de Mondovi, www.lescure1919.fr, 01 42 60 18 91, closed Aug, 23 Dec-3 Jan, Sat/Sun, Lobrano rec's bistro (esp. terrine, bœuf bourguignon, poule au pot...although no longer in his book?), off Place de la Concorde, family-run since 1919, Michelin rec's cassoulet (also pâte en croûte, canard confit, poule au pot farcie), BoP rec's boeuf bourgignon, confit de canard

  • ?Pirouette - 5 rue Mondétour, 01 40 26 47 81, closed Sun, Lebey rates as one of the top bistros of 2013, great reviews linked here, also known for offal

  • Chez Flottes - 2 rue Cambon, 01 42 60 80 89, open daily, rec'd by Lebey for crêpes, œufs mayonnaise (deviled eggs), rotisserie chicken

  • Café de l'Époque - 2 rue du Bouloi, 01 42 33 40 70, open daily, rec'd by Lebey for œufs mayonnaise (deviled eggs)

  • Au Petit Théâte - 15 place due Marché-Saint-Honoré, 01 42 61 00 93, closed Sun/Mon, rec'd by Lebey for pâté en croûte, pig's feet

  • ?À la Tour de Montlhéry (Chez Denise) - 5 rue des Prouvaires, 01 42 36 21 82, closed Sat/Sun, rec'd by Lebey for pot-au-feu, old fashioned bistro, retro style, "sturdy French comfort food", huge portions, rec'd by Lobrano, Wells, Time Out, open late (5 am!), BoP rec's stuffed cabbage, charcuteries, côte du boeuf, pot-au-feu

  • Racines 2 - modern bistro rec'd by Wells

  • L'Ardoise - 28 rue du mont-Thabor, 01 42 96 28 18, closed most of Aug, Sat/Sun lunch, rec'd Fodor's, Time Out calls it "one of the city's finest modern bistros"; BoP rec's foie gras, Pudlo kettle

  • Spring - American chef Daniel Rose runs market-driven bistro in Les Halles, rec'd Lobrano, Wells

  • Verjus - American chef makes American-style high-quality food with French ingredients, rec'd Lobrano

  • L'Autobus Impérial - 14 rue Mondétour, 01 42 36 00 18, www.autobus-imperial.fr, closed Sun, rec'd by Time Out for traditional but innovative food

  • Bistrot Victoires - 6 rue de la Vrillière, 01 42 61 43 78, open daily, rec'd by Time Out for "serving no-nonsense food at generous prices", especially steak firtes, blanquette de veau

  • Haute Cuisine or Less Interested:

    • Gérard Besson - 5 rue Coq-Héron, closed Sat lunch, Mon lunch, Sun, Lebey rec's the Vol au vent, lièvre à la royale (expensive)

    • Paul - rec'd by MoP

    • Angelina - 226 Rue de Rivoli, 01 42 60 82 00, Belle Époque tearoom with great hot chocolate

    • Au Pied de Cochon - pork products, rec'd by MoP, run by chain now

    • Chez Pauline - BoP rec's boeuf bourgignon, rice pudding, rotisserie chicken

    • Willi's Wine Bar - BoP's favorite crème brûlée

    • Le Meurice - haute cuisine, expensive, closed Sun, rec'd by Lobrano

    • Aux Tonneaux des Halles - "old fashioned bistro...good, solid red-meat type of meal" *was* rec'd by Lobrano

2e

  • Terroir Parisien Bourse - outpost of popular Terroir Parisien opened in 2013, closed Sun, one of Paris by Mouth's favorites --> CLOSED

  • ?Chez Georges (Le Jeu du Mail) - 1 rue du Mail, 01 42 60 07 11, closed Aug, Christmastime, Sat, Sun, rec'd by Lobrano (who says Julia Child liked them and rec's the tarte Tatin), Wells, MoP (but warns "When they're good, they approach perfection, and when they're not, they are less than reliable"), and Michelin ("a true Parisian bistro...solid traditional cuisine"), Lebey rec's leg of lamb, œufs mayonnaise (deviled eggs), pommes frites, BoP rec's tarte tatin, escargots, more at Paris by Mouth

  • ?Frenchie - 5 rue du Nil, 01 40 39 96 19, www.frenchie-restaurant.com, dinner only, closed Sat/Sun, menu changes daily, market-based farm-to-table, rec'd by Lobrano, Michelin, Time Out, Wells; must reserve in advance (very few tables) but try his wine bar across the street if you can't score a reservation, great reviews linked here, Pudlo kettle

  • ?L'Escargot Montorgueil - 38 rue Montorgueil, 01 42 36 83 51, closed Sat lunch, MoP "descended from an earlier era; standard fare, but perfect ambiance", Lebey rec's escargots

  • Aux Lyonnais - 32 rue St-Marc, 01 42 96 65 04, www.alain-ducasse.com, Lyon-style (Rhône/Saône) run by Alain Ducasse, closed Aug, Sat lunch, Sun, Mon, rec'd by Lobrano, Michelin, Lebey (for quenelles), Pudlo gives 1 plate

  • ?Le Mesturet - 77 rue de Richelieu, 01 42 97 40 68, closed Sat lunch, Sun, rec'd by Lobrano, Lebey rec's tartare

  • Aux Crus de Bourgogne - 3 rue Bachaumont, closed Sat/Sun, Lebey rec's the bœuf bourgignon

  • Drouant - 16-18 place Gaillon, 01 42 65 14 16, www.drouant.com open daily, Lebey rec's the leg of lamb and bouchée à la reine but it's only served Wednesday lunch, Michelin recommends for traditional dishes with some modern twists, Time out rec's for innovative, global hors d'oeuvres, Pudlo gives 1 plate, Clotilde

  • Brasserie Gallopin - 40 rue Notre Dame des Victoires, 01 42 36 45 38, open daily, www.brasseriegallopin.com, rec'd by Michelin for escargot (Bib Gourmand, traditional), open since 1876, Victorian decor, old classics like tartare, baba

  • Le Vaudeville - 29 rue Vivienne, 01 40 20 04 62, www.vaudevilleparis.com, open daily, rec'd by Michelin for escargot, tête de veau, art deco decor, "pure Parisian tradition" says Michelin, rec'd by Lobrano ("intimate Parisian brasserie")

  • La Bourse ou la Vie - 12 rue Vivienne, 01 42 60 08 83, closed 1 week in Aug/Dec, Sat/Sun, rec'd by Time Out.

  • Haute Cuisine or Less Interested:

    • Le Grant Colbert - MoP "classic dishes served with panache"

    • Liza - Lebanese, closed Sat lunch, Sun eve, rec'd by Lobrano, Michelin

    • Le Pur'Grill - dinner only, "fusion", rec'd by Lobrano

    • Goust - Lobrano called it "the best new table in Paris this spring" in 2013

3e

  • ?Glou - 101 rue Vieille du Temple, 01 42 74 44 32, open daily, organic/high-quality ingredients

  • L'Ambassade d'Auvergne - 22 rue du Grenier-St-Lazare, 01 42 72 31 22, www.ambassade-auvergne.com, Auvergne (south-central France) regional specialties (chestnut soup, châtaignerie ham, pounti pork, etc), open daily, rec'd by Lobrano, Time Out, Wells, Michelin Bib Gourmand, Lebey (rec's the stuffed cabbage, pot-au-feu) - "country cooking"?, Pudlo kettle...several chowhounds say it's not good anymore

  • Au Bascou - 38 rue de Réamur, 01 42 72 69 25, www.au-bascou.fr, Basque cooking, closed Sat/Sun, rec'd by Lobrano, MoP, Michelin (for regional cooking), BoP for leg of lamb, Pudlo kettle

  • Pramil - www.pramilrestaurant.com, innovative French cooking rec'd by Lobrano

  • ***Breizh Café - 109 rue Vieille du Temple (there are also locations in Montorgeuil and Odéon), 01 42 72 13 77, closed Mon/Tues, Brittany specialties (especially crêpe/galette), closed Tues, rec'd by Lobrano, Time Out, Lebey (for crêpes/galettes), Clotilde (both traditional & innovative, Breton cider, galettes), great reviews linked here, book a few days in advance...one of the few places open on Sunday and it's delicious (and not too expensive)

  • Café des Musées - 49 rue de Turenne, 01 42 72 96 17, www.cafedesmusees.fr, "If only every café in Paris served good this good and reasonably priced", open daily, rec'd by Wells, Lobrano, Michelin ("typical Parisian bistro"), chowhound rec's tartare, Lebey gives 3 cocottes, Pudlo kettle, more reviews here --> we went there, it was very nice (and open on Sunday!) but nothing particularly special; simple dishes like radishes & butter were delicious; we think we got sick from the tartare (not because it was bad but because of how large it was)

  • Derrière - 69 rue des Gravilliers, 01 44 61 91 95, www.derriere-resto.com, open daily, Time Out rec's for "high-calorie comfort food" such as roast chicken and chocolate mousse

  • Le Hangar - 12 impasse Berthaud, 01 42 74 55 44, closed Aug, Sun/Mon, Time out says "it's worth making the effort to find this bistro"; BoP rec's foie gras, favorite mashed potatoes

  • ?L'Ami Louis - 32 Rue du Vertbois, rec'd by Patricia Wells, BoP for mushrooms, leg of lamb, favorite place for côte de beouf, poulet rôti, and foie gras, 1 cocotte from Lebey, NY Times calls it "the world's most famous bistro", Peter Mayle calls it an "institution...your appetite couldn't possibly be in better hands"...famous for lots of butter, huge foie gras, and entire roast chicken (they say it's for 2 but it can probably feed 3-4), see this blog meal report, a bit overpriced though (€57 for foie gras, cheapest main dish is €48, the prices especially led Vanity Fair to call it "the worst restaurant in the world")

  • Au Fil des Saisons - 6 rue des Fontaines du Temple, neo bistrot rec'd by Clotilde for "market driven" cuisine bourgeoise

  • Haute Cuisine or Less Interested:

    • Le Pamphlet - Basque-Béarnaise, closed Sat/Mon lunch, Sun, rec'd by Lobrano, BoP's favorite place for lamb, also rec's foie gras, calf's liver CLOSED

    • Le Carré des Vosges - stylish, rec'd by Lobrano, closed Mon/Sat lunch, Sun.

    • Chez Jenny - 39 boulevard du Temple, 01 44 54 39 00, rec'd by Wells, Lebey for choucroute, run by chain now

    • Crêperie Suzette - 24 rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 01 42 72 46 16, rec'd by Lebey (for crêpes/galettes)

    • Chez Janou - 2 Rue Roger Verlomme (near Place des Vosges), 01 42 72 28 41, www.chezjanou.com, open every day, mobbed by tourists but has good regional Provençal cuisine such as duck and ratatouille, famous for having "the best chocolate mousse in Paris", which happens to also be all-you-can-eat (!), rec'd by Frommer's; this review says their ingredients aren't that great, and some chowhounders think they've gone downhill (as of 2011) but other reviews are still good.

    • ?Robert et Louise - 64 rue Vieille du Temple, 01 42 78 55 89, www.robertetlouise.com, closed T/W lunch, Mon; old-school, family-run bistro, very rustic, "for carnivores only", especially rec'd for steak and potatoes (some say the other dishes are lacking?), popular with Americans after Anthony Bourdain featured it on his show, rec'd by lefooding, *was* rec'd by Lobrano but no longer (as of 2013)...perhaps because Robert passed away? --> it's back in his book as of 2014, daughter Pascale is now in the kitchen, rec'd MoP ("this place will never disappoint"), see this blogpost for photos

4e

  • Le Coude Fou - 12 Rue du Bourg-Tibourg (Metro Hotel de Ville, 4e), 01 42 77 15 16, Wikitravel says this local bistro is a "jewel" with its €17/25 prix-fixe lunch/dinner.

  • L'As du Falafel - 34 Rue des Rosiers, ec'd by Lobrano, Clotilde, closed Sat (Chez Hanna, up the street at 54 rue des Rosiers, closed Mon, is similar and Time Out calls it "a locals' secret"...Clotilde also rec's Mi-Va Mi and Rami et Hama)

  • Au Bourguignon du Marais - 52 rue François-Miron, 01 48 87 15 40, closed Sun/Mon, rec'd by Michelin for escargot (same for BoP, who also rec'd oeufs en meurette), Lebey for escargot, veal kidneys

  • ?Benôit - "a classic in all respects" says MoP, 1 Michelin star (they rec'd escargot, cassoulet, tête de veau)...but Lobrano says that while "[t]he food's still pretty good" its atmosphere has been ruined (see this 2012 review for more); Lebey rec's escargots, pâté en croûte; BoP rec's cassoulet, escargots, Pudlo gives 1 plate, rec'd by Wells (who calls it a "luxe version of a Paris bistro" and recommends lunch for the lower prices)...now run by Ducasse

  • Mon Vieil Ami - 69 rue Saint-Louis-en-l'Île, 01 40 46 01 35, closed Mon/Tues, based on Alsatian cooking, emphasis on vegetables, rec'd by Lobrano (but recently removed from his guidebook due to reports of bad service/reservation problems), MoP, Lebey, Wells, Time Out, Clotilde, Pudlo (1 plate)...although a chowhound says that "the food is horrible and I've never seen a local there since it opened" and Talbott says it's too inconsistent to recommend anymore, other reviews here

  • Le Loir Dans La Théière - 3 Rue des Rosiers, 01 42 72 90 61, known for their pies, rec'd by Googlers

  • Brasserie de L'Isle Saint-Louis - 55 quai de Bourbon, 01 43 54 02 59, www.labrasserie-isl.fr, closed Wed, Lebey rec's choucroute garnie, Time Out for great summer views from terrace, praised by Lobrano as "surprisingly good" and "he best choucroute I’d had a in a long time", more at Paris by Mouth

  • Le Vieux Bistro - 14 rue du Cloître Notre Dame, 01 43 54 18 95, open daily, rec'd by BoP for boeuf bourgignon, escargots, tarte tatin CLOSED

  • Le Trumilou - 84 Quai de l'Hôtel de Ville, 01 42 77 63 98, Auvergnat, Clotilde calls "a dining gem"

  • Café Les Rosiers - 2 rue des Rosiers, 01 48 87 94 09, open every day 9-6 (or 7:30-9?), "hasn't changed in donkeys", Evelyne has been running this family restaurant for 35 years, also Sakhoun Dagarian waits tables/welcomes guests, not many tables, some French reviewers claim it's the "pearl of the Marais" and that it's "exceptional cuisine", "rustic" with great welcome, another good review here, this Slow Travel post is less complementary although it's not clear they ever ate there; "finish your plate" says a sign

  • Le Sergent Recruteur - 1 Rue Saint-Louis en l'Île, 01 43 54 75 42, closed Sun/Mon, a bit expensive but highly rec'd by Talbott

  • Maison David - 6 rue des Ecouffes, butcher shop that serves good lunch, Jewish food, see Paris by Mouth for more

  • ?Glace Bachir - Lebanese ice cream shop, rec'd Lebovitz

  • Haute Cuisine or Less Interested:

  • La Baracane - SW French regional cooking, rec'd by MoP

  • Bofinger - oldest brasserie in Paris, MoP (also rec's Petit Bofinger, across the street) ...but Lobrano says "The beautiful decor at this historic brasserie...can't compensate for the kitchen's mediocrity and offhanded service", rec'd by Michelin for grilled meats, Lebey for choucroute, Time Out

  • L'Ambroisie - 3 Michelin stars, "classic", but Lobrano says "the joyless atmosphere and scantimoniousness service have unfailingly dampened my spirits during every meal I've ever had here", Lebey rec's sweatbreads, Pudlo gives 3 plates

  • Bistrot de L'Oulette - 38 rue des Tournelles, 01 42 71 43 33, closed Sat lunch, Sun, rec'd by Lebey for cassoulet, confit du canard (also rec'd by BoP)

  • Le Gaigne - 12 rue Pecquay, 01 44 59 86 72, www.restaurantlegaigne.fr, closed Sun/Mon, Mickaël Gaignon is former haute cuisine chef who has opened this tiny bistro with inventive food, husband-and-wife team, Mark Bittman likes

5e

  • Ribouldingue - 10 rue St-Julien-le-Pauvre, 01-46-33-98-80, closed Sun/Mon, Sat lunch, www.ribouldingue-restaurant.fr, rec'd by Lebey for its tripe, joue de bœuf, and other odd parts of animals; Paris by mouth says it's "not for the faint of heart, but for those who want to eat it"; rec'd by Michelin (Bib Gourmand) for tête de veau, tripe; Lobrano rec's as well (and one of his non-tripe-friendly friends says "I'd even willingly flight my way thorough some of the nasty business on the menu" for a slice of the tarte Tatin), Time Out, Pudlo kettle...when we went here in 2014 the tarte Tatin was no longer on the menu but we had a great meal; if you sit outside you have a view of the Notre Dame! --> CLOSED

  • Chez René - 14 boulevard Saint-Germain, 01 43 54 30 23, closed Sun/Mon, rec'd by Wells (although she mentions that her last visit was disappointing), Lebey rec's bœuf bourgignon and blanquette de veau, rec'd by Michelin for coq au vin; BoP's favorite place for boeuf bourgignon (as is Lobrano), also rec's charcuterie, coq au vin, rice pudding, like going into a time warp...but some chowhounders say it's not as good as it once was (ruined by Anthony Bourdain?)

  • L'A.O.C. - 184 rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard, 01 43 54 22 52, www.restoaoc.com, closed Sun/Mon, focuses on fresh produce/products that has the "AOC" (like Italian DOP) appellation, chef Jean-Philippe Lattron doesn't have formal training but loves regional products, his wife Sophie lived in NYC and speaks good English, rec'd by Michelin for grilled meats, Lobrano for marow with Guérande salt, terrine de foie gras, roast chicken/lab/pork, crème brûlée, Lebey for rotisserie chicken, Pudlo kettle --> we went there, popular with locals, fun staff, a meat eater's paradise...we had a great, quality but low-key meal here in 2012 --> CLOSED

  • Au Moulin à Vent - 20 Rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard, 01 43 54 99 37, rec'd by Michelin for grilled meats, escargot, Lebey for steak, frog legs, veal kidneys

  • Bistro des Gastronomes - 10 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, 01 43 54 62 40, Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional, Pudlo kettle

  • La Tour d'Argent - 15 Quai de la Tournelle, (across from Île Saint-Louis), 01 43 54 23 31, reservations a must, expensive, 1 Michelin star, "classic", Lebey rec's for quenelles, Time Out (haute cuisine), Pudlo gives 2 plates

  • Christophe - 8 Rue Descartes, 01 43 26 72 49, closed Wed/Thurs, "rising star" Christophe Philippe has modern cooking with influences from his Menton roots (including lemons his mom sends him from the south), rec'd by Lobrano, Pudlo kettle

  • ?Les Papilles - 30 rue Gay-Lussac, 01 43 25 20 79, closed Sat lunch, Sun, closes at 10, Lobrano rec's this wine shop/épicerie that is also a restaurant with a simple chalkboard no-choice menu; popular with "epicurean locals", Pudlo kettle, favorite of Paris by Mouth, and David Lebovitz (at least in 2007), Mark Bittman likes it, more at Paris by Mouth

  • Le Petit Pontoise - 9 rue de Pontoise, 01 43 29 25 20, open daily, rec'd by Lobrano as "quality bistro".

  • ?Le Pré Verre - 8 rue Thénard, 01 43 54 59 47, www.lepreverre.com, closed Sat lunch, Sun/Mon, Lobrano rec's this popular bistro; says they often use foreign ingredients ("cosmopolitan" food), Time Out (say they do very good job with spices), Clotilde says "maestro of herbs and spices" and "as much of a delicious steal as you're going to find in these city", Pudlo kettle [note: new management took over in 2013]

  • Mauzac - 7 rue de l'Abbé-de-Épée, 01 46 33 75 22, closed Sun (but open for dinner in summer), rec'd by Lebey for steak, BoP for charcuterie

  • Toustem - 12 rue de l'Hôtel-Colbert, 01 40 51 99 87, closed Sun/Mon, rec'd by Lebey for escargots

  • Terroir Parisien - 25 rue Saint Victor, 01 44 31 54 54, open daily, www.yannick-alleno.com/carnet/terroir-parisien, Locavore (!!) restaurant with Ile de France ingredients, good reviews, including those linked here, Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional, Lebey rates as one of the top bistros of 2013, Pudlo gives it "modern bistro of the year" for 2013 (and a kettle) --> our favorite restaurant in Paris, nice mix of traditional and innovative --> CLOSED

  • ?Atelier Maître Albert - 1 rue Maître-Albert, 01 56 81 30 01, closed Sat/Sun lunch, rec'd by Wells, Lebey for rotisserie chicken, Time Out

  • La Rôtisserie du Beaujolais - 19 quai de la Tournelle, 01 43 54 17 47, open daily, rec'd by Lebey for rotisserie chicken

  • Philippe Teillet - pastry shop rec'd by Lebovitz (and which won a prize for) its apple tarts

  • Haute Cuisine or Less Interested:

    • Le Balzar - open daily, rec'd by Wells, Lobrano (he says it's very popular with locals but the food is "pleasant but unremarkable" and more recommends it for the atmosphere?)

    • Le Buisson Ardent - contemporary French cooking closed Sat lunch, Sun, rec'd by Lobrano, Time Out ("adventurous")

    • Moissonnier - rec'd by Michelin for tripe, Lebey for quinelles

    • Chez Toutoune - BoP rec's for lamb

    • Le Réminet - 3 Rue des Grands Degrés, 01 44 07 04 24, www.lereminet.com, open daily until 11, BoP rec's crème brûlée, generally good reviews on chowhound but some are mixed (mostly about the service, not the food)

    • L'Écureuil, l'Oie, et le Canard - 3 rue Linné, 01 43 31 61 18, open daily, rec'd by Lebey for confit du canard

    • Marty - 20 Avenue des Gobelins, 01 43 31 39 51, rec'd by Michelin for grilled meats, tête de veau, Lebey for leg of lamb

6e

  • ##Le Timbre - www.restaurantletimbre.com rec'd by Googler and Paris by Mouth, 2016 Michelin Bib Gourmand

  • Le Bistrot d'Henri - 16 Rue Princesse, open daily until 11:30 PM, 01 46 33 51 12, Matt Barrett says "This is the kind of place you go to Paris for and if you go here first you will have time to eat here again.", Food and Wine says its food has a bit of a southern flair (tapenade, etc), Lebey gives no cocottes but says they do good standards

  • L'Epigramme - 9 rue de l'Éperon, 01 44 41 00 09 closed Sun eve, Mon, last welcome 9:45, book ahead, Lebey rec's the joue de bœuf, lièvre à la royale, soufflé, Lobrano says it's one of the few "very good modern French bistro[s]" on the Left Bank (rec's tête de veau, mackerel, artichoke, grouse, cod, pain perdu), Time Out ("tried and true classics with the occasional twist"), Mark Bittman rec's but chowhounder says to forget it ("the team is there now")

  • Joséphine (Chez Dumonet) - 117 rue du Cherche-Midi, 01 45 48 52 40, closed Sat/Sun, last welcome 10:30, old school bistro rec'd by Lobrano (boeuf bourgignon, foie gras, salade de mâche, truffle potatoes, pigeon in flaky pastry, Grand Marnier soufflé, "the atmosphere is almost as smooth and thick as the foie gras"); Lebey (3 cocottes, recommends getting half-plates) rec's foie gras, leg of lamb, soufflé, bœuf bourgignon, rec'd by BoP for boeuf bourgignon, confit de conard, foie gras, favorite gigot d'agneau (leg of lamb) and navarin d'agneau (lamb/mutton stew); various people rec'd the duck confit (Lebovitz includes it on his list of "10 Insanely Delicious Things You Shouldn’t Miss in Paris"), several people recommend half-portions since the full ones are very large! --> we went there, indeed the service was bad (but it was just our waiter--other tables including those with English speakers around us were OK), some dishes were good but overall we weren't impressed, nothing worth a special journey

  • La Méditerranée - 2 place de l'Odéon, 01 43 26 02 30, open every day except Christmas-New Year, Lebey and Michelin both rec'd Bouillabaisse, Pudlo kettle

  • Au Charpentiers - 10 rue Mabillon, welcome until 11:30 PM, closed Mon/Tues, rec'd by Lebey (1 cocotte) for blanquette de veau, BoP for stuffed cabbage, pot-au-feu, boeuf bourgignon

  • La Cuisine de Philippe - 25 rue Servandoni, 01 43 29 76 37, closed 2 weeks in Aug, near Christmas, Sun/Mon, rec'd by Michelin for soufflé, good prices, close to Luxembourg gardens

  • La Compagnie de Bretagne - 9 rue de l'École-de-Médecine, 01 43 29 39 00, www.compagnie-de-bretagne.com, all black-and-white decor, Celtic flavor, "gourmet crêpe-house", rec'd by Michelin for regional cooking (of Brittany)

  • La Ferrandaise - 8 rue de Vaugirard, 01 43 26 36 36, www.laferrandaise.com, Auvergne style, closed much of Aug, Mon/Sat lunch, Sun, open late (until midnight, last welcome 11 PM...otherwise last welcome is 10:30) on Fri/Sat, Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional, rec'd by Lobrano ("very popular with the locals"), Time Out, Lebey gives 2 cocottes, Pudlo kettle

  • La Maison du Jardin - 27 rue Vaugirard, 01 45 48 22 31, closed much of Aug, Sat lunch, Sun, reserve ahead, near Luxembourg gardens, "bounteous simplicity" with reasonably-priced wine says Michelin; Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional

  • ?La Marlotte - 55 rue du Cherche-Midi, 04 45 48 86 79, www.lamarlotte.com, open daily except closed 10-21 Aug, last welcome 10:30, Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional and in season (esp. rec'd herring, poultry liver terrine, skate), rec'd by Lebey (1 cocotte) for steak, Pudlo kettle

  • Le Timbre - 3 rue Sainte-Beuve, 01 45 59 10 40, www.restaurantletimbre.com, closed 1st week of May, late July-late Aug, Christmastime, Sun/Mon, welcome until 10:30, must reserve in advance (not many tables), English chef but traditional French food that is advertised on a chalk menu, Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional, rec'd by Lobrano ("homey but imaginative cooking"), Time Out, Lebey 2 cocottes, Pudlo kettle

  • Wadja - 10 rue de la Grande-Chaumière, 01 46 33 02 02, closed much of Aug, 1 week in February, Sat lunch, Sun/holidays, old-school bistro with good quality; BoP's favorite gigot de sept heures (lamb braised 7 hours)

  • ?Le Comptoir du Relais - 5 carrefour de l'Odéon, 01 44 27 07 50, open every day, final welcome 9:15 during week and 11 PM weekend, www.hotelrsg.com, must reserve for dinner, 30's style bistro with "generous traditional cuisine", lunchtime is traditional brasserie fare and dinnertime are more "refined"/creative dishes, rec'd by Michelin, Lobrano (but who says that Yves Camdeborde's place is less "earthy, lusty cooking" than his old Régalade, so "[t]he food here is very good but will never make you moan"), Time Out (dinners are often booked 6 months in advance!), Clotilde, Pudlo kettle

  • L'Alcazar - 62 rue Mazarine, rec'd by Lobrano, open daily, Pudlo kettle

  • Le 21 - 21 rue Mazarine, 01 46 33 76 90, closed Sun/Mon, rec'd by Wells, Time Out for both "homely prepartions" and "old classics" including chocolate fondant cake, Pudlo gives 1 plate

  • Ze Kitchen Galerie - 4 rue des Grands-Augustins, 01 44 32 00 32, www.zekitchengalerie.fr, closed 2 weeks in Aug, last week of Dec, Sat lunch, Sun, Asian influences in this 1 Michelin star restaurant with fairly reasonable prices (€27 lunch workday menu, other menus €40-82), Lobrano says "contemporary French fusion at its very best" (rec's gazpacho with beets/ginger, shrimp, moloreddus, asparagus with buratta, lamb, cappuccino), Pudlo gives 1 plate

    • Also KGB Kitchen Galerie Bis - 25 rue des Grands-Augustins, 01 46 33 00 85, www.kitchengaleriebis.com, closed 3 weeks in Aug, Sun/Mon, last welcome 10:45, Lebey gives 2 cocottes and "coup de cœur"

  • La Bastide Odéon - 7 Rue Corneille, 01 43 26 03 65, Mediterranean-inspired menu, closed Sun/Mon, rec'd by Lobrano, Lebey for steak, vegetables, BoP for crème brûlée

  • Au Bon Saint Pourçain - 10 bis Rue Servandoni, 01 43 54 93 63, welcome until 11 PM, closed Sat/Sun, cash only, rec'd by Lobrano ("good, friendly, low-effort bistro meal"), Lebey no cocottes

  • ?L'Épi Dupin - 11 rue Dupin, 01 42 22 64 56, welcomes until 11 PM, closed Mon lunch, Sat/Sun, François Pasteau serves very good food, "one of the best modern French bistros in Paris" says Lobrano...but he warns that it's "unpleasantly crowded" and turns tables very quickly; he recommends coming in a group of 3 or more and coming for late lunch or last orders for the 2nd dinner service, Lebey says reservations are essential (but one can order plates to go and reheat at home!), Pudlo kettle, locavore

  • ?Au Pied du Fouet - 3 rue Saint Benoit, 01 42 96 59 10, www.aupieddefouet.fr [website is broken?], closed Sun, Lonely Planet, Lobrano rec's this branch of a 7ème hole-in-the-wall for being "as close as you can get to tasting homey old-fashioned French home cooking without being invited to dinner", rec's gizzards/liver (salade gesier), tarte Tatin, confit de canard also rec'd (see this blog with photos)

  • Lapérouse - 51 quai des Grands-Augustins, 01 56 79 24 31, www.laperouse.fr, closed 1 week in Jan/Aug, Sat lunch, Sun, Time Out calls "one of the most romantic spots in Paris", "modern take on classic French cooking"

  • Comme à Savonnières - 18 rue Guisarde, 01 43 29 52 18, closed Sun/Mon, last welcome midnight, Lebey gives 1 cocotte, "very nice bistro" with products from the city, "not at all a tourist trap" in this touristy area

  • Les Bouquinistes - modern bistro run by Guy Savoy, rec'd by Wells

  • Semilla - 54 rue de Seine, 01 43 54 34 50, open daily, last welcome 11 PM, Lebey rates as one of the best bistros of 2013

  • Invictus - 5 Rue Sainte-Beuve, Pudlo highly recommends, also rec'd by Michelin

  • Allard - 41 Rue Saint-André des Arts, 01 43 26 48 23, www.restaurant-allard.fr, open daily, turn-of-the-(20th)-century decor, Alain Ducasse, rec'd by Michelin for escargot, BoP for coq au vin, favorite escargots, Lobrano sighs that although the food is still good, it's reached a "tipping point" and is now "an American bistro in Paris" --> but it's back in his book as of 2014, Patricia Wells also gives a reasonably good review, Pudlo also praises it and its chef, Laetitia Rouabah, Burgundian dishes, Paris by Mouth says "reviews are mixed", Zagat also says it's touristy but good, John Talbott is not impressed

  • Little Breizh - 11 rue Grégoire de Tours, T-Fr 11-3/6:15-11:30, Sat/Sun 11-11:30, closed Mon, no reservations, little Breton crêpe/galette place amongst the tourist traps, all organic, rec'd by Wells and Lebovitz,

  • Haute Cuisine or Less Interested:

    • Relais Louis XIII - 8 rue des Grands-Augustins, 01 43 26 75 96, www.relaislouis13.com, closed Aug, Sun/Mon, holidays,16th century building, Michelin especially rec's the lunch menu, 2 Michelin stars, "classic", lunch prix-fixe menu €50, dinner €80-135 but Lobrano calls it a "dusty old dowager" and says that its two Michelin stars are "a total mystery", Pudlo gives 2 plates

    • Chez Maître Paul - rec'd by BoP for coq au vin, escargots

    • La Closerie des Lilas - 171 Boulevard de Montparnasse, 01 40 51 34 50, open daily, rec'd by Wells, Lebey for cassoulet (served on Thursdays in winter), crêpes, œufs mayonnaise (deviled eggs), tartare

    • Le Caméléon - 6 rue de Chevreuse, closed Sun/Mon, rec'd by Lebey for blanquette de veau

    • Fish La Boissonnerie - 69 rue de Seine, 01 43 54 34 69, open daily except closed 1 week in Aug and 20 Dec - 2 Jan, in an old fish shop, "a must in this quarter" says Michelin, Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional

7e

  • Chez L'Ami Jean - 27 rue Malar, 01 47 05 86 89, closed Sun/Mon, welcome until midnight, inspired by SW France/Basque region, "sincere, happy place is one of the best buys on the Left Bank", rec'd by Lobrano (who rec's the "calmer second service" for dinner), Lebey (3 cocottes) rec's the joue de bœuf (beef cheeks), game, veal kidneys, Time Out rec's bread, squid, veal shank, cod, etc., Clotilde, Pudlo gives 1 plate, a lot of food --> we went there, it was one of the most interesting meals we've had, lots of peas & bacon, extremely inventive and fun food experience

  • Chez les Anges - 54 boulevard de la Tour-Maubourg, 01 47 05 89 86, www.chezlesanges.com, closed Sat/Sun, tradition and modernity, Michelin Bib Gourmand (they recommend a few odd things like pig's feet pie, calf's liver), traditional; Lebey rec's frog legs, Pudlo gives 1 plate, husband-and-wife team?

  • Le Bistrot du 7ème - 56 boulevard de la Tour-Maubourg, 01 45 51 93 08, www.bistrotdu7.com, open daily, very reasonable prices (€15 workday lunch menu, €17-25 fixed price), rec'd by Michelin for escargot, rabbit terrine with duck confit, "authentic bistro" with paper napikins

  • Le Petit Niçois - 10 rue Amélie, near rue St-Dominique, specializes in southern/Provençal food, open daily, rec'd by Michelin for escargot & bouillabaisse (& regional Nice cooking), Pudlo kettle

  • ?D'Chez Eux - 2 avenue de Lowendal, 01 47 05 52 55, www.chezeux.com, open daily except closed in Aug, last welcome 10:30, SW style food, nice "country home" feel, rec'd by Michelin for cassoulet, won a prize for best œufs mayonnaise (deviled eggs), BoP's favorite place for boudin, also rec's charcuteries, confit de canard, coq au vin, côte du boeuf, foie gras, Time Out says this is SW "auberge" that requires "stamina" (e.g. for chocolate mousse at the end), Lebey 1 cocotte

  • Christian Constant's restaurants - www.maisonconstant.com, all on the same block:

    • Le Violon d'Ingres - 1 Michelin star (they rec'd cassoulet and soufflé), Lobrano thinks they're "overpriced", Lebey rec's cassoulet, steak, game, Pudlo gives 1 plate

    • Café Constant - 139 rue St-Dominique, open daily, last welcome 11, no reservations, run by Christian Constant, Michelin Bib Gourmand ("gourmet bistrot food at easy prices"), traditional, rec'd by Clotilde, Lebey 2 cocottes, Pudlo kettle

    • Les Cocottes - 135 rue St-Dominique, closed Sun (??), last welcome 10:30, doesn't take reservations (or impossible to get?), name means "casserole dish" since everything is served in one (terrine de campagne, côte de veau, etc.), Michelin Bib Gourmand, rec'd by Time Out, Pudlo kettle

    • Les Fables de La Fontaine - 131 rue Saint-Dominique, 01 44 18 37 55, closed Sun/Mon (??), last welcome 10:30, focuses on seafood, Lobrano's favorite of Constant's restaurants, menu changes daily, rec'd by Clotilde, Pudlo (1 plate)

  • Auguste - 54 Rue de Bourgogne, closed most of Aug, Sat/Sun, 1 Michelin star but relatively reasonable prices (€35 lunch and €85 dinner fixed-price; à la carte is a bit more), (Michelin rec's soufflé, as well as foie gras, monkfish [lotte], various dishes with asian influences), rec'd by Lobrano, Pudlo gives 1 plate

  • Le Clos des Gourmets - 16 avenue Rapp, 01 45 51 76 61, www.closdesgourmets.com, closed most of Aug, Sun/Mon, "neo-bistro", crème brûlée with asparagus and other neat combinations, Michelin Bib Gourmand, Pudlo kettle

  • ?Au Bon Accueil - 14 rue de Monttessuy, 01 47 05 46 11, www.aubonaccueilparis.com, closed part of Aug, Sat/Sun, last welcome 10:30, near Eiffel tower, in-season food, Michelin Bib Gourmand, BoP rec's côte du boeuf, Time Out rec's fish, chicken, and fine pastries, Lebey 2 cocottes/coup de cœur, Pudlo kettle

  • L'Affriolé - 17 rue malar, 01 44 18 31 33, closed part of Aug, Sun/Mon, last welcome 10:30, chef cooks what's fresh in the market, Michelin Bib Gourmand, Lebey 2 cocottes

  • La Fontaine de Mars - 129 rue Saint-Dominique, 01 47 05 46 44, www.fontainedemars.com, open daily until 11, Obamas visited so you must reserve well in advance, Lobrano rec's for Sunday lunch, "Hollywood set of a bistro", especially rec's blanquette de veau, SW French specialties, oeufs au Madiran, cassoulet; Lebey rec's for cassoulet, rec'd by BoP for boudins, tarte tatin, favorite place for confit de canard; several chowhounds say that it's become mediocre and more of a place that "looks like a classic bistro"

  • Le Florimond - 19 Avenue de La Motte-Picquet, 01 45 55 40 38, www.leflorimond.com, closed Sat/Mon lunch (and Sat dinner on 1st of month), Sun, Lobrano rec's for Auvergne specialties (like stuffed cabbage), "[s]ome of the best home-style bistro cooking in Paris"; Lebey and BoP also rec'd the stuffed cabbage

  • Les Botanistes - 11 bis rue Chomel, 01 45 49 04 54, closed Sat/Sun, Lobrano rec's "charmer" of a bistro, Pudlo kettle (he says they are a "warm heart in winter", also see his more recent post), also rec'd by Michelin, Girl's Guide to Paris, but John Talbott does not recommend

  • Au Pied de Fouet - 45 rue de Babylone, 01 47 05 12 27, www.aupieddefouet.fr, closed Sun, Lobrano rec's for being "as close as you can get to tasting homey old-fashioned French home cooking without being invited to dinner" (also a branch in 6ème), confit du canard is rec'd, Lebey no cocottes, Pudlo rec's

  • La Table d’Aki - 49 rue Vaneau, 01 45 44 43 48, closed Sun/Mon, Akihiro Horikoshi does a one-man show at this 16-seat tiny place, reserve at least ~2 weeks in advance, often features fish

  • Au Petit Tonneau - 20 rue Surcouf, 01 47 05 09 01, closed Mon, closed 2 weeks in Aug, last welcome 10:30, Ginette Boyer "cuisine de femme", BoP's favorite place for mushrooms and tarte tatin; Pudlo rec's despite that "numerous American neighbors go crazy for it", Lebey 1 cocotte

  • L'Affable - 10 rue de Saint-Simon, 01 42 22 01 60, closed Sat/Sun, 1 week at Christmas and 3 weeks in Aug, welcome until 10:30, new place, Lebey gives 3 cocottes

  • L'Auberge Bressane - 16 Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, 01 47 05 98 37, www.auberge-bressane.com, closed Sat lunch, BoP rec's coq au vin, Lebey 1 cocotte, rec'd by Pudlo (e.g. poached eggs, sole), open until 10:45, closed Sat lunch, Lyon (Rhône/Alpes) classics (and a bit of Burgundy) by Jérôme and Stéphane Dumant, old-fashioned (1950s/châteaux decor), tripe, cheese/Grand Marinier soufflé also rec'd, reservations a must

  • Haute Cuisine or Less Interested:

    • L'Arpège - expensive (€130 for lunch, €350 for dinner!) but relatively simple dishes, closed Sat/Sun, 3 Michelin stars, rec'd by Lobrano, Lebey (rec's rotisserie chicken), Time Out, Pudlo gives 3 plates

    • L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon - tapas-style bar eating, no reservations apart from 11:30 and 6:30, rec'd by Lobrano, 2 Michelin stars (still expensive: fixed price menu €165, à la carte runs €62-132), Lebey rec's lièvre à la royale, Pudlo gives 2 plates

    • Le Voltaire - closed Sun/Mon, Lobrano says "don't expect gastronomic revelations but rather a solidly good Gallic feed"; somewhat expensive for a bistro, rec'd by Lebey for œufs mayonnaise (deviled eggs), veal kidneys

    • Vin sur Vin - 20 rue de Monttessuy, 01 47 05 14 20, closed much of Aug, 22 Dec-8 Jan, closed Mon (open for dinner from Sept-March), Sat lunch, Sun, very few tables so reserve ahead, large wine list, traditional cuisine, rec'd by Michelin for soufflé, "classic"

    • Cigale Récamier - 4 rue Récamier, 01 45 48 86 58, closed Sun, rec'd by Michelin and Lebey for soufflé

    • Pottoka - 4 rue de l'Exposition, 01 45 51 88 38, closed Aug, near Christmas, and Sun, rec'd by Michelin (Bib Gourmand) for Basque food

    • Tante Marguerite - 5 rue de Bourgogne, 01 45 51 79 42, closed Sat/Sun, rec'd by Lebey for escargots, sweetbreads, Pudlo gives 1 plate

    • Le Bistrot de Paris - 33 rue de Lille, 01 42 61 16 83, closed Sun/Mon, welcome until 11, rec'd by Lebey (1 cocotte) for œufs mayonnaise (deviled eggs)

    • Cinq-Mars - 51 rue de Verneuil, 01 45 44 69 13, closed Sun, last welcome 11, rec'd by Lebey (1 cocotte) for pot-au-feu

8e

  • ?Tante Louise - 41 rue Boissy-d'Anglas, 01 42 65 06 85, closed Sat/Sun, Lebey rec's bœuf bourgignon, veal kidneys, Michelin rec's soufflé, Pudlo 1 plate

  • ?Le Griffonier - closed Sat/Sun, lunch only except Thurs, Lobrano says "excellent old-fashioned bistro cooking", rec's escargots, foie gras, confit de canard, steak, blanquette de veau, choucroute garni, etc., a bit of a "power lunch" place, more at Paris by Mouth

  • ***Lazare - in the Gare St-Lazare, Norman chef Eric Fréchon opened this in 2013 to branch out from his 3-star restaurant, www.lazare-paris.fr, Lobrano notes it is a renaissance/homage to brasserie cooking, Pudlo Paris 2014 named it "brasserie of the year", open every day 7:30 AM to midnight (breakfast until 11, tea 3-6 PM...otherwise full lunch/dinner menu), some chowhounds liked it but Paris By Mouth did not have good service, see this blogpost for photos; we had a delicious lunch here in 2014 (and it was super-convenient to eat there on the way to Giverny, since the trains leave from the train station)

  • ?Caillebotte - locavore place, rec'd Le Figaro, Time Out

  • L'Affiche - 48 rue de Moscou, 01 45 22 02 20, closed Sat lunch, Sun, Lebey rec's Bouillabaisse, pot-au-feu

  • Cafe Sud - rec'd by Michelin for grilled meats

  • Dominique Bouchet - 11 Rue Treilhard, 01 45 61 09 46, www.dominique-bouchet.com, closed Sat/Sun, Lobrano rec's the "brilliantly simple and understated contemporary French cooking" (esp. terrine, charlotte, cod, pigeon, duck, poached peach, raspberry gelée), Pudlo gives 1 plate

  • Rue Balzac - 3-5 rue Balzac, closed Sat/Sun lunch, rec'd by Lebey for blanquette de veau, tartare

  • Les 110 de Taillevent (formerly L'Angle du Faubourg) - 195 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, 01 40 74 20 20 www.taillevent.com, open daily, more moderately priced version of Taillevent next door, Lobrano said the old L'Angle du Faubourg was "one of the best contemporary French restaurants" but the new restaurant disappoints, now focused on wine/food pairings, a bit expensive, more info here

  • L'Abordage - 2 Place Henri-Bergson, 01 45 22 15 49, open lunch M-T, Th-F and dinner Wed, rec'd by Lobrano ("clubby workaday bistro" with "French classics" like oeufs mayonnaise, terrine, herring, côte de boeuf/veau, entrecôte, crème brûlée), Pudlo kettle

  • Alain Ducasse au Plaza-Athénée - 3 Michelin stars, rec'd by Lobrano as "the model for French haute cuisine", rec'd by Time Out, very expensive (prix fixe €260-360), Pudlo gives 3 plates

  • La Cave Beauvau - Lobrano rec's as "old-fashioned bistro", Pudlo kettle

  • Le Bristol - rec'd by Lobrano, expensive

  • Le Cinq (aka George V) - haute cuisine, rec'd by Lobrano, Pudlo gives 2 plates

  • Garnier - seafood, rec'd by Lobrano

  • Ledoyen - in a tree-filled pavilion, rec'd by Lobrano "one of the loveliest settings in Paris", expensive, Pudlo gives 3 plates

  • Le Maxan - rec'd by Lobrano, Time Out

  • Pierre Gagnaire - "the most extreme chef in Paris" says Lobrano; rec'd by Time Out (haute cuisine), Pudlo gives 3 plates

  • Le Senderens and Le Passage - expensive "brasserie de luxe", rec'd by Lobrano, Time Out, Lebey rec's game, lièvre à la royale, Pudlo gives 2 plates

  • ?Le crom'exquis - 22 rue d'Astorg, 01 42 65 10 74, www.cromexquis.com, closed Sat/Sun, welcome until 10, Lebey rates as one of the top bistros of 2013, Pudlo gives 1 plate ("classic bistro of the year")

  • Au Bœuf sur le Toit - 34 rue de Colisée, 01 53 93 65 55, open daily, rec'd by Lebey (for crêpes)

  • Aux Amis du Beaujolais - 28 rue d'Artois, 01 45 63 92 21, open daily, rec'd by Lebey for œufs mayonnaise (deviled eggs)

  • Évasion - 7 place Saint-Agustin, 01 45 22 66 20, closed Sat/Sun, rec'd by Lebey for œufs mayonnaise (deviled eggs)

  • Granterroirs - 30 rue de Miromesnil, 01 47 42 18 18, www.granterroirs.com, closed Sat/Sun, food served 12-3 at table d'hôte with 5 dishes (come early to try them all)

  • Haute Cuisine or Less Interested:

    • Laurent - 1 Michelin star (they rec'd soufflé)

    • Stella Maris - 4 rue Arsène-Houssaye, 01 42 89 16 22, haute cuisine, closed Sat lunch/Sun, rec'd by Time Out, Michelin for tête de veau, Lebey for lièvre à la royale, Pudlo 1 plate

    • Apicius - 2 Michelin stars, "classic", Lobrano says that diners who aren't famous "often get lost in the shuffle"

    • Lasserre - 2 Michelin stars, "classic", Lobrano says "the prices here are blood-curdling, and the experience of a meal is much too grandmotherly", rec'd by Lebey (for crêpe suzette), Time Out, Pudlo gives 2 plates

    • Laurent - 1 Michelin star, "classic", Pudlo gives 2 plates

    • Taillevent - 2 Michelin stars, "classic", Lobrano says it's "the diva of dining in Paris" but isn't stuffy, haute cuisine, Pudlo gives 3 plates

    • Fouquet's - Michelin rec's, "classic"

    • Royal Madeleine - rec'd by Michelin for escargot

    • Ma Bourgogne - rec'd by BoP for boeuf bourgignon, coq au vin, escargots

    • Chez Catherine - BoP rec's crème brûlée, John Talbott rec's foie gras

9e

  • La Table des Anges - 66 rue des Martyrs, closed Sun/Mon, Burgundy place rec'd by Jancis Robinson, Lobrano also rec's

  • Le Climats - 41 rue de Lille, Burgundy place rec'd by Jancis Robinson

  • Chez Grenouille - 52 rue Blanche, Paris by Mouth calls it "an address for old school charcuterie and meat of all kinds."

  • Le Clos Bourguignon - 39 Rue de Caumartin, 01 47 42 56 60, www.leclosbourguignon.com, country cooking?

  • Carte Blanche - Lobrano rec's the "excellent, imaginative contemporary French food", as does Clotilde

  • Casa Olympe - 48 rue Saint-Georges, 01 42 85 26 02, closed Sat/Sun, bistro that focuses on Corsican food, great female chef (Olympe Versini), Lobrano rec's ("a place to go anytime you want a really good stick-to-your-ribs meal and a little bit of babying", Lebey for vegetables, sweetbreads, BoP for crème brûlée, Clotilde, Puldo (1 plate)

  • ?Le Pétrelle - 34 rue Pétrelle, 01 42 82 11 02, dinner only, closed Sun/Mon, Lobrano says this candle-lit restaurant is "dreamy", rec'd by Time Out for high-quality ingredients from local producers, and say €29 prix fixe menu is a bargain, Pudlo gives 1 plate

  • J'Go - 4 rue Drouot, 01 40 22 09 09, closed Sun, Gascony specialties, the name is a pun on "gigot" (as in "leg" of lamb), rec'd by Lebey for cassoulet, leg of lamb, rec'd by Time Out for lamb, pig, and chickens, Clotilde

  • Le Paprika - 28 avenue Trudaine, 01 44 63 02 91, rec'd by Lebey for chou farci (stuffed cabbage)

  • L'Alsaco - 10 rue Concordat, 01 45 26 44 31, closed Sat lunch, Sun, rec'd by Lebey for choucroute

  • Bourgogne Sud - 14 rue de Clichy, 01-48-74-51-27, closed Sat lunch, Mon dinner, Sun, Burgundy regional specialties, generally good review from Lobrano, Pudlo kettle

  • Le Roi du Pot-au-Feu - 34 rue Vignon, 01 47 42 37 10, closed Sun, rec'd by Lebey for pot-au-feu

  • L'Office - 3 rue Richer, 01 47 70 67 31, closed Sat/Sun, Pudlo kettle, contemporary modern French bistro run by 2 American chefs, more here

  • ***Les Canailles - 2 locations although we ate at the one in Pigalle (25 Rue la Bruyère); delicious, delicious food for fairly reasonable prices, reserve in advance! Fairly kid-friendly...they didn't have high chairs but they made a nice "pommes dauphines" (sort of like super-fancy, delicious tater tots) for our 3 year old. Pudlo kettle, one of his favorite places, more at Paris by Mouth

  • Chartier - Clotilde highly rec's, "bouillon" experience, no reservations but brisk

  • Spring - no menu, Chicago-born chef, rec'd by Clotilde

  • Le Bon Georges - 45 rue Saint Georges, rec'd by Lobrano as "my pretty much perfect neighborhood bistro in the 9th", John Talbott agrees

  • ?Glaces Glazed - ice cream shop with innovative flavors, rec'd Lebovitz

  • Haute Cuisine or Less Interested:

    • Le Chenin - cuisine de terroir?

    • Au Petit Riche - rec'd by Michelin for escargot, tête de veau

    • Le Pré Cadet - rec'd by Michelin for escargot, tête de veau (Bib Gourmand)

    • Le Pantruche - rec'd by Michelin for soufflé (Bib Gourmand), Pudlo kettle...also locavore?

10e

  • La Pointe du Grouin - 8 rue de Belzunce (near Gare du Nord), closed Sat/Sun, wine bar rec'd by Paris by Mouth for Breton favorites including kouign amann

  • La Grille - 80 rue de Faubourg-Poissonnière, 01 47 70 89 73, closed Sat/Sun, run by Geneviève and Yves Cullerre for 40 years, Lebey rec's beurre blanc nantais, Lobrano says that it's worth going to "this warm and wonderful old-fashioned bistro before the owners retire" for a "classic Gallic feed" (also rec's duck terrine, mackerel, boeuf bourguignon, turbot in beurre blanc/nantais, oeufs à la niege), BoP rec's boeuf bourgignon

    • appears that they did retire in 2010, and these chowhounds say it's not the same, but these chowhounds say the turbot sauvage with beurre blanc is still worth it; (this guy says it's "like l'Ami Louis without the inflated prices")

  • Chez Casimir - Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional, Clotilde

  • Chez Marie-Louise - Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional, rec'd by BoP for boeuf à la ficelle, calfoutis, coq au vin

  • ?Chez Michel - 10 rue de Belzunce, 01 44 53 06 20, closed Mon lunch, Sat/Sun, reservations essential, Lobrano says Theirry Breton "is one of the best young chefs in Paris", contemporary bistro cooking with Breton favorites (including kouign amman), near Gare du Nord, Lebey rec's game, Pudlo kettle, rec'd by Clotilde, Lebovitz, see Paris by Mouth and this blogpost for more

  • Brasserie Flo - 7 cour des Petites-Écuries, 01 47 70 13 59, open daily, rec'd by Lebey for choucroute

  • Terminus Nord - 23 rue de Dunkerque, 01 42 85 05 15, open daily, rec'd by Lebe for choucroute

  • La Fidélité - 12 rue de la Fidélité, 01 47 70 19 34, www.lafidelite.com, closed Sun, Time Out says it has "good, well priced food" such as the lunch prix fixe, says "joie de boeuf is sublime"

  • Le Galopin - Pudlo kettle

  • Le Verre Volé - 67 rue de Lancry, 01 48 03 17 34, open daily, also location in 11e, wine shop that also has very nice small plates of artisanal goods, highly rec'd by Paris By Mouth (who also link to other reviews, such as Lobrano, Lebovitz, etc.), Lebey (2 cocottes)

11e

  • ***Boulangerie Chambelland - 14 Rue Ternaux, 11e, gluten-free place but I had the best quiche and the best fondant de chocolat I've had with or without gluten! Great place for breakfast, lunch or snack

  • ##Astier - 44 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud 01 43 57 16 35, www.restaurant-astier.com, open daily (except in August, is closed Sun and Mon/Sat lunch), rec'd by Michelin for cheeses, Lobrano also rec's the prix fixe menu ("one of the best buys of Paris") that includes "the legendary cheese course" (also rec's herring, foie gras, fricassee, entrecôte, turbot, crème caramel), BoP's favorite rabbit, lamb stew, Pudlo kettle, Clotilde praises "grandmotherly repertoire", Talbott rec's. In David Lebovitz's book My Paris Kitchen, he praises their moelleux au chocolat (chocolate lava cake) as being the best he's tried (see his somewhat dated review here).

  • ## Chanceux - very fresh, farm-to-table place highly rec'd David Lebovitz

  • Chez Paul - 13 Rue de Charonne, www.chezpaul.com, rec'd by Lebovitz

  • ##Au Passage - www.restaurant-aupassage.fr rec'd by Googler and Paris By Mouth

  • Pierre Sang in Oberkampf - locavore

  • La Ravigote - 41 Rue de Montreuil, 01 43 72 96 22, country cooking? ("cuisine de terroir")

  • Auberge Pyrénées Cévennes - 106 rue de la Folie-Méricourt, 01 43 57 33 78, closed Sat lunch, Sun, rec'd by Michelin for cassoulet (Bib Gourmand), specializes in SW French cuisine (near Aveyron), Lobrano says it "defines the genre" of bistro, rec's foie gras, endive salad, herring, cod pie, cassoulet, Saint-Marcellin cheese; Lebey rec's cassoulet, moules marinières; BoP rec's charcuterie, foie gras, calf's liver, quenelles, Pudlo kettle

  • ?Bistrot Paul Bert - 18 rue Paul Bert, 01 43 72 24 01, closed Fri/Sat lunch, Sun/Mon, very popular, hot bistro, Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional, Lobrano rec's for "well-prepared seasonal comfort food" and desserts, rec'd by Lebey (3 cocottes) for steak, Time Out (for various dishes including île flottante), Lebovitz, Pudlo kettle, Clotilde praises "unfussy cuisine that never disappoints", Paris by Mouth calls it "a carnivore’s paradise...[n]ot for the faint of heart, or appetite"

    • also sister restaurant 6 Paul Bert - especially rec'd by Lebovitz

  • ?Villaret - 13 rue Ternaux, 01 43 57 89, 76, closed Sat lunch, Sun, Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional, one of the first quality bistros in Paris, Lobrano rec's for winter vegetables/foie gras, asparagus/artichokes, terrine de tête, monkfish cheeks, roast chicken, roast lamb, strawberry/raspberry with shortbread, sautéed cherries, pear clafoutis; Lebey (3 cocottes) rec's hachis Parmentier; BoP mushroom dishes, Pudlo kettle

  • Le Chauteaubriand - 129 avenue Parmentier 01 43 57 45 95, closed Sat lunch, Sun, rec'd by Lobrano, who calls Inaki Aizpitarte "one of the most interesting and original young chefs working in Paris today" despite the crowding/noise, Time Out rec's for dishes "deconstructed down to their very essence and put back together again" (and mentions that lunch is cheaper but less innovative), Pudlo gives 1 plate, Clotilde says they have small portions bu are good

  • Le Repaire de Cartouche - Lobrano rec's "Rodolphe Paquin's generally excellent and very imaginative cooking", Lebey (3 cocottes) rec's game, BoP rec's foie gras, Pudlo gives 1 plate, Paris by Mouth praises as a "great neighborhood option" and notes nose-to-tail eating

  • Au Vieux Chêne - 7 rue du Dahomey, 01 43 71 67 69, closed Sat lunch, Sun, Lobrano recommends for "excellent contemporary French cooking", menu changes nightly, Time Out for "its desire to please"

  • L'Auberge Flora - Lebey rates as one of the top bistros of 2013, Pudlo kettle

  • Au Petit Panisse - cuisine de terroir?

  • Septime - 80 Rue de Charonne, 01 43 67 38 29, closed Mon lunch, Sat/Sun, popular with chowhounds, a bit fancy, Pudlo gives 1 plate

  • Chardenoux - rec'd by BoP for blanquette de veau, daube de boeuf, leg of lamb

  • Cartet - rec'd by BoP for boeuf à la ficelle, brandade de morue (salt cod), mushrooms, charcuteries, leg of lamb, favorite potatoes au gratin an dquenelles

  • À Sousceyrac - BoP's favorite place for cassoulet, foie gras, favorite lièvre à la royale

    • Le Jumeaux - BoP rec's crème brûlée, foie gras

    • L'Estaminet - 116 Rue Oberkampf, 01 43 57 34 29, popular Sun brunch says Clotilde

    • De Temps en Temps - 13 Rue Paul Bert, 01 43 79 63 40, Clotilde says it's very popular, run by husband & wife, ~8 tables in tiny space, this review says to get reservations 1-2 weeks in advance

    • Blue Valentine - open on Sunday (closed Mon/Tues), rec'd by Lobrano

    • Yard - 6 rue de Mont-Louis, John Talbott praises as one of the best quality-price meals

    • Servan - 32 rue Saint-Maur, closed Sun/Mon, also rec'd by John Talbott as great quality-price place

    • Thank You, My Deer - vegeterian spot that serves gluten-free soups, salads, and sandwiches, rec'd Lebovitz

    • Haute Cuisine or Less Interested:

      • Le Train Bleu - in the Gare de Lyon, rec'd by Lobrano for 19th-century splendor, Lebey for leg of lamb, Time Out ("fine renderings of French classics")

      • L'Écailler du Bistrot - fish place, rec'd by Lobrano

12e

    • ?La Biche au Bois - A la Biche au Bois 45, 01 43 43 34 38, closed Sat/Sun, rec'd by Michelin for coq au vin, Time Out for bargain prix fixe menu and great tarts, Lobrano rec's for best game in town (in season, late autumn), also terrine, foie gras, coq au vin, duck, partridge, venison, crowded but good; BoP's favorite coq au vin, also rec's crème caramel, foie gras

    • ?Auberge le Quincy - 28 avenue Ledru-Rollin, 01 46 28 46 76, closed Sat/Sun/Mon, rec'd by Michelin for grilled meats, cassoulet, tête de veau, rec'd by Lobrano for terrine, foie gras, caillette, stuffed cabbage, rabbit, chocolate mousse; Lebey rec's cassoulet, pot-au-feu; rec'd by BoP for boudin, escargots, pot-au-feu, Pudlo gives 1 plate

    • L'Auberge Aveyronnaise - Aveyron (SW France, near Langedoc) cooking, Michelin Bib Gourmand

    • Jen-Pierre Frelet - Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional; BoP rec's leg of lamb, Pudlo kettle

    • Le Duc de Richelieu - near Gare de Lyon, closed Sun, rec'd by Lobrano for "carnivores", especially beef and Beaujolais, Lebey for pig's feet

    • La Gazzetta - Lobrano rec's for "really interesting food", Time Out

    • ?Au Trou Gascon - 40 rue Taine, 01 43 44 34 26, closed Sat/Sun, rec'd by Lebey for cassoulet, confit du canard, foie gras, game, Pudlo gives 1 plate

    • L'Européen - 21 bis boulevard Diderot, 01 43 43 99 70, open daily, rec'd by Lebey (for crêpes)

    • L'Encrier - 55 rue Traversière, 01 44 68 08 16, closed Aug, Christmastime, Sun, open kitchen and lots of locals says Time Out

    • La Table de Julie - Pudlo kettle

13e

    • L'Auberge du 15 - 15 Rue de la Santé, 01 47 07 07 45, closed Sun/Mon, rec'd by Michelin for soufflé, "classic", Pudlo gives 1 plate

    • ?Au Petit Marguery - 9 boulevard de Port-Royal, 01 43 31 58 59, www.petitmarguery.com, rec'd by Michelin for soufflé, tête de veau, and other "canaille" food, Lobrano rec's for game in season (~Oct to Jan) [as does Lebey, who also rec's lièvre à la royale, veal kidneys, and sweetbreads] and "the sort of carefully prepared, high-quality traditional french dishes that inspired Julia Child's career" such as head cheese, terrine, lobster, sweetbreads; BoP mushroom dishes, lièvre à la royale, Pudlo kettle, Frommer's, more at Paris by Mouth, nice post here calls them "generous, sincere and a bit nostalgic cuisine"

    • L'Ourcine - 92 rue Broca 01 47 07 13 65, closed Sun/Mon, Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional, rec'd by Lobrano as an "outstanding contemporary bistro with relaxed, friendly service" and "appealingly rustic atmosphere", menu changes constantly, Time Out (Basque/Béarnais), Pudlo kettle

    • ?L'Avant Goût - 26 rue Bobillot, 01 43 80 24 00, closed Sat lunch, Sun/Mon, Lobrano esp rec's the pot-au-feu (as does Lebey) although the menu changes daily, Time Out calls it a "foodie destination", BoP for stuffed cabbage, leg of lamb, potatoes au gratin, pot-au-feu (favorite), Pudlo kettle, Clotilde rec's as neo bistro

    • Le Terroir - 11 boulevard Arago, 01 47 07 36 99, closed Sat/Sun, rec'd by Lebey for steak, BoP for rabbit

    • Le Comptoir Tempero - locavore

14e

    • Le Dôme - 108 boulevard de Montparnasse, 01 43 35 25 81, open daily except closed Sun/Mon in July/Aug, Lebey and Michelin both rec'd the Bouillabaisse (expensive), Lobrano says "[f]ew restaurants in Paris offer a better take on classical French seafood cooking", Pudlo gives 1 plate

    • Le Petites Sorcières - 12 rue Liancourt, closed Sun/Mon, rec'd by Lebey (3 cocottes) for blanquette de veau, œufs mayonnaise (deviled eggs), pommes frites, Pudlo gives 1 plate

    • ?Le Severo - 8 rue des Plantes, 01 45 40 40 91, closed Sat/Sun, rec'd by Michelin for grilled meats, Lobrano says "it serves some of the very best meat in Paris" along with chèvre salad, pot-au-feu, tartare, crème caramel, and chocolate mousse; rec'd by Lebey for steak, pig's feet, pommes frites, tartare, Paris by Mouth says they have the best steak frites in Paris

    • L'Assiette - 181 rue du Château, 01 43 22 64 86, www.restauarnt-lassiette.com, closed Aug, Christmastime, Mon/Tues, a bit expensive, reserve in advance, David Rathgeber (trained by Ducasse) took over this classic restaurant (mostly SW stuff) a few years ago, rec'd by Michelin for cassoulet, soufflé, crème caramel, shrimp, Michelin says "traditional cuisine with a touch of bistro chic", "classic"; Lebey (2 cocottes) rec's game, rotisserie chicken, Pudlo gives 1 plate (especially rec's desserts), Frommer's (mentions a "nostalgic crowd")...but Lebovitz gives a pretty bad 2009 review (also says it's overpriced)

    • Le Bistrot T - 17 bis rue Campagne-Première, 01 43 20 79 27, www.bistro-t.fr, closed Aug, 23 Dec - 3 Jan, the 4th week of each month, Sun/Mon, rec'd by Michelin for tête de veau, pot-au-feu, beef tail (Bib Gourmand, traditional)

    • Cantine du Troquet - Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional, Pudlo kettle

    • Kigawa - Michelin Bib Gourmand, name/chef is Japanese but cuisine is traditional French, Pudlo kettle

    • L'Ordonnance - Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional

    • La Régalade - 49 Avenue Jean Moulin, 01 45 45 68 58, closed end of July to end of Aug, first 10 days of Jan, Mon lunch, Sat/Sun, reserve in advance, Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional, Lobrano says a meal here "overturned all of my expectations of bistro cooking" although the chef is no longer there (he now runs Le Comptoir du Relais), "cuisine de terroir", Lebey rec's game, Pudlo kettle

  • ?Le Cerisaie - SW French food, small place, Lobrano rec's for SW food, closed Sat/Sun, Time Out (daily chalkboard menu), Pudlo kettle, Clotilde rec's as couple-run neo bistro

    • Le Cornichon - Lebey rates as one of the top bistros of 2013, Pudlo kettle

    • L'Opportun - 62 boulevard Edgar-Quinet, 01 43 20 26 89, closed Sun, rec'd by Lebey for steak, Time Out

    • Le Coupole - 102 boulevard due Montparnasse, 01 43 20 14 20, open daily, rec'd by Lebey (for crêpes), Time Out

    • Le Petit Josselin - 59 rue du Montparnasse, 01 43 22 91 81, closed Sun, rec'd by Lebey (for crêpes/galettes)

15e

    • La Cave de L'Os à Moëlle - 181 rue de Lourmel, 01 45 57 28 28, closed Mon, wine bar, Lebey rec's joue de bœuf, Lobrano rec's much more than the adjacent restaurant, although the table d'hôtes style (large tables with other customers) causes non French speakers to get lost

    • Axuria - 51 avenue Félix Faure, 01 45 54 13 91, www.axuria-restaurant.fr, open daily, specializes in Basque food, rec'd by Michelin for soufflé

    • Cantine du Troquet Dupleix - 53 boulevard de Grenelle 01 45 75 98 00, a bit of a Basque accent (since Christian Etchebest is from that region), Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional, Pudlo kettle

    • ?Le Casse Noix - 56 rue de la Fédération, 01 45 66 09 01, www.le-cassenoix.fr, closed 3-26 Aug, Sat/Sun, Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional, authentic, menu changes with the seasons

    • Le Troquet - 21 rue François-Bonvin, 01 45 66 89 00, closed 1 week in May/Dec, 3 weeks in Aug, Sun/Mon, Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional, nice atmosphere and cuisine, with specialties from the SW; Lebey rec's for lamb stew

    • ??Jadis - 208 rue de la Crois-Nivert, 01 45 57 73 20, closed Sat/Sun, Lobrano rec's this "outstanding bistro that offers a changing roster of contemporary French and traditional bistro dishes" such as terrine, oyster velouté, shoulder of lamb, dark chocolate soufflé, rec'd by Michelin, rec'd by Googlers "worth the schlep" says Zagat, Time Out says it's "a gently updated take on classic French cuisine" and says not to miss the cheese trolley, Lebey gives 3 cocottes, Pudlo kettle

    • ?Le Beurre Noisette - 68 rue Vasco de Gama, 01 48 56 82 49, closed Sun/Mon, Lobrano rec's for "moderate prices, friendly service" an dishes such as tête de veau, squid, pea soup, calf's liver, pork, lamb shoulder, quenelles of chocolate (ice cream & mousse), Michelin Bib Gourmand, Pudlo kettle

    • Le Père Claude - 51 avenue de la Motte-Picquet, 01 47 34 03 05, open daily, Lobrano rec's "[g]reat Gallic comfort food" such as escargots, terrine, frog's legs, entrecôte, veal, clafoutis, crème brûlée, pot-de-crème au chocolat, Lebey (no cocottes) for rotisserie chicken, BoP for coq au vin, leg of lamb

    • Le Gastroquet - 10 rue Desnouettes, 01 48 28 60 91, closed Sun in winter, Sat/Sun in summer, rec'd by Lebey and BoP for cassoulet

    • Cristal de Sel - 13 rue Mademoiselle, 01 42 50 35 29, closed Sun/Mon, rec'd by Lebey for steak

    • Le Grand Pan - 20 rue Rosenwald, 01 42 50 02 50, closed Sat/Sun, rec'd by Lebey for steak, côte de veau, Time Out rec's for "great produce simply cooked" including home-made chips and salad, Pudlo kettle

    • Le Volant - 13 rue Béatrix-Dussane, 01 45 75 27 67, closed Sun, rec'd by Lebey for steak

    • Ty Breizh - 54 boulevard Vaugirard, 01 43 20 83 72, closed Sun/Mon, rec'd by Lebey (for crêpes/galettes)

    • Uitr - 1 place Faiguière, 01 47 34 12 24, open daily, rec'd by Lebey for moules marinières

    • La Gauloise - 59 avenue de la Motte-Picquet, 01 47 34 11 64, open daily, rec'd by Lebey for tartare

    • Chez Pierre - BoP rec's for boeuf bourgignon, confit de canard, coq au vin, escargots

    • Restaurant du Marché - BoP rec's for cassoulet, mushrooms, confit de canard, foie gras, leg of lamb

    • Le Bistro - 17 rue Pérignon, 01 45 66 84 03, open daily, Time Out says "This is the kind of neighborhood bistro you had almost given up hope of finding in Paris"

    • ??L'Épicuriste - 41 Boulevard Pasteur, 01 47 34 15 50, closed 3 wks in Aug, Sun/Mon, old owners of L'Epigramme opened this in 2010, reviews here, nice blog review, rec'd by Lebey (3 cocottes), Pudlo, Michelin [former site of Bistrot d'Hubert]

16e

    • ?Hugo Desnoyer - 28 rue du Docteur-Blanche, open 8:30-8, closed Sun/Mon, www.regalez-vous.com, run by a butcher (so the focus is on meat), John Talbott says "best meal of 2013", Lobrano also praises it as "a great place to meat"...also another place in 14e (45 rue Boulard, open Tues-Fri 7-13/16-20h and Sat 7-17h)

    • Chez Marius - 82 boulevard Murat, 01 46 51 67 80, www.restaurantmarius.fr, closed Aug, Sat lunch and Sun, Lebey and Michelin both rec'd bouillabaisse

    • Le Stella - 133 avenue Victor Hugo, 01 56 90 56 00, open daily, Lobrano rec's as "traditional French brasserie with better-than-average food" also see his NYT article; Lebey rec's hachis Parmentier, John Talbott says it's (reasonably good) old-school nostalgia

    • Le Passiflore - 31 rue de Longchamp, 01 47 04 96 81, closed Sat/Mon lunch, Sun, rec'd by Lebey for mushrooms

    • A&M - 136 boulevard Murat, 01 45 27 39 60, closed Sat lunch, Sun, rec'd by Lebey for hachis Parmentier

    • Le Brandevin - 29 rue du Docteur-Blanche, 01 42 24 19 33, closed Sun, rec'd by Lebey for œufs mayonnaise (deviled eggs)

    • Le Murat - 1 boulevard Murat, 01 46 51 33 17, open daily, rec'd by Lebey for pommes frites

    • La Gare - 19 chaussée de la Muette - 01 42 15 15 31, open daily, rec'd by Lebey for rotisserie chicken

    • La Butte Chaillot - 110 bis avenue Kléber, 01 47 27 88 88, open daily, rec'd by Lebey for rotisserie chicken

    • Zébra Square - 3 place Clément-Ader, 01 44 14 91 91, open daily, rec'd by Lebey for tartare

    • La Table Lauriston - 129 rue de Lauriston, 01 47 27 00 07, www.restaurantlatablelauriston.com, closed most of Aug, 1 week in Dec, Sat lunch, Sun, Time Out rec's fresh, quality ingredients with a "feminine touch"

    • Le Petit Boileau - BoP rec's stuffed cabbage, charcuteries

    • Haute Cuisine/Less Interested

      • Le Petit Rétro - 5 rue Mesnil, closed Sat lunch, Sun, www.petitretro.fr, Lobrano rec's this Belle Époque bistro for its old school ambiance and solid dining

      • Relais d'Auteuil - 1 Michelin star (they rec'd soufflé), €100 fixed price lunch (including drink), €129-149 for dinner fixed price, Pudlo gives 1 plate

      • Antoine - 1 Michelin star (rec'd bouillabaisse) €35 weekday lunch formule (menu), €120 fixed price dinner (a la cate can be less), contemporary, Pudlo gives 1 plate

      • Le Pré Catalan - www.lenotre.fr, Lobrano calls it "one of the most romantic restaurants in the world" due to its sylvan location (in a Belle Époque pavilion in the Bois de Boulogne), 3 Michelin stars; reservations required, expensive (€95 lunch fixed price, €195-250 dinner), Lebey rec's frog legs, Pudlo gives 3 plates

      • L'Abeille - 2 Michelin stars, "classic", in Shangri-La hotel, €210 fixed price menu, Pudlo gives 2 plates

      • Hiramatsu - Japanese name but French "classic" cooking, 1 Michelin star, €48 lunch/€115 dinner fixed price, Pudlo gives 1 plate

      • Les Tablettes de Jean-Louis Nomicos - 16 Avenue Bugeaud, 01 56 28 16 16, very highly-reviewed haute cuisine place

17e

    • L'Entredgeu - 83 rue Laugier, 01 40 54 97 24, closed Sun/Mon, Time Out rec's, Lebey rec's joue de bœuf, Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional, Lobrano says it's "one of the hottest word-of-mouth addresses in Paris. You'll understand why after you've tasted his superb contemporary bistro cooking", chalkboard menu changed daily, Pudlo kettle, rec'd by Alferness ...it's a bit of a schlep but they have some great, innovative but tasty food

    • La Table des Oliviers - 38 rue Laugier, closed Sat lunch, Mon lunch, Sun, Lebey rec's Bouillabaisse

    • Le Ballon des Ternes - rec'd by Michelin for escargot

    • Frédéric Simonin - 1 Michelin star (they rec'd soufflé), Pudlo gives 2 plates

    • Caves Petrissans - 30 bis avenue Ninel, 01 42 27 52 03, closed Sat/Sun, rec'd by Michelin for tête de veau, rec'd by Lebey for œufs mayonnaise (deviled eggs)

    • Le Bouchon et l'Assiette - closed Sun/Mon, Michelin Bib Gourmand, traditional, Pudlo kettle, more reviews here

    • Jacques Faussat - La Braisière - 1 Michelin star, traditional, Pudlo gives 1 plate

    • Michel Rostang - 2 Michelin stars, "classic", Lobrano says it "has drifted off into an irrelevant senescence", Lebey rec's pâté en croûte, qurenelles, Pudlo gives 2 plates

    • ?Hier et Aujourd'hui - 145 rue Saussure, 01 42 72 35 55, resto.hieraujourdhui.free.fr, closed Sat/Sun, Lobrano says it's worth the schlep out to this place for its great, daily-changing chalkboard menu, also a great buy

    • L'Accolade - 23 rue Guillaume Tell, 01 42 67 12 67, closed Sun/Mon, rec'd by Lebey for chou farci (stuffed cabbage)

    • Goupil - 4 rue Claude-Deubssy, 01 45 74 83 25, closed Sat/Sun, rec'd by Lebey for lamb stew

    • Le Hide - 10 rue du Général Lanrezac, 01 45 74 15 81, www.lehide.fr, closed Sat lunch, Sun, Japanese-born chef but traditional French dishes (Time Out especially rec's the foie gras with pear-and-thyme compôte, tarte tatin).

    • Le Troyon - rec'd by BoP for mushrooms

    • Comme Chez Maman - Pudlo kettle

18e

    • Le Vieux Chalet - 14 Bis Rue Norvins, 01 46 06 21 44, traditional place in Montmartre, some call it a "best kept secret"

    • ?Chéri Bibi - 15 rue André-del-Sarte, 01 42 54 88 96, closed Sun (but: Sunday brunch?), Lobrano calls it "pure terroir", "rustic French country cooking" and "authentically bohemian" (although others say "hipster"), chalkboard menu changes frequently but rec's terrine, herring, sea snails, andouillette, skirt steak, boudin noir, blanquette de veau, shoulder of lamb, chocolate mousse, also rec'd by Michelin, Pudlo, more reviews here (some of which aren't that great)

    • ?La Table d'Eugène - 18 Rue Eugène Sue, 01 42 55 61 64, closed Sun/Mon, rec'd by Michelin, Wells, Lobrano, very popular (reserve ahead), lunch is a bargain, modern/innovative French, Lebey gives 3 cocottes

    • Miroir - 94 rue des Martyrs, closed Sun/Mon, rec'd by Michelin, Time Out, Pudlo kettle

    • La Café qui Parle - rec'd by Michelin

    • Chamarré Montmartre - rec'd by Michelin, Pudlo 1 plate

    • ?Le Coq Rico - 98 rue Lepic, www.lecoqrico.com, open every day, restaurant focusing on whole-bird poultry (chicken, guinea fowl, duck, and pigeon, especially the less-common bits like kidney, liver, and heart), rec'd by Michelin, Wells, Pudlo 1 plate

    • La Cave des Abbesses - good wine and charcuterie after 5 PM, officially closes at 9:30 PM but you can hang out in the back (rec'd by Mike Schuler), 43 Rue des Abbesses, 01 42 52 81 54

    • Jour de fête - Lebey rates as one of the top bistros of 2013

    • La Rallonge - Lebey rates as one of the top bistros of 2013

    • ?La Cantine de la Cigale - opened in 2013, highly praised by Paris By Mouth and others

19e

    • Que du bon (Quedubon) - 22 rue du Plateau (near Parc de Buttes Chaumont), 01 42 38 18 65, closed 24 Dec - 2 Jan, closed Sat lunch, Sun, reasonably-priced classic Bistro by former cook at Chez Ramulaud, rec'd by Wells, Michelin for warm welcome and dishes that change with the seasons, Pudlo kettle

    • La Violette - 11 avenue Coretin Carlou, 01 40 35 20 45, www.restaurant-laviiolette.com, closed most of Aug, Sat/Sun/holidays, rec'd by Michelin for contemporary food

    • Chapeau Melon - wine bar, with set menu, closed Sun dinner, Mon, rec'd by Lobrano

    • Au Bœuf Couronné - 188 avenue Jean-Jaurès, 01 42 39 44 44, open daily, rec'd by Lebey for steak, crêpes/galettes, tartare

    • A la Bière - 104 avenue Simon-Bolivar, 01 42 39 83 25, open daily, Time Out rec's prix fixe of "fine bistro favourites", "one of the few bargains left in Paris"

    • La Laumière - Pudlo kettle

20e

    • ###Le Petit Grain - pastry shop/bakery that does all-natural leavenings and organic flours, David Lebovitz's favorite croissants (at least as of 2018), looks really good! also rec'd Time Out (French edition)

    • ?Le Baratin - 3 rue Jouye-Rouve, 01 43 49 39 70, www.restaurantlebaratin.fr, reserve in advance, closed 1 week in May/Aug/Feb, Sat lunch, Sun (and Mon??), in Belleville, Raquel Carena is Argentinean but her food comes from many cultures, Michelin Bib Gourmand (they says it's "not a question", and that lunches are simple but dinners are more elaborate), traditional, Lobrano says "This is the type of place that Parisians guardedly share with friends, and it's a favorite of chefs on their night off"; menu changes frequently but he rec's the monkfish broth with galangal, sausage with asparagus, and hazelnut pudding, Time Out rec's "homely cooking with the occasional exotic twist", Zagat rec'd, Pudlo kettle, more glowing reviews at Paris by Mouth

    • ?La Boulangerie - 15 rue des Panoyaux, 01 43 58 45 45, closed Aug, 24 Dec - 2 Jan, Sat lunch, Sun/Mon, Michelin rec's for generous plates and nice wine list, BoP rec's crème brûlée, leg of lamb, hachis parmentier (shepherd's pie), tarte tatin, Pudlo kettle

    • Chatomat - Pudlo kettle

    • Le Roseval - Pudlo kettle

    • ??Le Grand Bain - rec'd Michelin, Paris by Mouth, this blog (which also liked Le Petit Grain, run by the same folks, down the street, one of whom used to be chef at Au Passage; natural wine, interesting dishes)

    • ? Paloma

    • ? Chantefable

    • ?? Babel - mix of French & North African (and other cuisines)

Outside Paris

    • Argenteuil: La Ferme d'Argenteuil (rec'd by Michelin for escargots)

    • Versailles: La Tour (rec'd by Michelin for grilled meats)

    • Le Pré Saint-Gervais: Le Pouilly-Reuilly - 68 Rue André Joineau, 01 48 45 14 59, closed Sat lunch, Mon dinner, Sunday, www.pouilly-reuilly.fr, rec'd by Pudlo (kettle), an old-school bistro

    • Saint-Ouen

      • Le Coq de la Maison Blanche, 37 Boulevard Jean Jaurès, 01 40 11 01 23, closed Sun, www.lecoqdelamaisonblanche.com, rec'd by Pudlo (who says "time has stopped" in this 1950s-era place)

      • Ma Cocotte - 106 rue de Rosiers (near Paul Bert market), rec'd by Wells

Sources for Paris Food Information

The following books, guidebooks, and blogs are good sources for information, including the tips above:

    • Lobrano = Alexander (Alec) Lobrano, author of Hungry for Paris and alexanderlobrano.com

    • MoP = Markets of Paris, by Dixon Long and Marjorie R. Williams

    • Lebovitz = David Lebovitz, author of The Sweet Life in Paris and www.davidlebovitz.com

    • Michelin = Michelin Red Guide; "Bib Gourmand" refers to places that are good value (excellent food for reasonable prices)

    • Lebey = Claude Lebey, who publishes guides to Restaurants and Bistros in the Paris area (in French); cocottes (casserole dishes) measure how much he likes a bistro (0-3)

    • Cervia = Locavore promotion bureau for the Ile de France (region around Paris), run www.saveursparisidf.com

    • Time Out = Time Out Paris guidebook

    • BoP = Bistros of Paris, book by Robert and Barbara Hamburger (note: the 2010 edition is just the electronic version of the 2001 one...a bit out of date but still a useful reference)

    • Clotilde = Clotilde Dusoulier, author of Clotilde's Edible Adventures in Paris and chocolateandzucchini.com

    • Pudlo = Giles Pudlowski, author of Pudlo Paris, a guide to restaurants that rivals Michelin; 1-3 plates are similar to Michelin stars, and kettles are a bit like Bib Gourmand

    • Talbott = John Talbott, writes Paris food blog johntalbottsparis.typepad.com

    • Wells = Patricia Wells, author of The Food Lover's Guide to Paris www.patriciawells.com

    • Paris by Mouth = great collectively written website (by many of those cited above) whose restaurant guide includes links to various reviewers (so it becomes a great meta-guide), www.parisbymouth.com

    • Le Fooding = a food website popular with hip locals, that also has a lot of English content at lefooding.com/en/ ...you can filter their Paris Restaurant list by criteria like "kid-friendly" and "open Sunday"