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This page covers the city of Genoa (Genova) and its immediate surroundings; for the rest of Genova Province and Liguria, see the Ligura Page
The Italians call the capital and largest city of Liguria Genova ("DGEH-noh-vah"). It's long been an important seaport, and was one of the four "ancient maritime republics" of Italy (along with Amalfi, Venice, and Pisa). Birthplace of Christopher Columbus, Genova is also famous for its palaces and pesto alla genovese (Genovese pesto sauce—a pungent green sauce with basil, pecorino, and garlic). Convenient night trains go to and from Naples; Genova is also a relatively cheap home base to explore the region.
Google Map with key places listed (to open on your phone, click the star at the top to send it to your Google account, then follow these instructions):
Things to Do
Things to Do
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Places to Eat
Places to Eat
Recommended Restaurants
Recommended Restaurants
?? Trattoria Rosmarino - centro storico near De Ferrari metro, somewhat newer than the other trattorie (opened in 2010), rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017, La Cucina Italiana and Gambero Rosso like their pesto genovese; Michelin Bib Gourmand rec's for high-quality Ligurian specialties
?? Trattoria dell'Acciughetta - somewhat more new/innovative place with Ligurian specialties; rec'd Gambero Rosso, Food and Wine Gazette, La Cucina Italiana, Genova Golosa, Puntarella Rossa, Petit Futé
...also their sister restaurant Quelli dell'Acciughetta is a bit more upscale but still not super-expensive
?? Le Cicale in Città - rec'd Michelin, il Golosario, dishes look beautiful, Gambero Rosso likes their pesto; not exactly haute cuisine but prices are a bit higher
? Öosteria - one of the more innovative / modern-style places with a bit more fusion, but still not too expensive/haute cuisine, rec'd Scatti di Gusto, Petit Futé
? Osteria della Foce - farm to table place rec'd Michelin, looks nice; some fancy touches but also traditional dishes
? Il Michelaccio - bistro with updated traditional recipes rec'd Michelin, il Golosario, Slow Food 2025 (won a special award for good drinks), Passione Gourmet was more lukewarm though
? Il Genovese - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014-2017, Dissapore, Fodors, La Cucina Italiana, Gambero Rosso, Scatti di Gusto, various other folks on Taste Atlas say it's the best pesto genovese...the owner even runs pesto competitions
? Ristorante Santa Teresa - family-run spot with both sea and land dishes, rec'd Michelin; mix of innovative & traditional
Gelato
Gelato
?? Cremeria Sestri - downtown at via San Vincenzo 68r (with different name, "Cremeria San Vincenzo"), at the airport, and in nearby Sestri Ponente at via Donizetti 36r, won an award in 2015, rec'd Golosario, Dissapore (they named one of the best gelaterie in Italy in 2017), Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
? Gelateria Profumo - chosen by Gambero Rosso as one of the best gelaterie in Italy (and La Cucina Italiana and Puntarella Rossa), Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020 "3 coni" (nearby Pasticceria Profumo Genoa also has lots of cute pastries)
? Gelateria Romeo Viganotti - rec'd Puntarella Rossa, Dissapore's top gelaterie in Italy in 2017
Gelatina (s.a.s. di Martina Francesconi e C) - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020
Profumo di Rosa - Via Cairoli 13 A/R gelateria rec'd by New York Times and Puntarella Rossa
U gelato du Caruggiu - rec'd Puntarella Rossa
Cremeria Buonafede - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020, and on Scatti di Gusto's 2024 "Guide to Genoa Street Food", somewhat old school, also has pastries and coffee
Casual/take-away/pastries
Casual/take-away/pastries
Pesto per Amore - popular chain of cheap pasta/pestos...?
Gran Ristoro - sandwich shop, rec'd by New York Times, cheap, closed on weekends, can deliver Scatti di Gusto's 2024 "Guide to Genoa Street Food"
Pasticceria Tagliafico - pastry shop rec'd by New York Times
Eataly Genova - branch of the popular chain of upscale pan-Italian eateries
Fish'n Street - very informal place with quality/cheap eats, associated with fish shop so they do good seafood/fried fish, but also pastas, etc rec'd Gambero Rosso in 2019
Panificio Mario - bakery/foccacia spot rec'd Dissapore and Scatti di Gusto's 2024 "Guide to Genoa Street Food"
Pestobene - to-go place specializing in pesto, great Google reviews
Antica Friggitoria Carega (more here) - near the port, friggitoria (fried food shop), rec'd Dissapore, Scatti di Gusto's 2024 "Guide to Genoa Street Food", Gambero Rosso in 2019
Antica Sciamadda - Via San Giorgio, 14r, farinata place rec'd by various folks, Gambero Rosso in 2019
Le Fornarine Bakery Caffè - focaccia shop rec'd by Dissapore, 2 locations
Traditional / "Old School" Trattorie
Traditional / "Old School" Trattorie
? Sà Pesta - rec'd Dissapore, Gambero Rosso likes their pesto, was formerly in Osterie d'Italia...looks very fresh, does farinata too; Taste Atlas lists several folks who like it, Petit Futé, Food and Travel, these folks like their Corzetti pasta
Osteria di Vico Palla - traditional food rec'd by New York Times column and several folks on Taste Atlas, Gambero Rosso in 2019; a bit more fancy & with more seafood than the other traditional spots
Trattoria della Raibetta - centro storico near San Giorgio metro, rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017, Gambero Rosso likes their pesto
Ristorante Trattoria da Maria - rec'd Katie Parla for salted anchovies with potatoes and green beans back in 2010; La Cucina Italiana rec'd their frozen-in time ambiance and traditional dishes in 2020; inexpensive
Trattoria Mangiabuono - "old school trattoria" rec'd La Cucina Italiana
Trattoria Ugo - rec'd Dissapore, Fodors, La Cucina Italiana for "home cooking"
Cavour Modo 21 (aka Cavour 21) - won pesto competitions, was on Puntarella Rossa list in 2025
Trattoria delle Grazie - seems nice, rec'd by some Rick Steves folks, Italy Segreta
Gaia Vini & Cucina - rec'd Fodor's for inexpensive, "most authentic" food including pesto; a little bit old school, Gambero Rosso in 2019
C'era Una Volta Trattoria Artigianale - seems to get mixed Google reviews but Gambero Rosso likes their pesto; decor looks funky/ecclectic considering how traditional the food is?
Haute Cuisine / "Fine Dining" Restaurants
Haute Cuisine / "Fine Dining" Restaurants
20Tre Restaurant - modern, some what haute cuisine/fusion, but a little bit less expensive than other places with that kind of food, rec'd Michelin, Gambero Rosso
Hostaria Ducale - some what upscale/haute cuisine place, rec'd Michelin
Il Marin - 1 Michelin star, near old port / Eataly
Seafood Specialists
Seafood Specialists
? Soho - somewhat more casual seafood near the acquarium, rec'd Dissapore, Michelin, looks fun!
Osteria A' Lanterna di Don Gallo - rec'd Dissapore, on the western end of the port, pretty old school
I Tre Merli Ristorante Porto Antico - views by the port, rec'd Dissapore, Gambero Rosso likes their pesto...OK Google reviews
I Cuochi - rec'd Fodors, The Guardian
Other Interesting Restaurants
Other Interesting Restaurants
Ombre Rosse (now Cantine Camilla?) - rec'd Dissapore, good with GF, looks nice?
I Canovacci - fairly traditional place but relatively new, lunch only, closed Sun, rec'd Italy Segreta, Fodors, Forbes
Sorbillo Genova - Gino Sorbillo of Naples pizza fame has opened a small restaurant here if you're feeling homesick for pizza napoletana
Locanda Spinola - a bit of a mix of tradition & innovation, also fish dishes, rec'd Let's Go Somewhere, Petit Futé, The Times (of London)
Zupp - Soup specialist restaurant? rec'd National Geographic, The Times (of London)
Soul Kitchen - vegetarian/vegan place, rec'd this guide
Il Fabbro - this guide recommends, looks interesting...
Outside the City
Outside the City
(N of centro storico): Ristorante Voltalacarta - rec'd Michelin, small, not too expensive
(just N of centro storico): ?? Le Rune - rec'd Michelin, National Geographic, regional/seasonal, not too expensive...looks nice, overlooks the funicular
(N of town): Trattoria Arvigo - Gambero Rosso in 2019, looks nice
(NE of centro storico): Osteria Villa Pietro da Pippo - Località Fontanegli, Salita alla Chiesa di Fontanegli 13r, Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2015-2017, on Scatti di Gusto's 2024 "Guide to Genoa Street Food"
Massimiliano Chiumeo (aka Gelateria Excellent) - Gambero Rosso Gelaterie d'Italia 2020...in Nervi area well East of town
(E of centro storico along the coast in Albaro district): Ristorante Santamonica - somewhat expensive seafood-centric spot rec'd Michelin
just outside town:
?? in San Desiderio frazione (NE of central Genoa): Trattoria detta del Bruxaboschi, Michelin Bib Gourmand...looks nice!
technically in Genoa but NE of main town: La Pineta, rec'd Michelin
Montoggio (NE of Genoa): Ristorante Roma, Michelin Bib Gourmand, looks nice, Dissapore also likes
Pra - supposedly the best pesto genovese comes from this small town just W of Genoa
...you can also apparently visit basil greenhouses such as Serre Sul Mare?
Ostaia da u Santu (in Genova but near Pra) - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014-2017, Dissapore, nice outdoor garden
(inland in Fado Basso near Mele): ? Baccicin dü Carü- rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2017; Leonardo Parigi says it has great pesto genovese, also rec'd Golosario, Gambero Rosso in 2025, Dissapore, Luciano Pignataro
Sori - just down the coast from Genoa...the next town down in Recco, covered on the Liguria page
Da Drin - rec'd by Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2014-2017
Bagni Sillo - beach with nice food rec'd Scatti di Gusto
not far away in San Bernardo: Il Tipico - rec'd Michelin
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